Climbing Insider News Weekly: March 19

Climbing Insider News Weekly: March 19
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

In our new normal, we keep finding ways to enjoy the sport we love. National Team Trials are getting ready for next week (our own March Madness comp). The Tokyo Olympics roster is finally set. Gyms in CACOONMITX and elsewhere are expanding their climbing. And new grants and programs are making it more accessible. It’s punny saying it this month, but it’s still true: we march on.

Stuff for Insiders

The Weight – Finding Strength Through Ability, Not Disordered Eating (Liz Weber, Gym Climber)
“In the past five years, endurance athletes have stepped forward with their own stories of eating disorders…In a sport that rewards a conflicting combination of lightness and strength, where every pound means added drag, climbers are just as susceptible.” – Liz Weber

The Story Behind The First Black Female Route Developer in Texas (Delaney Miller, Gym Climber)
“It’s not just my story that I’m telling. This is the story of everyone who has something that they want to do, but didn’t really see themselves represented in that area and thought, I’m going to go for it anyway.” – Bree Jameson

Urban Boulders and Lifesaving Training Equipment (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“To make the Lifesaving Wall even more accessible, [OnSite CEO] Larose decided to move with a monthly-payment platform. This allowed climbers to spend as little as $46 a month for a professional-grade climbing wall.” – Noah Walker

Comp Talk

Video: Women of the Wall – An IFSC roundtable (IFSC)

Video: Canada’s Competitive Climbing Plan with Christiane Marceau (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)
“CEC Executive Director Christiane Marceau discusses coaching through COVID, strengthening the CEC’s reputation within the community, building a more effective competition season, and the possibility of hosting a future World Cup…all on a precarious budget after the sale of major sponsor MEC.” – Tyler Norton

2021 USAC Collegiate Divisional & National Championships Cancelled (USA Climbing)
“While conditions are improving across the country significant risks remain and with many colleges and universities limiting club sport participation it became increasingly clear that hosting Divisional and National level Collegiate competitions was simply not feasible. Athlete safety is our highest priority.” – Marc Norman

Gym Manager Beta

Video: Inside Voices Info Session (CWA)

Trango Holds Pardners


Managing Youth Behavior Issues In The Gym (Headwall Group)
“It is important for youth programs to have clear behavior policies and guidelines for climbers, families, and coaches to reference. Then, any instances of challenging behaviors can be looked at in the context of these guidelines…” – Headwall Group

CICC winds up activities without a clear win (CICC)
“The win, of course, is that we now know one another and can reach out for support, commiseration, and anything else that happens going forward.” – CICC

CBJ Originals

Getting a Gym Ready for National Team Trials During a Pandemic (John Burgman)
“This will not be a normal competition, but at least we are able to host a competition and allow athletes to come climb, compete, and have fun. All in all, it will be a different experience but still a top-notch event that competitors have come to expect from High Point and USA Climbing.” – John Wiygul

HWOW 48: Retooled Garage Family Wall

Thrill Seeker Holds