Augmented Reality Meets Climbing

There’s a new trend in combining digital technology with the real world, what some like to call augmented reality. While climbing gyms are not known for being very high tech, a few gyms have started playing with tools that allows climbers to interact with the digital world. At a recent climbing competition in Germany, competitors took on a special quest: navigating a real-life game of Super Mario Bros. Competitors hopped across tiny, slanted footholds, leapt over pipes, and evaded Bullet Bill in order to physically re-create Mario’s journey. The Mario Bros obstacle course was the final round in a larger one-year anniversary climbing competition and party at the famous Stuntwerk bouldering gym in Cologne. Over in Somerville, Massachusetts, a neighborhood near Boston, a climber and amateur coder has created an entire gaming system, called Randori, that turns a climbing wall into a real-life video game. The game projects a series of white light dots on the wall. When the timer starts, the player uses whatever climbing holds they want to touch the dots and earn points. Visual and audio cues help the players know when they’ve earned points, and the system keeps track of and projects players’ time on the wall. Jon Cheng, creator of the game, told Wired that he is already thinking about his next digital climbing game. “I’ve also fantasized about building a Flappy Bird-style game for climbers,” he says. “I think that could be really fun.”

Spotting Employment Discrimination

discrimination By Jason Pill, Attorney with Phelps Dunbar, LLP Although most climbing gyms are considered very progressive — whether it be their business models, sensibilities, or political leanings — they are still susceptible to the longstanding discrimination issues that can permeate any work place. Most climbing gyms have not been hit with employment discrimination litigation and incorrectly assume they are immune to such issues based on their size, employee base, or merely some bad advice that they received. This assumption, however, is simply incorrect. Employment discrimination litigation is increasing nationally and can result in staggering legal costs, reduced employee morale, loss of business reputation, and a host of other significant consequences for private employers. Despite these issues, most instances of discrimination can be eliminated with proper training and policies and, most importantly, a fundamental understanding of the anti-discrimination laws in place. For climbing gyms hoping to grow and expand, they must ensure they have proper employment policies and practices in place to avoid costly setbacks and maintain a strong workforce. As explained by Hilary Harris, founder and CEO of Evo Rock + Fitness, employees are the heart and soul of any climbing gym and vital to the gym’s success. When employees are treated well, they are less likely to file lawsuits against their employers and help create a better gym atmosphere.

Letter of the Law

Much like a climber would not climb a route without mapping it out first and taking the proper protection, a climbing gym can only prevent employment discrimination if it knows what constitutes employment discrimination and the attendant legal obligations placed upon the gym. The mosaic of anti-discrimination laws that apply to climbing gyms include federal, state, county, and local statutes that prohibit discrimination based on various distinctions or conditions (e.g., Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, the Age Discrimination in Employment Act, the Americans with Disabilities Act, the Genetic Information Nondiscrimination Act, the Uniformed Services Employment and Reemployment Rights Act, etc.). When distilled, these various laws prohibit an employer from treating an employee (or employees) differently than the employee’s peers based on race, gender, religion, national origin, pregnancy, genetic information, veteran status, physical or mental disability, age, sexual orientation, or sexual identity. These categories are commonly referred to as “protected classes,” because the anti-discrimination laws protect these classes of individuals from unfair treatment based on these distinctions. Stated simply, a climbing gym, as a private employer, cannot treat an employee differently because they fall into any of these protected classes. But what does it mean to treat an employee differently? As famously explained by the United States Supreme Court, Title VII (the primary anti-discrimination statute applicable to employers and the statute upon which most anti-discrimination statutes are patterned) is not a “general civility code.” That means that Title VII does not require employers to treat their employees from protected classes better than other employees, just no worse. In fact, an employer can treat all of its employees like dirt—so long as that treatment is equal. Issues arise, however, when employees are treated differently in the terms or conditions of their employment. Although direct examples of discrimination are easy to identify and condemn (e.g., a climbing gym has a policy to not hire African-American employees), many climbing gyms can fall victim to unintended discrimination based on stereotypes or misconceptions (e.g., a climbing gym assumes that a female employee who just gave birth will want to spend more time taking care of her child than getting hours at the gym). Discrimination is not always evident or immediately noticeable, and gym owners must be diligent in establishing anti-discrimination policies, enforcing those policies, and spotting discrimination so that it can be eradicated. A blind eye is no legal defense, and businesses that do not take active measures to prevent discrimination expose themselves to significant legal risks. As part of these active measures, climbing gym owners must understand what discrimination is prohibited and, if a lawsuit is filed, what evidence would help a gym defend itself in court.

