Climbing Insider News Weekly: January 15

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Photo by Cameron Maier @Bearcam
Photo by Cameron Maier @Bearcam

Just a few thoughts

There’s an uncomfortable feeling when starting something new. Whether taking over a small business, taking a leap of faith and launching a new gym project, beginning to project anti-racism or establishing the first climbing wall in a country, it’s often a bumpy road with some degree of unknowns and risk. If you’re feeling this way, you’re not alone, and maybe it’s a sign to steer into the curve.

Content for Climbing Insiders

Video: Olympic Climbers – Rishat Khaibullin (Albert Ok)
“Rishat Khaibullin is the Kazakhstan Olympic representative for climbing. Find out who he is, how he got here, and what it’ll take him to win in this video.” – Albert OK

Climbing In Cambodia Takes Root (Karel Downsbrough, Gym Climber)
“From the start, Ito was impressed by how quickly some of the local kids took to climbing. Most of them were already used to climbing up coconut trees and were unafraid of the heights involved. An idea grew inside him: a dream of forming a Cambodian National Team that could one day represent the country in the Olympics.” – Karel Downsbrough

Ouray Ice Fest Preps For Its Biggest Competition Yet (Corey Buhay, Rock & Ice)

Double Vision – Rock and Ice and Climbing Magazines Come Together (R&I, Climbing)
“Rivals for 36 years, the two publications are now one. The intertwining will let us publish a magazine that—we hope—is a grade better than anything each could do separately.” – the editors, Rock and Ice, Climbing

Podcasts with Kris Hampton

Podcast: Mario Stanley – Coaching Better Humans (The Power Company)
“His big personality translates to his mentorship. It’s powerful and you know without a doubt that Mario has your back. I appreciate that from a coach – and from a friend.” – The Power Company

Podcast: The Dr. Dre of Rock Climbing (Sends And Suffers)
“A double digit climber himself, Kris sent his first 5.14 and V11 in his 40’s, proving that his training brings the results and that age definitely ain’t an excuse.” – Sends And Suffers

Podcast: Taylor Fragomeni – Routesetting and Coaching from the Female Perspective (The Power Company)
“Taylor Fragomeni is a routesetter, coach, and all around genuine human. We sat down at my house while Taylor was traveling…to talk being female in the routesetting industry and lessons that she’s taken from routesetting into coaching.” – The Power Company

 

Training Tips

Slow the Pump Clock – Three Strategies to Prevent the Pump (Eric Hörst, Gym Climber)
“It’s a fact that the very best climbers are all strong, yet not every strong climber becomes the very best. The difference often lies in the subtle areas of economy of movement and the ability to prevent the pump and maximize recovery on a climb.” – Eric Hörst

New Year’s Training – Board Climbing Week 2 (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“Progression, in bouldering, is dependent upon the individual’s ability to sacrifice the more social side of a training session for the uncomfortable positions training puts us in.” – Noah Walker

New Year’s Training – Hangboard Week 2 (Noah Walker, Gripped)

Video: How To Take Care Of Skin Splits – Jonathan Siegrist Style (EpicTV)

Gym Manager Beta

Climbing Centers in WA Reopening (CICC)
“At the end of 2020, we shared our material with climbing center owners in Washington. Being in a similar situation as us, they lobbied and had a major victory. ” – CICC

Can climbing be done safely during COVID? WA to find out with reopening of indoor gyms (Stacia Glenn, The News Tribune)
“To open a climbing gym takes millions of dollars, and there are gyms at risk of collapsing. The regulation has been fitness and climbing gyms are dangerous, but the data is not showing that.” – Tod Bloxham

U.K. Climbing Gyms Seek Government Support During Pandemic (Gripped)
“Places for people to exercise and train will be more important than ever when the pandemic starts to ease, and we must make sure that indoor walls are there for people to return to.” – Paul Davies

CBJ Original Articles

Strati Climbing: Utilitarian Masterpieces
“Thousands of climbers have touched these floors, never knowing what went into them. You could say that a floor is just a floor and a company is just a company. Unless it is not. Unless it is vinyl and foam carved into a utilitarian masterpiece.” – Strati Climbing

Walltopia Commits $10 Million to Growing the Climbing Industry
“We are starting this initiative because when we beat the virus (which we will, it’s a matter of time), there will be a rush to reclaim our lives, for people and businesses alike.” – Ivaylo Penchev

Launching New Phoenix Gym Took a ‘Leap of Faith’
“The climbing community in Phoenix is growing and Gecko Climbing Gym seeks to facilitate that growth, celebrating the sport’s progress and debut in the upcoming Olympics. We believe in the life-changing elements of climbing, where our motto invites you to ‘Elevate your life, rise above your crux and inspire the world to ascend!’” – Chris Tansey

HWOW 39: A Father’s Homewall in the Shed