Mexico’s Gym Industry Is Booming – CBJ Podcast with Javier Díaz

CBJ Podcast with Javier Díaz
Graphic done by Climbing Business Journal; all photos courtesy of Javier Díaz
Javier Díaz co-founded a gym, Sierra Elevation, in Mexico with business partner Adrian Hovelman in 2021. Two years later, Sierra Elevation merged with Adamanta, the leading climbing gym chain in Mexico. Packed into that multi-year period was an on-the-ground education for Díaz, as he learned what it took to operate a gym in Mexico, realized the advantages of partnering with a larger entity, and borrowed ideas and concepts from gyms that he had visited in the United States. In this episode of the CBJ podcast, Díaz discusses that backstory, while providing a brief history of Mexico’s gym scene and giving some valuable assessments of Mexico’s climbing gym culture. He also explains why he thinks Mexico’s climbing gym industry is on the cusp of a veritable boom period and about to “go big.” Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Timestamps

00:00 – Intro 02:58 – History of the climbing gym industry in Mexico 11:22 – Díaz’s climbing and business history 17:39 – Finding the right location 20:40 – Sierra Elevation’s business plan 23:59 – Advice received from American gym operators 26:31 – The “climbing, yoga, fitness” model in Mexico 29:27 – Being new to the indoor climbing industry 32:39 – The Adamanta and Sierra Elevation merger 40:19 – Strengths and weaknesses 43:51 – Easing members into the merger 48:56 – Business lessons learned 54:10 – Why is the industry in Latin America about to boom? 56:13 – Díaz’s contact information 57:50 – Closing
OnSite Climbing Walls

Transcript

BURGMAN: Javier Díaz, it’s really nice to have you on the Climbing Business Journal podcast. Thanks for stopping by here.

DÍAZ: Hey John, thanks for the invitation. Well, it’s an honor to be here.

I am really personally excited to have you on the show here. And I also think just for Climbing Business Journal at large, we’re excited to have you because we have had the intention for, ever since really Climbing Business Journal’s inception, ever since the beginning, to cover comprehensively the gym industry of North America, which means Canada, the United States, and Mexico. And yet Mexico has always been, in some ways, the most challenging of those three countries to cover for us because—I think for a number of reasons. We don’t have as much of a pipeline to the industry heads and the industry leaders of Mexico like we do in the U.S. and Canada. And I also think we just don’t have the reportage infrastructure, meaning we don’t have as many connected sources, we don’t have as many writers that we know down in Mexico, and stuff. So, it always takes a little bit more detective work, or it always has, but it’s something we’re hoping to improve on starting now, starting this year, really. It ends up being pretty appropriate, though, because from talking with you prior to this call, it sounds like Mexico is really reaching something of an apex in terms of its gym industry. So, the timing is kind of appropriate. Is that accurate?

Yes, for sure. Well, always we are working hard to bring good experience in climbing here in Mexico. I think it’s the normal process of how things work, like with some time. And now that climbing is getting bigger every time, more people are getting into the sport. And also, it’s more available for everything: interviews, new athletes, and many other things, right?
Javier Díaz climbing outdoors
Díaz (pictured) says the climbing scene around Monterrey, Mexico—“La Ciudad de las Montañas”—originally began with outdoor climbing at nearby crags, before the area’s first gyms were built.

Let’s back up a little bit. If you could just give maybe to the best of, just off the top off your head, give me a little bit of an education on the history of the climbing gym industry and climbing gyms in Mexico. Because, full transparency here, I think most of the listeners to this podcast are from the United States or Canada, and there are some other listeners in Europe, in England and Australia, and some other countries. But so, I think that there might be less of a familiarity with just how the Mexico gym industry evolved. So, I’d be curious to hear where and when it started and how it grew.

Yes, for sure. Well, I think it’s good if I give some context beforehand. And I’m from Monterrey, Mexico, that is in the border with the United States in the north. And my city is called “The City of the Mountains,” or “La Ciudad de las Montañas.” And we have a lot of mountains in the city.  But the main climbing areas are La Huasteca, Potrero Chico and El Salto. Well, climbing started in those areas. I know that Potrero Chico was developed by many Austin climbers in the nineties, I believe. Well, climbers from La Huasteca were more Mexican climbers and also from El Salto. And I know that some of those climbers also opened the first climbing gyms in Mexico. And I don’t remember the first name of the first climbing gym, I believe it’s Gravedad Cero, but I’m not 100% sure. I also know there were like four climbing gyms beforehand. Some of them are Rock Escuela, El Extremo, Rock Art, and Mad Complex, which is still open for business right now.  And, well after that, other climbing gyms opened, like Delta and then Sierra Elevation, which is now Adamanta, and also Pico Norte, which right now has two locations. And I’ll say that’s a bit of the background. Also, something important is that in La Huasteca we had a hero for many of the Mexican climbers. That is Paco Medina, who has many first ascents in La Huasteca. He also has a brother; we call him Repo Medina. And I think those guys and their friends, or their generation, became the climbing development here in Monterrey. Another thing that I wanted to mention is that there is a great documentary called “Sueños de Altura” that talks about all the history in Mexico climbing. And English it’s called something like “Altitude Dreams” or “High Dreams,” but in Spanish it’s “Sueños de Altura.”

And when you’re talking about those original gyms, those first gyms in Mexico, is it parallel to the gyms, the timeline of gyms opening in the United States? Which is to say 1987, 1988, late eighties. Is that around the same time that the gyms opened in Mexico?

No, I believe it’s a little bit in the 21st century. Because I know that the first climbers in Mexico, or at least in the North of Mexico and Monterrey, were in the 1990s and late eighties. So, I don’t know the exact year when we opened, but I bet it’s in the twenties.
CWA Summit Pre-Conferences

And what were these early gyms, what were they like, from either if you visited some of them, or maybe from what you’ve heard? Because that was obviously, it wasn’t that long ago in the scheme of things, but it kind of was in terms of gym development, right? Gyms in the early 2000s were quite different than gyms now. What do you know about just what those gyms offered and what their atmosphere was?

Yeah, I actually wanted to say 2000 last time. But, so, there was a lot of passion in these climbing gyms. Definitely it was more of mom-and-pop type of gyms. I don’t know for sure, but my educated guess would be that they had that space from a friend or relative and they opened a bouldering gym there. There were no high walls or climbing in those gyms, it was mostly bouldering. And there was a lot of passion. Some of the athletes also operated the climbing gyms. And I think that’s one of the challenges, because if you are not there, it’s not open. And something that I can recall is that they were always closed on the weekends, because on the weekends they went out for climbing. And when Adrian and I—Adrian is my business partner, co-founder of Sierra—when Adrian and I started in 2016, we started to think about a climbing gym, it was very strange for us that they were open on weekends, because we know that on weekends we have a lot of new people. So, that was one of the opportunities that we saw. Another thing was that many of them didn’t have parking space, and that was also like a challenge or an opportunity, right?

Yeah. Tell me a little bit more about just your own entry into the climbing gym world. How, when and where you started climbing, and then to that point, started thinking that opening a gym was something that you wanted to do yourself.

Yes. So, I graduated high school in 2011, and I remember that before graduating high school, I wanted to go climbing, because I knew Monterrey had a lot of climbing. And I went to one of these small climbing gyms, and I didn’t get the best service. And it was kind of like nowhere busy, there are no coaches around. So, I just did like a small circuit, and I didn’t know what I was doing. And then I left. And that was it. That was my first experience. And then Adrian’s friend—no, I’m sorry, Adrian’s cousin—took us climbing because he was a good climber, or he’s still a good climber. And he took us climbing to La Huasteca. And after that, it was a really nice experience to us. That was in 2011. But then he didn’t want to take us climbing again because we were new, so he was more like, “No, I’m going to go and climb hard grades.” And then after that, we went to study college in the U.S., first in Austin and then to Dallas. And there was when we started climbing in a commercial gym, called Summit, Summit, Dallas. And I learned about climbing, and someone had took the time to teach us. And they give us the orientation, and it started to make sense. And another important thing is that now when we were coming back to Monterrey for vacations, our friends from Monterrey were asking us to take them climbing. So, the story was, like, we started to think why our friends who are from Monterrey, they don’t teach us climbing if there are so many mountains there. So, we thought that maybe it was because of the lack of knowledge or the lack of commercial climbing gyms. So, we had a “wahoo” moment, me and Adrian, and were like, “Let’s build a climbing gym in Mexico, and let’s go back to build one.”
Díaz giving an orientation
After a subpar first climbing gym experience, a positive one at Summit Dallas led to Díaz—pictured (left) giving an orientation—eventually starting his own gym in Monterrey.

