EP Climbing
Kilter Board
More
    Home Blog Page 131

    Dallas-Fort Worth to Get Its Second Planet Granite

    Rendering of Planet Granite The Hill, the second Planet Granite gym for Dallas, Texas. Image provided by Planet Granite
    Rendering of Planet Granite The Hill coming to Dallas, Texas. Image provided by Planet Granite

    Planet Granite The Hill
    Dallas, TX

    Specs: 37,000-square-foot bouldering facility will be located in a recently renovated shopping center known as “The Hill.” Planet Granite The Hill, as the gym will be called, is the most recent gym project from El Cap, Planet Granite’s parent company. The new gym will also include a yoga studio and outdoor fitness area to be “built around a tree that’s been part of the shopping center’s infrastructure since the ‘70s,” according to a press release.

    Trango Holds Pardners

     

    Walls: Walltopia
    Flooring: Cascade Specialty
    Website: planetgranite.com

    In Their Words: “Our goal with both Dallas locations is to create a place for local climbing enthusiasts to come together and share their passion for adventure through climbing and fitness in a community environment…It brings us great pleasure to be able to showcase a building such as this to our membership base. This space strongly appealed to our company values. Not only are our team members strong environmental advocates, but through our giving program, we strive to enhance the outdoor areas that make climbing so special.”
    —Robert Cohen, CEO, El Cap

    Grip List 2020: Register Your Brand for New Exposure

    2020 Grip List Survey coming May

    UPDATE 5/6/2020: This virus of course has changed all of our plans. The CWA Summit was cancelled and Wooden Mountain has been closed (but that didn’t stop Heel Hook Harry from busting out this music video). Obviously there will be no Shape Gallery this month, and it’s also a little unfair to hold our usual Grip List that focuses on the favorite brands of professional gym and competition routesetters since they have all been sidelined. That’s why this year’s survey will have a new angle – Grip List 2020 Homewall Edition will focus on the brands popular to citizen setters. We will find out the favorites for those backyard, garage, basement and living room woodies that have sprung up all over. Coming this May. Climbing hold and volume and brands can check the CBJ directory here to be sure they will be included in the vote options. Please contact us to be added or to update your details, and consider becoming a CBJ member so we can add your logo.

    Spring always brings new life and new hope to the northern hemisphere. Trees bud and bloom, the weather warms, and routesetters and climbing hold brands know that CBJ’s annual Grip List is just around the corner.

    Each year since 2014, CBJ has queried routesetters from around the world on their favorite climbing hold shapes. Their votes determine the top brands, “all-time favorite” brand and favorite brand of volumes in our Grip List. Last year, we even added a “people’s choice” award to the mix through a partnership with Wooden Mountain in Loveland, Colorado.

    For the Grip List 2020, be sure to register your brand for the survey and the people’s choice vote, where brands will receive new exposure this year.

    2020 Grip List Survey

    We are introducing a few new categories in the 2020 Grip List Survey, which will be released in May. In addition to last year’s awards, this time CBJ will also be awarding routesetters’ favorite:

    1. Fiberglass macros
    2. New brand that began since the last vote

    Climbing hold, volume and macro brands can check the CBJ directory here to be sure they will be included in the vote options. Please contact us to be added or to update your details, and consider becoming a CBJ member so we can add your logo!

    The Shape Gallery

    People’s Choice Vote at The Shape Gallery

    Wooden Mountain is again partnering with CBJ to host the People’s Choice Award From The Shape Gallery during the Climbing Wall Association Summit in May.

    Climbing hold brands will gain extra exposure this year through The Shape Gallery at Wooden Mountain. Not only will climbing professionals attending the CWA Summit get to climb and feel your grips, but we will also be posting images of each problem online and bringing this people’s choice vote to a worldwide audience with an online survey.

    1Climb Brings Climbing to More Youth in Denver

    1Climb Brings Climbing to Youth - Climbing Wall in Denver
    The new 1Climb wall at the J. Churchill Owen Boys & Girls Club in Denver, Colorado. All images by Matt Inman

    [Branded Content]

    By Matt Inman

    I recently had the opportunity to visit the J. Churchill Owen Boys & Girls Club in Denver, Colorado. December 17 marked the grand opening of their indoor climbing wall, donated by the climbing nonprofit organization 1Climb. Tim Baum, Executive Director of 1Climb, invited me to see first-hand the process of opening their climbing walls. This is the fourth wall they have donated since 2017, but they plan to double that number this year.

    The Mission

    1Climb started as an idea of professional climber Kevin Jorgeson. Jorgeson grew up in Northern California and credits finding rock climbing with giving his life purpose and direction. Having gotten so much from climbing, he wanted to find a way to give more youth in America that same opportunity. In 2015, Jorgeson shared his objective with brothers Dan and Dave Chancellor of So iLL, known for their creative climbing holds. Dan and Dave saw the potential too and agreed to partner up. 1Climb was born.

