It is always sad when a climbing gym goes out of business. I don’t say that flippantly. Sometimes, for me, the news of a gym’s closure is coupled with a somber phone chat with the owner. And it is during those conversations that I usually sense the true sting—the gloom, the grief. Gym owners have told me that they knew for a while their gym’s end was near, but they refused to accept it in hopes of a financial miracle (which never came). Other owners have explained how it was their “calling” or “dream” to open a climbing gym—and, of course, “all dreams must come to an end.” I have actually had gym owners use those words.
Sad stuff.
But hearing about a gym closure always cuts a little deeper when the facility dates back to the 1990s. I don’t know why; perhaps it is personal for me. I started climbing regularly in the year 2000. The world of climbing then had been freshly fashioned by the influential hand of the ‘90s, tossed confidently into a new millennium after a decade of innovation and inertia.
There is also the fact that gyms from the 1990s were—and are—different. They feel different, and in some cases they look different. After all, the 1990s were the era of Radwall and Jrat, words that might sound as foreign and archaic to the current youthful climbing generation as beeper and cassette. And gyms from the 1990s are, literally, vessels from a bygone era. Consider that most CRM software did not exist in the 1990s—in fact, many gyms in that decade did not have computers stationed authoritatively at their front desks; members checked-in instead with laminated punch-cards, and any comprehensive customer database was rarely more than a boxy file cabinet or a spinning Rolodex. Rooms for yoga were not yet commonplace in climbing gyms. The phrase “free Wi-Fi” would have sounded like a foreign language back then too. Bouldering was only starting to become a popular discipline, free from its roots as training for rope-climbing. There was no USA Climbing or IFSC in the 1990s either.
I say all that not to highlight what the 1990s lacked, but to affectionately frame how the decade—and the climbing facilities therein—aptly laid the groundwork. We could not have the vibrant 2000s, which continues to the present day, without the wondrous and pioneering 1990s. Gyms from the ‘90s deserve a certain reverence.
Which brings me to the gyms from the 1990s that permanently closed in 2020. There were six in total, and they spanned the United States and Canada. They ranged greatly in geography and in their years of origin. The Cleveland Rock Gym closed in Ohio, which had been open since 1994. Crux in San Luis Obispo, California, had been open since 1995, as had the church-turned-climbing hub of the Cathedral Rock Gym in Lehighton, Pennsylvania. A gym in Florida (Vertical Ventures), which had been open since 1996, closed. There was also a Ground Zero Climbing in Nova Scotia that had opened in 1998, and an Inner Peaks location opened in the same year that closed in North Carolina as well. (An in-depth look at all the gym developments in 2020 can be found in CBJ’s Gyms & Trends report).
It is worth pointing out that all of those six “90s gyms” that closed in 2020 were special places, facilities that had withstood generational shifts, embraced big routesetting style changes, and fostered a lot of climbers young and old. Thousands? Tens of thousands? Perhaps.
They served us well, and if they all opened way back in the 1990s with a WELCOME sign to customers, let us conclude here by extending a signal of our own to each of them: THANK YOU.
U.S. & Canada Gyms Opened in the ’90s that Closed in 2020
The climbing gym industry in the U.S. and Canada grew by 5.1% in 2020, in terms of total gyms. 44 new gyms opened their doors in the U.S. and 9 more in Canada, during a pandemic year. Every gym deserves an award for chugging through 2020 and continuing to believe in climbing, and so do the climbers who continue to believe in them. Find more reasons for hope in our annual Gyms & Trends report for 2020.
Stuff for Insiders
Life at Home With the BFF Rock Climbers Redefining the Spot (Ari Schneider, Vogue)
“It’s hard to focus on training when you’re being fetishized—it’s no wonder [Condie] preferred to train alone. But Condie and Vest see a future for the sport that’s more inclusive, where climbing teams have strong girl squads supporting one other.” – Ari Schneider
Route Setters of the Tokyo Olympics: The silent architects in a game of choreographed skill and chance (Dave Wetmore, Gym Climber)
“Hemmingway once said that ‘the individual, the great artist when he comes, uses everything that has been discovered or known about his art up to that point…and then goes beyond what has been done or known and makes something of his own.’ In this way, the setters too, armed with decades of practice and intuition, will contribute to writing the history of climbing’s Olympic debut, and hopefully, they succeed.” – Dave Wetmore
Video: Resilience and Overcoming Setbacks – Interview With Paraclimber & Cancer Survivor Anoushé Husain (Lattice Training)
New Climbing Shoe Resoler Focuses On BIPOC and Low-Income Climbers (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“To be able to climb regularly is a privilege. Gym memberships are not cheap, gear starts to add up, and paid vacation time to go outdoors is a luxury for many. We hope Flash Friction can play a tiny part in helping the climbing community be more accessible and inclusive.” – Ceasar Saingchin
Video: 5 Things Gym Climbers Hate (Albert Ok)
Gym Manager Beta
Climbing hall culture Switzerland vs. Canada: which way is safer? (La Crux)
“If you make your way across the ocean towards North America, the European-liberal climbing hall user will quickly be overwhelmed by culture shock: climbing halls there have a straightforward, clear and extremely strict security policy that leaves little room for individual decisions, but a simple and perhaps safer one…” – La Crux
The Best Member Appreciation Events Around (Emma Walker, CWA)
“The landscape is changing, but one thing remains consistent: it’s incredibly important to make sure your members know they’re appreciated. Right now, that means getting creative.” – Emma Walker
Why Revisiting The Basics Is So Important In The COVID Era (Holly Chen, CWA)
“The real danger isn’t just in novice climbers forgetting basics, but in experienced climbers who develop a false sense of security over the years.” – Holly Chen
CWA Call: Canadian Insurance Roundtable at 10am MST on Wed Feb 17
CWA Call: February Community Call at 10:30am MST on Wed Feb 24
Routesetting + Home Training
The Kilter Board is the Future of Board Climbing (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“Kilter has been designing this board for sometime. In 2018, they decided to move forward with what would become the original layout. Though light-up boards are nothing new, it could be argued that Kilter almost perfected the training board.” – Noah Walker
Video: Homewall Routesetting – Intensity (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)
New Climbing Holds and Volumes of January 2021 (CBJ)
“The homewall trend continues into 2021 with a bunch of new climbing hold shapes and tools catered towards training and getting strong on home woodies. But multiple fresh offerings hint towards heading back to the climbing gym and comp seasons to come.”
CBJ Originals
Gyms and Trends 2020
“Not surprisingly, the trend of bouldering-focused gyms in North America that was observable at the start of the 2010s continued in 2020. Of the new climbing gym openings in the U.S. in 2020, 50 percent were facilities where bouldering was the prominent focus―the highest ratio ever.” – CBJ
2020 CBJ Gym List Awards
“Saying that climbing gyms had a challenging year in 2020 feels like an understatement…But gyms that had their grand openings in 2020 still managed to do impressive things during the pandemic year…some accomplishments will be celebrated here and now.” – CBJ
Making Life Better: Behind the Desk with Andrew Coffey (Joe Robinson)
“I have never been more grateful to be living and working in Canada. My heart goes out to all the businesses that are struggling without such support―I do hope you are able to see this through.” – Andrew Coffey
New Climbing Holds and Volumes of January 2021HWOW 43: Simple Yet Generous Shed Homewall
Climbing For Change (C4C), the nonprofit founded by professional climber Kai Lightner in 2020, has opened the application process for its first four grant programs. The grants range from outdoor climbing to competition and leadership opportunities, all with the purpose of “[increasing] BIPOC participation in rock climbing and the outdoor adventure activities.”
One of the four programs, offered in partnership with Black Diamond, is called the Gym To Crag Grants. These grants “help BIPOC individuals’ transition from indoor to outdoor climbing” by providing up to $1000 in funds for program fees and/or travel costs. According to the C4C website, Black Diamond will also help with equipment needs for activities funded by the company.
Other awards include the Competition Climbing Grant, which assists BIPOC individuals with expenses related to “[attending] high level climbing competitions in the United States or abroad,” as well as the more general Adventure Outside Grants for “outdoor recreation activities.” Like the Gym To Crag program, both grants may award recipients up to $1000 for participation fees and/or travel costs.