It’s kind of interesting and fortunate for you, your whole experience with climbing started, from the sound of it, with a bad experience. You said you went to the gym; you didn’t get the best service. And I think in the industry, that’s always the big risk, right? Because sometimes with a person or a customer or potential customer, you, as a gym owner, as a business operator, you might only get one shot, right? They’re going to come in, they’re going to try it once, and if they get a bad experience, they’re going to leave and maybe never try climbing again, especially if climbing is significantly out of their comfort zone. And so, it’s kind of lucky that you had a bad experience, but then through the twists and turns of your life found you had other opportunities to climb. And then it really ended up,—you had better experiences, and it ended up changing the course of your life, or your career, certainly.

Yes. And sometimes when we are just starting a business, like a mom-and-pop business, we don’t realize that there are some errors, like some basic errors, like that one of a bad experience that don’t bring us new clients. Because I also remember once that we were back in Mexico around 2016 and we were trying to open the climbing gym. I started to go to these other climbing gyms, like the smaller climbing gyms that were before us. And I remember a story that there was a couple coming, like a man and a girl coming to the climbing gym, and there were many guys without a shirt, and sweating, and it was hot inside. And then I just remember the moment where the girl just whispered something to the guy and they left because she was feeling, like, uncomfortable. So, those small things are sometimes the things that don’t help us to drive a business.

Yeah, I think that’s the ultimate businessperson’s mind, right? Is you’re kind of constantly taking in these little, small moments that you observe as a customer yourself. And you’re kind of internalizing them and thinking, “When I open my own business, these are the things I want to change. These are the things I want to do better. These little things, they might be little things, but a bunch of them, a bunch of these observations, ultimately add up to be a much larger experience when it’s all accumulated.”

Yes, definitely. And that’s also why it took us so long to open a climbing gym. Because the facilities for a good climbing gym, the good facilities, are really hard to find, and sometimes you need to build it yourself. And our first climbing gym, that is Sierra, it started from the ground up. We didn’t find, or it was really hard to find, someone that wanted to build the gym for us or that believed in the vision and the dream. And what already existed was just for bouldering gyms. And many of them didn’t have a commercial front. So, finding a commercial front, finding parking space, having AC—like AC it’s called in the US, right? Those things are the challenge.

I wanted to ask you about that. Because you had told me in our correspondence before this conversation, you had said that once you decided you wanted to open a climbing gym and that became a goal, it took years—I think four years is what you said before you actually found

Yes, it took four years.

Yeah. Before you actually found a facility or landed on an idea, a place for the facility. And you said within those four years, you were visiting a lot of other spaces. And I think your exact phrase was that no space that you visited was the right fit. You had this concept in your mind for your gym, and you visited all these other places and you’re like, “Yeah, it’s just, something about it is not quite right.” And you mentioned the parking, you mentioned the commercial front. I’m wondering if you could explain a little bit more about what made places that you visited not the right fit? Because I think that’s something that a lot of gym owners, new gym owners, when they want to open a gym, they might, first of all, think, “I’ll try to find a space that I can repurpose and turn into a climbing gym, as opposed to starting from the ground up.” So, I think that is a goal for a lot of people, to find a space that can be converted to a climbing gym. You went through that for four years?

Yes. And I think that’s the main challenge. Because we knew that—how big the climbing gyms were in the US. So, we wanted to get the foundation right. Because we knew that, if in, I don’t know, ten years, an American gym or a bigger gym, a competition, came and was in front of us, we wanted to be able to just stand and defend ourselves. And many climbing gyms, they adapt the space to the climbing gym and then they get shorter walls, or they don’t get all the different areas, like the training area for the climbing gym, or they don’t have the right spot for the bathroom, et cetera. And I think that was the main advantage that we had. Because our investors, most of them were friends and family, and, well, we were all scared. We didn’t know we were going to miss our money or lose our money. So, it was really important for them and for us to find the right spot and persuade them to, “This is the right spot, and we are going to be here ten years, and this is going to last. And even if another commercial climbing gym gets in front of us, we are in a good standing ground to have a competition,” you know?
Elevate Climbing Walls

And you wrote a business plan, originally, which I always think is pretty interesting for somebody that’s new to the climbing industry—to write a business plan. Because I think there are some resources out there for learning what goes into a good climbing gym business plan. But at the same time, somebody coming into the industry from the outside might not know—like you said, you might just be kind of observing other gyms and putting those into the business plan. Can you talk a little bit about what you put into your business plan when you started your gym?

Yes, just before that, I had another idea that I wanted to share about that location. Well, we have a customer who owns, not climbing gyms, we have a customer that owns commercial gyms, like weight gyms, and he shared with us something really special. He said, like, “A good location and good management equals cash flow.” So, it sounds very, like, capitalist, but it’s true. If you find a good commercial, if you find a good spot, a good location, and if you operate well the gym, then it should be profitable. And the other idea that you mentioned about the business plan. So, Adrian and I started, just graduated from college, and we both studied business, but we didn’t have any experience in business before. So, we didn’t want to come empty handed, asking for money and millions of pesos. So, we said the least thing that we can do is to have a business plan. So, we started to research and talk to business owners in the U.S. while were still there. We asked them for interviews. We visited every climbing gym in Texas. We went to Houston; went to Dallas; we went to Austin several times. One time, I remember that we slept outside of a hotel in the car, just because we didn’t have money to pay for the hotel. Everyone was really friendly, and they shared their knowledge. We met with Kyle, the founder of Summit Dallas, and he was really kind as well. And I guess that when you do something and people know that you are already halfway done or that you have done some research, they’re willing to help you. But if you arrive empty handed and just say, like, “Hey, I want everything, and can you share everything with me?” Maybe they won’t share as much. But another person that helped us a lot was Kevin Goradia from Crux, just when they opened. And we went to the first days after inauguration, and he sat with us, and we shared a couple of good stories and knowledge.

Can you crystallize a little bit what these people were telling you. When you went to these gyms, particularly gyms in the United States—Houston, Austin—and you’re showing them your business plan, you’re proving to them that you’re serious, and they are imparting to you some wisdom about opening a climbing gym, can you remember what they were telling you? I mean, they were obviously encouraging you to do it.

Yes.

Was there anything else that they were giving you?

Well, I remember that they mentioned to balance climbing with fitness, and balance climbing with yoga. So, then we learned about the model of “climbing, yoga, fitness,” and it clicked really well for us because we knew that we were entering an emerging market, that there was a lot of people who were scared about climbing, and that they needed something else to get persuaded to buy a membership. So, that’s what we did at Sierra. We also, I believe that we have the biggest fitness area of climbing gyms in Mexico, just because were a little bit scared of just doing climbing. And so, we wanted to have a net, a safety net, in case that climbing wasn’t enough at the time. And I think it proved right, because we had to create new climbers. That was a great insight from some of the business mentors in the U.S. Another good idea that they shared with us was, like, how much AC we needed, or the rental shoes—I don’t know how to say it, but the initial purchase of the rental shoes. And also, the frequency to change the routes. All that was really new for us. So, having some insights of that was really good. And just asking if it was a good idea and if they believed it was a good idea for us.
Sierra Elevation building exterior at night
When designing Sierra Elevation (now Adamanta Sierra), Díaz opted for a climbing, yoga and fitness model to cater to a broader customer base. “We wanted to have a safety net,” he says, “in case climbing wasn’t enough at the time.”

So, when you mentioned the “climbing, yoga, fitness” model, the trifecta, which you see at a number of gyms here in the United States and in Canada, and you see those three activities grouped together, I think—in the United States, at least—the core of these gyms, the core membership, for most of them it’s climbers, right? People climb, and maybe they will also take yoga classes, maybe they will also use the weights and do some of the fitness stuff, but the climber is the core base. Obviously, there are exceptions. There are some climbing gyms where people go to just do yoga or they just do fitness, but most of the time it’s the climbers. Was that the case in Mexico, or was it a matter of people that were already into fitness or into yoga, and they go to your gym, and they get introduced to climbing as kind of this other thing that they could try when they’re already doing these yoga and fitness stuff?