The Two Types of Discrimination

There are two general theories for establishing workplace discrimination: tangible employment actions and hostile work environments. Both theories are actionable and an aggrieved employee can simultaneously pursue both theories against an employer. Notably, an employer’s defense will vary depending on the theory asserted by the aggrieved employee. Tangible Employment Action A “tangible employment action” is generally defined as a significant change in employment status, such as hiring, firing, failing to promote, reassignment with significantly different responsibilities, or a disciplinary decision. By their nature, these actions are imposed upon an employee by a supervisor or someone with supervisory authority. Moreover, these actions are typically easier to identify than a hostile work environment and, with proper systems and training, easier to prevent. In the context of a climbing gym, a tangible employment action could be as commonplace as a gym manager terminating an employee, a head route setter taking shifts away from setters, or an owner deciding to only give pay raises to certain employees, but not others. Of course, most of these personnel and operational decisions are made as part of the daily routine of running a climbing gym, and only rise to the level of actionable discrimination when the actions are taken on account of an employee’s protected status (e.g., because she’s a women, of Hispanic descent, a military veteran, homosexual, etc.). If discrimination is alleged, it becomes incumbent upon the climbing gym to demonstrate that its actions were not based on the employee’s protected status (any those categories identified above) or that the action did not materially change the employee’s status. An example better demonstrates these issues. Let’s assume the head route setter assigns herself the hardest routes and also reserves all the best holds for her routes. This, in turn, prevents her male subordinates from using the meatiest slopers and pinches when setting their routes. Has the female supervisor discriminated against her male subordinates who are now relegated to only using the worn down jugs and junk holds to mechanically churn out their V0s and 5.7s? Under these circumstances, although we have a female supervisor taking an action against her male subordinates that impacts their employment and understandably upsets them, it’s far from discrimination. In our example, there is no evidence that the head route setter is keeping these holds away from the male route setters on account of their gender, and it would be tenuous to assert that not being able to use certain holds materially changed the route setters’ employment status (yes, the male route setters may not be as thrilled with their hold selection or setting easier routes, but there are still enough holds for them to set routes and they are still gainfully employed). As the head route setter, she is likely the most experienced setter and, consequently, sets the more difficult routes that often require certain holds which are not appropriate for easier routes. This legitimate explanation for the head route setter’s actions is not based on discriminatory motives and demonstrates why she would have made the same decision if, in this scenario, all of her subordinate employees were women, instead of men. So, there’s no indicia of discrimination for the climbing gym to worry about. Now let’s assume that same head routesetter hires two new routesetters for the gym: an aspiring male setter with little prior experience and an experienced female setter who has set for multiple competitions, worked for more than 10 years as a setter in some of the best gyms in the country, and has a sparkling letter of recommendation from a USA Climbing National Chief Routesetter. Both setters are hired for the same position and start on the same date. The male setter, however, receives a higher starting salary than the female setter. Here, we have a much more concerning employment action that smacks of discrimination, as there is seemingly no legitimate reason to give the inexperienced setter a higher salary than the experienced setter, other than his gender. Although these are overly simplistic examples, they underscore the fact-specific analysis required to spot discrimination. Ultimately, when a tangible employment action is alleged against a climbing gym, the determination of liability will require an analysis of the purported motives of the action and its impact on the aggrieved employee. In response, the climbing gym will try to demonstrate that the employment action at issue was taken for legitimate business reasons, often showing that the decision would have been the same for someone outside of the protected class, thus negating the relevance of an employee’s protected status. fired Hostile Work Environment The alternative theory for pursuing a discrimination claim is a hostile work environment, which can be more difficult for employers to identify. In a hostile work environment, there is not a tangible employment action against an employee. Rather, the employee attempts to demonstrate that a collection of comments or incidents from the workplace (which, under certain circumstances, can include customers) were sufficiently severe or pervasive to materially impact the employee’s working conditions. The difficulty here lies in identifying a hostile work environment, as it is often between coworkers at the same level and may not involve supervisors or owners, and frequently occurs outside of their presence. Unlike a tangible employment action that focuses on, as its name suggests, one action, a hostile work environment is typically a patchwork of incidents that collectively become “severe or pervasive” enough to impact the terms or conditions of the employee’s employment. What exactly constitutes “severe or pervasive” conduct is the source of great debate by attorneys and judges, but essentially turns on whether the incidents at issue (e.g., offensive nicknames, sexually harassing comments, lewd images, etc.) were severe or frequent enough to alter the employee’s working conditions. It’s an inexact science. Rarely will a stray remark be sufficient to create a hostile work environment, but seemingly small incidents or comments can be aggregated together to determine their collective impact on the employee. The key to preventing (and defending against) a hostile work environment is creating, maintaining, and following policies that prohibit workplace harassment and establish a reporting channel that employees can use when they believe they have been harassed. For some climbing gyms, this may seem like an overreaction or undue burden because the staff largely knows each other and climbs together, or in Harris’s words, is “very tribal.” While this sense of community can create a better work environment and stave off disgruntled employees, it can also give the false sense of security or misconception that employees would never harass one another. Despite the appearance of a close-knit workforce, if an employer does not have certain anti-harassment policies and reporting channels in place, it will lose the ability to assert a key defense during litigation and risks exposing itself to potential liabilities that may otherwise be mitigated (and don’t worry—even though Harris values the “tribal” feel of her staff’s relationship, Evo Rock + Fitness gyms still maintain and implement proper anti-harassment and anti-discrimination policies to avoid costly issues).