    The 1Climb founders set out to reach the most youth in the shortest time. A partnership with the Boys and Girls Club of America seemed like a perfect match. 1Climb could build climbing walls in clubs across the US, which welcome hundreds of youth daily.

    In 2017, the hard work came together and 1Climb built the first wall at the Herbert Hoover Boys & Girls Club in St. Louis. After this initial success, Jorgeson and the Chancellors knew they had an idea that would work. They stepped up fundraising and partnership efforts in order to build walls at other clubs. Since then, new partners have come on board with a shared goal: to get 100,000 new youth climbing.

    1Climb Brings Climbing to Youth - Denver Wall Opening
    Some of the 1Climb partners and other attendees at the Denver wall opening.

    The Purpose

    At the grand opening in Denver, I spoke with Kevin Spak, the Outdoor Education Coordinator of the club and keeper of the climbing wall. Spak is an energetic person who enjoys talking about the club and the youth that go there. Not having grown up nearby an operation like the Boys and Girls Club, he gave me a rundown of what organizations like these contribute to their local communities. Each Denver club sees around 200 youth per day between six and 18 years old. They provide services ranging from STEM education, arts and crafts, sports, health and wellness, leadership training, and now climbing.

    The new climbing wall in front of us stands almost 20 feet tall and 24 feet wide in the corner of the gym. 1Climb partners with Eldorado Climbing Walls to design a unique wall for each club. The wall at J. Churchill Owen can take up to 6 climbers at a time and relies on TRUBLUE auto belays for secure falls. El Cap, the largest gym network in the US, donated the wall this time and also committed to ongoing programming and instruction. Black Diamond provided harnesses and So iLL stocked shoes for the climbers.

    Spak shared with me what getting this wall means to him and his staff. He mentioned how it would be a centerpiece in many new programs, and not just for this club. 20 clubs in the area plan to bring their members to climb. Additionally, his club can appeal to more Denver youth who may not join for the other sports. Besides the health benefits, these sports pave the way for Boys and Girls Club staff to support youth in other areas of their lives.

    1Climb Brings Climbing to Youth - Jorgeson and Boys and Girls Club Staff Supervise Young Denver Climbers
    Jorgeson overseeing the opening day climbing with the Boys and Girls Club staff.

    The Opening

    Watching the climbing is the highlight of the grand opening for me. Like at most gyms in the US, there are a mixture of climbing styles which remind me of sloths and mountain goats. Some youth are meticulous as they look for the next hold of the right color; others jump from hold to hold not caring if it’s the right color or not. Most of the young climbers show no fear as they climb and fall, get back up and do it all over again. Jorgeson, the lone adult on the wall, has been climbing with them all day. Watching him teach the new climbers, I’m not sure who is enjoying the day more.

    For this grand opening, 100 youth in the Denver metro area came to climb on the wall. Many of 1Climb’s sponsors also had the opportunity to see firsthand what their contributions mean to the local communities the organization supports.

    1Climb is well on its way. Thanks to partnerships around the climbing and outdoor industry, they are sure to meet and exceed their goal of getting 100,000 youth climbing.

    To help make that happen, visit the 1Climb website here and make a donation today.


    Matt InmanAbout the Author: Matt Inman is a speaker facilitator, freelance writer, and adventure traveler. He recently left a 25-year business career to explore life. Matt has found a passion connecting with people and helping them develop and explore opportunities in their own lives. He lives outside St. Louis, Missouri, with his family.

     

     

    .


    This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

    What Can My Climbing Gym Do About COVID-19?

    Coronavirus (COVID-19 impacts climbing - hand sanitizer

    The coronavirus (COVID-19) has already significantly impacted climbing. The IFSC’s April World Cups in Chongqing and Wujiang, China, are pending rescheduling, and the IFSC Asian Continental Championships – an Olympic qualification event – is currently pending relocation as well.

    CBJ encourages all climbing gym managers to be familiar with recently released interim guidance for businesses and employers regarding COVID-19 from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Climbing gyms will face a unique challenge if the coronavirus continues to spread, which many experts are saying is now inevitable.

    More Than Just Washing Hands

    Providing customers with free alcohol-based sanitizer, keeping hand soap stocked, and providing disposable wipes to staff are all solid strategies for climbing gyms. Many gyms already employed these tactics long before coverage of the coronavirus started.

    In case there is a local outbreak of COVID-19, gyms would be wise to have a plan in place for staffing interruptions (ie, what happens when your Head Coach needs to stay home for two weeks?) and allowing administrative staff to work from home.

    Trango Holds Pardners

     

    But for climbing gyms it doesn’t stop there. Very simply, climbing gyms cannot be fully sanitized. The nature of climbing – grabbing holds with sweaty hands – leaves plain the risk of transmission. It’s not panic to admit this as an industry; it’s pragmatic.

    All climbing gyms should monitor the status of the virus locally and be ready to react if conditions change. If local schools are closed, for instance, that’s a good indication that your gym should close too. That’s probably an easier call for a gym manager to make.

