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    Entre Prises USA Finds A New Leader

    Steve Matous, New CEO of Entre-Prises Climbing Walls
    Steve Matous, New CEO of Entre Prises Climbing Walls

    By Alex Beld
    The long-time climbing wall builder, Entre Prises Climbing Walls, better known as EP, has been through some rough times over the last few years. Though they’ve recently built some high profile walls — at gyms like Movement Climbing in Colorado, Mesa Rim’s new facility in San Diego and USA Climbing’s competition bouldering wall — the company has struggled to keep up with their competition. Steve Matous hopes to change all that.

    Matous stepped into the role of CEO at Entre Prises USA in June of this year, a position that has technically been empty for two years while EP has suffered through a number of leadership changes.

    This role had previously been filled by Antoine Richard, who was CEO of Entre Prises International in France, and acted as CEO for EP USA from 2010-2012. Jason Stollenwerk was then promoted from within to become EP USA’s Managing Director. He served in that role until 2015, when he moved on to become Vice President of Sales and Marketing (he has since left the company). Dave Slavensky was subsequently hired to take over as the General Manager of EP USA and remained in the position for about a year; there was about a four-month gap between Slavensky leaving and Matous taking the reins.

    The EP-built Ascent Studio in Fort Collins.
    The EP-built Ascent Studio in Fort Collins.

    Taking on the role was not something Matous had sought out. “I was recruited,” Matous said. “I had no idea it was even available,” adding he isn’t sure why there have been three leaders of the company in just a few years.

    Over at EP International, Richard also left the company just as the search for EP USA’s new leader began. Richard is now the President and founder of Hapik, a “funclimbing” company based in Grenoble, France. Hapik is a partner of Clip ‘n Climb, of which Entre Prises International has a 50 percent stake. After Richard’s departure, Eric Surdej took over at EP International and managed the recruitment for EP USA’s new leadership.

    Surdej hired a headhunter to look for promising candidates from a variety of backgrounds, particularly those with experience in either the climbing or amusement industries. While EP remains focused on indoor climbing, the Clip ‘n Climb side of the company was expanding quickly and the company’s leadership thought it was necessary to look at candidates with either background to determine what would work better for the company’s current direction.

    The Climber and The Businessman

    “We needed someone with that climbing background,” said Todd Chester, Sales and Marketing Director for EP USA, about opting for Matous. “In my opinion that’s the best fit for the company.”

    Having the right climbing credentials were an easy checkbox for Matous. “I’ve been in the climbing industry for a very long time,” Matous said.

    He started out as a skier, and like many people from his era, he learned to climb outdoors and has at times been paid to climb. He has also been an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine guide for more than 25 years, spending time in Chamonix, the Canadian Rockies and Nepal, which has given him and an intimate knowledge of the world of hardcore climbers.

    Matous offers a similar level of expertise in the business world, having spent the last four years as the Executive Director for Outward Bound USA. His resume also boasts Interim CFO and Membership Director at the American Alpine Club and COO of LC Vision Inc., a high tech R&D Company.

    The three letter business titles didn’t come right away. Matous started out teaching and guiding, eventually founding his own adventure travel company, Great Escapes USA, Inc. It provided staff, equipment and logistics, and in-country operations for North American adventure travel companies in Nepal, Tibet and India.

    After nine years of running his own business he moved into the non-profit industry spending about five years at Outdoor Alliance and another five at Access Fund. Though the focus has generally been on mountaineering and climbing, his path to Entre Prises has been diverse.

    Global Challenges

    A global outlook and a diverse set of business skills will be crucial for Matous to be successful in his new role at EP USA. Slavensky, his predecessor to the role, advised that for the company to succeed both the US and International branches need to be aligned on their business strategies.

    “I believe that the reason for the turnover [at EP USA] is that our ownership from France did not understand the dynamics of the US market and felt that we were not running the business to achieve the results they wanted,” Slavensky said.

    Slavensky said Matous’ biggest challenge will be crafting a business model that can overcome the challenges he faced.