Do These Laws Apply Even to My Gym?

More than likely, yes. A common misconception for many climbing gyms is that they are too small in either staff or revenue to worry about employment discrimination. In other words, they assume — or hope — that they are small enough to fly under the radar. The reality is that anti-discrimination laws reach almost every employer, in some form or fashion. Although Title VII and many federal laws require an employer to employ more than 15 employees to be covered, many state and local laws require an employer to have as few as 5 or 10 employees to be covered by anti-discrimination statutes. It’s generally safe to assume some collection of anti-discrimination statutes apply to most climbing gyms, and owners should consult with employment attorneys for more specific guidance on the laws and regulations governing their gym. From there, climbing gyms can work with counsel to audit existing policies (if there are any) and develop new policies and procedures to eliminate discrimination and provide a defensible position if the gym is later sued by an employee. The cost to take these preventive measures is much less than the costs of litigation, which can easily include more than $100,000 in legal fees to take a matter to trial (assuming, of course, that the gym prevails entirely and does not owe any money to the aggrieved employee). Savvy climbing gyms should proactively address these problems to minimize both costs and risks, and not wait until a lawsuit has been filed. By then, it’s too late. In climbing, we anticipate the worst and then work backwards from there to check all of our systems and gear; we use extra protection, double back our harnesses, use redundant knots, and so forth. In running its business, a climbing gym must likewise anticipate the worst and implement the proper systems to avoid liability or, in the event allegations are raised, be in the best posture to defend against any legal actions. As such, this article is intended to be a primer on employment discrimination concerns and the preventive measures that can be taken. Following on this theme, subsequent articles will provide greater depth on specific discrimination issues facing climbing gyms, such as disability discrimination under the Americans with Disabilities Act and religious accommodations under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act. If you have other employment law topics you would like covered, let us know. jason-pillIn addition to climbing for the past 15 years and previously managing a climbing gym, Jason Pill is an attorney with Phelps Dunbar, LLP in Tampa, Florida. Jason practices in the area of labor and employment and assists clients in handling unique issues that arise at the intersection of law and technology. He represents employers regarding claims involving employment discrimination laws, wage and hour laws, family and medical leave laws, whistleblower laws, union-management relations, employee benefits, enforcement of non-competition agreements, customer complaints based on denial of service or alleged discrimination, privacy-based claims, and various employment-related torts. He prepares employment contracts, non-competition agreements, personnel policy manuals, employee handbooks and assists clients in implementing and managing technology in the workplace. If you have questions for Jason contact him here. The content of this article is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing legal advice. You should contact an attorney to obtain advice with respect to any particular issue or problem. The reading of or reliance on this article or the Climbing Business Journal’s web site does not create an attorney-client relationship between the author or the Climbing Business Journal and the user or reader.

