Climbing Insider News Weekly: Jun 4 2021

Climbing Insider News Weekly: Jun 4 2021
Photo by Daniel Gajda @gajdaphotography

Just a few thoughts

It’s hard to imagine a better ending to the long week in Salt Lake City: back-to-back victories for Natalia Grossman and one for Sean Bailey, a sweep of the final bouldering podium and six medals altogether for USA on their home turf, and a new men’s speed world record (twice) on the same weekend. The psych for comp climbing is high…and with under 50 days to go until Tokyo, it’s safe to say the peak is yet to come.

Insider Stuff

Video: President Biden delivers remarks on VA fully reopening from Sport Rock Alexandria (NBC12 Richmond)

Climbing Offers Refuge and Hope for Children in War Torn Lebanon (Delaney Miller, Climbing)
“In the end, I know that my action in Lebanon was very modest and that these young people brought me much more than what I gave them.” – Katherine Choong

With Their New Project, Brown Girls Climb Plans to Shake Up the Climbing Space (Keely Dickes, Climbing)
“By uplifting BIPOC-owned businesses and corporate partners investing in significant change, BGC could point the way to another route for people’s investments.” – Keely Dickes

Injured? It’s Probably Your Fault (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“As members of the climbing community we have an obligation, not only to ourselves but to all other climbers and gyms out there, to take responsibility for our own actions when we step into a gym.” – Owen Clarke

SLC World Cups: The IFSC Videos

Video: Veddriq Leonardo SHOCKS the world with another world record!

Video: SLC Speed World Cup Finals Full Event

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 2 Qualification Highlights

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 2 Semi Finals Full Event

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 2 Finals Full Event

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 1 Qualification Highlights 

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 1 Semi Finals Full Event

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 1 Finals Full Event

Video: SLC Boulder World Cup 1 Finals Highlights 

SLC World Cups: Summaries

Americans Dominate World Cup – Sean Bailey and Natalia Grossman Take Gold (John Burgman, Climbing)
“For tonight, the two best competition climbers in the world are Americans Sean Bailey and Natalia Grossman.” – John Burgman

World Record Falls Again in World Cup Final – Emma Hunt (USA) Takes Silver (John Burgman, Gym Climber)

IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 Report (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
“We didn’t come here for the victory, we came here to break records.” – Veddriq Leonardo

Janja Garnbret Dethroned at SLC World Cup (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“This cements Grossman as a World Class athlete among a World Class field…It will become exciting to see what becomes of the field, how much these results functioned from the home-field advantage, and how much stemmed from a new set of elite climbers.” – Noah Walker

Capitan software


SLC World Cup: Commentary & More

Video: Meagan Martin on Coaching Brooke & Natalia, Asian Speed Surprises, Injuries About, feat. John Burgman (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

As Climbers Head to Olympics They Can Expect Doping Tests (John Burgman, Climbing)
“Whatever the extent of current PED usage in climbing, the Olympics will bring increased publicity and participation to the sport, resulting in an infusion of money. With that could come greater temptation and greater means for breaking the rules.” – John Burgman

Raboutou – Predicted to be Top 5 in Tokyo (

Everything But the Results. Armchair commentary on the latest SLC World Cup (Delaney Miller, Gym Climber)
“Everywhere you look, our sport has grown and is growing by Olympic inclusion. The already highly enthusiastic community has become that much more so.” – Delaney Miller

Training & Routesetting

Video: Homewall Routesetting – Setting a Comp Style Boulder (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Video: How to Climb on Pockets Without Getting Injured (Hooper’s Beta)

Video: Shoulder Stability Exercise for Climbers (The Climbing Doctor)

Video: How to write a climbing training plan (Lattice Training)

CWA Info

Video: Inside Voices – Who’s ready to get back to the climbing gym!?

2019 Indoor Climbing Industry Report Now Available

Hiring Membership Coordinator

Retail Webinar Series (6/2 to 7/14)

CBJ Originals

Letting Go of an Idea: Behind the Wrench with Aaron Davis (John Burgman)
“Sometimes things just don’t go the way we intended, and that’s OK. Letting go and embracing a different idea or concept can often lead to the best climbs.” – Aaron Davis

Historic Textile Mill Will Become an Indoor Climbing Haven
“…alterations made to the actual building were pretty limited because of the protection around it. We respect the history of the property and feel that the design fits the space perfectly.” – Will Snader

Hiring Business Apprentice

HWOW 59: Outdoor Multi-Angle Family Wall

Thrill Seeker Holds