Triangle to Expand in Richmond

Triangle Rock Club is preparing to break ground on a $2 million expansion to add 15,000 square feet of climbing terrain to its gym in Richmond, Virgina.

The North Carolina-based chain opened its Richmond location last spring in the former Richmond Athletic Club building. Triangle bought the building in 2017 for $1.4 million and spent $1.6 million to upgrade it.

Triangle now is adding 6,000 square feet to its footprint, with walls reaching about 50 feet in height. Director Kayla Phillips said the expansion would more than double the amount of climbing area at the gym.

Triangle has about 850 members, she said, with memberships starting at $65 per month plus a $75 initial fee.

She said they’re looking to break ground this month and to open by year-end.

Evo Breaks Ground in Golden

From left to right: Founder and Co-Owner of EVO Rock + Fitness, Hilary Harris, Mayor of Golden Colorado, Marjorie Sloan, Co-Owner of EVO Rock + Fitness, Clint Dillard, Co-Owner of EVO Rock + Fitness, Stephen Price, Owner of Kodiak Real Estate Group, Hunter Moore

EVO Rock + Fitness, with locations in Louisville, CO; Portland, ME and Concord, NH broke ground with Kodiak Real Estate Group for their next location in Golden, Colorado this past Monday, April 8th . The gym will be a bouldering only facility featuring training boards, creative routesetting, a personable crew and an inclusive vibe.


With industry trends leaning towards building larger facilities across the nation, EVO wants to doing something different. An architect by trade, founder Hilary Harris said “There seems to be a tipping point somewhere in the scale of a gym where the intimate community feel climbers are drawn to gets lost in the largeness. We wanted to try out something different, go back to our roots, and see if we could not recreate that in a smaller gym.”

The Golden location will be just under 11,000 square feet. Members will have the option to use the larger facility in Louisville if they are looking for more extensive terrain and offerings.


EVO Bouldering – Golden is aiming to open in the winter of 2020.

Impact: Feel the Difference

It’s only a matter of time before more people hear about IMPACT Climbing. With humble beginnings in Milton, Ontario, Canada, IMPACT has amassed over a decade of climbing wall manufacturing experience. Building a successful business is an enormous undertaking. It takes dedication and hunger to become an entrepreneur. Kyle and Erin Wilson, founders of IMPACT Climbing, understand this journey all too well. Building a climbing wall is like creating a business; many moving parts combine to make a solid structure that endures. But with a team of experts behind them, success is possible. IMPACT Climbing’s story began with a love for climbing. After Kyle’s first exposure to climbing, he knew he wanted to share this with the world. Before his venture as an entrepreneur, Kyle built his skills in the trades. He’s a craftsman with the ability to create just about anything: he brings his visions to life. It was Kyle’s dream to one day open a climbing facility. As luck would have it while looking further into opening his own facility, an opportunity presented itself and Kyle was hired at the ground level of a new climbing gym start-up. Being there through the early stages of construction, he was introduced to a world that combined his construction background with his love of climbing. He quickly picked up on the tricks of the trade, making industry contacts that later fueled the start of his own company. But, he didn’t know that at the time. “Three months into my dream job and it vanished. I realized I would never let that happen again.” Adversity is a part of success stories. Working for a climbing gym seemed like the right fit, but when that was taken away, a new vision emerged.

“I remember thinking, this is it.”

Having previously made a great connection with Rockwerx USA, Kyle forged a plan to become their Canadian Sales Rep. The success of this relationship grew into what later became Rockwerx Canada. Even with a great product behind him, the climbing landscape in Canada was still sparse and phone calls were not rushing in. In 2009, Kyle landed his first project. He hustled for this sale and cut his profits from this job, but he knew that this would be his start. “I had never constructed an entire project on my own, but I told them I could do it for half the price they were quoted, and they agreed.” Of course, a business practice like this is not sustainable. To makes ends meet while promoting their new business venture, Kyle and Erin constructed a portable climbing wall. With the wall in tow, they traveled to events and fairs on weekends: set-up, belay, tear-down. This process of hauling the wall from fair to fair allowed them both to gain valuable experience in bringing climbing to the masses and would later influence their vision for their future climbing gym business. Through their dedication and perseverance, their big break finally arrived. This small Canadian company landed a substantial project through the Daniels Corporation, a premier construction company for high-rises and condos in the greater Toronto area. This was the catalyst that pushed their climbing wall manufacturing to the next level. Valuable experience was gained working through tenders with corporate construction firms, municipal building codes and all the rigorous cross-border requirements for large scale construction projects; now an everyday practice for IMPACT Climbing. “It was a huge moment in my career where I learned there is always a way. Always.” In 2014, the industry was changing and experiencing rapid growth in climbing wall builds and start-up facilities. As demand increased the need for lower cost climbing wall solutions and reduced time on-site pushed Kyle to develop his own climbing wall panel system, now known as Velvet GRIP. The new system, named for its texture, had unique properties in comparison to existing textures on the market. Velvet GRIP strikes a beautiful balance as it provides excellent friction, without excessive roughness on the skin or on climbing shoe rubber. It also has a durable clear finish that allows the warmth of real wood to show through the finish. Using cabinet-grade plywood, custom pre-fabricated steel-frame construction and unique wall designs with each project; this Canadian company was indeed making an impact. In 2017, Kyle and Erin formed IMPACT Climbing Inc. to further the development of their innovations under their own brand, with the official launch at the beginning of 2018.