ABP Epic Opening Set

Get inside the minds of 9 routesetters from around the world as they prepare for the opening of Austin Bouldering Project, a new bouldering gym in Austin, Texas. The 50,000 square foot facility recently opened its doors to the public after nearly two years of construction. The bouldering gym offers 23,000 square feet of climbing surface, with approximately 250 different boulder problems set and rotated every seven weeks. To see more photos of the facility head over to designboom.com

New Gym For BC

On the banks of Okanagan Lake in south British Columbia is the small town of Kelowna (pop: 106,710). Coming to this mountainside town in March of 2016 will be the Gneiss Climbing gym, a new bouldering-only facility owned by first-time operators, and long time locals, Chris and Nancy de Vries. Kelowa has an existing climbing gym, Beyond The Crux, which underwent a remodel in 2015 after a change of ownership. The Gneiss climbing gym hopes to tap into the existing indoor climbing community as well as the large outdoor bouldering scene.
New sign going up at Gneiss.
New sign going up at Gneiss.
Chris de Vries sat down with Squamish Climbing Magazine to find out more about his project. “We have 5000 square feet of floor space with a main bouldering area, separate kids climbing area (with some ropes), work out space and some straight chilling spots.” “Climbing gyms are often limited in success due to lack of space for people to hangout; more climbing surface does not equal better climbing gym. Although I could have added a central boulder or some other features, I opted instead for creative seating and open space, this should promote the sort of social atmosphere and that is a major goal of mine with this project.”
Wall renderings for Gneiss.
Wall renderings for Gneiss.
“Finances are always the biggest hurdle taking on something like this, you have to balance facility you want vs. the facility you need vs. the facility you can afford. Although I dream of providing Kelowna with a facility comparable to Hive North Shore, but at 18,000sq ft is something like that feasible with our demographics? Jason Holowach really helped get me over this hurdle and also acted as a sounding board as I contemplated different scenarios for facility size and amenities. Landing on our space was a huge highlight for us. It was frustrating to look at so many buildings that were either, too big, too small, too far, too dark or too lame. Ours is right in that sweet spot for sustainability and ticked the boxes for height, location and architecture.” Read more about de Vries efforts to bring a modern climbing gym to the Okanagan Valley at Squamish Climbing Magazine.

Gravity Vault Goes Big in 2016

Gravity Vault.
Gravity Vault.
As the climbing gym universe begins to coalesce we’re seeing large, multi-site operators begin to build their empires and spread their brands further afield. One such company is New Jersey-based Gravity Vault, which currently operates three traditional climbing gyms in and around the New York City area. Earlier this month Gravity Vault made a bold announcement that they will be opening four new climbing gyms in 2016. If Gravity Vault can pull it off, it will be the largest number of gyms opened in a single year by a single company. In fact, no US climbing gym operator has opened more than two gyms in a calendar year. GV last opened a facility in Middletown, New Jersey back in 2014. That facility was the first ever franchised climbing gym in the US and something the owners of Gravity Vault, Tim Walsh and Lucas Kovalcik, had been trying to do since opening their first location in 2005. “From the beginning we both enjoyed sharing the sport of climbing…that’s what it’s always been about,” Kovalcik told CBJ. “From the beginning folks would come through the door and say things like, ‘this must be a franchise’, and we always took that as a compliment.”

