Climbing Insider News Weekly: January 22

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Climbing Insider News Weekly: Jan 22
Photo by Cameron Maier @Bearcam

Just a few thoughts

Nearly one year in, and over 75% of gyms in the latest CWA survey have retained >50% of their membership, and nearly half are now employing 100%+ of their normal full-time staff. Gyms and climbers keep stepping up to keep their staff employed and their facilities as safe as possible, and it’s showing. 2021 starts with high hopes, and we stand a better chance of reaching them when we move forward together.

Content for Climbing Insiders

Cities To Crags (Sam Elias, Gym Climber)
“I wanted to do a trip and tell a story that had a newer, more modern, fairer representation of climbing at the moment. More than anything, I wanted to show up and showcase some of the beautiful people I’ve met in the last few years, their homes, places and communities and, of course, their crags.” – Sam Elias

The Gumby Guru – No Fall Zone (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“Just like most car accidents happen within five minutes or less of a driver’s home, most climbing accidents indoors happen because people get comfy. They’re not complete beginners, they’re people who’ve been climbing for a while.” – Owen Clarke

Wicked Gravity – The Honnold Foundation (Chris Weidner, Daily Camera)
“Even as a 24 year-old rock climber, when all I cared about was climbing, I knew that when I was older I’d want to work on things that matter more, you know? Because at a certain point, climbing is silly.” – Alex Honnold

Climbing Addiction

Video: Why is Rock Climbing so Addicting? (Albert Ok)

Video: Best Climbing Films of 2020 – Top 10 (Andrew MacFarlane)

Video: Reviewing climbing cakes based on the climbing (Jake Davis)

Routesetting + Training

Podcast: Talking w/ Thomas Bonifield (Kasia Pietras, Routesetting Exposed)

As Climbing Participation Grows, Routesetting Must Cater for a Wider Range of Heights and Abilities (Ailsa Graham, UK Climbing)
“People can be put off climbing if the setting isn’t inclusive. If people feel like they have stopped progressing or have been stuck on a grade for too long, or are continually getting frustrated by big moves, they’ll fall out of love with the sport.” – Ailsa Graham

Grip Positions and the Two Forms of Full-Crimp (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing.” – Noah Walker

Video: Staying Motivated for Training – Lockdown Training Discussion (UK Climbing)

 

Gym Manager Beta

As Climbing Participation Grows, Routesetting Must Cater for a Wider Range of Heights and Abilities (Ailsa Graham, UK Climbing)

Member Appreciation In The Time of COVID (Emma Walker, CWA)
“Through it all, Werntz and his team have chosen to put their members’ health and safety first, even when it meant the facilities would bring in less revenue…Boulders also makes a point of letting members know what they’re doing to keep everyone safe.” – Emma Walker

USA Climbing Announces 2020 Community Award Recipients (USAC)
“In a year where we faced immense challenges and our community had to come up with creative ways to keep climbing, we are grateful for the continued commitment of our members to push the sport forward.” – Bruce Mitchell

CBJ Original Articles

CWA December Survey Kicks-Off 2021 with High Hopes
“In continuing their memberships, the ongoing support of climbers to their local gyms has enabled these gyms to continue providing jobs to staff. About 64 percent of gyms responding to the survey question are currently employing at least 80 percent of their normal full-time staff.” – CBJ

New Gym Has an Environmentally Conscious Mission
“There are many reasons why we’ve decided to open a climbing gym but the main ones will always be to give back to the St. George community and to utilize our reach at the gym to contribute to the environmental stewardship and community aspects of the St. George climbing scene.” – Jacquelyn Horton

HWOW 40: Epic Multi-Wall Setup in Illinois