Climbing Insider News Weekly: July 1 2021

Climbing Insider News Weekly: July 1 2021
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

Sexualization of athletes – especially women – has been in headlines of late, and rightly so. There is a long history here, and hopefully this moment leads to reflection and real change. As the Olympics approach and the spotlight on our sport intensifies, now more than ever is time for all of us to take the high road.

Insider Stuff

Place-Making in Climbing and the Importance of Welcoming Spaces (Jes Layton, Climbing)
“The spaces I ended up finding myself in were not hyper masculine and heteronormative at all, but inclusive, diverse…We cheer each other on and celebrate all of our journeys, different as they may be.” – Harry Lee

CEC Adopts Transgender Inclusion Policy (Climbing Escalade Canada)

Video: Body Inclusivity In Sports Panel feat. Dr. Gaudiani, Drew Julsey, Nikki Smith (Caroline Treadway)

Video: Red Bull Creepers – Action and Huge Falls (EpicTV)

Olympic Athlete Profiles

Meet the Olympic Climbing Team USA (John Burgman, Climbing)

Meet the Olympic Climbers You’ve Never Heard Of (Owen Clarke, Climbing)
“That’s what’s craziest to me. Those people are my idols, and now I’m competing against them…I’m also sure it’ll make me push myself even harder.” – Erin Sterkenburg

The Dream – Olympic Tactics with Sean McColl (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“If I climb well and other people make small errors, I could win. On paper, am I the best? No. Does that matter? No. This is a game. This is a competition.” – Sean McColl

Olympic Wildcard Colin Duffy May Be the Youngest Climbing Competitor – and the Spoiler (Delaney Miller, Climbing)
“[Colin is] extremely coachable. I think one of the most coachable kids I’ve worked with. He wants to be the best he can be. And he recognizes that his coaches can help him achieve that.” – Ryan Arment


Olympic Commentary

Climbing to make its Olympic debut at Tokyo Games (AP & USA Today)

The Olympics Are in Tokyo, Is Team Japan Poised to Beat Everyone? (John Burgman, Climbing)
“Of course, keep in mind that part of the fun of making predictions is watching them fall apart. No matter who earns the medals, climbing at the Olympics this summer will surely be a phenomenal show.” – John Burgman

Team USA’s Secret Weapon – Head Coach Josh Larson (Dave Wetmore, Climbing)

Meet the Next Gen Olympic Hopefuls Gunning for Paris 2024 (Delaney Miller, Climbing)
“Yes, of course, future competitors are going to come from coaches and gyms all over the country, but the new place is undoubtedly Salt Lake City.” – Delaney Miller

Alex Johnson and the Gift of Not Going to the Olympics (Alex Johnson, Climbing)

Innsbruck World Cup

Videos: Watch Innsbruck World Cup Highlights (IFSC)

Video: How to Watch Climbing World Cups Like A Pro (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

Raboutou’s Masterclass Performance Continues Season of a Lifetime, While Ondra and Others Slip Off (John Burgman, Climbing)

Grossman and Garnbret Battle, Broadcaster Apologizes for Sexualizing Coverage (John Burgman, Climbing)
“I’m an athlete and here to show my best performance. To be honest I do really feel so embarrassed to know that thousands of people saw this. We need to stop sexualizing women in sports and start to appreciate their performance.” – Johanna Färber

IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 Report (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)

Routesetting & Coaching

(Route)Setting Good Standards – Professional Development Days (Haley Moran, CWA)
“As routesetters, so much of our paid time is strictly concerning what is on the wall at that very moment. However, each time I’ve given our team large chunks of time to discuss theory or body mechanics or even just what their most recent crazy idea is, it has always been beneficial for our team.” – Haley Moran

Video: Homewall Routesetting – Upside Down Start in a Roof (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)


What Many Climbing Trainers Get Wrong – Coaches are easy to find. Good ones aren’t. (Steve Bechtel, Gym Climber)
“No plan works forever, and no plan works for everyone. Any coach who is not taking the time to adapt training plans to each individual is ignoring his or her main job, i.e., helping athletes get better.” – Steve Bechtel

CBJ Originals

World Cup Champion Bailey and Hanna Get Into Hold Shaping (John Burgman)

Arizona Gym Working to Help Reduce Poverty in South Africa (John Burgman)
“Every organization can benefit from looking outward rather than just looking inward. Climbing is more than just a passion for us. Climbing has the power to unite others, inspire others, and positively change a life.” – Chris Tansey

A Family’s Vision Gives Rise to New Southern Gym (John Burgman)
“After many months of planning, a pandemic, and a lot of prayer, the dream of Crux Climbing LLC is now a reality…We are so thankful and appreciative of how the community has supported us and all the climbers that have been enjoying the gym so far.” – Carissa Scott

HWOW 63: Colorful Wall in Basement