That’s a really good question. And we had a little bit of both. It was kind of a mix. So, we have a thing called the “sponge effect,” that when you open a good climbing gym in an area that needed a climbing gym, you have the sponge effect where all the strong climbers come to the good facility and to the new climbing gym. So, we had a little bit of that. And then we also had a market, or just people, that were interested about climbing, but that they weren’t completely sure if they wanted to purchase. But the ones that they saw that we have also the fitness area and the jogger area or the jogger salon, then it was enough for them to say, “Okay, I’m interested. I will give it a try.” And a lot of women were more interested in joining the climbing gym because of yoga. So, that also helped us. And, well, I don’t want to shoot myself in the foot, but you know what they say, that “first bring the girls and the guys follow.” So, it’s an interesting saying, and I believe it works. But also, I say that I wanted to shoot myself on the foot because, well, I respect women, and it’s not, like, the strategy. But once that you have a mix and it’s not just guys, it’s easier for you to create a good atmosphere and a better community, as well. Another thing that we have at Sierra is that we have a good community, and people like that a lot. They show it off a lot. We also have a good restaurant, and I believe people enjoy it.

And when you opened the gym in 2021, and as we have said, there was a long process of searching and building, and you were also so new to it all, and I think that probably helped you maybe in a way. Because I think it’s almost like if you know, I always kind of think if you know too much about something, it almost can be a detriment because it’s easier to talk yourself out of something. Was that the case here? I mean, I think of you just being right out of college, wide-eyed, pretty ambitious. I can’t help but think if you had been in the climbing industry for decades and decades, you might have, I don’t know, just like pumped the brakes a little bit or maybe talked yourself out of it. I just love the aspect of your story, where it’s just kind of a young guy, or a couple young guys, saying, “Yeah, let’s go for it, let’s start our own gym. Why not?”

Yes, definitely. I believe that when you just graduated, you dream a lot, and when you’re in college as well, you’re dreaming a lot. In Mexico, Adrian and I have something that we call—I will say it in Spanish first, and then I’ll translate it—“El síndrome del recién graduado,” which means “the syndrome of the recent graduate.” And that basically means that you arrive at your first job and you are like, “I want all this and I want all that. And also, I want to open my business, and this and that.” And then you go out and you realize that it’s not as easy to raise money, and it’s not as easy to build a gym or any kind of business, and it starts to lower your hopes a little bit. And many, many friends and families, or my own family, parents, just tell us about the risk and “are you sure,” and all this, and it’s hard to just keep going forward. Because we saw what happened in the U.S. and how it grew, we were very convinced of what we wanted, so it was really hard for us to hear them. Because we already lived it and we saw it before, so we knew the potential. And also we were convinced that we didn’t want to spend our time or our life in an office space. We wanted to do something or pursue something that we actually wanted. So, yes, in short, I guess that right now I will definitely think it twice. I will never like to go through four years looking for investment and looking for a space to rent. But now that it went well, I’m very glad that we went through that.
CWA Summit Pre-Conferences

And it actually wasn’t that long after you opened, a couple of years, that you, Sierra, your gym, merged with Adamanta, which was the big news that we put in the Climbing Business Journal’s Gyms and Trends Report for 2023, and that’s kind of how you and I originally got to corresponding about this and about the evolving gym industry in Mexico. Can you tell me a little bit about how that merger came about? Because like I said, it was only a couple years after your gym opened that you’re merging with another gym. So that’s pretty quick.

So, the first time that I heard about Adamanta was when Adrian and I were looking to open a business, and Adamanta only had their first location. That was in Santa Fe, and it was a small bouldering gym. However, that gym was opened almost ten years ago; in November of this year, they turned ten years. And I remember I visited the Adamanta and I had a small chat with Mau Huerta, who is the climbing director and headsetter of the program of all Adamantas. And I was like, “They have something, I don’t know, something is going on here,” and they have Walltopia, which is obviously the leader of climbing walls. And then we both went on our ways, we opened Sierra and then the next time that we had a connection or an experience with Adamanta was when Bruno Mijares was one of the founders, came to Monterrey for a competition and we went for dinner after that. And we said, like, “Hey, these guys are cool people,” and we had a good chat. And then later on we wanted to open the second location, so we asked them, we called them, and we say, “Hey, could you give us advice on how to open, or the best practices to open a second location?” Because they already had four locations at that moment. So, after a one-hour meeting, we kind of connected and we share values and we share good insights and best practices. We kind of, like, didn’t see each other as competition because they were in another city. And then later on, the story says that Jose, which right now is the Director and who was also in the call with Bruno, the story says that they call each other, and they say, “Hey Bruno, hey Jose, like these guys, they are doing things well, they are smart. What do you think if we ask them to partner with us?” And then they just ask us if we were going to visit Monterrey if we could receive them. And Adrian and I were like, “This is very suspicious.” And we took them to the climbing gym that we were looking to open or to the space, and they like it a lot and they basically invite us to join forces. And because we had a good click and because we had the same vision, we thought that one and one equals or, I say wrong, one plus one equals three. So, that’s kind of how things started. And then there were, like, many months of negotiations and back and forth and talking to our investors and this and that, and then we reached an agreement in October of last year.

Were you ever a little bit reluctant to merge, to partner with somebody? Because up until that point, this had really been your creation, your baby, kind of something that you quite literally started from the ground up. And I don’t think that that side of mergers, gym mergers, gets talked about enough. When somebody really puts their heart and soul into starting a gym, it’s a big thing to bring somebody else, somebody outside, that wasn’t a part of that hard-scrabble, blood, sweat and tears, to kind of bring them into the journey and make them a part of the gym, or make your gym kind of a part of what they’re doing. Yeah, did you ever just have any night when you were sleeping, lying in bed, thinking, “Oh, I don’t know. This is my creation here. I don’t know if I want to bring other people in or give other people some access to it”?

Yes. And we talked to a lot of close friends, to see their opinions and their advice. One time, I even got an intervention from friends. They were like, “No, Javier, why are you doing this?” But Adrian was really, really sure of the decision. I was thinking a little bit about it. And then I noticed their manners and how we handled things and how we were able to solve doubts, how they opened their books and how we open our books and how the conversation went. And I noticed it was the right decision. And right now, I don’t regret about it. And I think it was the correct decision. Because it also help us grow faster, serve more people, and at the end, it also helps every other climbing gym. Because I believe that the challenge is to create more climbers. It’s not just to—I think there are two mentalities, and one is like, I have this slice of cake, and if there are more climbing gyms, then I’m going to eat less of that same cake. But our mentality is, if there are more climbing gyms, the cake is going to grow, and we can still eat the same slice, or maybe more slice. So, if there are more climbing gyms, I think it’s good for everyone. And yeah, kind of with that mentality, I put my ego on the side, and I thought it was the correct decision. Another hard thing was to say goodbye to our brand. Because I like the name of Sierra, and obviously the culture that we have built. So that was a hard transition. But later on, with the time, I also started to like Adamanta and how they do things. And we complement very well because they have strengths and we have weaknesses, and some of their strengths are our weaknesses. So, by sharing and by getting together, we do definitely better experience for our climbing clients.
Indoor climbing at Sierra Elevation
Díaz views new climbing gym growth from somewhat of “a-rising-tide-lifts-all-ships” mentality. “If there are more climbing gyms, I think it’s good for everyone,” he says.

Can you expound a little bit on that, when you say you have some strengths and weaknesses, they have some strengths and weaknesses? And I want to say, obviously, it seems like it was a really wonderful merger. It seems like it was a really good thing. So as much as I ask you if you were nervous or stressed about it, it seems to be that it was a great thing in the long run. But when you say that you had some strengths and weaknesses and they had strengths and weaknesses, what were the strengths that they brought? What were the strengths that you brought and the weaknesses, and vice versa?

Yes. I think that the main strength that they brought to us is the climbing or the setting. Because they have been in business for ten years in Mexico City. I believe there are more routesetters. And the climbing—I don’t want to say market, but the climbing community—is bigger in Mexico City, like, no doubt. So, that also creates more setters, and that also creates an environment where setters can develop faster. So, we learned more about setting with them. Right now, one of their best setters is in Monterrey. And we are improving the culture, or the work ethic, of setting. It doesn’t have to be improving, it just can be learning, just sharing. Some strengths that we had is that I believe we did better marketing and better operations than them. Because Adrian and I basically live in the climbing gym, so we were always there and were very careful with how things worked and the process, and all this. However, Adrian and I learned climbing not so long ago, and we didn’t have as much climbing knowledge of setting. So, that’s something that they help us a lot. And also, Jose, who is the director, he’s very numeric and left-brained, so he also brings that to the table. And I don’t know, just together we are a great team. It’s not just the three of us there’s, also Mayis [Fierro], Yair [Gutierrez], Estefania [Lugo], and all our staff team at the front desk. And we are learning from each other. Like, even our front desk staff is learning from us, and we learn from them as well. Another funny thing is that they changed their operating system just at the time that were doing the merger. They used to have Mindbody, and we have Rock Gym Pro, so when they change, we teach them so much about Rock Gym Pro. We just hand them the manual of Rock Gym Pro that we build it ourselves, and they were like, “This is gold. If it wasn’t because of you guys, we’d have, like, a learning curve of five years or something.” So, it was fun, and it’s still fun. We’re complementing each other in good ways.