    What About Customers Who Appear Sick?

    The tougher call may be, “What do I do with a customer exhibiting obvious virus symptoms?” Of course no business wants to tell a customer to go home. Still, with “safety first” in mind, some gyms may adopt this strategy.

    However, kicking someone out of your gym because they “look sick” can open a Pandora’s box of legal consequences. Of course you cannot discriminate based on race, color, religion or national origin, and the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) could come into play as well (learn more about these legal issues here).

    A sign at the front door encouraging people with symptoms to stay home is a safer tactic. Additionally, managers would be wise to train their staff on how to properly communicate with affected customers. Protect your gym by knowing the laws and training your staff.

    In many ways, this is no different than every year’s flu season. During the winter, it’s not uncommon for a climbing gym to talk to a customer who is obviously sick about climbing another day. Perhaps in retrospect, this season’s COVID-19 outbreak won’t look much different than the typical flu. But in case it gets worse, climbing gyms should be prepared.

    Ask a Lawyer: Can Gyms Ask Sick Customers to Leave?

    Ask a Lawyer is a recurring column where attorney Jason Pill answers questions from people who work in the climbing industry. Got a legal question that you’d like him to tackle about your gym, your employees, or anything else in the wide world of climbing? Submit your legal question here.

    Be careful asking sick customers to leave your business

    Every year, climbing gyms battle the flu. They strategically position free sanitizer stations around the facility and keep soap dispensers fully stocked. No matter the steps taken, however, we still hear customers coughing, sniffing, and sneezing. How can a climbing gym respond to sick customers they would prefer to not be in the building?

    With the spread of coronavirus (COVID-19), climbing gyms may find themselves needing to communicate with patrons that are exhibiting obvious symptoms of illness. Before talking with a customer who “looks sick,” it’s vital to understand the laws around the issue. Locally, there may be statutes that limit your ability to exclude patrons. Nationally, there are two major issues to keep in mind, and CBJ contributor Jason Pill explores these below.

    QUESTION: “Can my gym kick out a climber who looks sick?”

    PILL: This situation is very nuanced. First, Title VII of the Civil Rights Act (a federal statute) prohibits discrimination in places of public accommodation on the basis of race, color, religion, and national origin. This includes virtually every climbing gym. Second, the Americans with Disabilities Act (the “ADA”) guarantees the right of public accommodation to disabled individuals, and thus prohibits discrimination by private businesses based on disability (e.g., a business cannot deny service to blind or deaf customers).

    A Closer Look at the ADA

    Refusing services to customers “who look sick” may run afoul of the ADA, but the inquiry doesn’t end there. As a starting point, having coronavirus, for example, may not qualify as a disability under the ADA because the ADA does not cover minor or temporary conditions (such as the cold or flu). The ADA does, though, cover severe short-term illnesses. It’s not a bright-line rule, so it depends how the illness impacts the individual and whether it actually is coronavirus or the flu. Adding further complication, and unlike Title VII, the ADA is broader than some of its federal counterparts and protects individuals who have disabilities or are perceived as having a disability.

    OnSite

     

    Assuming an individual with the coronavirus is covered by the ADA and the ADA protections are triggered, the ADA still allows businesses to take safety factors into consideration when providing (or not providing) services. For that reason, there would be a strong public safety argument for denying service if an individual who is sick poses a direct threat to the health and safety of others. Of course, any safety standard relied upon by a gym would have to be based on objective criteria rather than stereotypes or generalities.

    Communication vs. Exclusion

    At a minimum, I think most gyms are safe putting up signs which encourage people who are currently sick or exhibiting flu-like symptoms to not visit, for the safety of others.  However, if gyms are going to actively refuse service, there are more nuanced considerations. Protecting the safety and health of other customers would likely insulate most gyms from liability in this situation, but I would be cautious about how a gym rolled out or implemented this program and how it determined when someone “looks sick.”

    As a middle ground, I also think most gyms are safe talking to people exhibiting noticeable symptoms, and encouraging them to come back when they’re feeling better. This is a little softer than actively kicking them out, and may encourage a dialogue which could help ensure that the symptoms aren’t related to a different disability that was not contagious.  This is where messaging may help, and I would want to have a manager involved.


    Note: This recurring column offers general advice and is not intended to be used as direct legal counsel. Gym owners should consult a lawyer for their facility’s specific legal matters. Pill can be contacted directly here.

    Duffy, Yip Round Out North American Roster for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics

    Colin Duffy and Alannah Yip Rounding Out North American Roster for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics
    Colin Duffy (right) and Alannah Yip (left) climbing at IFSC PanAmerican Championships Los Angeles. All photos by Daniel Gajda / IFSC

    At the IFSC PanAmerican Championships last weekend, Alannah Yip and Colin Duffy rounded out the North American roster for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Duffy is the fourth and final member of Team USA to qualify for Tokyo 2020 – Nathaniel Coleman, Kyra Condie and Brooke Raboutou already qualified at previous qualification events – and Yip joins Sean McColl as the representatives of Team Canada. The combined event (lead, bouldering, speed) took place at Sender One climbing gym in Los Angeles.