A MANUFACTURER THAT UNDERSTANDS THE DEMANDS IN THE CLIMBING INDUSTRY TO CREATE INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS THAT INSPIRE AND ENDURE

From commercial climbing gyms to small residential projects and just about everything in between, Impact has done it. “Every project sees the same level of importance and meticulous detail because it’s a big investment for business owners, regardless of the scale.” Says Robert Jamison, IMPACT’s sales manager. IMPACT Climbing has left their footprint across Canada since 2009, with projects that include Grand River Rocks, Junction Climbing, Alt Rock, Top Rock, Boulder Bear, Rock Jungle Fitness, Aspire Climbing, Beta Crux, Back Bone and Boulder Parc, to name a few. The impact has stretched beyond the climbing industry to include other corporate, commercial and fitness facilities like Google in Waterloo, MLSE in Toronto, The University of Guelph, the Ontario Science Centre, and playgrounds such as Air Riderz Trampoline Park, Ninjaz Canada, Inja Nation, AeroSport Trampoline Parks, Free Run, Jack’s Urban Jungle and Sky Zone in London and St. Catharines. Beyond Canada, IMPACT Climbing has completed several international projects in the US, Europe, Australia and Dubai. The team behind IMPACT Climbing has served as the backbone of all their achievements. The limit to the scope of IMPACT’s capabilities is high and they’ve barely scratched the surface of their design, fabrication, construction and service team’s potential. 2016 marked another significant milestone for the husband and wife duo. Before dabbling in the climbing industry to support her intrepid entrepreneur, Erin was a professional educator and craved an outlet for development. Hark back to Kyle’s earliest goals of running a climbing gym and combine that with his increased experience with each new IMPACT build; owning and operating their own facility became a goal to aspire to. Lead by an incredible team and with Joë Layno at the helm as the General Manager, Aspire Climbing and Fitness opened its doors in April of 2016. The synergetic relationship between IMPACT and Aspire is exemplified by sharing the same address in Milton, ON, Canada. Aspire Climbing and Fitness serves as the customer-facing side of their climbing enterprise, while IMPACT fulfills the manufacturing and construction of climbing structures, volumes, free climb attractions, ninja courses and flooring systems. With a climbing facility under the same roof, new ideas and products are quickly subjected to real-world testing for rapid refinement prior to new product releases. So, what’s next for IMPACT and Aspire? While IMPACT increases its market penetration into the US and across the globe, Aspire is now offering franchise opportunities. Aspire Franchise is a sustainable climbing gym model with full-service manufacturing and installation, from building permits and design/engineering to staff training and ongoing business consulting. Aspire Franchise is a 100% full turn-key business model for the entrepreneur, ready to climb on board this fast-growing fitness obsession. Impact is also looking for sales reps and distributors in Canada, Europe, Asia and the USA. To learn about our team, please contact us at info@impactclimbing.com. Be sure to visit Impact Climbings booth at the Climbing Wall Association 2019 https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/about. To learn more about Impact Climbing and Aspire Climbing Franchise Opportunity, visit www.Impactclimbing.com www.aspireclimbing.ca/franchise
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

