The Project: The Hardest Route Set


Magnus Midtboe in action. photo: © Bjorn Pohl

The hardest sport climb in the world is now at the Klättercentret Telefonplan climbing wall in Stockholm, Sweeden. At least that’s what the organizers of a new competition format are hoping. Dubbed, “The Project” and sponsored by Black Diamond with holds provided by Kilter, the competition features one route which is permanently set at the Klättercentret.

UKC international news editor and organizer of the event Björn Pohl told UK Climbing, “It’s without a doubt the hardest project in the world inside or out. At the same time, it’s set in such a way that it’s possible to try for any average Joe.”

The route starts at about V0 (6a French) gets progressively harder with moves at the top nearing V15 (8c). “Not sure what that adds up to, no one does, but probably French 10 something,” Pohl said. The route will have approximate grades along the way, making it possible to measure one’s progress. (An earlier version of this article mistakenly used a route grade conversion from French to V-scale when it should have been a bouldering conversion.)

“As the route is permanent it will now for the first time in climbing history be possible to have a world record, which everyone can try to beat. It will, of course, be possible to have all sorts of records based on countries, regions, cities, gender, age and so on.”

The launch event was held February 18th and live streamed on Facebook.


Posted by Black Diamond on Saturday, February 18, 2017

Whoever holds the record on the last day of the year gets €1000 and should anyone top it, the reward is €5000, a sum that will keep growing every year. Anybody can try the route but to be eligible for the prize money the climber must by filmed.

Some very strong boulderers like Nalle Hukkataival, Stefano Ghisolfi, Kajsa Rosén, Magnus Midtbø and Jorg Verhoeven have attempted the route without topping. Only time will tell if this project really is the hardest route in the world.

For you setters that want to waist several hours, the prolific vlogger, Eric Karlsson was in Stockholm documenting every day of the setting process with Robert Rundin and Jocke Berglund (who are also the setters behind the Legends Only comp).

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