    Elevate Climbing Walls

     

    Duffy’s Rise

    A Colorado local and member of Team ABC, 16-year-old Duffy has become an American phenom in competition climbing. Internationally, he quickly rose to prominence by winning back-to-back youth world championships in Youth B Lead in 2017-2018. Duffy has excelled at home as well, and especially of late. He kicked-off 2020 by claiming the USA youth bouldering title in Youth A and placed second at the USA Combined Invitational. Now, he is the youngest climber to qualify for Tokyo 2020.

    Colin Duffy and Team ABC coach Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, after qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics
    Colin Duffy with Team ABC coach Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou after qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.

    “I’d like to thank my parents, my climbing team back in Boulder, Colorado, the whole US team and anyone who supported me up to this point,” said Duffy after the award ceremony.

    Yip’s Rebound

    Yip hails from Vancouver and has been competing in international climbing competitions since 2007. She is a regular on the IFSC World Cup circuit and excels in bouldering, ranking tenth in the world. After missing out on Olympic berths at the previous qualification events in Toulouse and Hachioji, Yip rebounded in Los Angeles. She relied on her strong bouldering performance in the finals to join longtime family friend McColl in qualifying for Tokyo.

    Alannah Yip qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics
    Alannah Yip at the IFSC PanAmerican Championships in Los Angeles.

    “I still can’t believe it. I’m going to the Olympics! So thankful for everyone’s support, near and far,” said Yip on her Instagram.

    Los Angeles marked the last Tokyo 2020 qualification event for North American athletes. So far, the US and Japan are the only countries to reach full quota (two men and two women). The Olympics in Tokyo will take place on August 4-7 and will be a first for climbing.

    The list of qualified athletes can be found on the IFSC website, and a complete guide to climbing at the Olympics can be read here.

    Helping People Do What They Were Born to Do: Behind the Desk at CityROCK

    Behind the Desk…is an ongoing series that profiles people influencing and advancing the industry in gyms around the country. This time CBJ does something a bit different and chats with two people at the same time. In fact, it’s an ongoing team effort for Lara Grosjean and Heather Robinson at CityROCK in Colorado Springs, Colorado. And since the gym has gone through a massive remodel and celebrated its 10th anniversary last month, there is a lot to discuss.

    Competition and community behind the desk at CityROCK in Colorado Springs, CO
    Competition and community at CityROCK in Colorado Springs, CO. All images courtesy of CityROCK

    Name: Lara Grosjean and Heather Robinson
    Title: Majority Owner and General Manager (respectively), CityROCK
    Location: Colorado Springs, CO

    CBJ: CityRock was kind of one of the trend setters for having a small bar in its lobby—and I’ve read online that that bar was what initially brought Heather to be employed at the gym. I’m curious to hear how a bar uniquely impacts the dynamic of a gym.

    GROSJEAN: The bar/meeting house was my husband Joe’s idea. The gym is in an old movie theater, and we had a large area up front that was the concession stand. In the first few years we were open, we used it for different things, including CrossFit for a while. From the early days of our first gym in Monument [Colorado], we had always served snacks and coffee from our front desk. Joe thought a pub in the front would keep climbers in the building and make it a more pleasant experience to come to CityROCK.

    One day, Joe and Steve Hitchcock, leader of a local nonprofit called UpaDowna, started chatting. Steve offered to partner with us to open a pub. The original vision was that we would split the profits with UpaDowna if they helped staff it and get it going. It quickly became apparent that with discounts to our members and the low profit margin of a restaurant, there really wouldn’t be any profits to split. We also realized that running a restaurant was more work than any of us could take on given our skill sets. That’s when Heather came into the picture.

    ROBINSON: I think the coolest part of having The Ute & Yeti in the gym lobby is the sense of community it encourages. It creates an amazing vibe as you enter the gym. After our guests finish climbing, they have a destination to rest their sore pads on an ice cold beer. It offers our community a place to gather and take part in events. Whether it’s movies, trivia, slideshow presentations, they can sit comfortably and enjoy a meal or a drink while doing so.

    The restaurant is not open during the day, so we use the dining room as a community work space, complete with complimentary coffee during those hours. Many of our members come in early for climbing, cardio or yoga, and stay for hours afterwards working on their computers. We have also made the restaurant very family friendly, which works with our youth programs. It’s really warming to be able to offer a space that can accommodate so much for the people that frequent our gym.

    A look inside CityROCK's eatery, The Ute & Yeti.
    A look inside CityROCK’s eatery, The Ute & Yeti.

    CBJ: What are some keys to successfully combining a climbing gym with a bar?

    ROBINSON: We have structured our menu at the Ute to be climber-friendly: made to order, always fresh, almost all made in house (we don’t bake bread or make mayonnaise), keto, gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, and if we don’t have what you need—you name it and we’ll modify it. Climbers can be very specific in what they eat, so we have catered to their needs from the beginning.