    During Slavensky’s tenure competition from the Bulgarian-based climbing wall company Walltopia proved the most challenging aspect of his job. Slavnsky argued that using Bulgarian workers to design, fabricate and even install Walltopia’s climbing walls allowed them to provide their products at a cheaper price. Walltopia has also been more effective at marketing their product and providing new market innovations; in 2007 they were the first company to produce the flat, panelized-style of climbing walls that have now come to dominate the US market.

    Slavensky said Walltopia outpaced EP about 2-1 in the U.S. commercial market during the years between Richard leaving and Matous taking the helm. Despite this slide, Slavensky said the leadership in France was not as aware of the difficult competition because Walltopia hasn’t been as effective at breaking into the European market. After a year of long hours Slavensky left in what he said was a mutual parting.

    Though he left the company, Slavensky still backs up the EP brand, saying their walls are of a slightly higher quality than the competition.

    Matous believes his new role requires looking into the future, strategizing and laying the groundwork for the years to come. As CEO, Matous will take the reins for the North American portion of the company, which accounts for 25-30 percent of EP sales.

    Alaska Rock Gym saw a major upgrade with their new EP-built gym.
    Alaska Rock Gym saw a major upgrade with their new EP-built gym.

    History of The North American Branch

    EP USA is a division of EP International, which was founded in France in 1985. The USA division was added to the brand in 1988 after EP’s founder, Francois Savigny, visited Bend, Oregon to climb at Smith Rock. He and a number of prominent American climbers, including Eric Meade, teamed up and EP USA was born.

    Meade led and owned EP USA as the business boomed through the 1990s and early 2000’s. EP USA initially found success with university climbing gyms and recreation centers, and eventually found a foothold with commercial climbing gyms. Then in 2008 he sold his stake in the company to EP International, but continued to act as CEO until 2010. During his nearly 16 years as CEO, Meade grew the company to more than 70 employees strong and increased annual revenues to about $7 million. By the time he sold the company, both he and his in-house investment partners earned themselves a 3,000 percent return on their initial investment.

    EP International is now owned by a French group called ABEO. The group focuses on indoor climbing, gymnastics equipment, team sports like basketball, and locker room and bathrooms. They can fully outfit a gym for basketball or even wrestling and provide full layouts for locker rooms. Each of the brands under ABEO is given autonomy by being allowed to design, produce, market and install their own products.

    The Longview

    Though Matous’ focus is on the future of EP USA, it’s obvious he has delved into the past to help him understand where he wants to take things.

    Matous said when he first came to the industry Entre Prises was a widely known brand, but now it does not have the same name recognition. For example, while at the Access Fund’s 25th anniversary event Matous told others in attendance about his new position at EP USA. Some congratualted him on the new role, but others had to ask him what Entre Prises was — there was about a 50/50 split between the 100 in attendance he knew.

    “This is a room full of hardcore climbers,” Matous lamented.

    His goal for the future in its most general terms is to turn Entre Prises back into a household name for the climbing industry by getting the brand in front of the community.

    “We haven’t done as good a job of letting people know what we’ve done,” Matous said. He added that it’s important to highlight the quality of the product and the innovations Entre Prises has been a leader in developing, but it’s also important to share more basic things like services. The wall company also manufactures holds and offers on-site inspections and maintenance service for the walls they’ve installed.

    One big opportunity ahead for Entre Prises to gain exposure within the climbing industry and beyond is the 2020 Olympics, when climbing will be included as a sport for the first time. For many viewers this will likely be the first opportunity for them to see a climbing competition on TV. As a partner with the International Federation of Sport Climbing, it is possible that these viewers will be watching athletes from around the world competing on an Entre Prises climbing wall.

    “We know that our owners are interested in the Olympics,” Matous said. “We’re going to be as supportive as we can.”

    New Gym Planned for Tulsa

    Rendering of the new Climb Tulsa.
    Rendering of the new Climb Tulsa.