The final program, the C4C Leadership Grants, is an open grant which “[encourages] BIPOC individuals to become leaders in rock climbing or the outdoor recreation industry.” Examples of careers noted in the program description include routesetting and guiding, and grants are intended to help applicants “elevate [their] status in these spaces.”
“We are incredibly excited to launch these programs and help increase diversity in the next generation of outdoor sports enthusiasts!” Lightner said about opening the organization’s first round of grants. According to Lightner, more grants are due to come out in the next three to four weeks as well. These next grants will help BIPOC individuals obtain AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) certification by covering the costs of SPI courses and exams at the New River Gorge, Red Rocks, and in Washington state.
Applicants may apply for the first four grants at the application portal here, which can also be accessed via the C4C website. Once at the portal, click “Sign-Up” on mobile devices or “Register” on desktops to create an account and start an application.
C4C has raised over $100,000 since launching its inaugural fundraising campaign. To make a donation and help reach the goal of $200,000 please click here.
Details recently emerged regarding a legal settlement between a Northvale, New Jersey, climbing facility, High Exposure, and a customer who was injured there more than four years ago.
According to an article by Charles Toutant on Law.com, the customer—a New York woman—was ascending a 30-foot-tall “climbing obstacle” at the gym known as the “Leap of Faith” on November 7, 2016. The summit of this obstacle entailed a transition onto a walkable plank and, finally, a jump from the high plank to a “suspended punching bag.” (Customers always wore a harness throughout the sequence and eventually descended to the floor via auto belay.) According to the woman’s lawyer and Toutant’s article, her auto belay “detached from [the] safety harness” as she was completing the sequence at the punching bag that particular November day, resulting in a ground fall. The woman suffered multiple injuries.
Following the incident, the woman sued the facility, as well as a separate Massachusetts facility that designed the climbable obstacle. The eventual settlement, made public recently, awarded her $1 million from High Exposure and $400,000 from the designer.
Announcements of the settlement did not indicate which brand of auto belay was involved in the accident. And no specification was made as to whether her auto belay “detachment” was due to mechanical failure or user error. Also of note is that it does seem that she signed a waiver at the facility prior to climbing; however, as CBJ’s legal analyst Jason Pill explored in a previous installment of Ask A Lawyer, facility liability waivers are not always lawsuit-proof and there are no guarantees that a gym’s waiver will hold up in all instances, depending on the circumstances surrounding the waiver and the accident.
At the end of last year’s Gyms and Trends report, when talking about the handful of North American climbing gyms that had closed permanently in 2019, we—at CBJ—noted that the reasons for closures were largely property-related issues, including rising rent prices and lease disagreements. In other words, some gyms had fallen victim to unfortunate but rather standard and predictable factors when it came to operations.
CBJ published that Gyms and Trends article in February, 2020. Approximately one month later, operations in the climbing industry in North America—and throughout the world— began to change drastically. A new factor emerged that became widespread and impactful at a scale never seen before in the modern gym climbing era. Indeed, the COVID-19 pandemic hit with full force, and its major effects are still challenging the climbing industry nearly one year later.
That first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic stateside in March 2020 proved to be as destructive as it was unpredictable. Gym attendance everywhere plummeted as people became increasingly cognizant (and in some cases increasingly fearful) of the Coronavirus’ transmissibility. Related to the gym industry, the Tokyo Olympics—where climbing was set to make its highly-publicized debut—were postponed. The annual Climbing Wall Association (CWA) Summit was cancelled and CWA, as the industry’s trade association, shifted to providing ongoing pandemic-related resources and support, including a roadmap for reopening.
To that point, the pandemic unified the industry, in a way, as gyms showed transparency in exchanging information on CWA community calls and surveys, sharing protocols and data, offering lessons learned and further problem solving together. In the United States, practically every climbing gym in every state was deemed a “non-essential business” and forced to temporarily close at some point in the spring or summer of 2020 as the Coronavirus continued to spread around the country. Gyms eventually reopened with significant mitigation measures (such as reservation time-slots, required face-masks, lowered capacities, and enforced social distancing…all of which contributed to a “new normal” for the climbing gym experience).
Such collectivism by gyms was hardly a long-term silver lining, however; many gyms were forced to temporarily close again in the fall of 2020 as another wave of the COVID-19 pandemic surged; some of those gyms even chose to remain open, going against mandatory municipal orders and risking serious legal penalties—all in an attempt to stay financially afloat.
The temporary closure of so many gyms amid stay-at-home orders did result in a boom for the homewall tier of the climbing industry. As early as April, CBJ announced that the “Era of Home Climbing Walls” had arrived. Indeed, 67 percent of homewall owners responding to an October survey answered that they built their homewall in response to the pandemic. And since it is unlikely that many new homewallers will choose to quickly disassemble their walls in a post-pandemic world, this widespread interest in homewalls―as well as the uptick in at-home fitness offerings provided by gyms―will likely remain a key part of the industry going forward.
All that being said, when considering the industry trends from the past year, there are a few major questions that emerge: First, just how bad was the pandemic for climbing gyms, on the whole? Moreover, how long will the effects of the pandemic continue to challenge the industry? Should climbing professionals be worried? And, more specifically, how might the pandemic alter gym plans and projects originally slated for 2021? A closer look at the data, below, will best address those important questions.
(Be sure to check out CBJ’s 2020 Gym List Awards in tandem with this report. The awards include Top Developer of the Year, as well as the Largest and Tallest Gyms of the Year. The report also lists every new gym to open in the United States and Canada in 2020.)
44: new climbing gym openings in the U.S. in 2020
It might be somewhat surprising to hear that there were actually more new gyms that opened in the United States in 2020—the “pandemic year”—than in 2019. Specifically, 44 new gyms opened in the U.S. in 2020. That is far less than the more than 60 gyms that were initially expected to open throughout the year—and significantly less than the 50 plus new gyms that opened in 2017 and 2018.
Still, 44 new gyms in 2020 should be considered a steady—possibly even robust—continuation of the annual upward trend in gym construction that has been blossoming especially since the start of the 2010s. However, the data that majorly offset that number of new gym openings was the great number of gyms (18, to be exact) that permanently closed in 2020―the most ever in the United States in a calendar year.
Most of the gyms that permanently closed in 2020 ceased operations due to the economic wallop of the pandemic. The adjusted growth rate for the industry—calculating both openings and closures—was 5.1 percent. That is the lowest growth rate since 2010, and it is a stark contrast to initial predictions of 2020 being a veritable boom year for climbing gyms. Even at CBJ, prior to the onset of the pandemic, we wrongly anticipated “the climbing gym industry in North America to have its best year ever in 2020.”
“The pandemic has devastated new gym development projects,” stated Mark Melvin, founder and owner of Touchstone Climbing, the largest gym chain in California. “Because gyms take so long to develop, I would bet that those opening or worked on were in the works already.”
Indeed, the growth rate of commercial gyms in the U.S. was low in 2020, but there is hope for a rebound. At the present time, there are 61 new gyms that are slated to open in the U.S. in 2021 or later, which points to continued robust growth. The duration of the pandemic is, of course, a big unknown. And, it should be underscored that 24 percent of gyms responding to the question in the CWA’s December survey indicated they are in danger of going out of business within the next 12 months. But the plethora of planned facilities indicates an enduring optimism among developers at the outset of 2021.
“2020 was a difficult year and presented everyone with more unforeseen challenges than ever before at an unprecedented level of complexity. However, what didn’t change is the passion members have for climbing and our community,” said Robert Cohen, CEO of the El Cap family of gyms (Earth Treks, Planet Granite and Movement Climbing + Fitness). “I believe that as vaccines become more available and the overall climate becomes safer for people, more will return to the gym to see and climb with their friends again.”
39: percentage of new U.S. climbing gyms in 2020 that were expansion gyms
In 2020, only one gym developer opened multiple new facilities, and it was not a United States entity (The Hive in Canada opened two new gyms). That is quite different from 2019, when the big story was multiple-facility expansion by large-scale developers and parent companies. For instance, El Cap acquired the Movement gym chain in 2019 to bring its total number of facilities to 16; elsewhere, Central Rock added five gyms, the most of any developer that year. In total, 53 percent of new gym openings in the U.S. in 2019 were expansion gyms part of gym chains. In 2020, that figure dropped to 39 percent.