    At CityROCK, kid-friendly and affordable items are a must, and we need to be able to get the plates out fairly quickly. Beer is definitely well received. The Ute & Yeti has a rotating beer list that boasts anywhere from 75-90 beers at a time, all craft and always changing. We host 16 taps, two of which pour hyper-local Springs Culture Kombucha, and the other 14 are crafts of all styles. Every tap changes each time we blow a keg. We have one of the best beer lists on the Front Range.

    I think the most important key to being successful in conjunction with the gym is the friendly service and always being happy to see our members. They really are the reason The Ute has been so successful. We have an awesome clientele.

    OnSite

     

    CBJ: CityRock went through a massive remodel several years ago, and you were both involved with that. What sort of remodeling was done, and any lessons learned from that by each of you?

    GROSJEAN: The remodel actually began in the spring of 2018 and is just wrapping up now. Joe and I were in the middle of a three-year sailing trip with our children when we heard there might be another gym coming to Colorado Springs. We decided we needed to take a break from sailing to make sure that we had done everything we could to position CityROCK to continue to serve the climbers of southern Colorado.

    We have made continual improvements to CityROCK over the years but, in order to add everything we wanted to build this time, we had to make some massive changes. Joe has a background in mechanical engineering and, in the past, has done much of the building himself but this time we decided to bring in an architect and hire contractors because of the scope of the work we were doing. Heather bore the brunt of managing the project since we left a few months into it to resume our sailing trip, so I’m sure she has many comments about inheriting someone else’s vision.

    There’s definitely something to be said for doing additional planning and we certainly could have done more of that. I know some of the work Joe and the team did early on was torn out and redone, which is unfortunate. However, I also know people who have spent years and years making plans to build and they end up with many of the same issues that seem to come up any time you remodel or build.

    I think you have to make a plan with what you know and be prepared to revise and address issues as they arise. It also helps to have a detail-oriented person like Heather overseeing the project. Were we to do it again, I would try to find the right upper-level person on the staff (that wasn’t the GM) to liaise with the contractors and manage the project to take some of the burden off Heather.

    ROBINSON: Yes, we are actually finishing up the remodel now. We changed around 30 percent of the rope walls, 90 percent of the bouldering walls, replaced the rope climbing floor, added a training room, a cardio and fitness room, a third level yoga studio that looks out over the entire gym, amphitheater seating on the lower rope level, expanded the Ute kitchen and updated the dining room, remodeled the front desk and orientation area, added a private party room for the gym and restaurant to use, installed an HVAC system complete with Airus fans, updated the electrical/Ethernet/security systems, sprinkled the entire building, added staff offices and a break room, and built a garage for our new boom lift. The last leg will be to add a sunroom-style patio to the front of the building to address additional seating needs for the Ute dining room.

    This project was massive! It was done in steps and we remained open for all but a minimal eight days of closure, which were broken up over the 16 months of the bulk of the remodel. While we tried to minimize the impact on the members as much as humanly possible, it was not a small impact and the community around this gym blew my mind with their patience. I’m not saying we didn’t upset people with the construction, but as a whole the members of CityROCK were so forgiving and supportive of this project.

    The biggest lesson I learned: our members really love us and will put up with a whole mess of shenanigans for a shiny, new climbing facility! To be serious, the construction crew and gym staff did a phenomenal job with this project. Our staff built all of the climbing walls, rope floor and had a huge hand in much of the cosmetic changes to the facility.

    Gym patrons climb the remodeled walls of CityROCK.
    Gym patrons climb the remodeled walls of CityROCK.

    CBJ: I saw that CityROCK has an adaptive climbing team. How did that come about?

    GROSJEAN: In the first few years that we were open downtown, we did a team building for the Olympic Training Center (OTC) to encourage athletes to meet and build relationships with those outside their sport. One of the events was for all members of a team to get up “The Wall,” a typical team-building event.

    Joe was watching along with Peter Haberl, a sports psychologist at the OTC. Most of the participants were world-caliber athletes in their sports and had no difficulty scaling the wall. However, one of the team members was a Paralympic swimmer who was born without full limbs. As the event progressed, almost all of the athletes had scaled the wall, not thinking about physical limitations, since they had very few. But the Paralympic swimmer did not have the capacity to climb the bouldering wall without help and was left on his own at the bottom.

    When the other athletes noticed this from the top of the wall, they were mortified. Joe reminded the Paralympian that, according to the rules of the event, he could make use of certain tools. He looked around for a moment, then found a nearby rope, swung it over to where his teammates could reach it and tied it around his waist, allowing them to assist him in climbing the wall.

    After witnessing this moment, Joe was inspired to make climbing accessible to anyone who came into our gym. The seed for the adaptive climbing team was planted on that day and it has evolved into one of the most loved programs in our gym. It is successful because of the dedication of the team leader and the volunteers who work one-on-one with the climbers.