    Tulsa, Oklahoma local entrepreneur and climbing enthusiast Jason Burks knows firsthand that “climbing makes people better – physically, mentally and spiritually.” He started rock climbing five years ago and in January of this year bought the New Heights Rock Gym, Tulsa’s only commercial climbing facility.

    Why I Climb – Jason Burks

    Hey Tulsa, we are continuing our "Why I Climb" series with our owner Jason Burks and some exciting information about our name change to Climb Tulsa and our huge new Facility that will be opening next year. In the meantime come climb at New Heights! All November we are having first timer specials and training to help Tulsa learn how to climb. New Heights Gym is Located at 11th and 169, call us 918-439-4400.

    Posted by New Heights Rock Climbing Gym on Thursday, November 3, 2016

    Business took off and he soon realized he needed to expand. Burk also knew that New Heights, which opened in 1997, needed more than a few more walls and some paint. That’s why he’s is thrilled to announce plans to build a new, 17,000 square foot climbing facility and give it a new name, Climb Tulsa.

    Burks adds that the Mayor-Elect G.T. Bynum helped motivate him to make this project a reality when he told him “Great cities in the US have something for everybody,” and Burks knew he wanted to help Tulsa be a “Great City” with this top-notch climbing facility.

    Groundbreaking is set for early December with plans to open October of 2017.

    Dark Horse Signs Broadcast Deal

    MetroRock Climbing Centers announced last week that it has signed a long-term contract with FloSports allowing the company’s FloClimbing network to publicize the Dark Horse Bouldering Series events before, during, and after each event. FloClimbing coverage will begin with Dark Horse Season 8 Round 3, taking place on December 17, 2016 in Everett, MA.

    Dark Horse Season 8 Round 1 Highlights from Dark Horse Bouldering Series on Vimeo.

    FloSports is a direct-to-consumer, subscription-based sports media company based in Austin, Texas. The company recently launched FloClimbing, its rock climbing focused network, and has already begun to build a following within the climbing community with coverage of prominent climbing athletes and events.

    “We’re excited to partner with FloSports to get the excitement of Dark Horse events out into the climbing community, right as the action is happening,” said Pat Enright, owner of the MetroRock Climbing Centers, which hosts the Dark Horse Series. “Some of the world’s greatest climbers compete for the title of the Dark Horse. Combining this with the expert route setting that goes into preparing for each competition, we know that the FloClimbing live broadcasts will be exciting to climbers of all abilities and climbing fans.”

    The Dark Horse Season 8 Round 3 event will be the first climbing competition to be live streamed by FloClimbing, though the network website already features extensive coverage of recent climbing competitions, other events, and prominent athletes.

    “The Dark Horse Series is ideal for FloClimbing to bring to our viewers live because they are truly elite events. In streaming this series, we know that we’ll be offering the kind of coverage that climbing fans have craved, but have not had access to in the past,” said Bryan Raffterty, senior editor at FloClimbing.

    “I’ve always had the vision to create competitive climbing’s very own dedicated channel—24/7 extensive coverage 365 days per year,” says Jordan Shipman, senior rights acquisitions and subscription manager of FloClimbing. “Dark Horse Series is one of the most energetic, high-octane competitive events in the country. I can’t think of a better partnership to kick this off.”

    Mesa Rim Reno Breaks Ground

    Rendering of the new Mesa Rim Reno.
    Rendering of the new Mesa Rim Reno.

    From Press Release:
    Reno-Tahoe residents will soon have a new and extraordinary place to get fit and have fun. Mesa Rim Climbing & Fitness Center, which operates three indoor climbing facilities in Southern California, held a groundbreaking ceremony for their new 24,000 square foot Reno location on November 2nd. The 5-story building being constructed on Harvard Way, near downtown Reno, is expected to open doors in the summer of 2017.

    Mesa Rim is reinventing the idea of a fitness center by bringing together a unique and vibrant combination of climbing, traditional fitness, and social spaces all under one roof. The custom designed facility will feature 30 to 50 foot tall indoor climbing walls designed for beginners and expert climbers alike, with lead climbing, top rope climbing and a large bouldering area. In addition to the diverse climbing terrain, Mesa Rim will feature a dedicated studio-quality yoga studio, a full service fitness area with weights and cardio equipment, spa quality locker rooms, and a sauna. The facility also boasts a spacious lounge and communal workspace that opens to an outdoor deck with views of Mt. Rose.