However, of note is that only three of the 18 gyms that permanently closed in the U.S. in 2020 were part of multiple-facility chains. Thus far into the pandemic, it has largely been single-facility climbing entities in America that are closing their doors at a higher frequency.
“I would think that being a multi-gym chain is a double-edged sword,” explains Casey Newman, Sales Manager of Eldorado Climbing. “It could make staying afloat easier because you can pool and spread resources and keep a wider net for revenue, but also be a drag because you have the higher base overhead of more than one facility, with reduced income for the time being.”
In addition to the opening of new gyms and permanent closures of existing facilities, last year saw at least one noteworthy acquisition of existing gyms as well—albeit not as large as El Cap’s ventures from 2019. In the fall of 2020, Edgeworks Climbing + Fitness acquired the two Stone Gardens locations in Washington after longtime Stone Gardens owner Keith Magnuson decided to sell his gym properties.
“At the start of the COVID pandemic, we had an intent of coming out of the pandemic stronger than we entered. We have always looked to reinvest our efforts, growing and creating opportunities for our community and staff… The opportunity to acquire Stone Gardens definitely fits this category of growth…” said Tod Bloxham, owner of Edgeworks. Bloxham was also among the key staff to depart from the popular climbing gym CRM software company Rock Gym Pro (RGP) last summer. The departures—unrelated to the pandemic—of founder Andy Laakmann, Ted Knudsen (Chief Technical Officer) and Bloxham (CEO) were part of an ongoing transition since RGP was sold to Togetherwork in 2018.
Acquisitions were not limited to climbing gyms in 2020 either. For example, in climbing media, the publisher of Climbing magazine—Pocket Outdoor Media—acquired Big Stone Publishing, and with it the popular titles of Rock & Ice and Gym Climber. And in the first week of January this year, Mountain Project, “the largest resource of user-contributed climbing-route information in the world,” was acquired by OnX.
As the pandemic continued, unique formations took place around the need for capital support as well. While 65% of respondents to the CWA’s August survey of climbing gyms answered that they received emergency funding from the SBA’s Paycheck Protection Program, this relief and other forms of emergency funding and government assistance were short lived. Fortunately, members of many gyms stepped up, continuing their memberships throughout the closures and capacity restrictions. In the CWA’s December survey, over 75 percent of responding gyms have retained at least 50 percent of their total membership, enabling 64 percent of gyms to keep at least 80 percent of their normal full-time staff by year’s end. But rent deferral has been an issue, and 63 percent of responding gyms have only been able to reduce their fixed cost expenses by less than 20 percent.
In the summer, Crux Collective was founded with the goal of “empowering local climbing gym owners to sustain and prosper in their communities.” As CBJ reported in July, this collective—a project by the same executive team that opened Crux Climbing gyms throughout Texas—offers “capital, operational support, and marketing and branding insights” to climbing gyms. At the collective’s launch, it was announced that $2.9 million would be invested into the planned Vital Climbing Gym in Brooklyn, New York, and Long Beach Rising in Long Beach, California, that opened in 2019.
Another interesting development at the turn of the calendar year came from Walltopia, which committed $10 million “to support new climbing business ideas” amidst the hardships of this pandemic period. The Walltopia Elevation Initiative includes equity participation and other forms of support for projects deemed to “improve the climbing industry.”
“We want to share our strength with the industry’s forward thinkers,” said Ivaylo Penchev, CEO of Walltopia. “…We won’t tell them what to do. They’ll manage their business. We will support them.”
50: percentage of new U.S. climbing gyms in 2020 that were bouldering gyms
Not surprisingly, the trend of bouldering-focused gyms in North America that was observable at the start of the 2010s continued in 2020. Of the new climbing gym openings in the U.S. in 2020, 50 percent were facilities where bouldering was the prominent focus―the highest ratio ever. This seems like a logical trend, given the economic hardship of the year; larger, more expensive gyms are often mixed (meaning they offer both bouldering and rope climbing), which can pose more challenges for opening during difficult economic times.
“I’m not sure the pandemic had an effect here. But if anything, I’d think it may have turned some people from a full gym to a bouldering gym,” continued Casey Newman.
Still, the ratio of mixed gyms to bouldering-focused gyms planned for 2021 or later suggests that―even with the popularity of bouldering gyms over the past decade―mixed gyms are still in demand and will continue to be a fixture of the industry…even if the pandemic has delayed grand opening timelines. Of the 61 new climbing gyms that are planned to open in the U.S. in 2021 or later, 70 percent are mixed facilities (43). If all these facilities open, this would be the second highest percentage of new mixed gyms since 2011. (It is also worth noting that bouldering gyms can be developed quicker than mixed gyms because they generally require less capital; as a result, new bouldering gyms are often announced with less lead time. So, it is possible that more new bouldering gyms will appear in 2021 than are on the industry radar at the present time.)
“A large capacity facility that is much more than a climbing gym (all amenities included) reaches a broader demographic and allows for a larger number of members to be in the building at one time,” said Mike McCartan, Accounts Manager of Vertical Solutions. “This reduction in ‘crowding’ also played out extremely well during the pandemic and directly kept many gyms afloat during the harder times of certain state’s restrictions.
86: percentage of new 2020 gym openings in the U.S. in core metropolitan areas
Regionally, the states that opened the most gyms in 2020 were California, Florida, North Carolina, Pennsylvania and South Dakota, which each opened three new facilities. However, multiple gyms permanently closed in California, North Carolina and Pennsylvania as well as one in Florida, while zero permanently closed in South Dakota, meaning this 5th least populous state in the U.S. saw the most net gym growth in 2020.
Other states that saw multiple permanent closures in 2020 were Tennessee and Texas as well as one in Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Ohio, South Carolina and Wisconsin, indicating that permanent closure trends were not limited to any single geographic region. On the flip side, nearly all of these states saw at least one new gym opening in 2020 or have one planned to open in 2021 or later, so gym development there is still happening.
“Despite COVID-19, gyms projects were started and had to be completed. The gyms had committed, and once you commit you either stick it and hold on or just bail,” said Ernest Coletta, owner of Strati Climbing.
Apart from a handful of gyms, the vast majority of new gyms that opened in 2020 were located in densely populated metro areas. This trend of new gym developers opting to open mainly in metro areas is not a new revelation, nor is it surprising or unique to 2020. Indeed, when cross-referencing CBJ gym data with recent data from the USDA Economic Research Service, 86% of all gyms in the U.S. are located within zip codes considered to be core metropolitan areas.
But the noteworthy aspect is the inverse of this metro profusion: just one gym opening in 2020 took place in a zip code that would be considered a “small town” (Sunrise Bouldering in Geneseo, New York), whereas previous years that saw the most gym openings to date (2017 and 2018) had multiple gym openings in “small town” zip codes. Perhaps, when confidence is high, gym developers are more keen to move into smaller—and potentially more rural—corners of the market. With so many new gyms planned for 2021 or later, this trend may very well continue.
“We expect to see continued expansion into regional areas well outside major metropolitan reach, while still seeing growth in metro areas that are realizing that the distance and proximity to other gyms does not have to be far due to recent population and popularity growth,” said Mike McCartan.
3: permanent climbing gym closures in Canada in 2020
In terms of the adjusted growth rate, Canada fared surprisingly identical to the U.S. in 2020. There were nine new climbing gyms that opened in Canada in 2020―only two less than in 2019 and one more than in 2018. The new gyms were almost evenly split between bouldering-focused facilities and mixed facilities (five bouldering and four mixed). Remarkably, only three Canadian gyms permanently closed their doors in 2020, just one more gym than in the two prior years. Together, the adjusted growth rate of commercial climbing gyms in Canada was 5.1 percent in 2020―the exact same as in the United States.
The new Canadian gyms spanned the country, with two located in Ontario (Aspire, Basecamp), two in Nova Scotia (East Peak, Seven Bays), three in Quebec (Le Crux, Cafe Bloc, Hook South Shore Bouldering), and two Hive facilities across Manitoba and British Columbia. In fact, Quebec tied for the most net gym growth in 2020 of any province or state (3), with zero gym closures last year. Quebec is home to wall builders and designers OnSite and Delire Climbing Walls, which mentioned to CBJ the Canadian government’s handling of the pandemic.
