Video: Failed Petzl Gri Gri

A video posted to the Routesetters Anonymous Facebook page shows a Petzl Gri Gri found during a routine equipment check that no longer functions correctly.
“Ever seen a failed Gri Gri? Not many have. In fact when I emailed Petzl they said that they had never encountered a failure like this one. I just discovered this Gri Gri failure during routine safety checks this last month. Albeit rare, it’s still a good reminder to keep up on safety checks, always use good belay technique, and put safety backup knots in the tail end of the rope when working on a rope route setting. For reference this one was used on a kids wall top rope anchor it’s whole life (date stamped 2006).”

USAC and Entre-Prises Extend Partnership at Nationals

ABS Nationals Wall.  Photo: Huey Photography
ABS Nationals Wall. Photo: Huey Photography
At the American Bouldering Series Open National Championships this past weekend in Madison, Wisconsin, the competition featured the newly designed bouldering wall from Entre-Prises USA. The wall is part of a 5-year deal between Entre-Prises and USA Climbing. In 2012 EP became USA Climbing’s Official Partner and Official Climbing Wall and Hold Sponsor. In January of 2015, they extended the agreement through 2019. “Supporting our National Governing Body is part of our culture since the beginning of EP,” said Todd Chester, EP Product Manager. “We have been involved with climbing competitions since the 80’s and continue to support national and international organizations that build healthy competitions for everyone.” USAC’s CEO, Kynan Waggoner, told CBJ, “EP has a track record and history of providing great competition climbing walls to some of the biggest events in the world.” In fact EP has been sponsoring competition climbing in America since the first US World Cup at Snowbird in 1988, and built the bouldering and climbing walls for the ESPN X-Games. “It seemed natural for USA Climbing to partner with Entre-Prises after the completion of our previous 3 year agreement,” Waggoner said.
Noah Ridge getting it done at ABS Open Nationals.  Photo: Huey Photography
Noah Ridge getting it done at ABS Open Nationals. Photo: Huey Photography

Wall Design

The design of the new wall has been a closely held secret with no photos or wall renderings released before last week’s event. Along with EP’s in-house design guru, Grant Ortman, USAC enlisted the creative talents of Chris Danielson, an international routesetter and climbing wall design consultant, to come up with a competition wall that would test the climbers on all skill sets. “The three main wall types (low angle, slight, steep) and the variable configurations can help us test climbers across as many diverse styles as possible,” said Danielson. “It helps us give them the opportunity to demonstrate their unique skills.” Danielson has helped design a number of commercial climbing facilities including Sender One’s Santa Ana and LAX facilities in California, Ascent Studio in Ft. Collins, CO, Vertical Adventures in Columbus, OH, and Stone Gardens in Bellevue, WA. He has also honed his design chops over multiple iterations of USAC comp walls: from the original Pyramid wall used at UBC events and the Vail World Cup from 2008 – 2011, to both versions of EP’s bouldering wall. EP’s new wall is a refinement of the previous bouldering wall, which was used from 2012 to 2014 at ABS Nationals and the Vail World Cup. “Whereas the original EP wall was one of greater extremes, with big slabs and massive steep bays, the new wall is intended to balance out those extremes with more mid-range overhanging options,” Danielson said. For EP’s Todd Chester, the largest difference between this year’s and last year’s wall is the addition of “adjustable sections and ensuring everything is interchangeable with the previous wall,” he said. “This allows the diversity for different skill levels, scaleable to the event needs and continues to prioritize install and disassembly times.” Danielson, who was also on this year’s ABS Open Nationals routesetting crew, believes the wall is as important as the holds and the volumes used. “It is just as integral to the feeling of a competition and the results it creates as any other element of the equation,” he said. “But considering the walls or the actual routesetting, we are not determining the outcome of the competition but rather creating situations that challenge the climbers to manifest their own results.”
Photo: renoyounggun.blogspot.com
Original EP wall from 2014. Photo: renoyounggun.blogspot.com

The Two Shall Meet

Even though USA Climbing has a new bouldering wall, that doesn’t mean it’s time to retire the old EP wall. The original wall will be re-paneled with the light grey and pink color scheme that is used on this year’s wall, and it will be given a fresh coat of EP’s new wall texture. USAC’s Waggoner said they have no intention of selling the old wall. Instead they will keep the wall for future events. “We will have an infinite amount of different wall angles and orientations to choose from when we next host an event,” Waggoner said.

Adaptive Climbers Compete at ABS Open

Ronnie Dickson.  Photo: Adaptive Climbing Group.
Ronnie Dickson. Photo: Adaptive Climbing Group.
Kareemah Batts, President of the Adaptive Climbing Group, announced that for the first time in history, two adaptive athletes will be competing in USA Climbing’s ABS Open National Championships. The two parathletes, Ronnie Dickson and Corey Ramos, are veteran competitors in the paraclimbing circuit, but this is the first time they are competing against professional climbers at an Open Championship event. Ronnie Dickson is a board member of the New York based Adaptive Climbing Group, and was one of the team captains for the 2014 USA Paraclimbing team that competed at the IFSC World Cup in Spain. He brought home silver in the amputee category. Corey Ramos is out of Atlanta and represents Catalyst Sports.