2nd World Indoor Climbing Summit of Walltopia

The moment Free Solo won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature, climbing underground days were recognizably gone. The Oscar was the ultimate acknowledgement that, after years of significant growth, climbing is no longer a niche sport but a global trend.
Not everyone saw this coming, especially at such a pace. There were a few visionaries, though, who predicted that evolution and worked hard towards it. You will be able to hear many of them speak at the second edition of the World Indoor Climbing Summit (WICS). WICS stands out from other events in the climbing industry because it gathers a unique international set of climbing industry experts, under one roof. A carefully selected agenda built around the business of running a climbing gym — and the do’s and don’ts of turning it into a profitable venture, from the perspective of various markets — make the event a valuable experience for any climbing gym operator. Most importantly, it unites the pioneers of the industry on a global scale — people who have witnessed and experienced the growth of climbing from the first row and have played a big role in it. “It was interesting to hear the different ways the US market diversifies from Europe and Australia and some other places. And I thought that was unique perspective that I haven’t had before. […] The format of having roundtables on stage was really valuable. Having all these gym operators from around the world in one place and having that kind of discussions was really interesting.” Jeffery Bowling, Marketing, IT and Business Development Manager at Touchstone Climbing The event’s preferred format of panel discussion is an engaging one that provokes conversation and gathers different points of view. A few of the topics will include: • First steps to opening a new gym, including finding financing: what it takes to get approved for a loan, lease or a real estate fund; how each works and what experiences people have already had with them. • Gym location and building hunt. • Facility specifics to serve the unique demographics of your target groups. • Technical details and specs when planning a climbing gym. • Route setting and flooring. Discussions will be open — attendees are encouraged to participate. You will find the conference schedule on the WICS website. The WICS will also host an exhibition area where manufacturers and suppliers from the industry can showcase their latest products, and meet potential clients and partners. The first edition of WICS united over 300 industry leaders from 38 countries. Dana Schenhoffer from Headrush, one of the exhibitors, shares: “There are some really quality people here. So what I mean by that is there has been kind of a filter applied and there are gym owners and builders and operators and not so much the people that don’t make decisions, so it’s the higher level clientele” Watch a recap from last year’s event. WICS will again be hosted by Walltopia in Sofia, Bulgaria; June 19th – 21st 2019. You can see the full program and secure your place at the early bird rate with the promo code CBJEARLYBIRD at the event website. “As a professional climber for over 25 years and also a climbing gym owner I am just happy to be here and network with other gym owners and see some of the latest technologies and yeah…it’s a great opportunity to kind of network and see old friends. […] After being here I would recommend other friends in the industry to come here. I think anyone who wants to open a climbing gym would benefit a lot from being here.” Chris Sharma, Professional climber and Gym Owner
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Building a Website For Your Climbing Gym