And how did you handle this with your membership? Because I’m sure that there were some members that loved your gym, kind of because it was more in that mom-and-pop style, right? Not mom-and-pop literally, but just two guys sort of starting this grassroots gym, and then here they are merging with something that’s a much larger entity. What was your strategy, and kind of what worked or maybe what didn’t work in terms of easing your membership into this change?

Yes, that’s also a good question, and we told our members that the soul of Sierra was still there, and it’s still there, because, well, each climbing facility has its own culture. Like, at Adamanta Escandón people take their shirt off and there’s a lot of climbers; like, you can tell that there’s just this culture of climbers very hard. And if you go to Adamanta Satélite, it’s more like family-oriented, because they have lead walls and they have top auto belays. So it’s a little different in each location. And sometimes we get to feel that just because a brand is coming to a city, we say, “No, they’re going to change everything,” and all this and that. However, Adrian and I and all our teamwork, or team employees, are still working at Sierra, and we’re just trying to improve the brand. So, a nice thing for our clients, it was that we were able to lower our prices. And that’s something really hard to do. Probably if I didn’t merge with Adamanta, I wouldn’t do it because I didn’t have that safety net of what happens if it doesn’t work and what happens if we don’t get more members, and all these things or all these questions. But with Adamanta, we were able to experience and see if it worked, because we have the backup of all the different locations and we had more resources. Because, well, we bought new holds at the same time that we partnered with Adamanta, and there were many different things that we were able to improve when we partnered with Adamanta.
Elevate Climbing Walls

Do you think the drop in price helped with the transition for the members? I can’t help but think that must have been, it’s like, “Hey, this big change is coming, we’re merging. But the nice thing is prices are going to be cheaper.” I could see that as almost being like a mitigation strategy against any pushback. Not to say that’s what it was at all, but I could see that that’d be a way that people could get more accepting of such a big change.

Well, the main question was, “Is it better to lower the prices or not?” Because clients are used to this price. Like, “Why are you going to lower it?” However, the rest of the Adamanta’s location had a lower price. So, if you want to be a multi-gym or a multi-location gym, you need to have the same pricing in each location. Because if not, it doesn’t make sense. So, that was the main idea why we lower the prices, because it’s easier to lower the price of the new climbing gym than to raise the prices of all the other locations. And at the same time, it help us to balance or to bring good news also to our members, because we can say, “Well, we are selling the business, goodbye.” But then our members are going to be like, “Hey, what’s in it for me?” So, kind of telling them all the new things that were coming, like a new location in Monterrey—we’re right now building the second location in Monterrey, new holds and better prices—I think that it helped to mitigate the change in membership or changing name. But in reality, I don’t think that there was any hard feelings about changing the business or the name. Because we told them that the truth, that we weren’t selling, that we were still going to be operating the gyms, and that we were involved. I think the members have a lot of appreciation for us because they knew that the gym was built with a lot of hard work and effort.

And when you think back to the evolution of everything, from getting the idea to start a gym, going through the process, multi-year process, looking at different locations, starting a gym, and then ultimately merging with Adamanta, can you distill it down to some lessons? Like, what are kind of the biggest business lessons that you’ve learned throughout this process of wearing a number of different hats, from gym creator to gym owner to gym operator to now part of the merger?

Yes, I think that, well, first, we never knew or we never thought that in just three years we were going to partner with the biggest chain in Mexico. However, I feel that being a good person, it’s always the best way to operate or to handle yourself and to build a business. Because people are always watching, and people also talk about their experiences. So, just always trying to do your best will help you in the future. And I think that having a vision of what you want and building the right foundation that will be able to last many years, I think that was something really important. Because if we builded the first gym, and at least in our experience, we only had one bullet, so we had to make sure that the bullet was aimed correctly. And another good idea, or another good experience, is that people are very important in a business. One time I listened, or I heard, that the companies don’t breathe, but the people that operate the companies, they breathe. So, realizing and knowing that the importance of the people inside the company is super important. And that’s something that I believe I learned through the time because, well, obviously in class they tell you the important things of people, but most of the times you need to learn it the hard way. And I will say also that knowing all the parts of your business, like being at front desk, being at marketing, being going up and scaling up, it’s the right thing to do because if someone is missing, at least I can do my best. Or if I know that the front desk is crowded, sometimes I jump in and I try to just solve the questions of our clients and give a break to our front desk staff. Just yesterday we were doing switching spots in the switching rotations, and yesterday I spent my day as a routesetter. Obviously, I’m very bad at setting, but it was a good experience to be on their shoes, so I could learn that they were maybe missing equipment or missing tools, and it helped us empathize more. And the last thing I’ll say is that making sure that your people have the right tools to do the job, because it’s really hard to work without proper tools.
Díaz climbing indoors
“Companies don’t breathe, but the people that operate the companies, they breathe,” says Díaz, who approaches gym management with a people-first mindset and tries to support all areas of a gym’s operation, from routesetting to the front desk.

I love all those, and I think it would not be a bad suggestion to say to every gym owner, or every gym manager—maybe owner, I guess—you should spend a day working every job in the gym just to gain that experience and to know, okay, if you’re a routesetter, this is what your day to day looks like. If you are a front desk staff, this is what your day-to-day—I think that could be really educational for any gym owner, as you said, to be in the shoes of the different people that are in the various positions in the gym. So that’s really cool that you did that.

Yes, and it was something that we’re doing in all locations of Adamanta. Jose is going to be at the front desk on March 8th. Adrian Hovelman also spended a day at routesetting, and the manager of Sierra right now is going to spend a day in the department of sales. So, we’re all switching jobs just to learn and kind of empathize more with the rest of the team.

I want to close with something that you had mentioned to me in an email when we were going back and forth. And I think it was near the end of the email, you said that you feel that “Latin America is about to grow really big in climbing,” and that was so cool to hear. And I want to hear from you why you think, as an insider, why you feel that Mexico and Latin America at large is about to grow, in your words, “to grow really big in the climbing industry.”

Well, I always say that what booms in the U.S. and in Europe later on booms in Mexico. And now I’m also realizing that it also booms in Latin America. And there are so many—well, Latin America is an emerging economy that is growing. There are some big countries—Brazil, Chile, Colombia—and their economies is really strong. I also remember an article that Climbing Business Journal posted of how Mexico is switching and improving into more like commercial climbing gyms. And after the last year saw in the Pan American Games that happened in Santiago last year, I started to put more attention to what was going on over there. And I saw, like, three climbing gyms that opened last year. And I have some friends also in Chile who are climbers, and they tell me that there’s so many climbers there. So, I feel that it can be like a sponge effect. And obviously, if someone from Chile, Colombia, Brazil, Latin America is hearing this and they want to get in touch, we are welcoming to talk. And, yeah, it’s just a feeling that I feel that climbing is growing in Latin America as well.

Yeah, and to something that you just said there, I want to mention you had said to me that you are very open to any correspondence from people, anybody that might be listening to this, that wants to start talking with you, share some ideas with you, or just kind of exchange some thoughts. You said you are very open to ideas and collaboration from anybody in the industry, whether it’s other gym owners, whether it’s hold companies. I see you as kind of somebody who’s very open-minded and very willing and excited to work with anybody that really wants to work with you. So, if anybody is listening to this and they want to get in touch with you, they want to get in touch with maybe collaboration or just sharing ideas for gyms, where is the best place, or what is the best way, for them to reach you?

Yes, I believe by email it’s good. And my email is J, of Javier, and then Díaz, D I A Z, at Adamanta dot MX. And just by chatting, that’s how our history changed with Adamanta. So, even if it’s not for business, even if it’s just for advice, I’m also open to teach, to share, because people have shared with us. And I believe that if you share, and if you are open to helping other people, everyone gets better, everyone grows.

Javier, I think you have a really cool story. I really admire your ambition to just go for it, to start the gym, and to accept the twists and turns, the partnership that has come from that with Adamanta, and everything. I think that you bring a lot to the table, and I think the Mexico industry is a really exciting thing to be following now. And you and Adamanta, you’re a big part of that, so thanks for taking some time to chat here on the podcast.

Thanks to you too, John. It’s a pleasure to be here. The first time that we started working in a business plan, we were researching from Climbing Business Journal. So, it’s an honor to be part of this now.