“We have the impression that the situation in the United States was more like a roller coster, compared to Canada,” said Patricia Morin, Marketing Coordinator of Delire. “The Canadian government has put a lot of money into institutions and businesses to support them during the crisis.”
Big Rock Bouldering in Alberta as well as Adventure Climbing Gym and Ground Zero Climbing in Nova Scotia were the sole gyms in Canada to cease operations according to our research. In the case of Ground Zero, permanent closure came on the heels of temporary closure in March 2020 due to the pandemic. “The landlord for the gym has chosen not to participate in the provincial rent-deferral program,” stated a message on Ground Zero’s Facebook page in April. Another message announcing permanent closure “due to financial challenges” followed three months later. The pandemic’s impact on leasing relationships would prove to be a trend in U.S. gym closings as well.
There are currently no gyms definitively planned to open in Canada in 2021 on our radar. But time will tell whether plans for other gyms will appear as the year progresses. Previous years’ statistics would indicate that multiple Canadian gyms will likely appear in 2021, as Canada has seen a net gain of at least two gyms every year since 2010.
20,000: meals distributed by Memphis Rox in 2020
Climbing has long necessitated and fostered a certain sense of community; from stewardship and safety precautions that must be collectively taken outdoors to self-judged competitions and group classes unique to the indoors, there has often been a pervasive sense that “we’re all in this together.” Such communal inclinations evolved in a myriad of directions in 2020.
First, in addition to the widespread mitigation efforts mentioned above, a number of climbing gyms offered additional support to their gym and neighboring communities. Memphis Rox, as a prime example, transformed its climbing space into an assembly line for care packages, lunches and hand sanitizer. According to an Instagram post in January, the pay-as-you-can nonprofit gym distributed last year 20,000 meals at no cost to those in need, 3,200 boxes of fresh produce, 700 masks, 300 hygiene kits as well as hand sanitizer to neighbors and Native American tribes.
“Climbing is about community, and you have to get your community engaged during times of struggle,” Jon Hawk, Director of Operations at Memphis Rox, told CBJ over the summer. “The reason we are able to give out so many hygiene packs is because our climbing community stepped up and chipped in.”
Climbing gyms have had to pivot their business models to support their gym communities as well, especially gym staff. Many gyms like Bridges Rock Gym provided outdoor and virtual programming during the closures. Since outdoor activities are less restricted than indoor activities in California, Bridges even established outdoor climbing on its property in December, following the latest wave of closures.
Also in California, Sender One launched a distance learning camp. As some schools reopened in the fall with remote classes, parents sought places for their children to study while they were at work. COOL Camp offered a solution within the state’s tiered reopening system, and safety measures like social distancing and partitions between desks kept the environment as safe as possible. The camp provided jobs for staff, and scholarships were available to families financially impacted by this period.
“…Sender One is not alone when developing these types of offerings and programs,” said Crystal Tan, Sender One’s Brand Marketing Manager. “I reached out [to CBJ] wanting to share about our program to provide the possibility of what our climbing gyms can offer back to our communities.”
99: indoor climbing facilities in the CICC or WICC coalitions
As mentioned above, for many climbing gyms emergency support from the federal government was short lived, and climbing centers in states like California found themselves caught between a lack of continued financial aid and more restrictive reopening frameworks. While facilities were reopening at various capacities in other states, dozens of climbing centers in hard hit California counties remained closed throughout 2020. Confident their strict safety protocols, well-ventilated buildings and the relatively-anaerobic act of climbing makes for a much safer environment than acknowledged, 29 climbing center owners spanning 76 facilities banded together to lobby for having them moved into less restrictive bounds.
“Our shutdown affects tens of thousands of people in California, and we’re about to put more people back into the unemployment system,” said Kristin Horowitz in a Cal Matters article. Horowitz, co-founder of The Pad Climbing, started the California Indoor Climbing Coalition (CICC) alongside Alice Kao, CEO and co-founder of Sender One. The coalition won a victory in October when the state specifically positioned climbing centers alongside fitness centers, but the fight isn’t over. “We still have a long way to go―we’re looking at 25% capacity in [the most restrictive tier], not closure,” said Horowitz. More changes to the tiered reopening system on December 3 further complicated that objective. Regions were locked down where available ICU beds dropped below 15 percent of capacity. At 2020’s end, almost every county in California was on lock down and gyms were closed for indoor climbing.
Further north, the Washington Indoor Climbing Coalition (WICC) formed to give climbing centers in that state a chance. 23 facilities across the state are listed as members on the coalition’s proposal letter. Like the CICC, the WICC platform is established on data-driven research, testimonials from medical professionals, and the shared belief that―with proper mitigation protocols―climbing centers are uniquely positioned to “open strong” and require their own set of guidelines for doing so. Newly available outbreak data in Colorado, New York, Michigan, Oregon, Washington and Washington D.C. supports this belief. According to data on the WICC website, in over 100 indoor climbing facilities across these states, zero outbreaks of COVID-19 have been recorded.
Climbing gyms in Washington will now have a chance to continue that legacy. At the start of January, the state of Washington released new guidelines as part of its Roadmap to Recovery which categorized climbing centers as “low risk sports.” While required to operate at no more than 1 customer per room or per 500 square feet, the victory still allowed gyms previously closed during the latest wave of COVID-19 to reopen.
60: percentage of U.S. climbing gyms located in zip codes where people of color represent 25% of the population or more
In many ways, 2020 felt like a perfect storm of crises in America, from the COVID-19 pandemic to the fires out West, and national reckoning with police brutality and systemic racism. To be sure, the spotlight over the summer on the ongoing protests, the deep struggles they speak to, and the tough conversations that followed are not new. But the veritable wave of outpourings of support on social media by climbing gyms, brands, athletes and others in the climbing community had unique fervor to it.
Gyms cancelled climbing sessions and urged climbers to attend demonstrations instead; multiple brands pointed out broken systems; and countless gyms and athletes encouraged donations to organizers working in this space for decades like the NAACP as well as Black Lives Matter.
“It’s important to recognize―even though this is a particular moment―it’s one in a long, long series of moments where we’ve gone through similar situations in our country,” said Garnet Moore, CWA Interim Executive Director in a community call. “It’s something that hopefully can be carried forward and we can engender some change, at least in our small corner of the world.”
One way climbing gyms have been trying to change their small corners of the world is by improving equitable access to their services and the sport of climbing. Indeed, in cross-referencing CBJ gym data with data from the American Community Survey, the room for growth is clear. 60 percent of U.S. climbing gyms are located in zip codes where people of color represent at least 25 percent of the population. And on average, people of color represent 36 percent of the population in U.S. zip codes with a climbing gym. By contrast, just 18 percent of respondents to an American Alpine Club survey of climbers cited in its 2019 State of Climbing Report identified as persons of color.
Following the social unrest over the summer, numerous gyms and brands committed to further equity, diversity and inclusion initiatives within their own organizations. Stone Age in New Mexico, for instance―which hosted its annual Yank-N-Yard competition this year with extra safety precautions―established ongoing BIPOC and LGBTQ+ climbers nights to promote diversity and inclusion at its facilities. Further north, the Minnesota Climbing Coop began a book club to facilitate dialogues around these issues. And The North Face hosted a series of conversations on inclusion, equity and access for its virtual Global Climbing Day in August.
Only days earlier, American athlete Kai Lightner launched the nonprofit Climbing for Change. The organization’s mission includes “connecting underserved communities with individuals and organizations that seek to increase minority participation in rock climbing and the outdoor adventure industry.” Key to that mission is equity, and numerous grants and funding opportunities for BIPOC individuals and DEI initiatives within the industry are listed on the Climbing for Change website, including “facilitating gym/organization partnerships with industry businesses to offer affordable BIPOC membership programs.”
“After having consistent conversations with companies and aspiring allies about diversifying our industry, the consensus was clear; many wanted to create long term change, but few knew how. Thus, Climbing for Change was born, an organization dedicated to gathering funds and partnering with businesses to provide funding and opportunities for DEI initiatives across our industry,” Lightner said on Instagram.