1st Quarter

To begin their epic year, the partners will open up a new facility in Poughkeepsie, New York which sits on the banks of the Hudson River, two hours north of New York City. The town of Poughkeepsie only has a population of 30,000 people, but the county it lies in, Dutchess County, has nearly 300,000 people. The Gravity Vault facility will be the first commercial climbing gym in the area. Even though this location will be the second franchise for Walsh and Kovalcik, franchisee and Poughkeepsie owner, Mark Davidson, hopes to bring a few changes to the way Gravity Vault does business. One major change will be the wall builder. All of Gravity Vault’s previous facilities have used Rockwerx as their builder of choice. For this new project, Davidson choose Walltopia. In an interview with Peak Magazine he said, “We like it because it’s new and also we’re trying to build a brand,” Davidson said about Walltopia. “It’s not the real rock feel that Rockwerx has.” Another modern upgrade will be the way routesetting is done. Davidson is keeping up with the modern trend of monochromatic setting. That is, using the color of the hold to dictate the route line and not a piece of colored tape. “We have 10 different colors of climbing holds. Each color will signify a climbing grade level or range of grades. This is just like taping each hold with colored tape except we use the hold color itself, so the walls are much cleaner and routes easier to follow,” Davidson explained to Peak Magazine. One thing Davidson is not changing is the amount of climbing. All of the GV locations are under 14,000 square feet of climbing (SFC). The Poughkeepsie location will feature 13,000 SFC. Features include: a three-inch crack, a one-and-a-half-inch crack, a chimney and a 22 foot lead arch. All in all, there will be 70 top-rope lines, 15 lead only routes and nearly 100 linear feet of bouldering wall.
The Poughkeepsie building under construction.
The Poughkeepsie building under construction.

Wait, There’s More

Walsh and Kovalcik told CBJ that in the second quarter of 2016 they hope to open a facility in Melville, New York, which will not be a franchise, but instead will be corporately owned. Melville is a suburb of the Town of Huntington, which sits in the middle of Long Island an hour and a half from New York City. Long Island, and especially Huntington, is a very attractive place for gym operators. In fact two other major gym developers, The Cliffs and Brooklyn Boulders, have recently opened facilities in the area. Melville sits at the intersection of two of the busiest roads in the New York area, in an area with some of the highest family median income at $170,881. In June GV passed their first round of zoning challenges with the approval of a Special Use Permit. Their next stop will be an appearance in front of the Huntington planning board. Also happening later this year will be GV’s entry into the potentially lucrative Philadelphia market. This new gym will be located in Radnor Township, just outside Philly and between two other commercial climbing gyms, both of which are operated by Philadelphia Rock Gym. (Philly Rock Gym is also opening a new facility in 2016, twenty miles from the new Gravity Vault). The Radnor gym will be a franchisee operated facility, making it GV’s third franchise license.
Building rendering for the new Gravity Vault - Hoboken.
Building rendering for the new Gravity Vault – Hoboken.

Hoboken

Rounding out the year for Gravity Vault will be a new location in Hoboken, New Jersey. Hoboken is directly across the Hudson River from Manhattan and has the fourth highest population density in the US. Even though the gym could be accessed by millions of potential customers, the road to opening the doors has not been a slam dunk. “The Hoboken market is something that we’ve been after since 2007,” Walsh said. The two partners grew up in Bergen County, where Hoboken sits, and particularly like the changing demographics of the area. In a town that’s only a square mile the major challenges for GV center around the acquisition of a suitable building. In 2014 GV was courted to be part of a $110 million dollar multi-use redevelopment project that included a bowling alley, a bar, restaurant as well as a live-performance venue. There were also plans for a 12 story residential structure in the middle. Even though this project met all the proposed goals of the Mayor, the city’s master plan, and what the City Council has outlined in recent months, it was denied a zoning variance and the project was mothballed. Then a year later the GV team partnered with a different development firm and found a suitable building a few blocks down the street at Willow and 15th Streets. They had yet another trip to city hall to go in front of the Hoboken zoning board to get approval for their zoning variance. “We had a lot of community support at the last zoning meeting in Hoboken,” Walsh said. “We had tons of people showing up to three different zoning meetings all wearing Gravity Vault shirts in support and getting up and giving testimonials about why they should approve our application.” On November 30th of last year, Gravity Vault was given the OK to move ahead with remodeling the vacant single-story warehouse. Walsh and Kovalcik hope to have their Hoboken facility open by the end of the year.