Thanks for listening to today’s episode. And again, if you’re a gym operator or a product manufacturer or a hold shaper and you want to be a part of what Javier is doing, or if you just have some ideas to share with him or you want to get more locked into the Mexico gym scene, whatever, you can email him at JDiaz@Adamanta.mx. And make sure you’re plugged into all that CBJ is doing too—webinars, news articles on the CBJ homepage, social media updates on Instagram. And definitely make sure you’re following the Impact Driver podcast that my colleague Holly Chen is doing, which is the other CBJ podcast, but it’s totally routesetting themed, so check that out. Okay, that’s it for me. Thanks to Javier for coming on the show. I’ll be back soon with another episode. We’ll see you next time.

Join Rock Gym Pro at the 2024 CWA Summit in Portland!

Rock Gym Pro at CWA Summit 2024
The 2024 CWA Summit is less than 30 days away, but it’s not too late to schedule an onsite demo with software leader Rock Gym Pro and benefit from exclusive offers! RGP experts will be on hand at booth #912, helping you get the most out of RGP and unlock the value of customer data. (Image courtesy of Rock Gym Pro)
Are you gearing up for the Climbing Wall Association (CWA) Summit in Portland, Oregon, May 15th-17th? If so, Rock Gym Pro invites you to visit us at booth #912.

Interested in Learning More About RGP?

Before the summit, consider scheduling an onsite demo. This 15-minute overview will provide an opportunity to preview our features and solutions and learn more about Rock Gym Pro. Plus, scheduling a demo at the event unlocks exclusive offers for CWA attendees.

Need Support?

Members of the RGP Support Team will be onsite throughout the event to help you troubleshoot an issue or offer tips on getting the most out of Rock Gym Pro. Whether you have software queries or seek operational assistance, our experts are here to help.

Join Us for a Presentation

One highlight you won’t want to miss is our engaging product presentation, titled “Unlocking the Value of Customer Data with Rock Gym Pro.” Led by RGP Product Manager Jon Manz and Business Development Leader Trevor James, this session delves into industry insights in payments and check-ins. Discover trends and gain insights into membership retention tools and data collection methods.

See You in Portland!

We can’t wait to connect with you at the 2024 CWA Summit! RGP is the industry-leading member management software for indoor climbing gyms in North America, born in 2008 by an avid climber and climbing gym owner. Designed to tackle the unique challenges faced by climbing gyms and health facilities, Rock Gym Pro is trusted by hundreds of high-volume facilities worldwide. Join us at booth #912 to experience firsthand why RGP is the software of choice for so many climbing gym operators. See you there! Attend the 2024 CWA Summit in Portland and elevate your member management with Rock Gym Pro!  
This story was paid for by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Climb Insider: speed records and podcasts

image of speed climber

Just a few thoughts

Speed climbing got all the hype this week when Sam Watson ran a 4.79 in Wujiang, breaking the world record of 4.85 he had set earlier that same day. Incredible job Sam! From the crags, Access Fund announced their Climbing Advocate Awardees, a group of people who steward our outdoor areas. Buy them a coffee or beer if you see them around. And then a ton of great training podcasts, and even one with an NFL player that climbs. See The Freshest Job Posts Here

Community & Culture

Elevate Climbing Walls

Wujiang 2024 World Cup

Comp Scene

For Managers & Gym Staff

Elevate Climbing Walls

Training Tips

Head Coaching at Reach – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 April 18

reach header CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Head Coach Reach Climbing and Fitness Philadelphia, PA “Reach Climbing and Fitness is seeking candidates for an open Head Coach position to start the 2024-25 youth climbing season. This position is responsible for managing the competitive climbing team- including all curriculum, training programs, camps, additional staffing, recruitment, team communications, general organization, and route setting assistance when needed. Applicants must have experience coaching competitive athletes, and have a proven track record coaching divisional and national athletes to success in USA Climbing competitions. This is a prime opportunity for a coach looking to build their program in a facility dedicated to the support and growth of our youth athletes.”
Trango Holds Pardners

JOB SEEKER TIPS:

6 Tips To Help You Master Your Next Job Negotiation By Indeed “Once you understand your personal needs, start researching the market. Leverage resources like Indeed and Glassdoor to determine your desired role’s average salary range in your location. Match that against your years of professional experience, career trajectory and skill set to determine where you land.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
Head Routesetter at Gecko Phoenix, AZ PT – routesetter
Head Coach at Bouldering Project Tempe, AZ PT – coach
Summer Camp Instructor at Bouldering Project Tempe, AZ PT – instructor
Youth Team Coach at Bouldering Project Tempe, AZ PT – coach, instructor
Head Routesetter at Bridges El Cerrito, CA FT – manager, routesetter
Head Routesetter at The Boulder Field Sacramento, CA FT – routesetter
Operations Manager at G1 Broomfield, CO FT – manager
Floor Manager at Gripstone Colorado Springs, CO FT – manager
Routesetter at Sportrock Gaithersburg, Alexandria, Sterling, MD/VA FT – routesetter
Head Routesetter at Bouldering Company Minneapolis, MN FT – routesetter
Front Desk/Routesetter at Climb Monadnock Keene, NH FT – front desk, routesetter
Head Routesetter at VITAL New York City, NY FT – routesetter
Assistant Gym Manager at Portland Rock Gym Beaverton, OR FT – front desk, instructor, manager
Head Coach & Youth Programs Director at Brimstone Hood River, OR FT – coach
Head Coach at Reach Philadelphia, PA FT – coach
Head Routesetter at Basin Waco, TX FT – routesetter
Routesetter at Triangle Rock Club Richmond, VA or Triangle Region, NC, PT – routesetter

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/bouldering-project.pngBouldering Project (pick location)https://boulderingproject.com/facilityUSA - MN, TX, UT, WA
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpgCalgary Climbing Centrehttps://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/facilityCanada - AB
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/central-rock-gym.pngCentral Rock Gymhttps://centralrockgym.com/careers/facilityUSA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI
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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/entre-prises-1.pngEP Climbinghttps://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careersproductUSA - OR - Bend
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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/on-guelph-grotto.pngGuelph Grottohttps://www.guelphgrotto.com/careersfacilityCanada - ON - Guelph
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/trublue.pngHead Rush Technologies // TRUBLUEhttps://trublueclimbing.com/about/careersproductUSA - CO
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/high-point-climbing.pngHigh Point Climbing & Fitnesshttps://www.highpointclimbing.com/employmentfacilityUSA - AL, TN
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/impact.pngIMPACThttps://impactclimbing.com/careers/productCanada - ON - Milton
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/junction-climbing-center.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/metolius.pngMetoliushttps://www.metoliusclimbing.com/job-openings.htmlproductUSA - OR - Bend
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/metro-rock.pngMetroRockhttps://metrorock.com/facilityUSA - MA, NY, VT
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/momentum-1.pngMomentumhttps://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLCfacilityUSA - TX, UT, WA
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/movement-2.pngMovement Gymshttps://movementgyms.com/careers/facilityUSA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/Logo-OLC-jpg.jpgOLC Architecturehttps://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammemberserviceUSA - CO
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/Logo-OnSite.pngOnSitehttps://www.theonsite.com/careersproductCanada - QC
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/organic.pngOrganic Climbinghttps://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunitiesproductUSA - PA - Philipsburg
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/peak-experiences.pngPeak Experienceshttps://www.peakexperiences.com/employmentfacilityUSA - VA
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/salon-de-lescalade.pngSalon de l'Escaladehttps://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/organizationFrance
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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/stone-age-climbing-gym.pngStone Agehttps://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/facilityUSA - NM - Albuquerque
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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/the-gravity-vault.pngThe Gravity Vaulthttps://gravityvault.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NJ, NY, PA
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/the-north-face.pngThe North Facehttps://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/about-us/careersProductUSA
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/the-pad.pngThe Padhttps://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/facilityUSA - CA, NV
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/co-the-spot.pngThe Spothttps://www.thespotgym.com/careersfacilitiesUSA - CO
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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/zenith.pngZenith Climbinghttps://zenithclimbing.com/employment/facilityUSA - MO

Danish Gym Continues to Expand, Nears Completion of 9th and 10th Locations

image of aarhus boulders
After opening its first bouldering gym in 2010 and adding seven more since then, the Boulders climbing gym chain in Denmark isn’t letting up the gas, with two more gym projects soon to be completed and another handful on the way. (All photos courtesy of Boulders)

Boulders Denmark

Specs: Boulders, a Danish bouldering gym chain with eight open facilities, is planning to complete two new gyms this summer. Founded in 2009 by Frank Vilstrup and Søren Clausen, Boulders is now owned by Vilstrup, Martin Petersen (since 2014) and Ole Mørk (since 2019).

