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    New National Bouldering Pro Series

    Getting it done at the Yank-n-yard.
    Getting it done at the Yank-n-yard.

    Press Release:
    USA Climbing, the United States National Governing Body for the sport of competition climbing, announced 4 bouldering competitions across the country that are part of a nationwide series – culminating in our Bouldering
    Open National Championships this year in Salt Lake City, UT. This series of 5 events (including the National
    Championships) will make up the National Cup Series, and will award an overall total of $50,000.00 to competitive climbers over the course of the season.

    Oct 14/15, 2016: Yank-N-Yard; Stone Age Climbing Gym; Albuquerque, New Mexico
    Nov 12, 2016: Mesa Rim Training Center; San Diego, CA
    Dec 17, 2016: High Point Climbing & Fitness; Birmingham, AL
    Jan 20/21, 2017: Dark Horse Championship; Metrorock Climbing; Boston, Massachusetts

    Feb 3/4, 2017: USA Climbing: Bouldering Open National Championships; Salt Lake City, Utah

    “USA Climbing is thrilled to get this National Cup Series beyond the idea phase and into reality. We are excited
    to both support the growth of, and to give back to adult competitors. With our partnership with these great host
    facilities, we could not be more excited to announce the inaugural 2016-2017 season,” says Kynan Waggoner, USA Climbing’s CEO. “This series is a strategic way for USA Climbing to develop more opportunities for Open athletes and sponsors, offer exciting high level events for adult enthusiast competitors, and create a coherent “tour” of top tier bouldering competitions that will culminate in our National Championships.”

    USA Climbing host partners include MetroRock Climbing Centers and Stone Age Climbing Gym, facilities with a great history of running major competition climbing events in the US, as well as newer gyms, Mesa Rim Climbing and High Point Climbing. Chris Danielson, the Technical Director of the National Cup Series, says the event planning and series structure has grown out of the past 15 years of competition development. “From the original ABS, the PCA, the UBC, and to the amazing events run each year independently across the country, there is a strong history in the US of innovating high level and exciting climbing competitions. With the National Cup Series, we wanted to create something that gives the most elite professional athletes, younger competitors just aging into the Open level, and those veteran adults competing in their own region, something to be a part of on the National scale.”

    Each event of the National Cup Series will have a cash purse of $10,000 and USA Climbing will be awarding another $10,000 at the conclusion of the series. “One of our desires here was for standardization in format and prize purse… to start something we can build upon in years to come,” Waggoner says. “Top 8 will go to Finals in each event and we will have a season ranking updated after each competition. After Bouldering Open National Championships in SLC, we’ll see where the rankings stand and award our $10,000 Cup Series purse.”

    USA Climbing will be posting more information about the National Cup Series on www.usaclimbing.org on September 1, 2016 – rules, format, FAQ, etc. With any questions about the National Cup Series please email

    info@usaclimbing.org.

    New Gym In Works For Michigan

    A rendering of a proposed gym in Battle Creek, MI. Photo: Battle Creek Enquirer.
    A rendering of a proposed gym in Battle Creek, MI. Photo: Battle Creek Enquirer.

    A new climbing gym could be coming to downtown Battle Creek, Michigan if owners, Tim and Emily Bandeen and Charles and Nikki Elder get their way. Their company Cereal City Athletics recently closed a deal on a former JCPenney’s store for an undisclosed amount.

    The team hopes to open Battle Creeks’s first commercial climbing facility which will be called Battle Rocks.

    “We started Cereal City Athletics to bring more fun activities to our town,” Emily Bandeen was quoted as saying in the Battle Creek Inquirer. “We loved the idea of building a climbing gym, but thought it’d be a few years before we could make that happen. Our agreement with the land bank and the city of Battle Creek will allow us to get a jump start on that project, and we’re excited to be a part of Battle Creek’s downtown revitalization.”

    Battle Creek is a city with a population of 51,848 and sits a half-hour from Kalamazoo which has one climbing gym, Climb Kalamazoo which opened in 1996.

    Understanding Member Retention Rates

    retention

    Understanding the key metrics that climbing gym operators need to keep track of can greatly influence the success of their business decisions and keep their members happier, longer.

    Gym operators should keep a close eye on member attrition, length of stay, retention and the lifetime value to understand the lifecycle of a membership and how to make appropriate strategic plans.

    Traditional health clubs have been collecting membership usage and retention data for decades. And only now are climbing gyms starting to eye the importance of these numbers. Club Industry, a fitness industry trade journal, breaks down exactly how to calculate the most important data.

    Attrition

    Many facilities calculate attrition as a baseline for success. Attrition is measured by taking the number of cancelled memberships at the close of each month and dividing this by the number of active memberships from the beginning of the month and multiplying by 100.

