Climbing Insider News Weekly: Jun 11 2021

Climbing Insider News Weekly: June 11 2021
Photo by Erik Anderson, courtesy of Whetstone Climbing

Just a few thoughts

There’s no substitute for knowledge gained through experience, but decision making is even stronger when driven by statistical insights as well. Data is essential to sustainable growth, and reports like CWA’s and AAC’s help us move forward intelligently. It’s 2021, and by now surveys should be part of our regular routine, both taking and learning from them.

Data & Tools from CBJ: Gyms & Trends – Grip List – Climbing Facility Map – Jobs –  Brand Directory

Insider Stuff

Mind and Matter – Climbing and Body Image (Sian Polhill-Thomas, UK Climbing)
“We’ve been warned a ‘tsunami’ of eating disorders are set to wash ashore post lockdown…Being locked away in a room, unmonitored, desperately trying to assert some control over one’s physical being is a common and worrying starting point.” – Sian Polhill-Thomas

Surefire Ways To Skip The Belay Test – Hint: Intimidation is Key (Holly Chen, Gym Climber)
“Think of it as a driver’s license. You don’t walk into a DMV telling their staff you’ve been driving before. They know you have, but they still need to test you.” – Holly Chen

Quebec Gyms Reopen, Ontario Gyms Open by July 26? (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“The big question regarding reopening does come back to Ontario…Canada’s most populated province will have a lot of work to do in order to reopen this summer.” – Noah Walker

The Decoy Board – World’s Newest Standard Board (Noah Walker)


World Cup Commentary

How to make World Cup boulders more enjoyable (

The biggest stars of the recent World Cups were not the Olympians – and that’s great for the future of the sport (John Burgman, Climbing)
“This should be celebrated because it speaks to the foundation of gyms, coaches, trainers, local teams, and volunteers around the United States that fostered such an abundance of talent and did not collectively stop at Olympic qualification.” – John Burgman

Let’s Psychoanalyze World Cup Routesetters, Shall We? (Francis Sanzaro, Gym Climber)
“We must go to the things themselves, as German Philosopher Immanual Kant would say. We must go to the boulder problems and see what we can learn.” – Francis Sanzaro

Natalia Grossman wins two golds, shares podium with best friend (Chris Weidner, Daily Camera)
“I was able to use the crowd’s energy to psych myself up. Having other people believe in me helped me believe in myself.” – Natalia Grossman

Athletes Headed to Olympics

As Her Sport Makes Its Olympic Debut, American Climber Kyra Condie Is on a Mission to Do More Than Win (Sean Gregory, Time)

Grabbing The Chance feat. Brooke Raboutou (Adidas)
“Having my parents as World Champions makes me excited and proud…They’ve been really helpful with my mental game as they have so much experience.” – Brooke Raboutou

Meet Nathanial Coleman and Hear How He’s Preparing for Tokyo (Climbing)

Meet Kyra Condia and Hear How She’s Preparing for Tokyo (Climbing)

Jessica Pilz, Olympic-Qualified Athlete, Has Complete A4 Pulley Rupture (Gym Climber)
“Of course an injury isn’t what I need right now but I’ll take the challenge and will do my utmost to be back as soon and as strong as possible.” – Jessica Pilz

Training & Routesetting

Podcast: Managing Common Climbing Fears Part 1 (Eric Hörst, Training4climbing)
“Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time. The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager…” – Eric Hörst

Video: When Climbing Meets Flexibility (Lattice Training)

The Dreaded Finger Pulley Injury (Gripped)
“Getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard.” – Wolfgang Gullich

Video: Tips for a Routesetter Interview (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

CBJ Originals

Inflation Hits the Climbing Industry (John Burgman)
“We’re always trying to be fair—we’re a small business and we don’t have big-wig executives making a ton of money; most of us do this because we love being part of a community, and we’re just trying to sustain it.” – Jamey Sproull

New Climbing Holds and Volumes of May 2021

Climbing Featured in Upcoming Tokyo Olympics Video Game

North American Cup Series Set to Debut This Weekend (John Burgman)
“The North American Cup series is particularly noteworthy because it marks a full return to the type of national (or, in this case, continental) in-person elite gym competition that has mostly not existed since the COVID-19 pandemic began.” – John Burgman

HWOW 60: Dueling All-Wood Woodies