Growing, Growing, Growing

With this kind of development, Gravity Vault is becoming a major player in the North East climbing gym market. When they open these four new gyms GV could become the 6th largest gym operator in the US based on square feet of climbing (the total amount of climbing is still unknown), and would be tied for second place (with Hangar 18) for number of facilities in operation. And they’re not done yet. In the last 12 – 18 months they’ve received multiple queries from large venture capital groups as well as well funded private equity partners. Even though it’s part of their strategic plan to expand outside of the northeast, Kovalcik tells us they want to focus on the local market first. “Especially in the franchise world, when you open with franchisees you want to support them well and secure their success as much as possible by being at their disposal.” As the brand grows and gets stronger those franchisees are getting easier to find. Walsh said, “We still have a lot of interest, and it’s important that Lukus and I get together with these groups and individuals and make sure, not only that they’re a right fit for us, but that we’re a right fit for them.” More and more that interest is coming from serious global developers. The pair have received calls and met with a number of groups interested in bringing an established climbing brand to their country. Though they wouldn’t be specific about where, they did say the interest is coming from Asia, Europe and the Middle East. “We just financially qualified a group from Asia…these guys are big time. They’re not looking to build a single location, they’re looking to do multiple locations,” Kovalcik said. Recently at the International Franchise Expo in New York City, the partners made contact with several interested parties, two of which came from different countries specifically to experience and learn more about the Gravity Vault brand. “They weren’t there for anything else,” Walsh said. To help with international expansion, the GV team includes a franchise advisory group that has experience in all aspects of business including taking a brand overseas. This group is helping GV to create an international package for prospective applicants. If Gravity Vault can successfully take their brand to the international market it would mark the first time a US climbing operator has expanded to another country. They know that getting there won’t be easy. “We’re doing it very, very cautiously, with the help of our franchise group,” Walsh said. Kovalcik added, “We’re going to take our time and be well educated about it.”

Ice Climbing Finals In Bozeman

UIAA bozeman finals_vimeo from UIAA – Climbing & Mountaineering on Vimeo.

Full recorded coverage of the UIAA Ice climbing finals in Bozeman, Montana. Speed ice climbing followed by “ice” climbing at the 1:32:00 mark.

Singapore Brings Climbing To Abandoned Railway

In Singapore there is a railway that was constructed in the 1920s, when trains would travel from downtown Singapore across the sea into Malaysia. In 2011 those tracks were abandoned and left to nature where only bird watchers and hikers dare visit. Tech Insider is reporting that the city now has plans to completely redesign the 15 mile area and call it, the Green Corridor, into a series of community spaces, including a rock-climbing cave underneath a highway.
Rendering of the planed Green Corridor project in Singapore.
Rendering of the planed Green Corridor project in Singapore.
“This is an excellent opportunity to transform the Corridor into a very special community space that is more than just a park,” Humphrey Sew, a spokesperson for Singapore’s Urban Redevelopment Authority, tells Tech Insider. The plans call for a long stretch of green spaces outfitted for different activities. Parts of the old railway tracks are elevated, but most are on ground level. The design features bike and pedestrian paths with spots for eight different activities, including yoga, growing vegetables in an urban farm, and watching wildlife.

The 2016 Grip List Awards

grip-list-2016-header Welcome to the 3rd annual Grip List! CBJ collected votes from North American routesetters as to which climbing hold company was their favorite in 2015. The voting process was the same as last year but this year only the top 5 companies will be given the “Official Selection” award. This was due mostly to the fact that the top 3 brands received 52% of the votes leaving the companies in 6th – 10th place with percentages in the single digits. Like the last two years, we are continuing to hand out the “Favorite Hold Company of All-Time” award. Since this is the first year we’ve limited the list to five companies we felt that our readers would like to know which brands were in 6th through 10th place. So we begin the 2016 Grip List at #10 with Metolius which followed Climb-It at #9. The So Ill Climbing boys held strong at #8. Making their first entry on the List and coming in at #7 is Swiss grip maker, Flathold, which was right on the heels of the stalwart purveyor of plastic, eGrips at #6. Click or scroll down to see the awardees: ElementFlatholdKilterKingdomRock CandyTeknik
This year we are also adding a new category, “Favorite Volume”. This is awarded to the company that received the most votes for North America’s favorite volume. The winning company does not have to only produce volumes but can make bolt-on holds as well. We would be remiss if we did not mention that Motivation Volumes came in a very close 2nd place in the volume category.
grip-list-2016-winner-volume

