Climbing Insider News Weekly: May 28

Climbing Insider News Weekly: May 28
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

It feels good to finally be moving forward. To see World Cups happening again in the US and Americans on the podium, industry leaders like the IFSC recovering from the pandemic and innovating, and gyms continuing to build communal spaces in new places. Whether through scholarships or other ways, be sure to keep generosity in mind along the way, for all those not enjoying the same privileges.

Insider Stuff

Summer trade shows: Who’s attending Outdoor Retailer and The Big Gear Show? (Andrew Weaver, Outside Business Journal)
“We’re living through the shoulder season of the most disruptive global crisis in a century, though, and the August shows are by no means a return to ‘normal,’ as we hoped for so long they might be.” – Andrew Weaver

The Drug Runners – Meet the Legends Behind Chalk Cartel (Climbing)

Meagan Martin, Madaleine Sorkin, Steph Davis to Headline Women’s Fest in Colorado (Alison Osius, Climbing)
“If anything in my experience can help a young girl, that’s amazing and that’s what I want to make happen…If you don’t gain that confidence early, you have to figure it out as a woman: Believe in yourself, trust yourself, stand your ground, go after what you want and don’t apologize for it.” – Meagan Martin

Access Fund Announces 2020 Climbing Advocate Awards (Access Fund)

2021 Annual Climber Survey (AAC)


SLC World Cups: The IFSC Videos

Video: Boulder World Cup SLC Semi Finals Full Event

Video: Qualification Highlights

Video: Boulder World Cup SLC Finals Full Event

Video: Finals Highlights 

Livestream: World Cup SLC Speed Finals (5/28/2021 @7:55pm)

Livestream: Boulder World Cup SLC Semi Finals (5/30/2021 @10:55am)

Livestream: Boulder World Cup SLC Finals (5/30/2021 @4:40pm)

SLC World Cups: Summaries

IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 Report (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
“This first event provided something we haven’t experienced in a long time: a competition atmosphere. While a huge crowd is still slightly unnerving for many, it was a novelty to hear cheering and the athletes were visibly feeding off this energy and revelling in the sense of normality that it brought.” – Natalie Berry

Adam Ondra and Natalia Grossman Win Gold In Salt Lake City (Francis Sanzaro, Gym Climber)

Adam Ondra and Natalia Grossman Win the World Cup (Noah Walker, Gripped)

Best friends Natalia Grossman, Brooke Raboutou rep Team USA atop climbing World Cup podium in Salt Lake City (Julie Jag, The Salt Lake Tribune)


SLC World Cup: Commentary & More

One Climber Covid-19 Positive at SLC Boulder World Cup (Gripped)
“International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and USA Climbing inform that one athlete tested positive for COVID-19 out of the over 150 tests that were run on Mon. May 24.” – IFSC

The scoring system is too complicated for the commentators (

Ondra comments on his victory in SLC (
“During the whole race the boulders were quite technical, the profiles were not very overhanging and rather than strength or technique or agility it was more about finding the simplest possible way.” – Adam Ondra

Only 65 competing in Speed in SLC (

Video: Pete Woods’ IFSC Commentary Debut, Mejdi and Natalia Impress, Shauna Fights Failure, Feat. John Burgman (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

Training & Routesetting

Developing Mindful Eating Habits for Climbers (Shaina Savoy, Trainingbeta)
“You should feel satisfied and satiated after meals, and your eating habits should support your life and performance. They should leave you feeling empowered and motivated, not drained, fatigued and hungry.” – Shaina Savoy

Video: Neck Pain Climbing and Belaying (The Climbing Doctor)

Video: Routesetter Reacts to Routesetting Video (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Video: How A World Champion Climber Trains In Her Basement (Red Bull)

CWA Info

Video: Harness the Power of Retail Panel Discussion

The Five Types of Youth League Parents (Hailey Caissie)
“Parents have spent more time with their children the past year homeschooling, overseeing dining room Zoom, and more. As we open our doors and rebuild our communities, it’s important to focus on parents who are coming in and engaging with children most effectively.” – Hailey Caissie

Now Hiring: Membership Coordinator

Retail Webinar Series (6/2 to 7/14)

CBJ Originals

IFSC Unveils Inaugural “Mixed Team” Event in Salt Lake City (John Burgman)
“With a team competition, this element of always having action on the field of play—I think it is really important, and also from a spectator’s point of view there’s always something to watch.” – Alessandro Di Cato

Ask A Lawyer: the Legality of Scholarship Programs (Jason Pill)
“There will be no way to remove all subjective elements, but eliminating those considerations and focusing on objective criteria will better position the gym to evaluate applications and explain its rationale if ever challenged by a rejected candidate.” – Jason Pill

IFSC Annual Report Highlights Ups and Downs in 2020

New Brooklyn Boulders Gym Coming to Heart of D.C.
“We’re committed to making climbing accessible to anyone with interest and, we plan to be very intentional about weaving facets of the community into the gym experience.” – Martin Adler

HWOW 58: Massive Homewall in Former Church