Climbing Insider News Weekly: February 5

Photo by Daniel Gajda @gajdaphotography
Photo by Daniel Gajda @gajdaphotography

Just a few thoughts

Winter months usually mean comp season is coming, and despite Covid, this year is no different. USA Climbing and federations around the world plan to host events however they can. Youth team athletes are anxious and ready for their altered season. And gyms that are open are entertaining new event formats to accommodate today’s environment. Like everyone in 2021, comp climbing is still finding it’s footing, but with determination.

Stories for Insiders

Maia’s Choice (Delaney Miller, Gym Climber)
“With an amputation there were risks. Worst-case scenario was I’d never get up on a prosthetic or I’d have horrible phantom pain for the rest of my life. But there was hope that I would be more active and that I could have goals with my kids. I just got to the point where I couldn’t live with myself without trying.” – Rachel Māia

Video: LIGHT – hidden world of eating disorders in professional rock climbing (Caroline Treadway)
“…The filmmaker follows two best friends on their harrowing journey in a courageous narrative that breaks the silence about the sport’s darkest secret…We hope it will spark fresh dialogue, remove some stigma and offer solace to those who need it.” – Caroline Treadway

Podcast: Jon Glassberg (The Climbing Nugget)
“Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14.” – The Climbing Nugget

Comp News + Opinion

Video: 5 ON / 5 OFF with Albert Ok (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

USA Climbing National Team Trials Coming to Memphis (John Burgman)
“High Point is very excited to host National Team Trials in Memphis, Tennessee. We will be following all appropriate protocols to host a safe event and look forward to showing the growing climbing community here some serious sports action.” – John Wiygul

Olympic Officials Dispel Cancellation Rumors Amid Uncertainty (Kevin Corrigan, Climbing Mag)
“We will be implementing all possible countermeasures against COVID-19 and will continue to work closely with the IOC, the Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government in our preparations for holding a safe and secure Games this summer.” – Thomas Bach


Routesetting + Home Training

Video: Homewall Routesetting – What is Risk? (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Podcast: How to Climb and Train Effectively with Different Level Climbers (Kris Hampton, The Power Company)
“While I agree it can be hugely motivating to have a partner who is working on the same things that you are – who you can share beta and tactic ideas with – it’s also 100% up to you to find the motivation to keep pushing when that partner doesn’t materialize.” – Kris Hampton

Video: Fingerboarding for the first time during lockdown – Lockdown Training Discussion (UK Climbing)

Spinal Mobility (Dr. Jared Vagy, Gym Climber)
“Most climbers know the benefit of flexible limbs (arms and legs) but forget about the importance of a flexible trunk (spine)…Here, Brooke Raboutou demonstrates three exercises to improve your spinal flexibility and rotation for climbing.” – Dr. Jared Vagy

CBJ Originals

National Team Trials Coming to Memphis (John Burgman)

Pride, Relief, Exhaustion: Behind the Wrench with Simon Parton (John Burgman)
“There are routesetters out there with potential who want to do this long term; they aren’t hard to find, we’ve just got to give them a chance through training, appropriate compensation, and a little respect…This job is already very difficult; it doesn’t need to be any harder.” – Simon Parton

Longtime Florida Gym to be “Reborn” this Year
“This is a major transformation, and while we might not be making gold from lead, we are transforming an old discount movie theater that had been empty and vacant for almost two years into a full-offering climbing gym.” – Richard Ruddell

HWOW 42: Carefully Considered Garage Wall