Flathold

Taking the first-ever Favorite Volume award is Flathold. Coming straight out of Switzerland, this volume and hold company made a huge splash earlier this year when they hit the North American climbing scene. Even though Flathold makes bolt-on urethane holds, it was their all black, sloppy scoop volumes that lit up the imagination of setters. Within the year these volumes started transforming America’s climbing walls and made setters job that much more enjoyable. One voter commented, “Hands down the best giant-terrible slopers. There’s a reason they’re in almost every large gym in America.”
Flathold Volumes.
Flathold Volumes.
Until recently most popular volumes were made of wood and tended toward the geometric. Flathold instead produces volumes that are made out of lightweight fiberglass with smooth rounded edges. This new style allows setters to bring moves into the gym that climbers previously have not been exposed to. “Their shapes lend themselves to a unique style of climbing that is rarely seen in the typical climbing gym. It offers customers a chance to step out of their usual focus, it is fun to watch them be thrown for a loop,” wrote one Grip List voter. Other companies make rounded fiberglass volumes but it was Flathold that really blew the lid off the market. Flathold’s founder, Manu Hassler, an IFSC Chief setter in his own right, has amassed an impressive collection of some of the best setters in the world to help sell Flathold around the world. This includes IFSC Chief Setter Laurent Laporte, US-based International Chief Chris Danielson, and the world renowned guru Tonde Katiyo, currently residing in Canada. This team along with Hassler’s partner Mathieu Achermann are showing the world that their Swiss penchant for perfection is what setters want. One voter’s comment sums it up nicely, “I had never set with Flathold until this year, and man I’ve been missing out! Simply put, they have near perfect volumes that are well worth the price!”
grip-list-2016-official-selection

Element

Element Climbing is the nerdy neighbor you had as a kid but never talked to while in school. They may not live in the hippest neighborhood, Georgia, or have the slickest marketing, but they know who you really are and what you really need. If they could hug you through the Internet they would. They’ve been supporting climbing gyms since 2008 by giving them some of the best value for the price, as well as a super refined gym ordering system. They aren’t afraid to dig into the science of grip making which is evident by their new NEO-LITH GT urethane mix. In fact Element is the only company in the top five to produce their own holds in-house. We’re not talking a dingy garage operation either. These guys operate a top notch pour house that other up-and-comers are signing on to. In 2015 Element brought to market almost 200 new shapes and signed shaping icon Louie Anderson as their lone hold rep (Anderson also reps for Kingdom and Kilter). EC did drop one spot from their 4th place finish last year, but remains one of the major players on the North American climbing hold scene.

Rock Candy

rockcandy_2 The Rock Candy crew, led by Nathan and Liz Yokum, made huge strides in 2015, moving up 7 spots and back onto the Grip List! They’ve always been one of the top brands on the market but this past year was a particularly good one. Over the last 12 months they’ve put out 150 new shapes spread throughout four new sets. This includes Nathan Yokum’s original Gastropods series, which are a slopey yet juggier version of their ever-popular Corpolites, as well as the new Jaspers which also fall into the slopey-juggey category. In fact one voter commented that Rock Candy has, “Positive holds for steep terrain that are NOT jugs.” As CBJ wrote back in August: “All those new shapes will definitely get the attention of buyers and setters and prove that quality and quantity overcome hype any day.” The Yokums also completely re-tooled their online gym ordering form, making it one of the best in the biz. They did all this and opened a bouldering gym, The Rock Mill, in their home town of Akron, calling it a “tasting room” for their holds (plus raise two kids!). They have been building their brand since 2007 and continue to deepen their market presence by hard work and smart marketing. Their plans to grow Rock Candy, as well as the climbing gym, are not over yet.