    Vertical Solutions

     

    CBJ: I often ask people to describe what their community is like. I see on the CityROCK website there is an entire section devoted to “Community Support & Outreach.” So, what makes CityROCK’s community unique—and what does the gym add to it?

    GROSJEAN: Climbing isn’t just a sport or a hobby—it’s one of our innate abilities as humans. That means that those of us lucky enough to work at a climbing gym are helping people do what they’re born to do. But climbing is just one part of who they are. They are also parents, students, artists, musicians, friends, cyclists, runners, pet-owners, actors, singers, and community activists. All of the wonderful people that come into our gym come to us with their own sets of interests, beliefs, opinions, strengths and weaknesses. As much as we can, we like to support their interests in and outside of our building.

    There are so many interesting people and organizations in the Colorado Springs area, trying to make life more fulfilling for its residents. We believe it makes sense to work with those like-minded organizations to multiply our ability to serve our patrons. So we have a staff member whose role is to do community outreach and try to build partnerships that benefit all involved.

    From our earliest days in Monument when we had to fight for every customer, we learned that people came back not because they liked us or because our routes were the best or because our gym was the cleanest (although those were important factors) and it certainly wasn’t because it was the most comfortable place to climb—it was freezing.  They came back because they met other like-minded people at our gym. They stayed through the cold and the noise because their friends were there too. We’ve tried to remember that and we do everything we can to make CityROCK a place where you will find a friend.

    ROBINSON: Our community is our story. Our entire business is based around our community. Without it, we wouldn’t still be here. We donate 100 percent of our initiation fees to non-profit organizations every year, many of which we let our members choose. CityROCK has celebrated its 10-year anniversary, and we celebrated our community for that occasion. We are a gym of all types of people and we invite all types of people to be here. I think our community is best summed with the word ‘inclusive.’

    CityROCK's Heather Robinson with her daughter.
    CityROCK’s Heather Robinson with her daughter.

    Grosjean suggested discussing some “challenges of being a woman in the climbing industry” and some “advantages and disadvantages of being a mother while simultaneously running a gym.” CBJ was happy to hear their thoughts on those topics.

    GROSJEAN: Joe and I got married and opened our first climbing gym in Monument a month later. I always joke that the gym was our first child. The other three human children came soon after, and are now ages 6, 9, and 13. The biggest advantage to being a mother and having a business is that you can bring your children to work whenever you want. This is also the biggest disadvantage. I remember scoring climbing competitions while changing a newborn baby’s diaper, working on Quickbooks and nursing, pumping milk in a hockey referee’s closet, and frantically searching for my 1.5-year-old daughter—only to find her at the top of the bouldering wall where she was looking for the slide.

    Like all working moms, I have found it challenging to balance time with my kids and my husband with the energy required by the climbing gym and its staff. There were many, many events that could have been better organized or communications that could have gone better. But, overall, I think we have a better gym because of this struggle. I learned to manage my time more efficiently and prioritize what really had to be done during the time I had. Our staff learned to be more independent.

    I’ve always emphasized the need for strong children’s programs and the educational component of climbing. My belief is that by creating strong youth programs, we are building future climbers…I feel like there’s always a struggle in climbing gyms between a desire to have kids and families and the desire to have ‘serious’ climbers or more of a singles scene. CityROCK is no exception. Until recently, the vast majority of our staff was childless, and I felt like I was constantly trying to convince them of the importance of dedicating vast amounts of energy and resources to youth programs.

    In response to strong pressure (ironically from my husband Joe) to justify the youth programs from a financial standpoint, I created a spreadsheet showing that each program could pay its own way in the gym and still generate a nominal profit. This spreadsheet has become a critical part of how we measure the success of our various programs and make decisions on how they evolve. While it’s important that youth programs contribute to the bottom line, I remain convinced that the positive impact that our team of coaches has on the kids is impossible to measure.

    Asana Climbing

     

    ROBINSON: I don’t really look at the challenges I face in this industry specifically as a female or male. I definitely envy the upper body strength of some men when I am being shut down on some of our overhung climbs, but that’s why I love slab!

    The position of running a gym is definitely dominated by men, but that’s what makes CityROCK even more special. As a woman, I feel like there is a sense of family that may or may not be present at other facilities. My staff is an extension of my family; I love them all dearly. We are one unit and are only as strong as our weakest, therefore we function together and are consistently involved and aiding one another. While my staff’s personal lives are their own, I do everything in my power to be a support for them when they need it. I think that level of relationship is rare in business these days. It’s part of our local, small business feel. I am great because of those amazing employees who work with me.

    My biggest disadvantage would be time management, but that’s not specific to this business. I am a single mother, so it’s really hard to juggle the schedule of day time admin duties and staff facilitation, the evening events we host (and we are always hosting something), member interaction (evening is our peak time), homework, after school activities, down-time, house work, and quality time with my daughter. The woes of a working mom! All and all, I think being a mother really helps me to be a better boss, hands down.