Elevate Climbing Walls
In 2005, “Boulders started as an ambitious project under the name ‘CPH Blocs,’ with the aim of creating climbing facilities for climbing enthusiasts,” Petersen told CBJ. “They worked to find suitable premises, but committing to the project was a challenging task.” From 2006 to 2009, Vilstrup organized mobile climbing competitions constructed on Abekatten containers for multiple climbing disciplines, from standard climbing comps to deep water soloing. Then, in 2009, the company signed a five-year lease for its first gym, repurposing a former lamp factory.
image of hvidovre boulders
“From 2020, we have opened five more gyms,” Petersen said—including the pictured Hvidovre location—“and we are looking at an increased rate of expansion from this point on.”
That first gym—formerly called Copenhagen Boulders, but now just Boulders—opened in 2010, followed by the Aarhus Nord facility in 2014 and the Wichmandsgade facility in 2017. “From 2020, we have opened five more gyms, and we are looking at an increased rate of expansion from this point on,” Petersen said. Expansion has always been the goal for Boulders, Petersen explained, but the business previously lacked the finances and organization to expand. “Now we do, and we are stepping on the gas,” he stated. When choosing a new facility, finding a suitable building has been the hardest part for the team, since the requisite building height, size and location can be hard to come by. “If it was easier,” Petersen said, “we would already have a handful more gyms.”
TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel
Petersen added that the Boulders gyms are designed with sustainability in mind. The climbing walls are built with bamboo panels, for instance, and the team uses products and services from local hardware stores and carpenters. “We also exclusively use green electricity and serve organic drinks and snacks in our cafes,” Petersen continued. All Boulders gyms—planned and open—are bouldering gyms, the bulk of which have workout areas, Kilter Boards, spray walls, children’s areas, and lounge space. “We cater to all stages of a climber’s life, while having a good time in good company,” said Petersen. In November 2023, Boulders opened its eighth gym (Amager Landevej), built in a preexisting facility in Kastrup. The 1,650-square-meter (5,413-square-foot) industrial building features walls reaching 4.5 meters (15 feet) which were built by local carpenters.
image of aarhus city spray walls
Most Boulders gyms, including the pictured Aarhus City facility, offer a variety of spray walls and system boards catering to different climbing abilities.
Boulders’ gym number nine, expected to open early this summer, is being constructed in an existing facility in the center of Aarhus. “We already have a gym very close by, but it was completely packed with people. We would like to capture that market and give everyone a better experience, without too many people,” Petersen said. The Aarhus gym will feature Walltopia walls in an 1,850-square-meter (6,070-square-foot) space, with similar amenities to those found in other Boulders locations, but scaled up to fit the “second biggest [gym] in Denmark,” said Petersen. Later in the summer, Boulders is set to open gym number ten, which is being built in an existing 2,000-square-meter (6,562sqft) facility in the central/western part of Copenhagen. According to Petersen, climbers in the area “need proper climbing facilities!” He noted the team is “constantly asked by people in those area codes” about a new climbing gym, “and now we will deliver.” Petersen added that, with the next two gyms already signed “and a handful more on the way,” the team is “really making progress this year and the next two.”
image of hvidovre desk
When planning a new gym project, Petersen recommends thoroughly learning about the city’s market prior to construction, to ensure climbers are receiving the amenities and services they want most.
Walls: Owner/Contractor; Walltopia (local carpenters for the Amager Landevej gym; Walltopia for the two Summer 2024 gyms) Flooring: Benky; Walltopia (Benky for the Amager Landevej gym; Walltopia for the two Summer 2024 gyms) CRM Software: “Cannot disclose” Website: boulders.dk In Their Words: “Learn the market. What is it your customers really want? It is probably not the same as you. What angles of climbing wall? What type of routes? What types of memberships? They are funding the adventure and the business, not you. So, give them what they want.” – Martin Petersen, Co-Owner of Boulders

The North Face Unveils Official Sport Climbing Competition Uniforms For Paris Olympic Games

the north face olympic uniforms New York, NY – April 16, 2024 – Today, The North Face has unveiled the official sport climbing competition uniforms to be worn by athletes from the U.S., Japan, South Korea and Austria in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Peak performance meets visual storytelling in the design of these uniforms. Each piece was meticulously constructed, pattern making was analyzed with 3D soft-wear, and garments were fit on climbing walls using athletes to achieve premium sport climb competition standards. Throughout the testing and development process, The North Face also worked closely with athletes including Nathaniel Coleman, Melina Costanza, and Nina Williams to ensure the design and construction of the product exceeded expectations. the north face olympic uniforms Visually, The North Face drew inspiration from iconic mountains in each region in designing each uniform – Mount Denali in the U.S., Mount Grossglockner in Austria, Mt. Fuji in Japan and the Hallasan Volcano in South Korea. These mountains are the highest peak in each region, signifying athletes reaching the “highest peak” in their sport.  The uniforms are also marked by an external taping construction that challenges tradition without sacrificing performance. By shifting traditionally internal construction methods to the exterior of the garment, The North Face has created a distraction free, next-to-skin product that simultaneously highlights iconic North Face Climb DNA.  the north face olympic uniforms Sport climbing made its debut at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, making this year only the second time the sport has appeared at the Games. As noted on the official Olympics website, sport climbing is a modern sport that has become immensely popular over the past 20 years. There are over 25 million climbers in 150 countries all over the world, and 39% of climbers under 18 years old. The North Face was founded in 1966 as a climbing store and since then, has maintained its position at the center of the climbing community. Through its support of climbers of all levels – from the pinnacle of competition on the Olympic stage to introducing and inspiring newcomers to the sport – The North Face is the timeless leader within the world of climbing.   the north face olympic uniforms In addition to the uniforms designed for The U.S., Japan, South Korea and Austria, The North Face also designed a sport climbing competition kit for France. While French athletes will be wearing different uniforms to fulfill conflicting sponsorship obligations, versions of both the French and United States competition kit will be available for consumers to purchase on July 1st, 2024. The available pieces will include men’s and women’s competition shorts, t-shirts and tank tops, with prices ranging from $80-$145. 
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Training Board Hold Systems 2024

Training Board Hold Systems
Training Boards continue to be a popular investment at climbing gyms around the world, spurring innovation in the market each year as hold system producers try to stay one step ahead of the pack. (All images courtesy of the respective brand)
[Editor’s Note: This article was first published on November 18, 2021, and was updated on April 12, 2024, to reflect changes in the training boards market.] The modern, standardized training board is an invaluable investment for climbing gyms large and small. By committing only a small fraction of a facility’s footprint for training boards, gym operators open up bottomless climbing options for a huge variety of customers. No routesetting is necessary since all systems come with an app packed with thousands of problems, and the only real maintenance required is cleaning the holds. No longer do private trainers or youth team coaches need to wander the gym to find climbs for their clients’ workouts. “They create a friendly, or cutthroat, way for people to train together, whether in the same gym at the same time or with partners across the continents,” said Fabrizio Zangrilli, who at one point made use of five different board systems as a gym owner.
Routesetter Bundle from Chalk Cartel
The concept of a training board is not new. Practically since the advent of indoor climbing, training aficionados have built “system boards”—often DIY mirrored walls that enable climbers to work on specific goals in a confined space, which are effective complements to a campus board and hangboard. But modern training boards take it to a whole new level, driven largely by technology. Combining LED lights and databases of routes on an app in your pocket―and built on a standardized layout that can be replicated anywhere in the world―the training boards of today can pack a lifetime of climbing into a 10×10-foot space. With more hold systems being added to the market each year, in this update we further separated the training boards into their various versions in the table below—for example, Tension 1 and Tension 2—and added new players to the roundup. There are several training board hold systems on the market today in North America. A few others are currently in use in other parts of the world, and it seems many new options are in development publicly and in secret. In addition to training board hold systems, we cover training board frames in a separate article here, which will soon be receiving an update, as well.
All details above are accurate as of the publishing date. New options may have been added and prices may have changed since then, and new routes are added every day to the apps.
MoonBoard
The MoonBoard, which is widely considered the first training board system on the market.