1,060: signatures of the BKB Collective’s petition
Perhaps most emblematic of a large shift in company culture since last summer has been occurring at Brooklyn Boulders. According to an article on Gym Climber, Brooklyn Boulders received pushback from its Instagram posts around the summer protests. Most notably, a group of company employees organized into a collective and sent a letter to leadership demanding significant changes. Called the BKB Collective, the collective’s petition had received 1,060 signatures at the time of this writing, and several allies with petitions directed at other gyms like Triangle Rock Club and Hoosier Heights are listed on its website.
Since the letter, Brooklyn Boulders founders Jeremy Balboni and Lance Pinn have both stepped down from their positions as CEO and President, respectively. The company set-up a public DEI Work + Accountability Dashboard which includes the archived Instagram posts, its response to the collective’s demands, and a DEI Dashboard listing completed projects and those still in progress. One of those projects is increasing staff participation in decision making during the transition through the creation of three staff-elected steering committees. However, a round of staff layoffs perceived as retaliation for the collective’s organizing incited further pushback. According to an Outside article, the BKB Collective has since filed a complaint with the National Labor Relations Board and “employee relations remained rocky.”
“My priority is bringing back our staff in New York,” Martin Adler, Interim CEO of Brooklyn Boulders, told Gym Climber. “We’re reaching out to the staff that we laid off and letting them know that their jobs are available for rehiring. Unfortunately, in New York, our capacity is 33 percent of pre-COVID levels. So we’re not going to be able to rehire all of the people that we had working previously, when we were at 100 percent capacity.”
In addition to bringing back staff, the company is also working on a Climbing For All initiative, which includes the goal of “providing a million dollars-worth of access” funds in 2021. “We do understand that in our local communities where we operate, the fact that we run premium gyms at a premium price point, does price out some of the local folks that we want to be part of our community,” said Adler. “Over time, you’ll see more progress in more announcements about additional components of Climbing For All that go beyond the democratization of access.”
2021 Predictions
Even with the challenges of 2020 and the low U.S. growth rate of 5.1 percent—the industry’s lowest since 2010—there are multiple reasons why the outlook for the industry remains positive.
First, 5.1 percent is still a robust growth rate when compared to adjacent industries like the health club industry. According to a November report from the International Health, Racquet & Sportsclub Association, “data from major payment processing firms indicate that 15% of gyms, health clubs, and studios have closed permanently through Q3 2020.” In the U.S. climbing gym industry, only 3.5 percent of climbing gyms open before 2020 have since permanently closed their doors.
Second, the growth rate of the climbing gym industry in 2020 was a significantly robust one when compared to the economy as a whole. For the third quarter of 2020, the growth rate of GDP in the U.S. contracted by 2.8 percent, when compared to the same quarter the previous year. Arguably, any positive growth rate in 2020 should be considered a positive sign for an industry during this period.
Finally, the most encouraging indicator for the climbing gym industry—and the climbing industry, at large—may be the vast number of new climbing gyms that are planned to open in the U.S. in 2021 or later. On the one hand, 10 percent of gyms responding to the question in the CWA’s December survey indicated they are currently considering exiting their business, and 56 percent of respondents expect it will take one to two years for their revenue and membership to recover; on the other hand, 61 new gyms are planned to open in 2021 or later, indicating that gym developers and brands remain optimistic despite the current economic hardships, as previously mentioned.
“We’re optimists that when the world sees the light at the end of the pandemic tunnel, people will be excited to get back to their favorite activity in the climbing gym and get back into climbing shape, but we can only hope this will happen soon,” said Ani Manova, Marketing Director of Walltopia. “We already miss a ton the regular training sessions and the social aspect of climbing, and we believe everyone in the community feels the same and is eager to be able to practice it again.”
Practically every major region in the U.S. has multiple new climbing gym openings planned for 2021 or later. Atop the list is California, where 12 new climbing centers are planned to open. Whether it will be possible to continue construction phases and open all of those California gyms within the state’s tiered reopening system in 2021 remains to be seen.
Several new gyms are planned to open in the Midwest and the Northeast too, with five gyms planned for both New York and Pennsylvania, two in New Jersey and nine across Illinois, Indiana and Michigan. Five gyms are also slated to open in Texas, four in Arizona, three in Colorado, and six across the Pacific Northwest (four in Washington and two in Oregon).
“With the lead time for these projects, I think you’re going to get a natural variance which makes it hard to put a projected growth rate on the industry, but I think it will continue to grow,” Mike Palmer, owner of Cascade Specialty, told CBJ.
But as in 2020, all business plans hinge on the pandemic crisis—and, as of very recently, vaccination efforts. Only time will tell what gyms and trends of 2021 will be talked about this time next year.
Behind the Data
CBJ is dedicated to researching and accurately reporting on climbing gym activity in the United States and Canada. We strive to always be data-driven, and more research was devoted to this year’s report than ever before. The industry growth rate and accompanying data were compiled through several different source avenues and is completely original and proprietary to CBJ. Any climbing gym is welcome—and encouraged—to update or add their information to CBJ’s comprehensive gym map and dataset here. For more information about the methodology behind the data, please visit the methodology section of Gyms & Trends 2019.
Thank you to everyone who has supported and furthered this research, including: the Climbing Wall Association, USA Climbing, Gym Climber and Vertical Life; the researchers who devoted many hours to collecting and fact-checking the gym data (Leif Coopman, Chris Ryan, Austin Lokey, Madeleine Eichorn); and special thanks to Theresa Phamduy for providing in-depth analysis and brand-new presentation of the data. And thanks to the team who has long supported CBJ’s research, in particular CBJ publisher Scott Rennak, CBJ founders Mike Helt and Marlowe Kulley, map data guru Jon Lachelt, as well as John Burgman, Joe Robinson and Jamie Strong.
Owner Alex Holcomb decided on some simple angles to fill the big shed he was working with. The end result in Zionville, NC, is just right. Check out past HWOW hereWhen did you build your wall?
I moved last June and tore down my old wall with the intention to rebuild a new one right away. It didn’t happen until this May when everything shut down.
How long did it take you to build?
Nearly an entire month as I was working almost all by myself with a little help from my wife.
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build?
Well I had some wood I was able to reuse, but just in wood and fasteners it was probably around 1000 dollars.
Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
Simplicity of build. Originally I had drawn up a much more complex design with a great many angle changes mid wall. But ultimately it was a big enough project just to do simple angles, and on a project wall I feel like I probably don’t need anything crazier.
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Because I was building the wall to attach into the structure of the shed that was already in place, the hardest part was getting the angles exactly right. Wood is never perfectly straight and level, and that included the wooden roof supports that I was attaching to. So each wall support had to be measured and angled separately to make an even face. It was quite time consuming.
What would you do differently?
I think I maybe might have preferred to do the entire wall on the 40 degree angle of my center piece. But I’m still not sure.
What is your favorite aspect?
We have a great local gym, but their hours are not always conducive to my changing schedule. So I love being able to get my workout in whenever I can.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Just go for it. You learn everything you need to know as you go. And while it’s obviously easier and less time consuming if you have the right tools, a circular saw and a drill are all you really need.
Do you have any connection to climbing brands or gyms?
I know a handful of shaper for e-Grips and So iLL. So I asked some advice on design and for good holds to buy.
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. Winners get a $100 giftcard to Atomik to pick out some goodies for their homewall. Thanks Kenny!
Saying that climbing gyms had a challenging year in 2020 feels like an understatement. It certainly does not tell the full story of the pandemic’s wrath on the industry; it fails to encapsulate the difficulties of temporary closures (and reopenings, and then reclosures), the hardship of gyms’ adoption of widespread mitigation measures, and the general anxiety that gym customers and staff struggled with throughout the year. The toils were prolonged, they were complicated, and they were often personal, as gyms are often inseparable from the climbing communities they foster. The 5.1 percent growth rate for U.S. gyms in 2020 reflected the hardships, as explained in our 2020 Gyms and Trends report.
So, for starters, let’s kick off the 2020 Gym List Awards by saying that every gym deserves sincere praise and applause for…well, for just chugging through 2020 and continuing to believe in climbing. Let’s also state the good news: The future of the industry still looks promising (44 new gyms opened in 2020, 9 more than in 2019, and 61 more gyms are planned to open in 2021). And most importantly for this year’s installment of CBJ Gym List Awards, gyms that had their grand openings in 2020 still managed to do impressive things during the pandemic year…some accomplishments will be celebrated here and now.