    The attrition rate is the percentage of members who have canceled their membership. This calculation seems straightforward enough, but beware that it doesn’t take into consideration the impact of atypical promotional and sales efforts for that month. This isn’t usually a problem for climbing gyms, as they do not typically run monthly specials, instead opting for once a year specials.

    Length of Stay

    Another commonly used indicator of retention is to calculate the average length of stay (LOS) for a member. Divide the total number of months your members stay by the total number of members to get the average number of months that a member stays.

    Although looking at both attrition and LOS are valuable metrics to track, they don’t provide a good snapshot of true membership retention. Alternatively, you can call upon two better metrics: retention rate and lifetime value. These calculations are less affected by poor or exceptional sales months or your select members who have been with you for a long time.

    Retention Rate

    The largest revenue source for a climbing gym is typically monthly memberships. Because memberships are so important to the success of your operation, understanding retention is very important.

    Retention rate is the number of members you keep with respect to the number of members you had at the start of a predefined interval of time, for example one, three, six, 12, and 36 months. This is a good indicator of how loyal your members are and how effective your customer service is. Tracking and benchmarking retention rates helps you find out where your operational strengths and weaknesses are.

    From Club Industry
    Steps to calculate annual retention rate:
    1. Make a 12-month chart and record:
    Starting number of members. Calculate by adding the previous month’s final membership to number of new sales in the current month and subtracting the number of members who cancel.
    Total cancelled memberships for the last 12 months
    2. Total the beginning number of monthly memberships and divide by 12 to calculate the average beginning monthly membership.
    3. Total the number of cancelled memberships divided by the average beginning monthly membership to get your attrition.

    According to the International Health, Racquet and Sportsclub Association’s 2015 industry statistics, the average rate of member retention for IHRSA clubs was 72.4 percent. There are no statistics kept for retention within commercial climbing gyms but it’s safe to say that climbing operations should fall at the same level or even higher than traditional fitness clubs.

    Usage

    If you feel your retention rate is low it could be because you are not offering enough added amenities. Yoga, fitness classes, retail, youth teams, training programs… all of these will help your members to stick around longer than if you only provide a place to climb.

    If you’re seeing your new members drop off at the 6-month mark it could mean you need to put more emphasis on classes, groups or social activities.

    Usage, not cost, is the primary driver of a member’s perceived value of membership. Members who use your club at least two to three times per week are more likely to continue their memberships than those who come less frequently.

    But do you know what data you should be looking at to determine how your customers use your facility? In this article, Stephen Tharrett, president of Club Industry Consulting gives a few key areas where your attention should always be.

    The metrics that seem to have the closest statistical relationship to retention include:
    Member usage. Research shows a closely related relationship between frequency of usage and membership retention. The more frequently that members use the club, the more likely they are to remain members. The less frequently that members use the club, the more likely they are to resign.

    Early stage usage. Research shows that frequency of usage during the first 90 to 120 days of membership is closely correlated with retention, both during the first few months and after more than one year.

    Member satisfaction. Data shows that the higher a club’s “net promoter score” (percentage of members who rate you as a five on a five-point scale, minus those who rate you a one, two or three) the better a club’s membership retention levels are.

    Additional services revenue per member. The more money a member spends in a club, especially during the first 90 to 120 days of membership, the more likely they are to remain a member.

    Tharrett goes on to write a few ways you can take that new information and turn it into action items you and your staff can implement.

  • Current members who use the club less than four times per month. Contact these members and identify strategies and actions to get them more involved.
  • New members from the past month who have used the club less than four times. Implement strategies for helping them connect more effectively with the club.
  • New and existing members who have used the club at least eight times in the last month. Knowing who these members (your “business apostles”) are, allows you to recognize and reward them.
  • New members who have not spent money in the club in the last 90 days. If you learn the names of these members, you can focus on getting them engaged in club services.
  • Read more about retention at ClubIndustry.com

    CityRock Adds Cave System

    CityRock climbing gym in Colorado Spings, Colorado is not only letting customers go up the walls, but also behind the walls. A new cave feature is being installed in the gym that will allow expert cavers and newbies to get their fix for tight spaces and belly crawls.

    CaveSim creator and owner Dave Jackson crawls through the artificial caves under the climbing area at CityRock Wednesday, July 27, 2016. Jackson, an electronic engineer during the day, spent about three years designing the caves that opened about three weeks ago at the Colorado Springs climbing gym. (The Gazette, Christian Murdock)
    CaveSim creator and owner Dave Jackson crawls through the artificial caves under the climbing area at CityRock Wednesday, July 27, 2016. Jackson, an electronic engineer during the day, spent about three years designing the caves that opened about three weeks ago at the Colorado Springs climbing gym. (The Gazette, Christian Murdock)

    The Gazette is reporting that the CaveSim’s 225 feet of artificial rock corridors is first and foremost a high-tech teaching machine, so passages are adorned with facsimiles of the formations and other things a caver might encounter underground, such as stalactites, soda straws and spun-sugar-delicate helictites. Unlike the real-world versions, however, these are durable and equipped with sensors that trigger a buzzer and lights if a traveler makes contact or gets too close.