Photo: Stone Summit
By John Burgman Every manager knows that customer safety must be a top priority, followed by customer satisfaction and staff supervision at a gym. But, in between keeping the facility clean and safe, conversing with customers and employees, and handling the finances, managers don’t typically possess free time for other matters. Often lost in the busy schedule is a gym’s website, which resides like a secondary priority with only ambiguous importance. But more than ever, gym managers are seeing such line of thinking—making a gym’s website an afterthought—as faulty and potentially damaging. “The role of the website has and continues to evolve,” says Kenneth Sheyka, owner of Rock Out Climbing Gym in Destin, Florida. “When we were  opening, I thought, ‘Well of course, we have to have a website—everyone has one!’ It served as a great spot to list all the information we could think of like where we were located, what our prices were, and a convenient spot to offer the link to our waiver. Not much has changed in that respect with the rates and ‘Get Climbing’ being consistently our bigger traffic hits. We have recently added our blog section, and we have also recently built out our calendar of events.” Rock Out is notable for its two main boulder features near the facility’s front door, and Sheyka strives for a website that offers a similar wow factor with photos of the famed boulders and climbers, the Rock Out logo, and inviting colors. In fact, a website—not the facility itself—is probably what gives potential customers a first impression of any given gym in this day and age, and that means a website should do more than simply portray the fun aspects of climbing. It should also convey trust. Dana Caracciolo, the General Manager at the Doylestown Rock Gym in Doylestown, Pennsylvania, also notes that a website is a key point of entry, even before people actually enter the gym. “The best thing is when a customer comes in and says, I saw this on your website…,” says Caracciolo. “To me, that means we gave them enough information for them to decide to visit or participate in a service. They didn’t need a web inquiry or a phone call or a social media message to answer any more questions. Likewise, if we repeatedly get calls at the front desk for the same questions then we make sure it gets put on the website. If folks are missing it, then we try to highlight it or make it more obvious.” Doylestown Rock Gym opted to work with web developer Pushinpixels for a website—all hard coded and using only one widget. This model has helped minimize bugs, hacks, and other things that might affect a website, according to Caracciolo. But there are countless web developers on the market, and gym managers now have the benefit of being able to create a website that can do practically anything. Tim Sarazen runs Display 97, a climbing gym website company that helps facilities maximize their website potential. He was a key speaker at this year’s CWA conference, and he has worked with a number of gyms to track their existing website’s performance and improve it. He notes that those people who are browsing a gym’s website are probably already intrigued by climbing, so the website should build on that. And that means that a good website should speak the user’s language. As a hypothetical example, Sarazen says a gym website should build trust by honing in on what customers are seeking. “Instead of saying, Welcome to Tim’s Climbing Gym, [a good website] might say something like, What are your goals? And how can we help achieve them?  Oh, by the way, we’re the best place to do that—and people just like you have already experienced the kinds of things you hope to achieve at our facility. That’s just a lot stronger value proposition than, Welcome to Tim’s Climbing Gym,” he explains. KNOWING WEBSITE HABITS Many gym managers could quickly improve their gym’s website just by being aware of some nuance in Internet browsing behavior. Two key terms that Sarazen references often when explaining what his company helps businesses with are traffic and leads. Web traffic—the number of users visiting a website—is valuable in its own right, but what most gym owners ultimately want to measure, even if they don’t realize it, are leads—which are collectively the names and email addresses (or phone numbers) of people who are interested in knowing more about joining the gym. “For a local business, you don’t need a $100,000 marketing hire. You don’t need an agency. You just need to have some basic fundamental understanding of how to speak to things that your community wants,” Sarazen says. Another differentiation made is between inbound and outbound sources. Inbound web traffic signifies those people who have searched Google for a climbing gym and arrived at a specific gym’s website. In other words, Google has brought the user to a specific brand of gym. Sarazen says this is the 21st century equivalent of searching through the phone book for a gym: “Back in the day, someone would flip to ‘Rock Climbing’ in the yellow pages and then just kind of choose the listing that looked most attractive to them. That’s what a website is—it’s someone going to the digital yellow pages and finding a rock climbing gym. And that is when and where the aforementioned trust must then be gained.” But there’s another category of Internet browsers: those people who haven’t searched Google for a climbing gym—perhaps they have never before even thought about rock climbing as an activity—but they have arrived at a gym’s website through an ad, such as one on Facebook.  Those people might need to be sold on the idea of rock climbing altogether. For these people, a gym needs a landing page, separate from the website. Landing pages usually promote a specific program or event—or the activity (“rock climbing”) itself. For all the nuance, this means that Internet users are likely to arrive at a gym’s website theoretically asking, Do I trust this gym? And they’ll arrive at a gym’s landing page asking, Do I want to rock climb? Increased web traffic also means that many gym websites are becoming more robust and divers with content—particularly as other, non-climbing recreational facilities vie for personnel. “We want folks to understand that we are more than a ‘pay to play’ type facility, especially in the age of trampoline parks and zip-line tours,” says Caracciolo. “For example, we are very involved in the local outdoor crags and the Access Fund, so we make sure that has a place. And, we have developed a strong adaptive climbing program so that has a place as well. These aren’t things that we just ‘do on the side’ rather they are part of our core values.” MAKING IMPORTANT CHANGES One of the most common mistakes gyms make is to put too many “calls to action” on the website, which means that users are given too many options. Usually gym owners don’t have any preference how users—and, potential leads—contact the gym, whether it’s calling by phone or registering online or stopping in in-person. But a website should be precise in delivering a message of one of those specific actions, not all. Website users should know exactly what it is the gym wants them to do, and how to do it—wherever the users might be in that journey of building trust. “The pitfall many gym owners do is they throw all the calls to action on the website,” Sarazen says, pointing out that such flawed methodology results in a psychological phenomenon known as paradox of choice. “That has been proven to be a very poor user experience. In the lack of direction, [the users] simply don’t do anything.” He continues, “If I’m told, ‘Here’s the value, here’s the benefit, do this action now,’ then I understand what the next steps are, and I understand what [the gym] wants me to do, and I’m going to feel more confident in that decision if I decide to make it.” Another specific change that would benefit a lot of gyms’ websites is improving the staff pages, which harkens back to building trust. Sheyka at Rock Out makes sure that there is a visible association between the website and the personnel inside the gym. “Our Welcome Desk is up front when you walk in the physical gym, so when you click on our staff page on the website, you see the same faces you should see when you walk in the door,” he says. Snapshots of staff members atop windswept cliffs or hanging from ropes, while common on gym websites, are probably not the best types of images to convey comfort and safety—at least not to website users who are new to climbing. Also, it’s common for staff biographies to read like travelogues of famous crags that the staff have visited. Again, this is flawed because it puts the attention on the staff members rather than the website users.  In other words, a staff page’s text should be customer-centric. STAYING CURRENT A recent study from the Pew Research Center found that 71 percent of Americans ages 18-24,  key demographic for any climbing gym, use Instagram; 45 percent use Twitter. Social media can be a great tool for a gym to show users—and the community—that it is active. But having a Twitter or Instagram account does not mean that every post has to be a lengthy communiqué or literary masterwork. In fact, the fast-paced nature of social media allows for mistakes and typos more so than websites do. If a gym wants to adopt a basic schedule, it should consider making a few social media posts per week—one post that is informative, such as an announcement about an upcoming competition or event at the gym; one post that is educational, such as a reference to an external study on rock climbing and fitness; and one post that is sales- related, such as a discount code for gear. Sheyka has a team that handles most of the copy for Rock Out’s blogs. The blogs’ topics are discussed in advance at staff meetings, and Sheyka then signs off on any content before it gets posted. “What the Blogs do is work as search engine optimization where we can place key words and increase our chances of being a search engine hit,” he says. “Also, we link to these specific articles when we post on social media, and inform our climbers about things like bringing their children to the gym or women and climbing programs, or float therapy for climbing injury recovery.” It’s no secret that social media is embraced more so by the younger demographics, but this can be turned into an advantage by gym managers. Managers can employ young members of a gym, rather than paid staff, to be social media ambassador, or some such designation, and shoulder the gym’s social media in exchange for gear or membership discounts. Such thrifty savviness illustrates how little tweaks can result in big benefits for any gym. Websites are more important now than they ever have been for facilities. While grassroots marketing is still essential, there’s no substitute for smart online presentation and constant website improvements. For instance, Rock Out plans to add an online registration page for competitions, which might dovetail into general signup pages for classes at the gym. Sarazen says, “Users are determining the quality of your brand based on the aesthetic nature of your website, whereas in the past—five to ten years ago—you could just have a bad website and that wasn’t indicative of the quality of you as a brand.” He adds, “Now that has shifted in users’ brains simply because of what we’ve been exposed to. We’ve been exposed to beautiful websites. We are expecting a higher quality there, and so when we see something of lower quality, that negatively impacts our brand perception. So, the consequences of not investing in your online marketing in the past five years have increased.” For Sheyka, particularly in regards to video and other media on a website, as well as overall presentation, community goes a long way. “We have learned that organic and authentic content performs much better than paid advertising,” he notes. “There is just something about the feel of our brand and our overall identity that people resonate with.”