MoonBoard

Legendary climber Ben Moon pioneered the training board concept with the release of his original MoonBoard in 2006, which was based on designs he had used since the late 80s. Since then, his namesake board has been installed in thousands of climbing gyms and homewalls all over the planet, and the MoonBoard boasts a huge following and countless beta videos online. Over the years, MoonBoard has released multiple unique hold layouts―2016, 2017, 2019, 2020 (Mini)―with each designed for a 25° or 40° wall and with LED lighting above the holds. The 2016 layout, in particular, is regarded as the first commercial LED board on the market. Most recently, the company released a new 2024 layout as well as four additional hold sets. The holds tend to be small, with the grades starting around V4, which can limit beginners and warm-ups. Moon said the initial idea was to cater to “the needs of a small but dedicated group of climbers who understood that a small, fixed hold training board was an exceptional strength training tool,” and that goal is seen in the designs. MoonBoard was voted Favorite Homewall Board System in CBJ’s 2021 Grip List survey and runner-up in 2022 and 2023. They also proudly give 1% of all sales to environmental charities. “The holds are perhaps the most realistic to outdoor climbing. I think the OG yellow holds do the best job simulating some of the nasty holds you have to grab outside.” ―Eddie Morillas, The Front Climbing Club (all four board systems installed) “The small, deep in-cut holds favor a more powerful and tension-based climbing style.” ―Matt Waits, High Point Climbing & Fitness (three board systems installed) “This board forces the climber to not hesitate and to be very deliberate with their movement. I also like the fact that this board is pretty simple and can fit in pretty small spaces.” ―Ken Klein, formerly at Whetstone Climbing (three board systems installed) Learn more about the MoonBoard at www.moonboard.com
Mirrored Tension Board 2
The Tension Board 2, with its mirrored layout and mix of wooden and plastic holds.

Tension Board

The folks at Tension introduced the second commercial LED training board on the market in 2017 with their Tension Board 1. It has a mirrored layout like system boards of the past, but with the modern conveniences of LED lights and a route database app, and the Tension Board 1 was also designed for use on adjustable-angle walls. The symmetry has attracted users who wish to target left and right-side movements equally. And by using 100% wooden holds, it’s an eco-friendly choice and regarded as a relatively skin-friendly board for long sessions. In 2022, Tension released the Tension Board 2, a board system that supports adjustable wall angles from 0-65 degrees overhanging and includes wall sizes from 10’Hx8’W to 12’Hx12’W. The TB2 can be installed in a symmetrical (Mirror) and an asymmetrical (Spray) layout, giving users the ability to choose whichever layout they prefer, or switch up the layout later for a fresh feel and database of new climbs. For holds, the TB2 includes a combination of newly designed wooden holds and dual-tex, polyurethane holds that are illuminated from the center of each hold. “The hold diversity of the TB2 allows you to target whatever you want out of your session. Crimps, pinches, powerful and static climbing—it’s all there.” ―Zach Galla, USA Climbing Athlete “The wood holds are friendly on the skin and the symmetry helps identify weaknesses in your climbing. The climbing style leans more toward slower static movement.” ―Matt Waits, High Point Climbing and Fitness “It’s probably the most appropriately named board. You need to keep it tight and have good technique for this one.” ―Eddie Morillas, The Front Climbing Club Learn more about the Tension Board at www.tensionclimbing.com
Kilter Board
The full-perimeter LED lights in action on the Kilter Board.

Kilter Board

Legendary sculptor Ian Powell brought his deep experience in hold shaping to the training board space with his and Jackie Hueftle’s introduction of the Kilter Board in 2018. Comfortable and varied shapes on an adjustable angle frame have made the Kilter Board a popular choice for entry-level and elite climbers alike. And the unique, full-perimeter LED lights which encircle the holds are designed to help make route sequences easier to follow, on and off the wall. Kilter also introduced the first paired manufactured frame: the freestanding, adjustable Lemur x Kilter frame, designed and engineered in partnership with Lemur Design out of Canada. Though relatively new to the market at the time, the Kilter Board was voted Favorite Board System by routesetters in CBJ’s 2021 Grip List survey and was the runner-up Favorite Homewall System Board. The accolades have been pouring in since then, with the Kilter Board winning both votes in 2022 and 2023. There are over 1,000 Kilter Boards (and counting) installed around the globe, forming a worldwide network of climbers of all abilities and the largest problem database of any training board on the market. “Functional for a wide range of climbing abilities.” ―Abbygael Cancian, Rock Mill Climbing “The large, friendly hold shapes and fully lit hold design are less intimidating for new climbers and is the best way to introduce them to the world of climbing training.” ―Matt Waits, High Point Climbing and Fitness “Accessible to beginners at lower angles.” ―Eddie Morillas, The Front Climbing Club “I feel this is the easiest board to climb on.” ―Ken Klein, formerly at Whetstone Climbing Learn more about the Kilter Board at www.setttercloset.com
Grasshopper Board
The Grasshopper Board, with its bolt-hole LED lighting option.

Grasshopper Board

Boone Speed launched his Grasshopper Board in 2020 during the pandemic, with a layout developed by Josh Larson. The company’s modern, adjustable frames pair with the hold systems for a sophisticated aesthetic. On the marketing front, Grasshopper is the Official Adjustable Training Wall of USA Climbing, and it’s not uncommon to see climbing Olympians training on this system on social media. The mirrored Grasshopper Board was the first board to have some larger slopers and pinches included in the hold layout, and some say the bolt-hole LED lighting option improves on systems that have lights below the holds. In 2022, Grasshopper expanded its board to include optional 2ft panels on each side, yielding a 12×12 layout, adding several large slopers and pinches to the board. With some of the largest training board holds on the market, these large holds on the exterior of the wall allow climbers to avoid constantly hitting and dodging high-profile grips while working on smaller holds in the middle.  “Ergonomic grips…I like having larger and slopier holds.” ―Eddie Morillas, The Front Climbing Club “The shapes are fun and interesting, with quite a lot of variety of sidepulls, slopers, pinches and underclings.” ―Kevin Corrigan, Climbing Learn more about the Grasshopper Board at www.grasshopperclimbing.com
Decoy Board
The Decoy Board, which has a variety of hold sets consisting of signature Dan Yagmin creations.

Decoy Board

In 2022, Decoy founder Dan Yagmin launched the Decoy Board, a symmetrical training board with a variety of holds from signature Decoy hold series, such as the Minimalist, Schist and Rollies. These series provide smooth, rock-like and dual-tex hold options across ten different sets, allowing climbers to expand their board over time. The Decoy Board App offers thousands of climbs at a variety of angles without a kickboard, to simulate outdoor climbing. “It can be suitable for entry-level climbers as well as tame the strongest folks from your local crag.” ―Paul Jung, Director of Routesetting “Being symmetrical has shown me some real weaknesses climbing on different sides. They have the most comfortable holds that are still bad and require tension and technique to climb in.” ―Samuel Gardner, VITAL Manhattan “The decoy board is easy to interact with in a creative capacity, whether you are a professional setter or a community member trying out LED board climbing for the first time.” ―Ewan Bennett, Rock Spot Climbing “It offers a distinct climbing experience that truly translates to outdoor climbing.” ―Lilian Kral, Boardworks Climbing “Its versatility and appeal with our staff and customers has made it a staple for our training areas when looking to build new gyms.” ―Danny Howard, Rock Spot Gyms Learn more about the Decoy Board at decoy-holds.com/pages/decoy-board
Woods Board
The Woods Board, considered to be perhaps the hardest board on the market.

Woods Board

The Daniel Woods Light Up Training Board became available in the Winter of 2022, co-designed with Andy Raether, owner of Menagerie/Formik Climbing. With Woods and Raether’s combined climbing and industry experience, the design for the board came together quickly, resulting in a concept that caters to training enthusiasts looking for a hard sesh. The board consists of a densely-packed blend of wooden and dual-tex, plastic holds designed to be “ergonomic, useful and interesting.” The Woods Board app allows users to vie for top ranks on several leaderboards, propose grades, set boulders, and search through problems. “Ultimately, the Woods Board aims to combine the core creative spirit of a spray wall with the symmetrical layout and global network of existing training boards.” ―Austin Beck-Doss, Gear Junkie “The Woods board seems mega. More holds than any other board. It’s made for getting strong. It just seems mega.” ―Josh Aiken, Alpine Climbing Gym “The reason you will want to climb on this board is because it will make you strong…The grips are hard, the moves are heavy, and progression will come.” ―Noah Walker, Gripped Learn more about the Woods Board at menagerieclimb.com/pages/woods-board
Elevate Climbing Walls