    Got a cool story? Tell us!

    Do you know somebody who works in the climbing industry and would be good to profile in a Behind the Desk segment? (Or, do you work in the industry and have a personal background that you think others would enjoy learning about?) If so, please contact us and tell us about it!

    How to Start a Climbing Gym Part 2: Business Planning with Vertical Solutions

    Starting a Climbing Gym: Latitude Climbing & Fitness entrance
    The entrance to Latitude Climbing & Fitness, a climbing gym and business in Norfolk, Virginia. All images courtesy of Vertical Solutions

    Okay, so you had your brain blast and are set on the idea of this whole climbing gym thing. But, what’s next?

    Well, at the end of the day, a climbing gym is a business. Running any business is difficult, time-consuming work. While forming one can actually be a lot easier than people imagine, there are many moving parts during the initial start-up phase that some fail to address.

    So, grab your pen and paper because it’s time to plan. Just go slowly so you don’t miss a step. The more prepared you are, the more professional you will appear to lenders and others who need to be on board with your idea.

    Business Planning

    Business success begins with the right team, which could include a group of partners with varied skill sets. One skill set you will need is solid legal and tax advice from professionals in your jurisdiction, for instance, to help protect your investment. Some thoughts you should discuss with your partners are:

    • What is each partner investing (sweat, cash or other) and what does each expect in return?
    • What will each partner’s scope of responsibility be?
    • How will high-level decisions be made? Will you have a general manager or board of directors?
    • If your business fails, how will assets be liquidated and distributed to partners, if any are available?
    • If you’re successful, will partners have an automatic right to participate in, or otherwise own, new gyms?
    Starting a Climbing Gym: Climber at Latitude Climbing & Fitness
    A climber working through one of the steep problems at Latitude.

    Overall, you want everyone involved to be on the same page. Answering these questions before taking any major steps will help keep you on track when obstacles arise (because they inevitably will).

    More formally, you will want to agree on and have your lawyer draft the documents that provide the necessary structure on how your business will handle things. These could include plans for what happens with your profits and losses; who gets to vote on important decisions; who is assigned to manage the business; and what to do if someone passes away or wants to leave the company. Quality legal counsel is your best bet on forming a business with the proper fundamental documents for your particular business needs.

    In addition, you’ll also want to define your target customers. Sure, the answer is ‘climbers.’ But do you know how many climbers are in your area? What they enjoy doing when not pulling plastic? Which age group is most prevalent in your market? What is their average income? You will need to plan around these questions, among hundreds of others.

    Starting a Climbing Gym: Customers at Latitude Climbing & Fitness
    Just some of the customers who come to Latitude for the climbing.

    Case Study: Latitude Climbing and Fitness

    Virginia’s Latitude Climbing and Fitness is a great example of proper planning and execution. Each of the gym’s three owners utilized their various backgrounds when forming the business: Matt Beck devoted his life to the Navy (and still does); Marisa Beck has a master’s in organizational management and experience as a nurse; and Jason McKenzie has vast accounting, financial and legal experience.

    After moving from San Diego to Norfolk, the Becks noticed their new local market was primed for a climbing gym. The closest outdoor crag for Norfolk’s core climbing community is a six-hour drive from town and, because the region’s geography favors water over rock, many residents had never dipped their hands into a chalk bag.

    A Clear Mission

    A big part of Latitude’s success is attributed to its clear mission from the get-go: to build climbers. Each owner could think back on this purpose when making important decisions. Take gym design, for example. Because many members and guests were new to the climbing scene, Jason and the Becks understood the importance of creating a clean, thoughtfully designed space. They chose a design which ensured new climbers would leave with a desire to come back and hone their skills. They made key choices based on a shared vision.

    Starting a Climbing Gym: Training area at Latitude Climbing & Fitness
    A snapshot of Latitude’s purposefully designed facility, with climbing and fitness offerings side-by-side.

    “We built a full-service fitness facility with state-of-the-art equipment and certified fitness instructors to provide an offering to guests that were not ready to commit to climbing as their primary fitness activity,” Matt said. “We made purposeful decisions to ensure our layout is convenient for our members so they can utilize climbing and traditional fitness equipment during hybrid workouts.”

    The Right Team

    Additionally, the trio divided each partner’s scope of responsibility with full trust: Jason leveraged 15 years of advising clients’ businesses to manage financial and legal aspects; Marisa leaned on her experience in management by building the people-first culture of Latitude; and Matt deployed his problem-solving expertise to find solutions that help drive the gym’s positive operation results.

    “An important aspect to our success has been that we each bring different skills to the table,” Jason said. “The division of responsibilities allowed us to make decisions efficiently.”

    The owners fully trusted each other and stuck to their clear mission. As a result, Latitude became one of the fastest gyms to ever open in the United States. Matt, Jason and Marisa opened the doors in just six and a half months!

    Starting a Climbing Gym: Latitude Climbing & Fitness
    The finished product after all the planning: a welcoming climbing space in Norfolk.