Climb Hires New COO

Inside Climb Bentonville. Photo: Climb
The team behind Climb Nashville, Climb Murfreesboro and Climb Bentonville have founded a new company to help with expansion of the Climb-brand of climbing gyms. Climb HQ, LLC. which was formalized January 1 st of 2018, was created as a support company for the growing Climb organization.  The founders Drew Sloss and Lance Brock, decided to build a centralized company that provides services to each of the Climb locations. “As we were assessing the next phase of growth for Climb, it became clear that we needed a separate company to help each location navigate the  various challenges new businesses face, as well as, support the development of Climb’s culture in new regions and states,” said Sloss. Climb opened its first location, Climb Nashville, in 2003 and added a second Nashville location in 2014. Climb Murfreesboro opened its doors in  Murfreesboro, TN in September of 2018 and opened Climb Bentonville in Bentonville, Arkansas, January of 2019. Along with the new Arkansas location in 2019, Climb HQ has brought Dan Sheehan onto its team. “We’re thrilled to have Dan join our organization.  He brings a wealth of institutional background know- how from his tenure as Vice President and General Manager at Ingram Content Group.  Over the last seven years at Ingram, Dan, simultaneously, led 3 distinct business units to historical levels of growth, from $330M to $450M.  Dan understands the challenges we face as we continue to expand,” said Brock. When asked what attracted Dan to make the jump to Climb from such a different industry, Sheehan commented that “Climb is built upon a set of values and principles that is aligned with mine and the foundation is set for us to go and go hard.  The opportunity is a perfect blend of my passions such as enhancing the customer experience, growing top and bottom line, improving processes and workflows, a healthy and fit lifestyle and the entrepreneurial spirit.” Climb celebrated its 15 th anniversary as a company last year. “When we started in 2003, I think our goal was fairly simple. We loved climbing and wanted to share that with our greater Nashville community at large. Not much has changed since then except our size. Three years ago, we solidified our company mission with the simple words: We believe climbing is transformative and we exist to share that experience. We intend to continue that mission in as many communities as we can,” Sloss says with a smile.