    “We built it to look like water-carved limestone passages, and there’s water noise on a loop to mask some of the sounds of the gym. There’s lots of little details to make it more realistic,” said Dave Jackson, the 34-year-old creator, whose creation – designed in partnership with his geologist wife, Tracy – took just more than three years to build on site at the downtown gym. “There’s nothing in here that’s meant to be scary for people. We’re really trying to teach people to like caves and cave exploration, so we don’t want to freak them out.”

    The idea for a permanent installation came to him one day when he was climbing at CityRock and realized the wealth of space going to waste beneath and behind the walls. When he first pitched the idea to the gym’s owners, though, they were skeptical – and a little confused.

    Final flourishes on Phase 1, such as air conditioning to keep the passage at a cave-cool temperature, will be complete by the official grand opening this fall. In the meantime, the space is open to the public and already earning a solid fan base among both experienced cavers and those who are new to the sport.

    Read more about how the cave system was invented, how the gym will use it, and more photos at The Gazette.com

    Climbing Officially In 2020 Olympics

    The IOC meets.
    The IOC meets.

    Last week the International Olympic Committee officially announced that climbing will be in the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics. This comes after two years of work on the part of the International Federation of Sport Climbing, which is the Worldwide governing body of competitive climbing.

    In a press release from USA Climbing, CEO Kyan Waggoner said, “I cannot adequately express how important this is to the growth and development of the sport of competition climbing. We have been working towards this opportunity for many years, and now we will get to see climbing’s incredibly talented athletes compete on the stage where they have always belonged: the Olympic Games.”

    The real news coming out of this announcement is the format that will be used for the Olympics. The IFSC proposed and the IOC accepted a combined format; one in which athletes will be required to compete in Sport, Bouldering and Speed climbing. This is in stark contrast to how all international World Cups are formatted which is by allowing a competitor to compete in a chosen discipline and to specialize in that discipline if they wish to.

    Korean athlete, Jain Kim competes at the Puurs World Cup.  Photo: Stijn Van Hulle. stijnvanhulle.com
    Korean athlete, Jain Kim competes at the Puurs World Cup. Photo: Stijn Van Hulle. stijnvanhulle.com

    Within international and national comps, there are no examples of a combined scoring or ranking system. So the IFSC will have to invent one — which they hope to do by the end of 2017.

    There has been speculation that this combined format would even force changes at all national championships. Not so says Waggoner. “I’m telling you right now, that is not something that is going to happen in the united states,” he said in a phone interview with CBJ.

    “Our single discipline national championships are quite successful the way they are right now,” he added. “And it would be too risky to change everything we do to a combined format to select Olympic athletes.” USAC currently runs a Sport climbing national championship for both youth and open categories (this includes Speed climbing, though athletes do not have to compete in both) and a Bouldering national championship for youth and open.

    Another interesting aspect of the Olympics is how athletes will be chosen to compete. There will only be a total of 20 men and 20 women from all countries that will compete at the games. This selection is not based on nationality but instead on performance. It’s still unclear how the IFSC will facilitate the selection of an Olympic roster but there has been talk that the World Championships along with Continental Championships could act as an Olympic trials.

    It’s important to remember that this format is only for the 2020 games. Climbing, in any form, is not a legacy sport in the Olympics and any future host country could elect not to hold a climbing competition. This means the event will need to prove its worth in 2020 if it wants to come back in 2024. “It may get picked up for future Olympics but we won’t know that till after the 2020 games,” Waggoner said. And if it does, the format could look very different.

    Mixed Bag

    Once the announcement went live the media sought out a few notable rock climbers, namely Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra to get their perspective on the announcement (Honnold and Sharma no longer compete internationaly and Ondra will be twenty-seven in 2020 and has shown no interest in going to the Olympics). These three were less than enthusiastic about the combined Olympic format, although they are still enthusiastic about competitions in general.

    But others, like British climber Shauna Coxsey, who will also be twenty-seven in 2020, told the Guardian, “Anything that makes people live a healthier lifestyle is surely a good thing. This will make climbing even more popular and hopefully open it up to people who normally wouldn’t give it a go. The 23-year-old from Runcorn, Cheshire went on to say, “The sport has grown rapidly over the past decade, mostly with indoor climbing walls. I know there are some people who feel that crags may become overrun but I would like to see it become more accessible to everyone.”