    Mesa Rim owners, investors and construction team at the site.  Photo: Mesa Rim
    Mesa Rim owners, investors and construction team at the site. Photo: Mesa Rim

    The Mesa Rim team, in conjunction with local investors, has been steadily working on this project for almost two years and is pleased to bring Mesa Rim’s unique brand of professionally operated climbing and fitness centers to the climbers and outdoor enthusiasts of Reno. “For years the rock climbers of Reno have been hoping for a facility of this size and quality,” said Ian Mcintosh, President of Mesa Rim. “We couldn’t be more happy to be opening a world class indoor climbing facility in this town, but more importantly we are excited to create a community space that brings friends and family together and inspires individuals to challenge themselves both mentally and physically.”

    Popping The Top

    Inside look at a roof lift. Photo: Rooflifters
    Inside look at a roof lift. Photo: Rooflifters

    By Connor Mills

    Climbing gyms can give visitors that nervous feeling in the pit of their stomach, and the sight of a modern day climbing gym’s wall can be adrenaline inducing. For some of us, this fear and excitement is quickly replaced by the respect for the architectural achievement of the very building we’re standing in. It’s easy to appreciate these modern marvels of space and capacity when you consider the amount of activity harbored within their confines. As the acknowledgment settles, a new thought emerges – how did these buildings become so big?

    Enter Rooflifters, an American company who will literally raise the roof of a building. In the early nineties, Rooflifters started as a collection of general contractors who found a majority of their work within the industrial and retail construction sectors. Their business model, however, slowly changed as an emerging niche market gained traction. CEO Marty Shiff and his team found themselves with a new business model providing adequate ceiling height for a pioneering generation of entrepreneurs looking to build rock walls, trampoline parks and fitness gyms.

    Over time, climbing gyms became a substantial revenue source for Shiff’s company. Originally, a ceiling height of just twenty-five to thirty feet was adequate to house the average climbing gym. As with any developing market, climbing gyms sought to be bigger and better than their competition. Today, the ideal height for a new project is often forty-five feet. Future gym owners also are looking at populated urban areas with a favorable demographic in their target market. Unfortunately, buildings in these desirable locations are ill-suited for climbing gyms due to their low ceiling height.

    “For many gym owners, the ideal location for a climbing gym is within the city center,” said Shiff. “But the issue with these buildings is they were originally built for retail purposes with a ceiling height averaging just fourteen to sixteen feet.”

    A recent climbing gym roof lift. Photo: Rooflifters.
    A recent climbing gym roof lift. Photo: Rooflifters.

    Climbing gym owners are then left with two options, construct a new building or “popping the top” on an existing structure.

    The roof-raising process begins when a gym operator approaches Rooflifters with a specific building in mind for their proposed climbing gym. Usually, they will have found a great location that lacks the necessary ceiling space for a modern climbing wall. At this point, Shiff and his team develop a realistic assessment of the cost to modify the structure into a climbing gym. This can be done with as little as ten images and a short survey of the details and history of the structure.

    Once Shiff and his team are officially hired to alter a building’s roof, Rooflifters’ equipment and personnel are brought to the individual job site. The roof of the existing structure is separated from the building and lifted on large hydraulic stilts. Once raised to the ideal height, the team reconstructs and reinforces the roof’s internal membrane. Walls are then added to house the newly created headspace. Finally, technical aspects including air conditioning, sprinklers and lighting are handled by sub-contracted workers who are also challenged to bring their services to new heights.

    When to Pop

    Gym owners go through the trouble of drastically modifying their desired buildings primarily to gain a competitive advantage. But there’s a financial advantage as well. In most cases, lifting the roof of an existing building can be one-third to half the price of building a completely new structure. Additionally, the speed to market of raising an existing roof is quicker than building a new structure. A newly built climbing gym can take up to a year and a half to complete while, according to Shiff, “The time span to raise the roof of an existing building takes an average of just six weeks.”