Climbing Proposed for 2024 Olympics

During a press conference in Paris, France, the Paris Organising Committee of the Olympic & Paralympic Games (Paris 2024) confirmed a proposal to include four additional sports in the Sports Programme of the 33rd Summer Olympic Games: Breakdance, Skateboarding, Surfing and Sport Climbing. The proposal will next be presented to the IOC Executive Board on March 26th-28th. If accepted, the proposal will then be put forward to the 134th IOC Session on 24th June in Lausanne, Switzerland. If approved, Sport Climbing will be featured in the Summer Olympic Games for the second consecutive edition. “It is again a great day: our climb goes on, and new challenges are taking shape beyond Tokyo. We are happy to see that Paris 2024 is supporting the new wave, which is strengthening the Olympic movement. We are grateful for the proposal’s recognition of the value of Sport Climbing and the work the IFSC has done. We are proud to be part of this process and we look forward to the next steps in the following months,” says Marco Scolaris, President of the IFSC. In 2016, Sport Climbing was added to the upcoming Olympic Games in Tokyo and most recent Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires, where Sport Climbing made its Olympic debut. Additionally, Paris 2024 plans to enrich the Sport Climbing event in 2024 by expanding from one to two distinct competitions, six to twelve medals and 40 to 72 athletes in total. Under the proposal, 16 women and 16 men would compete for six medals in the Speed discipline; 20 women and 20 men would compete for six medals based on the combination of results in the Bouldering and Lead disciplines.

New Shapes, New Movement by Premium Holds

Photo: Andy Fleming
Branded Content
You walk into a new gym hoping for a good climbing workout. You are eager for the stretch and the pump. Excited voices of other climbers echo throughout the space underneath overhead music. It smells faintly of sweat and chalk. You look around at the walls and assess your climbing options. In addition to color-coded paths of jugs, crimps, and slopers there are now some routes with huge wall-altering volumes. You can’t figure out the beta for these routes just by looking. You walk up to one and palm the starting holds. It becomes apparent that you will need to use your whole body in unfamiliar ways to get to the top. A flutter of excitement passes through you as you prepare to try something new.

Fiberglass Volumes: Bigger, Lighter, More Dynamic

The newest thing in climbing gyms—besides coffee shops, yoga classes, and cross-fit style training programs—is utilizing large fiberglass volumes in route setting. These shapes can be the size of a coffee table, but since they are constructed from fiberglass, are remarkably lightweight for the size. Fiberglass as a medium allows for rounder shapes that cannot be achieved with wood volumes, and this roundness promotes open-handed interaction with the holds and results in moves that require precise balance and body-tension. “Imagine a basketball sliced in half across the equator and mounted on a wall,” said Chris LoCrasto, describing some of the volumes available from the European hold manufacturer 360, which produces the largest shapes on the market. LoCrasto, along with Kyle Clinkscales and Stan Borodyansky, owns and runs the Texas-based Summit Gyms, and now the three also co-own Premium Holds, a new company that imports European holds for an American market. Unlike other climbing holds, volumes can change the angle and shape of the wall in drastic ways that make the terrain feel fresh and new. For a route setter, this opens up a new world of possibilities. The movement on routes with volumes is not necessarily more difficult than standard climbing, but can be much harder to execute on the first try. These holds can also force more dynamic and gymnastic movements than would be made on more standard incut holds.

Climbing Comps: How to Keep Things Interesting?

In climbing competitions, one of the biggest recurring challenges is figuring out how to set routes that continue to challenge elite-level competitors without becoming repetitive or predictable. Now that climbing will make its debut in the Olympics, there is also a desire to make climbing more audience-friendly. To attract viewers, climbing competitions need to be a little more showy and simultaneously be easy for an onlooker to decipher who is winning. The typical setting style was no longer meeting these needs. Enter fiberglass volumes. Now it is common to watch a competition where climbers are making huge leaps between holds, balancing precariously on shapes with no visible incut, and contorting themselves between shapes, sometimes with their backs facing the wall or toes wrapped around the edge of a large shape. Climbing comps are becoming a little more like parkour. Routesetters refer to this style of climbing as higher risk: the climbs involve more coordination and more learning in order to be able to successfully complete them. This type of movement is very difficult to create with small holds, but volumes encourage it. The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), which is the organization responsible for World Cup competitions, has specified guidelines for route setters. For bouldering competitions setters must use at least 500 different holds, half of them need to be micro-sized, and 30 should be volumes of different sizes. For lead climbing, the number of holds is doubled to at least 1000, but they are still required to use 30 volumes. This requirement shows that being able to climb well on volumes is necessary for anyone hoping to place well in international competitions.

