Climbing Insider News Weekly: March 12

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Climbing Insider News Weekly: March 12
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

It’s an understatement to say that the climbing industry wouldn’t be what it is today without the work of the women leading it. Women gym owners, directors, managers, marketers, routesetters, coaches, guides, supervisors, coordinators (did we say routesetters?) and countless more professionals have been bettering our organizations and communities since climbing’s beginnings. This time of year is a great reminder to celebrate the women in yours.

Stuff for Insiders

Q&A with Chelsea Rude, Founder of She Sends Collective (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“My goals with She Sends Collective are to unite women (cis + non-cis), GNC + nonbinary humans through climbing and facilitate easier access to high level climbing coaching, nutritionists, sports psychologists for personal growth and education.” – Chelsea Rude

IFSC Celebrates International Women’s Day with “Women of the Wall” Virtual Roundtable Event (IFSC)
“I am truly honoured to launch this initiative. Nowadays, the celebration of women reaches far beyond International Women’s Day. For the IFSC to host this event, it is a great sign of the recognition given to the work of women throughout the climbing community…” – Debra Gawrych

Finding Balance in the World of Competition Climbing (Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh, Gym Climber)
“On the last day of the competition, my mother and I talked to five other girls…who likewise wanted to climb. Together, we descended upon the local sport office. We demanded a women’s climbing program, and faced several rejections until, after a few months, we succeeded!” – Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh

Bouldering in the Big Easy: New Orleans Boulder Lounge’s Inclusivity and Diversity Efforts (Madeline Taub, Gym Climber)
“The first is a three-tiered pricing system: standard, access & equity, and sustainer…The access & equity level allows people to pay less than the standard price to “mitigate economic barriers caused by social injustice.” The sustainer level gives people the chance to pay more…” – Madeline Taub

 

Gym Manager Beta

Dr. Erica Pan – “I think indoor climbing is low risk.” (CICC)

Promote Mental Wellbeing in the Workplace (Holly Chen, CWA)
“As vaccines roll out, many of us may feel like we’re coming around the corner with the COVID-19 pandemic. Still, it is essential to remember that the pandemic’s effect on mental health and wellbeing can go beyond the initial immediacy of the crisis.” – Holly Chen

Timing Is Everything: Age-Appropriate Training For Kids (Heather Reynolds, CWA)

Join The CWA Industry Practices Committee (Garnet Moore, CWA)
“This group of industry professionals will help rewrite the current “Industry Practices: A Sourcebook for the Operations of Manufactured Climbing Walls…Some of the key areas we will address include flooring, autobelay operations, facility orientations, and climbing wall worker training.” – Garnet Moore

Routesetting + Homewalls + Training

Can Watching Climbing Videos Improve Your Skills? What Science Suggests (Jasmin Honnegger PhD, UK Climbing)
“Practically speaking, just like in any training without setting an intention or goals, it seems unlikely that you will find benefits from simply watching videos of climbing. However, employing certain strategies based on scientific findings can help to optimise this experience for you.” – Jasmin Honnegger

Video: Homewall Routesetting R.I.C. Scale (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Video: Resetting the 45 Degree Board (Lattice Training)

CBJ Originals

DEI Connections Database: Submit Your DEI Initiative
“If you run an organization that offers inclusion initiatives such as regular social events, discounted rates, scholarships/grants, or any other opportunities that aim to increase access and participation of underrepresented groups…we want to raise awareness of your programs.” – Kai Lightner

Tokyo Olympics Sport Climbing Roster Now Complete
“Today we have concluded our Qualification process: we know the names of our first Olympians and it is a great moment in our history!” – Marco Scolaris

New Climbing Holds and Volumes of February 2021

The Spot Acquires EVO Gyms in Colorado
“After nearly 20 years in operation, I’m thrilled to continue expanding the unique culture we have built in Boulder and Denver. Members and customers get more options for their climbing and value for their dollar, and our larger staff will enjoy new career opportunities. It’s a win-win-win all around.” – Dan Howley

New Canada Gym Expands Bouldering in Greater Toronto
“When we began, we set out to create a gym that would grow the climbing community and so we wanted to be as accessible as possible for new climbers. We chose Vaughan, Ontario, because Vaughan is an underserved community for rock climbing…” – Michelle Vanderheide

Walltopia Announces a New Equipment Lease Financing Program