Teknik

teknik-all-time What can we say about Teknik that hasn’t been said before? Setters have been loving their simple designs and comfortable grips for 16 years. They’ve created some of the most iconic and classic shapes ever made. And that’s why Teknik has once again been voted “All-Time Favorite Hold Company” for the 3rd year in a row! “Classic! What do they make that setters and climbers don’t like? That would be a short list if any at all,” wrote one Teknik voter. “Classic line with nothing but classic shapes,” wrote another. As great as their established line is, and it is great, many setters are loving the new shapes that came out in 2015. Teknik founders Zoe and Seth Johnson brought to market 155 new shapes including the Cobra Commander and Geomatics, which were by far the most talked about holds Teknik recently put out. They also decided to bring back an early millennium favorite, the Plats, the molds of which were destroyed years ago. They’ve re-shaped the Plats and expanded the line to include larger and one-handed versions. They also produced what could be considered the ultimate simple shape, the Geo Flats, which are basically a volume with no volume.
Teknik Geo Flats.
Teknik Geo Flats.
Most Grip List voters mentioned Teknik’s clean simplicity as the reason for all the praise. “They didn’t invent simple shapes but they did master them,” wrote one voter. And another said about Teknik, “Simple shapes that are still so much fun to climb on, subtle differences and variations that keep them interesting after all this time.” Teknik doesn’t put out nearly as many shapes as other companies and they’re not known for flashy marketing…or marketing at all. But it doesn’t seem to hurt them in the least. They are still the company that all others hope to emulate.

Kingdom

Kingdom Owner Mark Bradley getting ready to make some greatness.
Kingdom Owner Mark Bradley getting ready to make some greatness.
The one word used most to describe Kingdom Climbing is massive. “Kingdom and their massive sets with massive features couldn’t have gotten anyone more stoked to put up some real quality routes and problems,” said one voter. And that goes along with Kingdom’s philosophy which is: Bigger is Better. Yes they make some of the largest holds on the market but they also have some of the largest theme sets in the business. One voter said, “Their sets have enough holds in them to create full routes with a [shared] aesthetic through the line, and enough diversity in difficulty to force creativity.” After being at the top of the mountain last year, Kingdom dropped one spot on the Grip List to 2nd place. This is still an achievement for a company that is only a few years old. In that short time Kingdom has created what are sure to be perennial favorites. The new Fragments and Lugs are as good as it comes for incuts and jugs. They’ve also introduced what they are calling ‘Emperor’ size. Some of these new Emperors, like the Rok Blok, measure in at 38 inches long and stick off the wall 14 inches!
Kingdom's Rok Bloc Emperor.
Kingdom’s Rok Bloc Emperor.

Kilter

kilter_triptyk Taking the grand prize on this year’s Grip List is Boulder-based Kilter Climbing. And this year Kilter dominated! From the moment the Grip List survey went live Kilter started racking up the votes. They regained the top spot after a 3rd place performance in 2015 by releasing nearly 400 new shapes! But quantity will only get a hold company so far. They must also have a line that setters are drooling over and can’t wait to get their hands on. And Kilter has done that by bringing to market a line full of the go-to holds that make a route pop and have climbers tripping over themselves to get their hands on them. Ian Powell, the burly visionary behind Kilter, has created an aesthetic that is fundamentally different than anything on the market yet is so very familiar to setters. “In my opinion, they are finding the path to achieve the balance between great looking and highly functional holds in a solid way,” said one voter. From their unique foot holds and slab slopers, to their Kaiju line of mega sized features, Kilter is giving setters everything they want. “Kilter offers a line-up of shapes that suit every style of wall a gym can offer. From small holds that act as your meat and potatoes to the big shop pieces, they have it all.” One of the other aspects that put Kilter over the top was the love customers heaped on the Kilter website, especially their 360 degree rotation photos. Other companies have tried to do this but Kilter is the first to really nail it.
Kilter 2XL Pinches by Alex Puccio
Kilter 2XL Pinches by Alex Puccio
If one peaks into the Kilter shaping studio in Boulder, they will find hundreds of finished foam shapes waiting to be molded. These shapes, all carved by Powell, are arguably even better than what’s out right now. Powell is also bringing in some new flavor with his Haptic line, which is sort of a brand within a brand. Just this year Haptic released an additional 300 new holds. These holds are shaped by pro-climbers like Alex Puccio and Jimmy Webb, as well as pro-routesetters like Keith Dickey and Jeremy Ho. Doing the bulk of the Haptic shaping is the very talented Will Anglin, whom if you don’t know of him yet, you soon will! The unrelenting drive that Powell puts in to everything he does will continue to push Kilter in to the future, and force everyone behind him to play catch up.