World Cup Climbing Comes to Gyms

But what about every day gym climbers? The evolution of competition climbing has begun to trickle into gyms around the country. Routesetters are hungry for something new and different, and climbers themselves are becoming familiar with more creative and dynamic movement. “If you are an outdoor climber and all you want to do is come to a gym to get fit, well, every gym offers that,” said LoCrasto. “We want to create something that isn’t in every climbing gym.” Some gyms are experimenting with different setting styles in different areas of their gyms to provide customers with options. Movement RiNo, outside Denver, is one such gym. There is a traverse wall, a training area, and boulders with more basic routesetting that allow for top-outs. Along the perimeter is the World Cup Wall. “In this area we have the opportunity to set problems in a style that is more competition-oriented. Most of the time when people hear that, they’re like, ‘Oh so there is only really hard competition problems,’ but that’s not what we’ve done. We set moves that are a little more complex, a little more technical, and we have done so through the entire difficulty range, all the way from beginner to elite World Cup level competitor,” says Ryan Sewell, the head route setter for Movement Gyms. Ryan thinks having these different styles available in one space allows climbers visiting his gym to have a richer experience. “A climber on the traverse wall can look over and see somebody else trying a really cool competition-style coordination jump and walk over there and try that with them. People are more likely to have that chance encounter, and go try something that maybe they otherwise wouldn’t.”

Premium Holds Brings European Volumes to the US

The rise in popularity of volumes has revealed a weakness in the American market: there is a lack of fiberglass brands in the United States. The owners of Summit Gyms in the Dallas-Forth Worth area realized there was room for this market at a route-setting workshop with Simon Margon, a Slovenian IFSC route setter who also owns the hold company 360. “The holds he brought to us were so different from anything in the US market, it was shocking that these weren’t more commonplace,” LoCrasto said. “I’ve been route-setting for about 15 years, and it was evident that there was something different and special about these holds.” Without much knowledge about distribution or shipping logistics, LoCrasto and his business partners began importing and selling holds from 360. After about six months, several other European companies that wanted to break into the US market reached out to them. Now Premium Holds distributes for four different hold companies, each of which offers something different: 360 produces polyurethane and fiberglass holds, including very large fiberglass volumes; Simpl makes dual tex wood volumes; Squadra produces polyurethane and fiberglass holds and wood volumes; and Cheeta makes wood volumes plus holds from polyurethane and fiberglass, and nearly every one of Cheeta’s shapes features dual tex. Dual tex is a surface that has two different textures, rough in places and smooth and slippery others, so that foot holds are trickier and thumb catches nonexistent. The shapers from each of these hold companies are experienced IFSC route setters— Margon owns and shapes for 360 and Simpl, Reini Fichtinger owns and shapes for Squadra, and the legendary Laurent Laporte, who is the longest tenured IFSC setter, owns and shapes for Cheeta. These setters have developed their shapes out of necessity or to achieve a desired result when outfitting for a competition. “I had all these setting ideas and I realized that the holds I needed didn’t exist. So I made them,” said Margon of his signature large volumes. This results in a different style than the commercial shapes available in the US. In general, American companies make predominantly incut holds, whereas European companies make more rounded shapes with less incut. By bringing holds that foster a different style of climbing to American gyms, American climbers are being exposed to new and exciting movement. “At the end of the day, climbing is fun. Setting routes with volumes offers something new and fun to do,” LoCrasto notes. “You don’t come into a gym and just see fruity pebbles on the wall anymore.”
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Oregon Bouldering Gym At Stake

Outside the Tigard Circuit. Photo: KPTV

The Circuit Bouldering Gym in Tigard may be at stake because of a transportation project, with a proposed Light Rail line that could run right through its building according to KPTV.

The alternative route TriMet proposed at the beginning of the year puts The Circuit in the crosshairs of construction.

“Literally they would take our business and tear it down to make way for the rail,” said Danny Burkhead, the general manager of The Circuit.

The Circuit operates three bouldering gyms in the Portland, Oregon metro area and the people at The Circuit in Tigard are fearful they’ll lose all the hard work that’s been put into the location, including the community they’ve built.

TriMet says affected business owners would be paired with a relocation specialist, helping them to find what’s on the market and what would fit their needs. They’d also cover moving expenses, according to Jennifer Koozer, TriMet’s community affairs manager.

The entire MAX line will be finalized in May, according to TriMet, but construction might not even start for four more years.

RGP: Software Powering the Industry

The Software for Climbing Gyms

For the past 10 years, hundreds of climbing gyms around the world have relied on Rock Gym Pro’s member management software to run their business. In fact, over 90% of all climbing facilities use our software to run their daily operations with over 100,000 check-ins – each day!  We’re proud to be an integral part of such an amazing industry and community. We truly love what we do. As the industry leader, we’re fortunate to be able to interact with hundreds of gyms on a monthly basis – from small facilities to big multigym operations. And while each gym’s operational processes are unique, over the years we’ve found that most successful climbing facilities can agree that there are certain things their member management software needs to do. We wanted to share these insights with you below: We also wanted to introduce ourselves to those new to the climbing gym business. Although we refer to ourselves as the “industry leader”, we’re really just a small group of climbing enthusiasts in Bend, Oregon, passionate about the community we serve and passionate about seeing our customers succeed.

