Climbing Insider News Weekly: March 5

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Climbing Insider News Weekly: March 5
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

In many ways, the communities that form at gyms start with the community forged by the industry behind the gyms. During hard times, partnerships help move us forward and give us confidence to seize opportunitiesfind bright spots and keep up the psych. Hold those relationships close, and keep finding ways to support your partners and show your customers appreciation.

Stuff for Insiders

Pusher Holds – Climbing’s Most Iconic (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“Pusher is made from passion. From [Jared] Roth to Boone Speed to Mike Call to Chris Sharma to David Bell to Steven Jeffrey, Pusher has worked exclusively with people motivated by their love for climbing. This means that they have an attention to detail that is more than clinical, but personal.” – Noah Walker

Alberta Climbing Gyms Allowed to Reopen (Gripped)
“Alberta’s climbing gyms have been closed since the first week of December 2020. On March 2, they’re allowed to open for the first time in 2021.” – Gripped

Introducing Outside Business Journal (Climbing Mag)
“…We invite you to check out our newly rebranded sister publication, Outside Business Journal (OBJ). Formerly known as SNEWS, OBJ has been covering the business of outdoor recreation for 37 years.” – Climbing Mag

Black-owned outdoor business spotlight: Coral Cliffs (Alex Temblador, Outside)
“Abby Dione became the first queer Black woman to own an indoor rock climbing gym when she opened Coral Cliffs 10 years ago. She has made her indoor climbing gym a safe space for BIPOC, women, LGBTQ+, and young climbers.” – Alex Temblador

 

Comps: Opinion + History

Genesis – Our First Pro Comp Was the Most Conflicted (Alison Osius, Rock & Ice)
“There had never been a big-scale international comp on these shores. A few regional bouldering comps, yes. This was different, a turning point—and a flash point.” – Alison Osius

Should unhealthy climbers be allowed to compete? (8a.nu)
“One of the official goals for IFSC is to promote climbing “as a healthy and educational activity for youth…Possibly, the IFSC could go even further by prohibiting athletes under a certain BMI from competing?” – 8a.nu

Video: Are the best climbers really getting YOUNGER? (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

IFSC 2021 Updates, Two Climbers Still Not Officially Qualified for Tokyo (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“Jongwon Chon and Chaehyun Seo, South Korea’s male and female qualified climbers for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, are still yet to be officially listed as confirmed, qualified athletes on the IFSC site.” – Owen Clarke

Routesetting + Homewalls + Training

Podcast: Chatting with Enrico (Kasia Pietras, Routesetting Exposed)
“Enrico came to the US from Italy and his perspective on routesetting and coaching is definitely something worth listening to!” – Kasia Pietras

Video: Homewall Routesetting – What is Complexity? (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Optimising Strength Training and the Menstrual Cycle (Maddy Cope, UK Climbing)
“Understanding your menstrual cycle in order to get the most out of training is largely about body literacy: building an awareness of the cues your body gives you at different phases of your menstrual cycle and understanding how these impact your training.” – Maddy Cope

CBJ Originals

Michigan Gym Expansion a Bright Spot in COVID-19 (John Burgman)
“I just love this perspective of DIY and all the stuff that we had to do to get it done—even the hiccups… It gives a lot more personality to it, a lot more character, and a lot more feeling of appreciation for it.” – Paulie Abissi

Mesa Rim and EP: Partnerships Move Us Forward
“The North City installation crew came together during a pandemic to not only successfully construct one of the premier climbing gyms in the country, but to do it under extenuating circumstances and while staying healthy throughout the duration of the project.” – Bryce Benge

HWOW 45: Serious Basement Steepness