    It’s clear their market research, programming and operational procedures have paid off, because the owners recently broke ground on their second location in Virginia Beach. For Jason and the Becks, the sky is the limit.

    What’s Your Plan?

    There will be numerous moments throughout your entrepreneurial journey when you’ll want to throw in the towel. The key is to believe in what you’re doing and to keep one foot in front of the other – the payoff is always worth your hard work and dedication. Though there are many unknowns, determining the nitty-gritty aspects of your project will stack the deck in your favor when roadblocks and subsequent stress occur.

    Hopefully you feel more inspired and motivated than inundated with tasks to tick off. But if you feel overwhelmed or confused, fear not! We’re here to guide you and provide a detailed map through any step of the process.

    Be sure to stick around for April’s installment of this series in which we’ll review the financial aspect of your project. And don’t forget: you can drop us a line anytime if questions arise. We’d love to help.

    .


    This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

    “Small but Mighty” Bouldering Gym Opening in Pennsylvania

    The homegrown bouldering room of Rock Bottom Climbing. All photos provided by Rock Bottom Climbing

    Rock Bottom Climbing
    Hanover, Pennsylvania

    Specs: The facility spans 3,000-square-feet in total. A bouldering room includes a 20-degree wall, an arête, a cave/overhang, and a traverse wall that is specifically for beginners. A separate section includes campus boards, training rings, and a slackline.

    Walls: “For the walls themselves, we had various different people assisting in construction,” owner Jessica Storm told CBJ. “Instead of contracting out the usual company, I had quite an advantage to have a mother who is a retired architect. She was extremely helpful throughout the design process.”
    Flooring: Dollamur
    Website: rockbottomclimbing.com

    CWA Summit Pre-Conferences

     

    A mural at Rock Bottom Bouldering, painted by owner Jessica Storm’s 10-year-old daughter.

    In Their Words: “I decided a few years ago that this is exactly what our small town needs. Any climbing (outdoors or indoors) is at least an hour’s drive in each direction. It was frustrating to spend my long commute to work each week in the car and then turn around to head to the gym only to be a weekend warrior. It took me a few years of strategic planning and saving to be able to finally take the plunge…Being that Hanover was probably the best location, I knew it would take me some time to find an appropriate building that would accommodate our needs. The search took roughly four months where I finally landed on this location. Although it was smaller than planned, it ended up working out wonderfully and not to mention, a landlord that understood and supported my vision.”
    —Jessica Storm, Owner

    USA Climbing Approves Competition Changes

    USA Climbing Approves Competition Changes
    American athlete Ethan Freudenheim bouldering at the IFSC Youth World Championships in Moscow in 2018. Photo by Joe Robinson

    By Taylor Reed

    Competition climbing in the United States will change – and soon.

    On February 19, USA Climbing’s board of directors approved a large set of recommendations submitted by the organization’s Competition Task Force. These changes range from large to small and impact competition rules, season structures, competitive pathways and qualification standards. They will certainly affect climbing and training structures around the country.

    USA Climbing will begin implementing the changes in the fall of 2020.

    Changes for Youth

    The board of directors approved large structural changes to the youth division. This division will now split into two competition tracks: a qualifying series and a recreational series. Young climbers 17 years old and younger who prefer a “fun, low-stress” atmosphere can now opt to compete in the latter.

    In the qualifying series, climbers 11 years old and younger (Youth D) will no longer compete at the national championships. Instead, Youth D climbers competing at the regional championships will now qualify for a “climbing festival.”  The festival will consist of “skills-focused competitions and workshops for athletes, coaches, and parents.”

    The structure of the competition season for young climbers will also change. The youth bouldering season will start later and overlap with the youth sport season in January and February. Additionally, the entirety of the youth speed season will overlap with the youth bouldering and sport seasons.

    Trango Holds Pardners

     

    Changes for Adults

    The approved recommendations of the Competition Task Force include changes for adult competitors as well. The competition climbing season for adults will now consist of an expanded national cup series, in addition to the national championships and team selection event of past years. A recreational series may also be created for adult climbers in 2021.

    In the past, the adult bouldering season typically took place apart from the adult sport and speed seasons, with its own national championship. Now, single events in the adult and youth divisions can involve all three disciplines, including adult national cup events. However, competitors are not required to compete in all three disciplines.

    Other recommendations in the final report are less precise but suggest more changes are on the way. An increase in standards for qualifying events will have implications for routesetters, for instance. In addition, recommendations related to competition rules leave room for significant modifications, as USA Climbing seeks to align itself more closely with international competition rules. Finally, collegiate competitors can look forward to USA Climbing’s pursuit of climbing becoming a recognized NCAA sport.

    If you are connected to competition climbing in the United States, the full 8-page document is worth a read. It also outlines USA Climbing’s reasoning and the benefits they believe will come out of these changes. It is unclear what will happen when, but the breadth and scope go beyond simple summary. The document outlining the approved recommendations can be found here.