    Typically, raising the roof of an existing structure is considered a renovation by the municipal Building Department. Climbing gym owners prefer this method because the existing structure has been grandfathered into the various safety codes it received when built. Permits are still required for renovations but come at a lower cost than building an entirely new structure.

    While searching the Los Angeles market for a suitable building in which to create a new climbing gym, Jeffery Bowling, a senior manager of Touchstone Climbing, found that the number of forty to fifty-foot buildings was very limited. Bowling also understood the potentially high price tag of building a completely new structure. In order to house their new Cliffs of Id climbing facility, Bowling chose to raise the roof of a former warehouse in Culver City, CA. The new facility, which features 45-foot-high rope climbing walls — Touchstone’s highest in LA – opened in August of 2016.

    Despite these clear advantages, raising the roof on an existing building is not always the best solution. While searching for a location for a New York facility, Brooklyn Boulders contacted Rooflifters for an estimate on a potential roof raise. A project within their namesake Brooklyn location called for an additional three thousand square feet. After an initial analysis, Shiff concluded it would make more sense for BKB to build an entirely new structure.

    Another solution for dealing with short buildings is to simply build a taller section onto an existing building. Onsight Rock Gym in Knoxville, TN did just that last year with their new building.

    The Power of Big

    The market for lifting building roofs exists in many industries, from large wholesale companies, refrigeration, manufacturing, and schools. Businesses considering a roof raise, especially climbing gyms that rely on adequate clear height for their climbing walls, should seek companies who specialize in the craft. Completing a project of this magnitude is no easy task, which is evident in the many companies who provide the service around the nation.

    Within the last decade, climbing gym’s have successfully opened in many markets across the nation. This is a testament to the power of the climbing industry and its ability to stay competitive among the many avenues of exercise for fitness fanatics. The challenge for Shiff and his team is to show climbing gym owners how they can be successful with an unorthodox approach to creating their visionary gym. Raising a building’s entire roof can save time and money on a business’s investment.

    As the quality of the modern day climbing gyms evolve, it is imperative for the gym staff to operate a competitive and creative facility. Without a high enough roof, climbing facilities are mostly limited to bouldering-height walls and can render themselves undesirable to the large demographic of climbers who enjoy tying into a harness. Jeff Bowling described the trade-off best: “For many locations, the option is to either raise the roof or have a bouldering only gym.”

    Connor Mills is an avid climber and a freelance writer from San Diego. This is his first article for CBJ.

    Thieves Make Off with E9 From UK Gym

    David Murray climbing instructor at Climb, Byker the center was broken into and had thousands of pounds worth of clothing stolen. Photo: Chronicle Live
    David Murray climbing instructor at Climb, Byker the center was broken into and had thousands of pounds worth of clothing stolen. Photo: Chronicle Live

    Apparently the Italian climbing brand, E9 is so hot right now that people are going to extreme lengths to get their hands on it. Climb Newcastle, a gym along the north eastern coast of England was recently raided by burglars who made off with the specialist climbing clothing valued at thousands of pounds as well as cash, according to Chronical Live.

    The thieves may find it difficult to off load the cloths as Climb Newcastle is the only place in the North East to stock the brand.

    Company director Chris Graham said on behalf of the company: “The clothing is very distinctive, with bright colours and big E9 logos.

    “We are the only stockist in Tyne and Wear and, in the case of the jackets in particular, there are only a handful in the country.”

    He added: “Not only are we devastated but our customers will be disappointed that they cannot kit themselves out in the new range of clothing.”

    The Big and The Beautiful

    A proposed rendering for the worlds tallest indoor climbing wall.
    A proposed rendering for the worlds tallest indoor climbing wall.

    The worlds tallest indoor climbing wall is being developed on Yas Island, in Abu Dhabi. According to a press release, the project which is called CLYMB, will feature “walls [that] offer a challenge to beginner, intermediate and expert climbers as they will have the chance to scale 4 walls of varying difficulty. The tallest expert-level wall will tower 43 meters (141 feet) above the ground.”