    Many older athletes are excited by the premise of climbing being in the Olympics but are less than thrilled about the format. Younger competitors, on the other hand, are likely more opent to the challenge of the combined format.

    “I think the people that are going to be competing for this, they’re not the ones currently on the world cup circuit,” Waggoner said. “We’re talking about athletes that are currently as young as 12 years old and they haven’t specialized yet.” Climbers must be at least 16 years old to compete as an adult in IFSC events.

    “So their response has already been, ‘Well then, I’m going to start training speed, I need to get better at speed.’ They know if they want a chance to go to the Olympics they need to be able to perform at speed,” Waggoner said.

    Hip and Urban

    Plans call for staging the skateboarding and climbing Olympic events in temporary venues installed in urban settings, marking a historic step in bringing the Games to young people and reflecting the trend of urbanisation of sport.

    Also included in the 2020 games are baseball & softball, karate, skateboarding and surfing. The surfing competition will be held in the Pacific ocean off the coast of Japan.

    IOC President Thomas Bach said, “We want to take sport to the youth. With the many options that young people have, we cannot expect any more that they will come automatically to us. We have to go to them. Tokyo 2020’s balanced proposal fulfils all of the goals of the Olympic Agenda 2020 recommendation that allowed it. Taken together, the five sports are an innovative combination of established and emerging, youth-focused events that are popular in Japan and will add to the legacy of the Tokyo Games.”

    Girl Hangs By Helmet

    Katie, second from right, at the Fun Factory before the incident happened.  Photo: The Mirror
    Katie, second from right, at the Fun Factory before the incident happened. Photo: The Mirror

    A young climber became unconscious after her helmet strap caught a large climbing hold which stopped the girl from being lowered according to a report from the Mirror. She hung from her helmet until a staff person saw her and performed a rescue.

    The girl’s mother, Tracy Jarvis, was on site and saw her daughter hanging limply from the wall. She told the Mirror, “I turned to see Katie unconscious, hanging by her neck, it was horrific. She was hanging with her whole body weight on her neck, and it made her pass out.”

    The accident took place at the Fun Factory Rochford, Essex. A facility that specializes in kids birthday parties.

    After being rescued the climber was put into the recovery position and later regained consciousness – before being offered a free juice and wet tissues by staff at the Fun Factory. It is unclear from the article whether or not this facility uses auto-belays. But from the photo, it seems probable, and highly likely in party places such as this, that an auto-belay was being utilized.

    An auto-belay’s function is to slowly lower the climber after a fall. There is no way for the machine to take weight or lift a climber upwards.

    According to the article, staff did not call an ambulance which, “horrified” the mother. The mother took her daughter to a local hospital where “doctors were shocked to learn Katie had not been given a neck brace after suffering a neck injury.”

    The girl suffered whiplash, neck pain and emotional stress. Mrs. Jarvis and her husband are calling for changes to be made regarding the safety rules surrounding the use of climbing walls but did not mention whether or not they would bring a lawsuit against the Fun Factory.

    Rio’s Biggest Favela Gets a Climbing wall

    C.E.U. – Construção do Muro na Rocinha from Centro de Escalada Urbana on Vimeo.

    Believed to be the first climbing wall in one of Brazil’s thousands of favelas, the facility’s opening comes just as CEU is set to receive some extra attention with the start of the Olympic Games on August 5. To coincide with the Games, one company is sending professional climbers into Rocinha to climb with CEU (which means “sky” in Portuguese).

    This comes from a great article written by Americas Quarterly. You can read more about how the project came together and the pro climbers that are helping to support it.

    Rocinha sprawls over the backside of the city’s cloven-peaked mountain Dois Irmãos (“Two Brothers”), which divides the wealthy beach neighborhoods of Leblon and São Conrado. It is considered the largest single favela in the country with about 70,000 residents, many of whom live below the poverty line in ramshackle homes lacking basic services. While Rio’s mountains like Dois Irmãos often serve as social boundaries, with wealthy communities at their base and favelas perched above, CEU is teaching kids to see the rock formations not as borders but as opportunities for growth.

    New Logo for Touchstone

    The new Touchstone logo.
    The new Touchstone logo.
    Touchstone Climbing, the largest gym operator in the US is getting a new logo. They made the announcement in a blog post late last week.

    “The new Touchstone Climbing logo comes to us from our friends at Design is Play, who have helped to create the identities behind The Studio, MetalMark Climbing + Fitness, Mission Cliffs, Hollywood Boulders, Cliffs of Id, LA Boulders, Sacramento Pipeworks, Dogpatch Boulders and Touchstone Brewing Company.”