Climbing Insider News Weekly: December 11

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Photo by Cameron Maier @bearcam
Photo by Cameron Maier @Bearcam

Just a few thoughts.

Kris Hampton’s advice about remote coaching is important, but the application doesn’t end there. When cramming before holiday deadlines, it may be helpful to remember that sometimes doing less is more. This week, what do you need to say “no” to before you can say “yes” to what matters more?

Content for Climbing Insiders

Podcast: Alex Johnson (The Nugget)
“Alex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model.” – The Nugget

A Message to Climbers from Meagan Martin (Access Fund)
“Climbing gives us so much. And we owe these special places more than just a debt of gratitude. It doesn’t take much. If every climber gives $20, we’ll be well on our way to a more sustainable future for climbing.” – Meagan Martin

Video: WCS Keynote – Connie Lightner (Women’s Climbing Symposium)
“In the second keynote of the Women’s Climbing Symposium’s tenth anniversary year, the wise and wonderful Connie Lightner discusses the joys and challenges of supporting young climbers and how to promote diversity, equity and inclusion in our sport.” – WCS

Sport Climbing Officially Added to Paris 2024 Sports Programme (IFSC)
“It is astounding to look back and see how much we have achieved since our foundation in 2007…We are as prepared and determined as we have ever been to make a brilliant debut at Tokyo 2020, and an even better encore at Paris 2024.” – Debra Gawrych

2020 Athlete Election – Vote Now for Athlete Directors (USA Climbing)

Upcoming Virtual Events

REEL Rock 15 Global Online Premiere Dec 15

No Man’s Land Showings Oct – Nov

O.R. Winter Online Jan – Mar

 

CBJ Original Articles

Can We Actually Coach Climbing Remotely? (Kris Hampton)
“The best coaches often say less. That’s because for athletes (or anyone for that matter) to learn, they have to struggle with it themselves. Moving through the three stages of motor learning takes time and effort.” – Kris Hampton

Climbing Legends Sharma and Speed Discuss Industry Changes (John Burgman)
“Teach people through the indoor environment…and with that comes more responsibility, I think, to talk about leaving no trace and understanding ethics at the crag.” – Boone Speed

USA Climbing Alters Youth Season as Gyms Lock Down (John Burgman)
“USA Climbing’s guiding principle is to ensure the well-being of athletes, which means providing safe and healthy opportunities to continue climbing.” – Marc Norman

Climbing Gyms and COVID-19: Délire Climbing Walls Creates “a Perfect Gym”
“A perfect gym is open and easy to move around in even if it’s full. There is a warm space for before and after climbing. In this space we celebrate, we relax, we dream of our future.” – Jean-François Beaulieu

ASCL Opens Registration for 2021 Shortened Season
“Young climbers grow up to be the lawmakers deciding the future of our public lands; the leaders who bring compassion and empathy towards others―all others…Yes, the ASCL teaches climbing and, more importantly, teaches us how to be better humans.” – Theresa Morris

Homewalls + Routesetting + Training

Podcast: Stop Blaming the Routesetters (Kris Hampton, The Power Company)
“The title says it all. We do it too much. We blame the routesetters for our own failings, our own shortcomings, our own lack of commitment, our own destructive ego. It’s not their fault. Here’s why.” – Kris Hampton

The Female Climber – Training in Sync with your Hormone Cycle (Maddy Cope, UK Climbing)
“It is important to understand the length, or any variation in length, of our cycles. Our cycle is a marker of our health and changes in length or disruption to our cycles can be an indicator of overtraining, stress, or low energy availability (a mismatch between fuelling and energy expenditure).” – Maddy Cope

Video: Miho Nonaka Skips Holds to Get to the Top – Beta Break (Albert Ok)

Tips on Warming Up for Climbing (Bonnie De Bruijn, Gripped)
“Warming up before you climb contributes to the prevention of long-term, chronic injuries as well as immediate injury. It can also help your immediate climbing performance.” – Bonnie De Bruijn

HWOW: Backyard Boulder with Infinite Traverse