Vertical Adventures Teams With ABC on Training Center

Photo: Vertical Adventures
Photo: Vertical Adventures
Vertical Adventures, based in Columbus, Ohio, was seeing exponential growth in all areas of operations and needed to expand. After a long real estate search the VA team found a property mere blocks from their original location and set to work building what they called in their press release, “Ohio’s first indoor rock climbing facility to be designed and built from the ground up for climbing.” The new 15,000 SF building, which opened doors to members in November 2014, houses 16,000 SF of wall space, a huge step up from the 6,000 SF the members were used to at the original facility. So what to do with the old gym? Instead of tearing down the climbing walls and selling off the building they decided to remodel and open it as a dedicated training facility for their growing youth competitive team. “Though the walls aren’t new, they are well-designed, and it would be heart-breaking to all of us to see them go away,” Matt Roberts, VA Team Coach, told CBJ.

From Old to New

Climbing teams are gaining popularity and growing bigger every year. As attendance rises these teams put additional pressure on their host gyms. Youth competitors need space on the wall and on the ground to train for upcoming competitions, and the more space they occupy the less space is available to regular members. “Our youth program continues to explode. For the last two sessions, every class we’ve offered has filled. When we’ve added more classes, they’ve filled, too,” Roberts said. “There is always tension between program-and membership-based business that makes keeping up with that growth difficult.”
New Vertical Adventures training area.  Photo: VA
New Vertical Adventures training area. Photo: VA
“A full gym and a robust youth program will always mean compromise,” Roberts noted. “Adult members’ experience is compromised by the crowding that the youth program would bring, and the youth experience is compromised by having to set for commercial membership. With two gyms, we can have the best of both.” During construction of the new Vertical Adventures location the management anticipated that the new gym would be as full as the old one within a year. But would a stand-alone training facility be profitable? Due to the location, a quarter mile away, the VA team has the freedom to think about the training facility as an extension of the “big gym”. If it were further away Roberts said they would “probably just keep the original gym open under a membership model.”
Photo: VA
Photo: VA
Creating a business plan for a training facility was relatively easy and Roberts hopes to break even quickly. What’s harder to calculate is the financial impact it will have on the main gym; is there a financial return to providing a space that is not overrun by hyper-active children multiple evenings each week? For Roberts and the owners it really came down to keeping their eyes wide open and making sure the members and the Youth Team were happy. “If it permits more and happier members at the new gym, and it allows us to better serve the youth program then that is a big win for the business,” he said.

Enter ABC

The new VA training center is only the third dedicated climber training gym in the USA. As such the VA team knew they needed to make sure they were doing everything they could to make it a success. So they enlisted the help of ABC Kids Climbing out of Boulder, Colorado. ABC Kids Climbing was created in 2004 by Coach Robyn Raboutou and is quickly becoming a dominating force on the youth comp circuit. ABC Kids licenses their training curriculum to Momentum in Utah and Planet Rock in Michigan. Vertical Adventures is the newest facility to sign on with ABC. According to JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson, ABC Kids Marketing Director, the license includes, “The brand, facility design, staff training and comprehensive curriculum for all pre-school and early elementary classes.”
New Monkey Pavillon at Vertical Adventures. Photo: VA
New Monkey Pavillon at Vertical Adventures. Photo: VA
Teaming up with ABC was an easy choice for the VA team. “When we first visited ABC Kids – Boulder, every detail in the gym was oriented toward their mission of teaching climbing, and that really resonated with us,” said Roberts. They were also impressed with a turn-key approach to expanding their training program. “We could spend 2 or 3 years replicating the curriculum and facility, but how many families would we alienate during that time?” coach Roberts said. “We simply judged that it makes much more sense to go straight to the source. Now we have a partner with whom we can share what is working and what isn’t, and to accelerate the process of improvement.” In particular, VA was keen on finding the best way to serve young climbers ages six and under. ABC has a program called the Monkeys, complete with a “Monkey Pavilion” at their Team ABC headquarters in Boulder, that is designed for this age group. “Six and under was an age group that we [felt we] could really cater to. So that is when we reached out to ABC and that is where our partnership is beginning.” Even though VA has only licensed the Monkey program from ABC, the partnership is broader and includes, “cross-marketing of outdoor trips & camps, policy development and staff training” Roberts said. “Our partnership is one of complementarities.” Coach Roberts and the owners of Vertical Adventures want their members to associate Vertical Adventures with excellent people, programming and facilities. “If we have the chance to collaborate with ABC in building a youth program, and that allows us to launch a fully-formed, excellent Monkeys program, to us, that choice is easy.”