For further exploration of this data, be sure to check out the filters on the CBJ Gym Map to sort gym data in various ways. And without further ado, the 2020 CBJ Gym List Awards are as follows:
Scroll or click to see the following awardees:Denver Bouldering Club – G1 – The Front – The Hive – Vertical View
The newest addition to the Front Climbing Club family of gyms didn’t come onto the scene with the bang that was planned. Originally slated to host the 2020 Sport and Speed Open National Championships on March 13-14, the grand opening was delayed and the competition postponed (and eventually cancelled) due to the pandemic. Over the summer, South Main held its modified grand opening in a pandemic age instead, but the facility is no less impressive. Clocking in at 26,685 square feet of climbing surface—the most of any new gym in 2020—South Main includes an IFSC-regulation speed wall, roped walls up to 62 feet high, bouldering, a slew of fitness offerings, and additional projects in the works. “The Front Climbing Club has a rich heritage that I am proud to shoulder,” owner and CEO Dustin Buckthal said of the project. South Main is certainly continuing that legacy with its latest lifestyle climbing gym.
As in 2019, the difference between the largest and second largest new climbing gyms of 2020 seemed like another photo finish, but new information from the gym operators and wall manufacturers widened the gap to 2,000 square feet of climbing surface. And the gym that earned second-place honors—G1, with 24,684 square feet of climbing—has a lot to commend. The lead and top rope walls edge out at 58 feet tall, and G1 also boasts an IFSC speed climbing wall. They have a conference room, a Kilter Board, a Tension Board, and options for childcare. During G1’s construction, owner Jason Haas told CBJ that he wanted to create a gym that was essentially a “communal space, where people feel cared for and taken care of.” Seems like he has done just that.
Top Ten Largest New Climbing Gyms of 2020
(based on total climbing wall surface)
1st: The Front Climbing Club – South Main – Millcreek, UT – 26,685 sqft
2nd: G1 Climbing + Fitness – Broomfield, CO – 24,684 sqft
3rd: Mesa Rim – North City – San Marcos, CA – 22,671 sqft
4th: RoKC – Olathe – Olathe, KS – 20,000 sqft
5th (tie): Vertical View – Meridian, ID – 18,000 sqft
5th (tie): Stone Age – North – Albuquerque, NM – 18,000 sqft
7th (tie): The Riveter – Mills River, NC – 16,000 sqft
7th (tie): Gravity Vault – Brick – Brick, NJ – 16,000 sqft
9th: Climb So iLL – The Steel Shop – St Charles, MO – 15,243 sqft
10th: The Commons Climbing Gym – Boise, ID – 14,000 sqft
The trend of bouldering gyms reached new heights in 2020. For the first time, 50 percent of new gyms in the U.S. were bouldering-focused facilities. Another interesting aspect of bouldering gym data for 2020 is that the largest new facility—DBC North—actually featured more square feet of climbing surface than the largest new bouldering gym from 2019. In total, DBC North’s climbing measures 15,000 square feet and is split between a lower level and an upper mezzanine designed to be an espresso bar. The gym is also dog-friendly, which doesn’t add to the square footage, but does seem like an accoutrement that would aid in the facility’s appeal on Colorado’s Front Range. “DBC North will be a testament to how far we’ve come as a gym focusing on good climbing and good community,” said Anthony Bruno, former General Manager of DBC, at the gym’s outset.
Top Ten Largest New Bouldering Gyms of 2020
(based on total climbing wall surface)
1st: Denver Bouldering Club – North – Thornton, CO – 15,000 sqft
2nd: Rock Solid Climbing – Tucson, AZ – 12,206 sqft
3rd (tie): Brooklyn Boulders – Lincoln Park – Chicago, IL – 11,500 sqft
3rd (tie): The Circuit – Bend – Bend, OR – 11,500 sqft
5th: Oso Climbing Gym – Dallas, TX – 11,000 sqft
6th: Synergy Climbing & Ninja – Chattanooga, TN – 10,000 sqft
7th: Planet Granite – Santa Clara – Santa Clara, CA – 9,346 sqft
8th: Crux Climbing Center – Central – Austin, TX – 9,000 sqft
9th: The Overlook – Atlanta, GA – 8,200 sqft
10th: State Climb – Culpeper, VA – 7,300 sqft
Tallest New Climbing Gym of 2020
Vertical View
Meridian, ID
The walls of Vertical View rise as high as 65 feet from the floor. That not only means that the gym had the tallest indoor walls of any new gym for 2020, it means that Vertical View ranks among the dozen tallest North American gyms currently in operation. But in addition to offering four stories of climbing, the gym is a full-fitness facility and also provides speed climbing courses, yoga, and climber education classes. “We are stoked to offer world class climbing to the community here and also build that existing community by creating new climbers,” Tyler Pape, Vertical View’s Administrative Director, said of the gym project.
Top Ten Tallest New Climbing Gyms of 2020
(based on peak indoor climbing wall height)
1st: Vertical View – Meridian, ID – 65 ft
2nd: The Front Climbing Club – South Main – Millcreek, UT – 62 ft
3rd (tie): Frontier Climbing & Fitness – Sioux Falls, SD – 58 ft
3rd (tie): G1 Climbing + Fitness – Broomfield, CO – 58 ft
5th: Mesa Rim – North City – San Marcos, CA – 54 ft
6th (tie): Climb So iLL – The Steel Shop – St Charles, MO – 50 ft
6th (tie): RoKC – Olathe – Olathe, KS – 50 ft
8th: Gritstone Climbing and Fitness – Morganton, WV – 49 ft
9 (tie): The Commons Climbing Gym – Boise, ID – 45 ft
9 (tie): The Riveter – Mills River, NC – 45 ft
In 2019, one of the major developments of the year was the high number of expansion gyms that opened. 53 percent of new gyms that year were part of gym chains, and that year’s developer of the year―the developer with the most new gym openings―opened five new locations. By contrast, 39 percent of new gyms in 2020 were expansion gyms, and only one developer opened two new locations. Still, opening multiple new climbing gyms during a pandemic year is no small accomplishment, and all honors go to Andrew Coffey, owner of The Hive gyms in Canada.
Since opening his first bouldering-focused gym in 2012 in Vancouver, British Columbia, Coffey has added four more facilities in Canada. Two more bouldering gyms with a “more well-rounded level of fitness,” according to the The Hive website, followed in 2014 and 2019―North Shore in North Vancouver and Surrey further east, respectively. Last year, The Hive added its first mixed facility (bouldering and roped climbing) in nearby Port Coquitlam, British Columbia.
Perhaps most impressive though was the expansion of the gym chain to far away Manitoba. The new bouldering gym in Winnipeg boasts 12,000 square feet of climbing surface, in addition to the climbing courses and fitness opportunities found across its locations. While the Winnipeg facility has remained closed at times when its counterparts in British Columbia have been allowed to reopen, Coffey expressed gratitude in operating the gym businesses in Canada throughout this period.
“One thing that has set us apart from the U.S. climbing gym market is that the Federal government has stepped up and supported businesses with some really strong measures that help cover partial costs for rent and wages,” says Coffey. “I have never been more grateful to be living and working in Canada. My heart goes out to all the businesses that are struggling without such support―I do hope you are able to see this through.”
To read more about how The Hive opened multiple new gyms during a pandemic and what distinguishes its gym communities, check out the full interview with Andrew Coffey.