    In Norway, the Norwegian Mountaineering Association open their beatiful new vistitor center.

    The new Norwegian Mountaineering Center.  Photo: Arch Daily.
    The new Norwegian Mountaineering Center. Photo: Arch Daily.

    The architecture firm, Reiulf Ramstad designed the building to be, “anchored in an innovative interpretation of nature’s fantastic dimensions and the dramatic experience of mountaineering.”

    The center contains a climbing hall, auditorium, movie theater, restaurant, museum shop, and a mountaineering library. The climbing area features a 21 meters tall (69 feet) lead and top rope climbing wall, bouldering area and a, “bouldering cave where the little ones can romp.”

    More pictures can be found at Arch Daily.

    Wide World of Chalk

    chalk

    By Rylan Marshall

    Ever since John Gill, borrowing a tactic employed by gymnasts and powerlifters, first coated his hands with a now-ubiquitous white powder before attempting a boulder problem, chalk has been a critical component in nearly every climber’s toolkit. Along with sticky rubber shoes, it is the one thing all climbers have in common. Boulderer, bolt clipper, tradster and gym rat; all take a dip of chalk before setting out on whatever escapade lay before them. It is so common and seemingly innocuous that few climbers ever take a moment to consider where it came from, what it is, or how it ever ended up in their chalk bag and on their hands.

    Origin

    In some ways, chalk is the fossil fuel of the climbing industry. Formed millennia ago, what we think of as climbing chalk started out as sea shells and sand. Left to sit at the bottom of ancient oceans, these materials eventually became calcium magnesium carbonate, or CaMg(CO3)2, better known as the mineral dolomite.

    A close relative of limestone, dolomite is found wherever there used to be oceans or deep basins. Like the petroleum products that power our modern world, dolomite deposits have to be mined from the earth before they can be processed and turned into, among other things, chalk.

    Process

    Dolomite is mined around the world, though it is primarily sourced in Southeast Asia, where the abundance of the mineral coupled with low wages and loose safety regulations make for a cheaper product. Getting the mineral out of the ground and processing the raw materials is an involved industrial process, and as such the facilities that perform these operations are secretive about their proprietary methods. In actuality, very little is known about these procedures, even by the companies that sell the final product.

    Once the dolomite has been extracted and processed, it is sold to consumers and other companies in bulk amounts, primarily through the e-commerce website Alibaba. Dubbed the world’s biggest online commerce company by the Wall Street Journal, Alibaba is the Chinese Amazon, though it is even larger in scope and reach than Amazon. For most companies that sell climbing chalk, this is the end of the road, as the same companies that mine and process the chalk also package and ship it from their factories, eliminating the need for climbing companies to have their own packaging or distribution facilities.

    Kevin Brown, co-owner and founder of Friction Labs, sheds some light on the process. “You yourself could start a chalk company tomorrow and do it the same way everyone else in the industry does. You contact these companies on alibaba.com, you buy the chalk, you send them a label, they print it and wrap a block in it and drop-ship it to your accounts around the world.”

    While it may not be as easy as Brown suggests, the fact remains that very few climbing companies have anything to do with making the chalk they sell outside of marketing it.

    Quality

    Despite its popularity and necessity to the climbing world, chalk is still an underrepresented product category. There are no standard practices or industry regulations that monitor the quality of chalk or track its sales. Some suppliers may be more consistent than others, but the lack of regulation throughout the entire process means each batch can be a shot in the dark. Not surprisingly, quality control is predictably inconsistent as it is up to individual brands to select their supplier and test the chalk themselves.

    “The difference between chalk companies is who they get their chalk from,” Brown says, adding that no chalk is 100% magnesium carbonate. Brown went on to say, “There’s always filler present, and the only real way to analyze chalk is with an X-ray florescence test, which shows all the elements present in a given compound and requires additional tests and a PhD to interpret all the data.” Needless to say, going that route is an expensive endeavor, one that most companies eschew in place of a less scientific approach.

