Climbing Insider News Weekly: April 30

Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

About 99% of climbing gyms in the latest CWA survey have reopened and are on the mend, but it’s not all smooth sailing from here. After months of closures, restrictions and limited funding, gyms still need your support to recover. Take 2 minutes to help yours and show your support of the GYMS Act by emailing your local congress member today.

P.S. – tickets are now on sale to the Salt Lake City World Cups next month.

Insider Stuff

Ask Your Representative to Support The Gyms Act (CWA)
“The GYMS Act will create a $30 billion fund to provide grants to impacted businesses included in the law. Climbing facilities would be eligible for grants…” – CWA

Climb United Route Name Task Force (AAC)

Are Route Names Pointless? (Taimur Ahmad, Climbing Mag)
“[Names] can be profound or personal, rude or racist. That’s what we’re grappling with right now as a community. We’ve woken up to the fact that, whether we meant them to or not, the words we attach to climbs have power—and every once in a while, are unworthy.” – Taimur Ahmad

How it Feels to be a Fat, Female Climber (Emmie Harrison-West, UK Climbing)
“I know now that I deserve to take up space when I exercise, and I always have. It was other people’s perception of my body that was harmful, but I know that I have reached my own version of happiness and they have a big hill to climb to reach theirs.” – Emmie Harrison-West

Why You Should Enter a Climbing Competition, Even if You Suck (Corey Buhay, Climbing Mag)
“All you can do, I realized, is try hard, accept the results of that effort, and move on without letting yourself get absorbed in a future that hasn’t even happened yet. Today, that’s still one of the most vital lessons about climbing—and about life—that I’ve ever learned.” – Corey Buhay

Routesetting Insights

Video: Jacky Godoffe – Philosophy of Routesetting (BoulderamaTV)

Video: Interview with Percy Bishton – Head Setter for Olympic Bouldering (Niklas Wiechmann, Beta Routesetting)

Video: Homewall Routesetting Myths Debunked (Kegan Minock, Doughjo Setting)

Training Tips

Video: Finger Injuries in Climbers (Lattice Training)

What’s So Special About Board Training Anyway? (Christopher Schafenacker, Rockstar Volumes)
“Training boards are the new cool in climbing. Or, they’re the old cool made new (and cooler)…Modern training boards offer a better effort-invested-to-gains-made ratio than just about any other training tool and, if that weren’t enough, you can fit one in your garage.” – Christopher Schafenacker

Video: Optimal Rest Interval Between Climbing (Eric Hörst, Training4climbing)

Podcast: Top 5 Ways to Shorten Climbing Sessions Without Sacrificing Quality (The Power Company)

Trango Holds Pardners


CBJ Originals

Legendary Cordless Brand Returns for a Limited Time (John Burgman)
“Cordless was not the first company to make commercial Crash Pads…But Cordless was the first company to really acknowledge bouldering—not only for what it was, but for what it could be.” – Clark Shelk

We All Have a Story: Behind the Desk with Lynnette Miller (Jackie Hueftle & Joe Robinson)
“I gave myself permission to feel nervous, anxious or uncomfortable in certain situations…I knew that mentally I was doing this to myself. That the only way I was going to get better was to push myself, believe in myself, and if it meant falling in front of my idols, so be it.” – Lynnette Miller

Scolaris, Gawrych Re-Elected as IFSC President, Secretary General
“My goals are to do everything in my power to give our organization the solid foundations it deserves.” – Debra Gawrych

CWA Survey Shows Gyms on the Mend, but Still Need Your Support

What’s an Employee? Granite Insurance Weighs In
“…the W2/1099 status of an employee versus a contractor is only that worker’s tax status. The line of “employee” or “not an employee” shifts a bit when it comes to insurance purposes specifically.” – Ruthie Lile

HWOW 54: Funky Backyard Roof Homewall

Climbing Gym Management Series