The Gym List 2020
New U.S. Roped Climbing Gyms of 2020
RANK
NAME
LOCATION
WALLS
HEIGHT
1
The Front Climbing Club – South Main
Millcreek – UT
26,685 sqft
62 ft
2
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Broomfield – CO
24,684 sqft
58 ft
3
Mesa Rim – North City
San Marcos – CA
22,671 sqft
54 ft
4
RoKC – Olathe
Olathe – KS
20,000 sqft
50 ft
5
Vertical View
Meridian – ID
18,000 sqft
65 ft
5
Stone Age – North
Albuquerque – NM
18,000 sqft
42 ft
7
The Riveter
Mills River – NC
16,000 sqft
45 ft
7
Gravity Vault – Brick
Brick – NJ
16,000 sqft
38 ft
9
Climb So iLL – The Steel Shop
St Charles – MO
15,243 sqft
50 ft
10
The Commons Climbing Gym
Boise – ID
14,000 sqft
45 ft
11
Gritstone Climbing and Fitness
Morganton – WV
13,500 sqft
49 ft
12
Latitude Climbing + Fitness – Virginia Beach
Virginia Beach – VA
13,000 sqft
40 ft
13
Method Climbing + Fitness
Newark – NJ
12,000 sqft
27 ft
13
Frontier Climbing & Fitness
Sioux Falls – SD
12,000 sqft
58 ft
15
Vertical Horizons Climbing Gym
Fort Smith – AR
10,000 sqft
35 ft
15
Sanctuary Rock Gym
Seaside – CA
10,000 sqft
20 ft
15
Aiguille Rock Climbing Center
Longwood – FL
10,000 sqft
30 ft
15
Climb Nittany
Boalsburg – PA
10,000 sqft
42 ft
19
Inner Peaks – Matthews
Matthews – NC
8,500 sqft
25 ft
20
High Steppe Climbing Center
Yakima – WA
7,500 sqft
32 ft
21
Adventure Rock – Walker’s Point
Milwaukee – WI
6,800 sqft
30 ft
22
Cornerstone Rock Gym
Glen St. Mary – FL
6,000 sqft
40 ft
New U.S. Bouldering Gyms of 2020
RANK
NAME
LOCATION
WALLS
HEIGHT
1
Denver Bouldering Club – North
Thornton – CO
15,000 sqft
15 ft
2
Rock Solid Climbing
Tucson – AZ
12,206 sqft
16 ft
3
Brooklyn Boulders – Lincoln Park
Chicago – IL
11,500 sqft
14 ft
3
The Circuit – Bend
Bend – OR
11,500 sqft
17 ft
5
Oso Climbing Gym
Dallas – TX
11,000 sqft
16 ft
6
Synergy Climbing & Ninja
Chattanooga – TN
10,000 sqft
12 ft
7
Planet Granite – Santa Clara
Santa Clara – CA
9,346 sqft
14 ft
8
Crux Climbing Center – Central
Austin – TX
9,000 sqft
16 ft
9
The Overlook
Atlanta – GA
8,200 sqft
15 ft
10
State Climb
Culpeper – VA
7,300 sqft
16 ft
11
Blue Swan Boulders
Orlando – FL
7,000 sqft
14 ft
12
Bigfoot Climbing Gym
Morganton – NC
6,500 sqft
16 ft
13
High Point Climbing – Cleveland
Cleveland – TN
4,134 sqft
14 ft
14
Climberz
Tea – SD
3,500 sqft
16 ft
14
Insight Climbing & Movement
Bremerton – WA
3,500 sqft
16 ft
16
Goat Fort Indoor Climbing
Warren – PA
3,000 sqft
14 ft
16
Brimstone Boulders
Hood River – OR
3,000 sqft
15 ft
18
Blocworks
Edmond – OK
2,624 sqft
13 ft
19
Climb Cincy
Cincinnati – OH
2,600 sqft
13 ft
20
Rock Bottom Climbing
Hanover – PA
2,000 sqft
12 ft
21
Black Hills Basecamp
Rapid City – SD
1,800 sqft
15 ft
22
Sunrise Bouldering
Genseo – NY
1,200 sqft
13 ft
New Canadian Climbing Gyms of 2020
The Hive – PoCo
Port Coquitlam – BC
mixed
The Hive – Winnipeg
Winnipeg – MB
bouldering
East Peak Indoor Climbing
Halifax – NS
mixed
Seven Bays Bouldering – Bayers Lake
Halifax – NS
bouldering
Basecamp Climbing – Queen West
Toronto – ON
bouldering
Aspire Climbing – Whitby
Whitby – ON
mixed
Le Crux – Laval
Laval – QC
mixed
Café Bloc
Montreal – QC
bouldering
Hook South Shore Bouldering
Sainte-Julie – QC
bouldering
Behind the Data
This feature is intended to act as an extension of Climbing Business Journal’s annual Gyms and Trends report. The research and data collection for 2020 was done largely by Leif Coopman, Chris Ryan, Austin Lokey and Madeleine Eichorn. Much of the statistical analysis was done by CBJ’s Data Analyst, Theresa Phamduy, Ph.D., with writing and editorial duties shared by Scott Rennak, Joe Robinson and John Burgman. The data is proprietary to CBJ, and a further explanation of the methodology can be found in the 2019 Gyms and Trends report.
CBJ is dedicated to researching and reporting accurately on the climbing gym industry in North America. Climbing gyms have been proliferating across the world since the early 1990s. The first gyms had flat walls and rudimentary holds, and often possessed inadequate air filtration, lighting, and landing zones. Modern climbing gyms, in contrast, often have vast open spaces with beautiful natural light, intricate wall designs and features, industrial HVAC, and are filled with bright and interesting shapes of plastic, fiberglass and wood. The industry has grown up, and modern climbing gyms now cater to a diverse and expanding clientele.
This article was updated on February 16, 2021, to reflect new data from the gym operators and wall manufacturers. All climbing facilities are encouraged to submit updates/corrections to your facility details here, or email simple edits to info@climbingbusinessjournal.com.
Behind the Desk is a series that interviews people and professionals in the climbing industry. For this Behind the Desk segment, CBJ heads north (virtually) to chat with Andrew Coffey, Owner (and “King Worker Bee”) of The Hive gyms in Canada. Coffey and The Hive opened two new facilities in 2020, earning the honors of Developer of the Year in the CBJ Gym List Awards. We wanted to learn more about opening multiple new gyms during a pandemic, what distinguishes The Hive gym communities, and the buzz for 2021.
Name: Andrew Coffey
Title: Owner & King Worker Bee, The Hive
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
CBJ: What factors helped you open two new climbing gyms during a crazy 2020?
COFFEY: The first factor is our amazing staff team. We have such an incredible group of people serving our community day-in and day-out. Without their help none of this would have been possible. I must offer a huge thanks to everyone on our management team for leading our crew during some difficult times. Extra special thanks to two individuals is absolutely necessary:
We would not be operating in Winnipeg, Manitoba, without the initiative, energy and engagement of our Managing Partner, Kori Cuthbert. Kori found the building, laid the groundwork and welcomed us into the climbing community he had helped establish in Winnipeg. Thank you Kori and hang in there!
In addition, our brilliant Brad Blackwell―who is one of our facility managers in British Columbia―was instrumental in getting both gyms up and running: leading staff training, finalizing all the little details, and being a pillar of strength in uncertain times. Thank you Brad! You have paved the way with your wit, wisdom and tireless work ethic.
The second factor is of course our fantastic climbing community, who continually amaze me with their support, encouragement and gratitude. They have continued to support us through these difficult days, and they have been the beacon that has helped us see through the storm to a brighter side. From all of us at The Hive, we are truly grateful, thank you for supporting us!
Why did you decide to open these new gyms in the locations of Port Coquitlam, British Columbia, and Winnipeg, Manitoba, specifically?
Personally, I have a soft spot in my heart for Winnipeg, having spent some formative and fantastic years there when I was young. This fine city was on our radar for quite a while, and when Kori reached out to discuss the challenges he was facing trying to open a gym, it was like meeting a long-lost brother. I understood those challenges and we clicked immediately. Knowing that the community in Winnipeg is absolutely exceptional and that opportunities for climbing were somewhat limited, it seemed like a natural fit and a wonderful opportunity. We can’t wait to reopen once the lockdown is lifted!
Here in BC, Port Coquitlam is one of the Lower Mainland’s most rapidly growing communities. With this growth, we felt there was increasing demand for recreation opportunities for youth and young families. Another big attraction in Port Coquitlam is the location itself. We secured an anchor-spot in a really unique building with lots of windows, tall ceilings, and adequate parking and zoning. It also boasts a huge range of retail services nearby. Being a part of this busy commercial complex is both something new for us and an exciting opportunity for growth. We can’t wait to have the Grand Opening party we postponed due to the pandemic!
What motivated your choices for a mixed gym in PoCo and bouldering gym in Winnipeg?
On a fundamental level, the base-building generally determines what we build; for example, if we found a 60-foot-tall space, we would probably build a rope gym. That said, those buildings are like unicorns. In Winnipeg, Kori had found and secured a fantastic building with ceilings that were high enough for really excellent bouldering, so that decision was quite easy.