    Brooke Sandahl of Metolius Climbing explains their approach in different terms. After gathering samples from many different suppliers, Sandahl tests the various samples, looking for the magical combination of grain size and moisture content that optimizes the uptake of oil and sweat in skin. This process is done the old fashioned way, by chalking up and getting on the rock. “Over time you develop a feel for it, like wine tasting,” he adds.

    Craft Chalk

    Like the craft beers and micro breweries that are so popular these days, climbing chalk is in the midst of a craft craze. Metolius was the first brand to formulate chalk custom made for rock climbing with its venerable line of Super Chalk, which first hit the scene in the early 90s and has remained relatively unchanged since. In recent years Friction Labs has burst onto the scene as the only company that specializes exclusively in chalk, and newcomers like Patxi Usobiaga’s PUC Chalk are showing up overseas.

    While most brands market their chalk as being unique or more pure than others, few actually have a proprietary process that they apply to their chalk to differentiate it from the rest. Super Chalk is well known for its ‘drying agent,’ which is a totally inert substance that is also used by McDonalds to thicken milkshakes. It is safe to eat, though you wouldn’t want to inhale any, and is applied to their bulk chalk at a company-owned facility in China. The details of that process and the drying agent itself are trade secrets, as are the methods Friction Labs uses to concentrate the magnesium carbonate and refine the texture of the chalk they buy from the same overseas distributors.

    For some climbers chalk is chalk, and the cheaper and more easily acquired the better. For the connoisseurs, however, price and accessibility take a backseat to feel and friction. “Most domestic chalks are pretty good and don’t hinder performance,” Sandahl says. However, if all beer tasted the same there wouldn’t be breweries springing up left and right, and the same is true for chalk.

    Sales

    The realm of climbing chalk is shrouded in mystery, from the details on how it’s extracted from the earth to what is added to it or how it is refined, and it is no surprise that sales data is similarly hard to come by.

    Chalk is not tracked as a product category, and most retailers throw it in with other climbing accessories like athletic tape and skin care products. The companies that sell chalk are equally tight-lipped about their sales data as they are about their unique products. Sandahl gives a general impression of the numbers, though, indicating they are higher than you might suspect. “It’s fairly astounding how much chalk we sell,” he says, “and industry-wide I would say it’s a multi-million dollar category.” When asked how much chalk Friction Labs moves, Brown would only reply by saying they have perhaps 3-5% of the market share, and that they do not sell nearly as much chalk as the other brands.

    Though data may be difficult to unearth, it is obvious that chalk is an important and lucrative sale item. “Part of the allure of selling chalk was it’s a fairly simple product and it seemed like a no-brainer to add to the Metolius product line,” Sandahl explains. “It’s like food or toilet paper in that you are continually going through it.”

    While most brands sell chalk as an additional income source to their primary products, Friction Labs only sells chalk. Their approach is to offer product directly to the retailer as a means of boosting the retailers’ own profit. Brown lays out the details of their approach, stating that “gyms need to find a way to increase the revenue per member.” A former gym owner himself, he goes on to say “it’s really expensive to start and maintain a climbing gym, and your whole audience that’s there is using chalk. You have a captive audience and not selling chalk or making it an easy process is a missed opportunity.”

    Future

    Climbing shoes have eclipsed the $200 mark and gym day passes are more expensive than ever. The industry is expanding and yet, for the most part, chalk is chalk. While many companies, such as SoiLL and Evolv, have expanded their product line to include chalk, few approach chalk as more than a climbing accessory. It is only a matter of time before additional chalk-specific companies arrive on the scene. The only question is, how much money are consumers willing to pay?

    Parallels can be drawn to something like coffee or beer, products with countless iterations and price points and sales that are entirely dependent on the preference of consumers. Some people prefer a $.99 cup of joe from the corner gas station while others choose a $10.00 pour-over from a boutique coffee shop, and if climbers are willing to pay $200 for shoes, $20 for a bag of chalk doesn’t seem unreasonable.