Additional Training Board Hold Systems

The popularity of training board hold systems means inevitably there will be new entrants into the market as time goes on. Below are several other training board hold options; five are complete training board hold systems, and others are hold sets for DIY boards: 12Climb: 12Climb, based in Ukraine, has a 3×4-meter board system with light-up holds and a Bluetooth-connected app that’s intentionally built for climbers of lower grades and comes in two versions: the 12C Board, with grades ranging from 5b to 7c; and the 12C Board School, designed for beginning climbers and young children (4a to 6b route grades). Nectar: Colorado-based Nectar Climbing’s Nectar Board system is a 10×12-foot wall (coming Spring 2024) that rotates and can be adjusted from 5° to 60° angles. The standardized hold set for the board consists of Urban Plastix holds paired with LED lights (coming Fall/Winter 2024). Satellite: The Satellite Board system is distributed worldwide and comes in two sizes: 40° with 304 holds mainly for gyms, and a Mini (30° with 105 holds) for homewalls. So iLL: So iLL is in the beta phase of its So iLL Connect Board system, with the beta version soon being delivered to locations around the world. They also make Systems Holds. Wataaah: Wataaah’s Dojo board system is available in Europe as well as the U.S. and features 210 dual-tex, screw-on holds (105 unique shapes) with a mirrored layout for 20°-45° boards. Atomik: While they don’t make a full board system, Atomik does produce a variety of plastic system holds for DIY board layouts. Beastmaker: Beastmaker has four different wooden training board sets that can be used symmetrically or asymmetrically. The sets are designed to cater to various homewall setups and customer preferences, from wall angle to desired grade range. Metolius: Metolius offers wooden system holds for DIY board layouts, featuring marks on the perimeter every 10° to assist with positioning. Train to Climb: Train to Climb provides a coordination-style wall kit, which uses a symmetrical hold design for practicing a wide range of specific, dynamic movements.
Trango Holds Pardners

More Resources About Training Board Systems

Here are more articles that provide additional details and perspectives on these invaluable training tools:
Editor’s Note: Grasshopper, Kilter, Tension and So iLL are financial supporters of CBJ.

Trango Announces Exclusive Five-Year Safety Gear Provider Partnership With IFSC

image of climber in comp Trango – the designer and manufacturer of premier climbing gear and holds based in Colorado, USA – and the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) are proud to announce the beginning of a five-year partnership that will make Trango the sole provider of safety gear for all IFSC Lead competitions from 2024 to 2028. Kicking off with the IFSC World Cup in Wujiang, China, from 12 to 14 April, the 2024 season will see the US-based company provide state-of-the-art safety gear for IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Cups, World Championships, and Youth World Championships, at no cost for the Local Organizing Committees. Trango’s industry-leading product will include the Reaction Competition Quickdraws, which feature the aluminum Reaction Bent Gate Carabiners, with a keylock nose to facilitate smooth, fumble-free clipping. The distinctive black and pink carabiners, with their innovative gate design, will be paired with Trango’s Straight Dogbones and Maillons. The range of products supplied by Trango will extend to all the Safety Gear needed to run a Lead Competition, including belay devices, harnesses, and ropes. “Trango has always been a major supporter of climbing and a player in the international scene,” says Trango President Chris Klinke. “We have supported competitions with gear, holds, athletes, and sponsorship throughout our history. To support the IFSC on a global scale with its safety gear needs is a tremendous opportunity to combine our passion for climbing with our goal of supporting the community.” Marco Scolaris, IFSC President, says, “We are very happy to welcome Trango into the IFSC family. Obviously safety in our sport is an absolute priority, and in Trango we have found a reliable partner with great experience. One of our aims with technical sponsorship is to create a path of growth and study so that we can improve the sport, and Trango have bought into this concept ensuring a positive partnership.” Along with Wujiang, the IFSC World Cup Series 2024 will include Lead competitions in Innsbruck, Austria; Chamonix, France; Briançon, France; Koper, Slovenia; and Seoul, South Korea. image of trango quickdraw Here’s a rundown on the Trango Reaction Competition Quickdraws: Reaction Bent Gate Aluminum Carabiner Black body, pink gate Keylock nose, bent gate Weight: 48 g Dimensions: 100 x 58 mm Gate opening: 26 mm Basket: 37 mm Strength (gate closed, major axis): 23 kN Strength (gate open): 7 kN Strength (minor axis): 8 kN Straight Dogbone Cyan webbing, pink stitching 15, 25, 50, 100 cm lengths 16 mm wide Rubber quickdraw keeper 22 kN strength Black 7.9 mm Maillon w/ snap Dimensions: 75 x 38 mm Weight: 80 g *** About Trango Founded in Boulder, Colorado in 1991, Trango is an athlete-driven brand, dedicated to challenging the status quo of climbing and to advancing indoor gym technology. At Trango, we create innovative equipment that climbers trust. Our company is passionate about solution-oriented products that help climbers pursue the sport we love. You can count on Trango gear to deliver something extra, something special, that will contribute to your climbing adventure, indoors or out. About the IFSC The International Federation of Sport Climbing is the international governing body of Sport Climbing. It was founded on 27 January 2007 as a continuation of the International Council for Competition Climbing, which was founded 10 years earlier, in 1997. As a non-profit organization, the objectives of the IFSC are the direction, regulation, promotion and development of Sport Climbing competitions all around the world. After a successful debut at Tokyo 2020, Sport Climbing is set to make its second consecutive Olympic appearance at Paris 2024, and has been officially included in the initial program of LA28. In 2018, two Sport Climbing medal events were presented at the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018.
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Climb Insider: two webinars coming and World Cups begin

image of janja in competition

Just a few thoughts

A mega year of international comps has begun, with perennial favorites Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki taking the first World Cup gold medals. Four months from now we’ll see who earned climbing’s second round of Olympic medals. Beyond comps this week we have two pieces for homewallers, two articles on women’s physiological advantages, two new webinars announced, and a bunch of cool new hold shapes. See The Freshest Job Posts Here

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Head Routesetting at Bridges Rock Gym – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 April 11

bridges rock gym header CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Head Routesetter Bridges Rock Gym El Cerrito, CA “Bridges Rock Gym is looking for a full-time Head Routesetter to manage our Routesetting program across two locations: Bridges Rock Gym in El Cerrito and Mosaic Boulders in Berkeley. You will report directly to the General Manager, and assist them in assuring the quality, currency, and balanced scheduling of our Routesetting program. You will directly supervise our Routesetters, routeset, and help out at the gym in other areas as needed, including front desk, event organization, and occasional maintenance or expansion projects.”
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JOB SEEKER TIPS:

How to improve your career through networking strategies By CareerBuilder “Networking strategies are plans and actions that help people meet others and establish relationships within their industries. Networking relationships are often mutually beneficial for all people involved. Even when one professional has more experience, both individuals can let each other know about career opportunities, exchange references and advice, and help each other learn new skills. Networking can also help you develop relationships that last for your career beyond just one job. According to CNBC, about 80% of jobs get filled with help from networking and personal connections.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
Head Routesetter at Gecko Phoenix, AZ PT – routesetter
Head Coach at Bouldering Project Tempe, AZ PT – coach
Summer Camp Instructor at Bouldering Project Tempe, AZ PT – instructor
Youth Team Coach at Bouldering Project Tempe, AZ PT – coach, instructor
Head Routesetter at Bridges El Cerrito, CA FT – manager, routesetter
Campground Host at Red River Gorge Retreats Red River Gorge, KY FT – manager
Assistant Director at Sportrock Gaithersburg, MD FT – manager
Routesetter at Sportrock Gaithersburg, Alexandria, Sterling, MD/VA FT – routesetter
Team Coach at Gravity Vault Chatham, NJ PT – coach
Team Coach at Gravity Vault Hoboken, NJ PT – coach
Team Coach at Gravity Vault Montclair, NJ PT – other
Instructor at Gravity Vault Upper Saddle River, NJ PT – instructor
Head Routesetter at VITAL New York City, NY FT – routesetter
Head Coach & Youth Programs Director at Brimstone Hood River, OR FT – coach
Camp Counselor at High Point Chattanooga, TN Temp – instructor
Head Routesetter at Basin Waco, TX FT – routesetter
Operations Manager at Basin Waco, TX FT – manager
Assistant Manager at The Front Salt Lake City, UT FT – manager

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/impact.pngIMPACThttps://impactclimbing.com/careers/productCanada - ON - Milton
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/junction-climbing-center.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/metolius.pngMetoliushttps://www.metoliusclimbing.com/job-openings.htmlproductUSA - OR - Bend
https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/metro-rock.pngMetroRockhttps://metrorock.com/facilityUSA - MA, NY, VT
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https://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/Logo-OLC-jpg.jpgOLC Architecturehttps://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammemberserviceUSA - CO
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