Rock Gym Pro: Who We Are

Top 10 Things Successful Gyms Need From Their Management Software

  1. Robust Waiver/Document Management The signing of waivers and the secure storage of legal documents are critical components to running a climbing business. Make sure whoever built your waiver solution knows what they’re doing.RGP provides…both a free, seamlessly integrated Smartwaiver solution as well as an integrated RGP document system. Smartwaiver is the leading digital waiver service (and sister company of RGP) trusted by thousands of organizations and has been legally tested for 7+ years with over 50+ million legal, digital documents signed.  RGP + Smartwaiver’s integrated document system can seamlessly handle all of your liability waivers, orientation forms, belay checks, and even membership contracts.
  2. Comprehensive Member Management Features Gyms need a powerful, flexible and automated system to administer the often complicated tasks of member management.  It’s not enough to simply bill your members each month – your staff need the right tools to deliver excellent customer service to your members.RGP provides…everything a climbing facility needs to manage members, including: handling of the member payment lifecycle, failed payment notification, freeze/thaw options, kiosk and online membership sales, integrated membership contracts, member portals that give members the ability to self manage their own membership and iOS/Android app for member check-ins.
  3. Day User Management A large part of a gym’s revenue comes from drop-in, day users. Members are important – but so are day users! You need a flexible system that can handle your day user workflows just as well as it handles member management workflows.RGP provides…an easy to use set of tools for quickly getting your day users in the gym efficiently, including the integrated waiver.document system and POS functions that do not require clumsy and sluggish logins from your day users.
  4. Staff Accountability There’s a lot going on at your gym all the time. When multiple employees are performing multiple actions in the software – usually while sharing workstations, you need to know who did what and when.RGP provides…staff PINS which can be assigned to each staff member using RGP. If there’s ever an issue you want to investigate, the Admin can create an audit log that shows things like; which items in RGP were deleted, when the cash drawer was opened, when payments were voided and who performed the action.   Every staff action is tracked, and even if staff share a workstation at a busy front desk, individual tasks will be logged under their name.
  5. Easy Ways to Manage Classes, Groups, and Events It can get overwhelming trying to keep track of all of the classes, groups and events like birthday parties that are offered at your gym. You need a way to easily keep track of it all.RGP provides…a comprehensive calendar and booking system that allows you to build complex recurring schedules and prices, assign staff and resources to specific events, sell online gift cards, create and manage individual events and allow customers to book it all online with just a few clicks.
  6. Retail Capabilities If you’re selling retail items at your facility, you need a POS system that is quick, reliable and scalable.RGP provides…a powerful POS and inventory management system that gyms of any size can use – from a small retail shop to the largest retail climbing gym environments.
  7. Reporting and Accounting It’s your gym – you need to know what’s going on with the numbers.RGP provides… hundreds of reports/charts and powerful customer queries for segmenting your customers. On the accounting side, RGP is seamlessly integrated with both QuickBooks Online and QuickBooks Desktop making it super simple to get the books in order.
  8. Easy Online Sales You need to keep the online booking and sales process easy for your customers – eliminating any unnecessary barriers. Your customers shouldn’t have to leave your website to book online.RGP provides…the ability for your customers to book classes and purchase memberships without having to create an online account and without having to leave your website. Keeping it simple and keeping it all within your brand.
  9. Deployment Options Each climbing facility is unique. You need software that is flexible enough to accommodate your specific needs.RGP provides…TWO deployment options. You can use either the installed version of RGP OR RGP Cloud. With RGP Cloud you get the speed of installed software with the convenience of accessing your data and files in the cloud.
  10. Dedicated and Knowledgeable Staff You need people on your side that know what they’re talking about – not just about software, but about any operational challenges you’ll face at your gym too. You want people who can relate to what your employees face every day.RGP provides…support from experienced folks. Everyone at RGP that supports the product has either owned or worked in a climbing gym. We actually get it!
Rock Gym Pro has come a long way since it was first developed. Through the years, we’ve continually kept our pulse on the shifting needs of our customers and we bust our butts to make sure those needs are met. Just about every feature we’ve built into RGP was a direct result of our customers’ feedback. We plan to continue developing new solutions that will help climbing facilities succeed well into the future. If you’re interested in learning more, we’d love to chat. Shoot us an email or give us a call: 541.316.5747 www.rockgympro.com  
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.