Climbing Insider News Weekly: May 21

Climbing Insider News Weekly May 21
Photo by Anna White @annacaterinaphoto, courtesy of The Riveter

Just a few thoughts

In some ways, running a gym as we exit a pandemic can be as complicated as when we entered. But like at the beginning, communication around wearing masks is key, and so is following CDC, CWA and local guidelines and data. Our gyms are still here thanks in large part to the generosity of our members and the hard work of our staff teams. Keep being intentional about the spaces you build for them, even when standing on shifting ground.

Insider Stuff

Video: Got Milk? Commercial Has Eldo Walls On 30th Floor Roof (Milk Council)

These 4 Women Are Some of the Best Climbing Coaches in the Biz (Ilana Newman, Climbing)
“It is hard to become what you cannot see. It is important to have women in positions of power within the climbing community so that young girls know what is possible. It is important to show Black women standing on a podium. It is important to show Indigenous women running climbing businesses. It is important to show Latinx women training our youth. It is important to show adaptive climbers sending hard.” – Ilana Newman

4 Lessons On Entrepreneurship From World-Class Climber Kevin Jorgeson (Kyle Westaway, Forbes)
“In many ways, climbing the Dawn Wall is similar to building a company. Both are audacious tasks and risky ventures that require: 1) belief and confidence, 2) laboring in obscurity, 3) strong partnerships and 4) pushing the limits of your capability.” – Kyle Westaway

Video: The future of indoor climbing (Magnus Midtbø)

Olympics & Comps

Team Canada Heads to Salt Lake City World Cup (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“Although the event will be the second Bouldering World Cup of the season, the field differs greatly from last month’s event in Meiringen. While the Americans will feature many of the same athletes, some climbers will compete for the first time since lockdown began.” – Noah Walker

Two Salt Lake City WC weekends – half of the Olympians missing (

Meet Tom O’Halloran – Olympic Qualified Athlete From Down Under (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“I was 8 years old when the Sydney Olympics were held in 2000…I didn’t know any of the athletes or anything but just watching how the Olympics brought everyone together was incredible. From then it was just like, ‘I want to be an Olympain.’” – Tom O’Halloran

Video: O Que Podemos Esperar Das Olimpiadas De Toquio? Feat: John Burgman (Revista Blog de Escalada)

Video: Routesetter Reacts to Insane Competition Moments (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Indoor Climbing Expo Register Today


Routesetting & Movement

Podcast: Catching up w/Nohl (Kasia Pietras, Routesetting Exposed)
“…I believe that the gym opens up the idea of climbing to be able to climb anything. The skills that I’m trying to promote in my routesetting, or get somebody to understand when they come in to session, being proficient in all these movements and techniques can help you climb anything, can help you ascend anything.” – Nohl

Video: Interview with Team USA – Josh Larson & Mike Bockino about the SLC Training Center and more (BETA Routesetting)

Video: Homewall Series – How to Get Started with Your Own Homewall (eGrips)

Video: 4 Technics for coordination problem (Tomoa/Akiyo/Ikedai)

Training & Rehab

5 Tips for Improving Your Climbing Efficiency (Eric Hörst, Training4climbing)
“The technical paramount is to climb with perfect economy. Make those two words, perfect economy, your mantra every time you touch the rock.” – Eric Hörst

Video: How to Heal From a Lumbrical Injury (Hooper’s Beta)

Treating “Climber’s Elbow” – Rehab and Prehab Protocol (Eric Hörst, Training4climbing)

Video: Coaching & Training Principles with Stian Christophersen & Mobråten (Lattice Training)

Retail chalk from Chalk Cartel


CWA Info

Retail Webinar Series (6/2 to 7/14)

What Does The CDC’s New Guidance Mean For Climbing Gyms? (Garnet Moore)
“To reflect the CDC’s new recommendations, the CWA has revised the Roadmap to Reopening for climbing gyms. There are a number of different mask and distance policies a gym may choose to implement depending on your local guidance.” – Garnet Moore

Shining Light On Eating Disorders In Climbing (Jake Byk)
“A lot of my clients want to lose weight, and my first conversation with them is, do you actually want to lose weight, and do you need to lose weight, and is that the primary thing that is actually going to make you a better climber?” – Neely Quinn

Engaging Staff On Retail Engages Customers Too (Tood McCormick)

Now Hiring: Membership Coordinator

CBJ Originals

The “Monster” Climbing Legacy of Jim Karn (John Burgman)
“There’s practically an idealized template now—in 2021—for being a successful professional climber…But someone had to establish that model, and prove that it could be a viable pathway.” – John Burgman

Former Gym Employee of The Pad Involved in Tragic Shooting
“The Pad Climbing and our climbing community is hurting alongside the greater community due to the senseless loss of life, and we will continue to work towards healing.” – Kristin Horowitz

Walltopia Stories: the Highest Altitude Climbing Wall
“…if donating those panels to KCC can help save the life of a single Sherpa by helping them acquire necessary skills, the company is happy to help. Sometimes the smallest project can make a big difference.” – Walltopia

Now Hiring: Business Apprentice

HWOW 57: Kidwall Got Family Into Climbing

Vertical Solutions