Climbing Insider News Weekly: November 27

Climbing Insider News Weekly: November 27
Photo by Daniel Gajda @gajdaphotography
Climbing Insider News Weekly: November 27
Photo by Daniel Gajda @gajdaphotography

Just a few thoughts.

Our annual traditions haven’t looked the same this year, but there’s still plenty to be thankful for. We can be grateful that climbing comps are finding a way forward. If you need some ‘me time’ ideas this week, check out the European Champ finals this weekend, catch up on the people making USAC and IFSC events possible, or treat yourself to the high drama of American comp climbing. Stay thankful this season, and stay smart.

Content for Climbing Insiders

Climbing Gyms – The Modern Community Centre (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“It was always more than exercise. Where conventional gyms might boil down to fitness, a climbing facility is built around a community. It is a second home, a place where people gather and grow. It is unique.” – Noah Walker

A Poem, To The Girl Who Feels Pressure To Define Herself (Allison Vest, Gym Climber)
“Let this poem be a mantra of sorts. Permission to be the full, multifaceted version of yourself and to shine so brightly that you blind those who would try to snuff you out.” – Allison Vest

Why do shopping malls remain open while indoor climbing centers have to close? (Kristin Horowitz, Cal Matters)
“We’re not looking to sue anyone. We’re not looking for handouts. And we’re fighting against the impulse of every business owner out there who wants to defy the government orders. We know we’re safe.” – Kristin Horowitz

Video: Iuliia Kaplina’s Greatness Hidden By The IFSC’s Failure (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

Calling All Climbers – Mentors Needed (Access Fund)
“Mentorship can be a collection of small things. But they add up, and it is the small things that will make the difference between a community that accidentally ruins the places it loves and one that protects them.” – Access Fund

Upcoming Virtual Events

IFSC European Championships Nov 21-28

No Man’s Land Showings Oct – Nov

Vertical Life Film Tour Nov – Dec

REEL Rock 15 Global Online Premiere Dec 15

O.R. Winter Online Jan – Mar

Trango Holds Pardners


CBJ Original Articles

Most Recent COVID-19 Wave Results in Gym Closures
“Cases of COVID-19 have been on the rise at a national level, part of what many medical experts consider to be a fall spike in the ongoing pandemic…and climbing gyms are just one of the many types of businesses directly impacted.”

Endless Combinations: CHNR October Grips Wrap (Zachary Joseph)
“October saw more climbing holds being released all over the world as climbing gyms continue to navigate the pandemic period. New holds always bring a smile to everyone’s face…We hope you love this as much as we do!” – Zachary Joseph

CWA Seeking Data to Influence Reopening Policies
“Your responses will directly impact the numerous states who are facing closures and help us argue for industry-specific guidelines for you and for gyms around the world.” – CWA

Beta for Gym Managers

Update from Marc Norman, CEO (USA Climbing)
“USA Climbing’s guiding principle is to ensure the well-being of athletes, which means providing safe and healthy opportunities to continue climbing. We can do this by following local and state guidelines and we remain positive about providing in-person Championship event experiences in the future.” – Marc Norman

Video: New Wave of Reclosures (CWA Community Call)
“This may be the first time that we join together to fight against some regulation, but it’s not going to be the last time. If climbing, hopefully, is still going to be in the Olympics in 2028 in L.A., the government is going to regulate us on something…It’s time to start working together.” – Alice Kao

Survey: Help Gather Data for Industry Advocacy (CWA)
“Having an accurate count of each facility’s specifications will help us present industry wide data on the ways that a climbing gym is uniquely poised to mitigate the transmission risks associated with COVID-19.”

CWA DASHBOARDS: OctoberSeptemberAugustJuly

Homewalls + Routesetting + Training

Podcast: Tonde Katiyo – Making a Better World By Making Better Climbers (The Nugget)
“Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world.” – The Nugget

Video: The Best Pull Up Exercises For Climbing (Lattice Training)
“Remember, it’s hard to argue that one form of pull up is “better”…Good climbers (especially those that train) will use a variety across their training lifespan and they’ll use appropriate load, frequency and recovery with each. THIS is the real key to success!” – Lattice Training

Video: Homewall Routeseting – Blocker Holds (Kegan Minock)

HWOW: Adjustable Backyard Board in Idaho
“Our town was hit hard by covid in March — with positive case rates equivalent to Wuhan at one point. I used to coach a youth team, and my boss’s kids stopped going to school the first week of March, so I thought it would be a fun project to do with them.” – Steff C.