In Port Coquitlam, we had the option of a little extra height, so we hummed and hawed about it for a bit, contemplating the possibility of ropes. In the end, we settled on a bouldering-dominant facility with a small section for auto-belays.
In truth, some of this decision was influenced by COVID-19. We were still finalizing the design of the walls in Port Coquitlam when COVID hit. With the challenges we were facing, we shied away from the additional challenges, costs and uncertainty of taking on a new style of operation during a global pandemic.
On a more meaningful level, if designed correctly, bouldering is an amazing way to be introduced to climbing, and we love this aspect of our facilities. I also like to think we kind of know what we’re doing on this front, so the familiarity was somewhat comforting in the face of the unknown impacts of a worldwide epidemic.
What were the biggest challenges you now face to operating five facilities during this period?
Like so many businesses, our biggest challenge these days is financial. With our capacities reduced substantially, it is difficult to make ends meet. Due to the measures in place, I would say our official capacity has been reduced by about 50%. In reality, half of this capacity occurs during the day-time, when facilities are typically slow anyway. So effectively we are operating at closer to 25% of capacity, with revenues reduced to a similar degree―down about 75%.
Another huge challenge is that we now operate on a reservation system, with limited time allowed for each booking. This means the gym is no longer a place you can just drop-in whenever you feel like it. We’ve lost a lot of that social scene that was so important for community building. I cannot wait for the day when we can hang out with friends at the climbing gym and project stuff together, celebrating our success and sharing our beta.
How are each of the various Hive gym communities different, and what unites them?
I firmly believe that we are united in our belief that ‘Climbing is for Everyone’ and ‘Everyone is a Climber.’ These are two fundamental mantras running through my head constantly, and they drive much of what we do. We all share a love of challenge and adventure; and somewhere, deep down, we believe that climbing can teach us things about ourselves and each other.
Our communities differ somewhat in their demographics. For example, the North Shore and Port Coquitlam see a lot of youth and family traffic, while Surrey and Vancouver see strong support in the young professional and post-secondary age ranges. We are very excited to see what the community in Winnipeg shapes up to be. Sadly, Winnipeg has been closed for more days than we’ve been open due to a public health order, and this closure came just as we were getting rolling.
Regardless, I have faith that we will find like-minded people wherever we are lucky enough to grow, and it is our central focus on building a community of kind, caring and conscientious people that ties all The Hive facilities together―and makes our community so special.
What drives The Hive?
The first thing one learns upon joining our staff team is that our mission is to ‘Make Life Better!’ It’s (almost) as simple as that. In everything we do, we strive to ‘Make Life Better,’ and we focus on four key pillars to do that: Climbing, Education, Community and Health & Wellness.
In practice, this means that for each and every member of our community, coming to the gym has the potential to brighten their day. It may offer them a sense of accomplishment or create meaning through challenge and mastery. It might be a break from the stresses of life and provide time to reflect on big decisions. It could mean making new friends or learning about yourself and finding your truth. At root, it is always about staying healthy and keeping fit: physically, mentally and socially.
So, beneath this simple motto, ‘Making Life Better,’ means many things. On one level, we offer climbing and we try to do that to the best of our abilities. On another level, we build community, and this has been perhaps our biggest loss during the pandemic―it’s hard to build community at distance.
Finally, on the ultimate and most meaningful level, I think what drives us is that we all love what we do, we love the people we get to do it with, and we believe that we all win when we ‘Make Life Better!’
How has the Canadian gym market been different from the US this past year?
In Canada, we are all operating under slightly different Provincial guidelines, so at the moment, some Provinces have lock-downs that have affected various sectors of the economy differently. In BC, our facilities are open with restrictions; in Manitoba, we are currently closed, as are other gyms in Alberta, Ontario and Quebec.
One thing that has set us apart from the U.S. climbing gym market is that the Federal government has stepped up and supported businesses with some really strong measures that help cover partial costs for rent and wages, and there are some programs that have facilitated access to funding for additional expenses.
While some of this falls short―in particular for new businesses such as our Winnipeg and Port Coquitlam gyms which are not receiving any of these supports―these programs have enabled existing businesses to keep employees on, made up for a portion of lost revenues, and in many cases allowed businesses to survive the challenges of reduced capacity and additional expenses.
I have never been more grateful to be living and working in Canada. My heart goes out to all the businesses that are struggling without such support―I do hope you are able to see this through.
Anything exciting coming up at The Hive gyms in 2021?
Part of me wants to say, ‘Wasn’t 2020 exciting enough? How about a nice relaxing, low-key, uneventful 2021?’ I long for the day when I don’t have to wake up wondering what new rules or regulations are going to be announced that afternoon, and what changes we are going to have to make to our policy, communicate to our staff, and enforce with our community.
I am excited for the day when there is no more COVID casualty count coming from our health officials; the day when we can go back to being there in person for each other in our times of need, when we can celebrate those special moments with friends and family gathered together without the fear of contracting the virus and giving it to our grandparents and co-workers.
I am excited to see the community come back to climbing stronger than ever, and perhaps we can begin thinking beyond the next few days or the next period of restrictions. I look forward to getting back to planning our next new project, our next National Competition, and our next community celebration.
I think the most exciting thing will be when we can walk into the gym and see people’s faces for the first time in over a year! Maybe we’ll have a ceremonial ‘burning of the masks’ in the parking lot. Though it feels like such a small thing, it will be exciting to share in the simple joy of seeing a friendly smile.
The homewall trend continues into 2021 with a bunch of new climbing hold shapes and tools catered towards training and getting strong on home woodies. But multiple fresh offerings hint towards heading back to the climbing gym and comp seasons to come. Sleek stacking volumes and large profile grips made a big impact this month. Enjoy!
Each month we plan to publish a list of recent hold, volume, and training gear releases. Brands that self-report using this form will be included for free.
Winter months usually mean comp season is coming, and despite Covid, this year is no different. USA Climbing and federations around the world plan to host events however they can. Youth team athletes are anxious and ready for their altered season. And gyms that are open are entertaining new event formats to accommodate today’s environment. Like everyone in 2021, comp climbing is still finding it’s footing, but with determination.
Stories for Insiders
Maia’s Choice (Delaney Miller, Gym Climber)
“With an amputation there were risks. Worst-case scenario was I’d never get up on a prosthetic or I’d have horrible phantom pain for the rest of my life. But there was hope that I would be more active and that I could have goals with my kids. I just got to the point where I couldn’t live with myself without trying.” – Rachel Māia
Video: LIGHT – hidden world of eating disorders in professional rock climbing (Caroline Treadway)
“…The filmmaker follows two best friends on their harrowing journey in a courageous narrative that breaks the silence about the sport’s darkest secret…We hope it will spark fresh dialogue, remove some stigma and offer solace to those who need it.” – Caroline Treadway
Podcast: Jon Glassberg (The Climbing Nugget)
“Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14.” – The Climbing Nugget
Comp News + Opinion
Video: 5 ON / 5 OFF with Albert Ok (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)
USA Climbing National Team Trials Coming to Memphis (John Burgman)
“High Point is very excited to host National Team Trials in Memphis, Tennessee. We will be following all appropriate protocols to host a safe event and look forward to showing the growing climbing community here some serious sports action.” – John Wiygul
Olympic Officials Dispel Cancellation Rumors Amid Uncertainty (Kevin Corrigan, Climbing Mag)
“We will be implementing all possible countermeasures against COVID-19 and will continue to work closely with the IOC, the Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government in our preparations for holding a safe and secure Games this summer.” – Thomas Bach
National Team Trials Coming to Memphis (John Burgman)
Pride, Relief, Exhaustion: Behind the Wrench with Simon Parton (John Burgman)
“There are routesetters out there with potential who want to do this long term; they aren’t hard to find, we’ve just got to give them a chance through training, appropriate compensation, and a little respect…This job is already very difficult; it doesn’t need to be any harder.” – Simon Parton
Longtime Florida Gym to be “Reborn” this Year
“This is a major transformation, and while we might not be making gold from lead, we are transforming an old discount movie theater that had been empty and vacant for almost two years into a full-offering climbing gym.” – Richard Ruddell
HWOW 42: Carefully Considered Garage Wall