Philly Rock Gyms Leases New Space

The new warehouse space leased by PRG.
The new warehouse space leased by PRG.
According to ReBusiness Online the Philadelphia Rock Gym as signed a multi-year lease on a 10,000 square foot warehouse building in the Philly suburb of Wyncote. This new facility will mark PRG’s 4th location in the Philadelphia metro area. PRG also announced on their Facebook page a new partnership with outdoor gear retailer EMS.
We are thrilled to announce that we have secured a partnership agreement with Eastern Mountain Sports, which as you probably know, is headquartered in New England and carries much of the apparel, outerwear, footwear and gear we all use for our daily adventures! They are interested in working with us to help build a vital outdoor community in the Exton area. EMS will be kicking off this partnership with a special introductory offer of $15 off a purchase of $50 or more, with limited restrictions – for all group members. Stay tuned for this exclusive offer, and more announcements and member benefits from our new partner – Eastern Mountain Sports!

New Website For USA Climbing

Screenshot from the new USAC website.
Screenshot from the new USAC website.
From Press Release: USA Climbing, the United States National Governing Body for the sport of competition climbing announced today that it is currently in the process of transitioning to a new website. “Much like last year’s rebranding effort, a new website has been at the top of our “to-do list” for many years,” said USA Climbing CEO Kynan Waggoner. “Due to the support of a very generous donor and a long relationship with the folks at the Active Network, we now have a website and technology platform that is going to support our needs now and in the future.” During the transition period, USA Climbing will be running and testing the new website at www.usaclimbing.org, but will continue to run the old website at www.usaclimbing.net while we work through some potential bugs with membership and the online scoring functionality over the next few weeks. All pertinent data will continue to be posted to both websites while we make the full transition to the new website. If you have specific feedback about the new website, please email info@usaclimbing.org with your thoughts.

Gym Soon To Open In Boone, NC

The founders of Center 45. Photo: By Erika Giovanetti erika@mountaintimes.com
The founders of Center 45. Photo: By Erika Giovanetti erika@mountaintimes.com
Boone, North Carolina’s first indoor climbing gym, Center 45, LLC, is set to open in early Sept. thanks to the support and dedication of the High Country’s climbing community, spearheaded by three Appalachian State University graduates report High Country NC The bouldering gym, which was originally called Sender House and now named after a famed bouldering area near Blowing Rock, will be the first climbing facility in the hip folksy Blue Ridge mountain town.
Although the High Country area has some of the best bouldering opportunities in the Southeast, local climbers argue that with the Boone region being considered a temperate rainforest, there needs to be an indoor outlet for the community to utilize, according to the group’s website. “Local climbers need that place to train and meet when there’s bad weather,” co-founder Chris Grasinger said in a March interview. “We need a place to touch base and interact with each other.”
Support for Center 45 became clear after a viral Kickstarter campaign in March of this year. Although the campaign didn’t meet its goal, the Kickstarter was shared in the climbing community locally and beyond, helping to spread the word to key investors. Currently, the group is hosting another crowd-raising campaign on Indie GoGo with a goal of $10,000 to help pay for the finishing touches on the gym.

Construction Costs are on the Rise

Steel framing at the new Salt Pump Climbing Co in Scarborough, ME
Steel framing at the new Salt Pump Climbing Co in Scarborough, ME
New 6/4/2021 article on this topic: Inflation Hits the Climbing Industry by Tino Fiumara After reading CBJ’s annual Gyms and Trends report a lot of people realized that the time to build a climbing gym is now. Actually, in 20/20 hindsight, the time was five years ago. A gym would be going gangbusters by now and the ownership group would be executing on their expansion strategy. Yet, in foresight, the time is literally now. And if you are underway with a project, you’re probably learning about price increases, schedule changes, and other, possibly unforeseen, adjustments to your budget. Building a gym is an involved and expensive process. It’s a business whose main assets are cost-prohibitive and must be incurred up front. These assets – the climbing wall and the building (if it’s not leased) are an amalgam of steel, lumber, and concrete. These base level materials are tied to the greater national and international resource markets. Right now, prices for oil are down, so many think that materials and shipping should be cheaper, thus making now the right time to build a new facility. Yes and no. Yes, it is absolutely the right time, but for a different set of reasons.
TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel
  Non-residential construction for 2015 is up – there is no question about that and there is plenty of supporting data. Turner, a North America-based, international construction services company, publishes the Turner Building Cost Index, which measures costs in the non-residential building construction market in the United States. They have reported a 1.19% increase from the First Quarter 2015 and a 4.69% increase from the Second Quarter 2014. A Consensus Construction Forecast shows that US commercial construction is on the rise, almost on par with the indoor climbing industry, about 9% per year. This Consensus is an aggregate forecast of seven well-respected forecasting organizations, including Moody’s, Wells Fargo, and Dodge Data & Analytics. In line with the growth of the indoor climbing industry, this same Consensus also put recreational facility construction on the rise to the tune of more than 14% per year. This constant wave of commercial building has created demand for the same materials that are necessary for building climbing gyms: lumber, steel & concrete products, and skilled labor. Land is also becoming more expensive, but due to geographic disparities in land value the focus of this article is on construction precursors.
Consensus Forecast
Consensus Forecast

Almost a Level Playing Field

Prices are going up. Raw materials and shipping cost increases have had an effect on the commercial construction market but this has affected all builders. In the US, we have seen lumber, concrete and steel costs on the rise. However, the biggest pinch to future budgets is that skilled labor costs on the rise – in part because there isn’t enough skilled labor, and because the high demand for this labor has driven up wages. For US climbing wall manufacturers, we spoke with both Rockwerx and Entre-Prises USA and found that both have seen similar increases in the prices of plywood and steel. Ralph Rogers, CEO of Rockwerx, reports that, “just in the past 2 years, we have seen a rise in plywood prices of 12%. Steel prices have gone up 10%. Concrete has gone up 6%. As far as labor goes, yes, labor costs are on the rise. I am a firm believer in ‘you get what you pay for’ and skilled, hard-working American workers cost money.” “We are seeing construction costs rise very quickly,” explains Jason Stollenwerk, VP Sales & Marketing for Entre-Prises USA. “As much as 5% compared to 2014. There are many factors that play into this, including increased labor costs to increases in raw materials, shortage of skilled labor, and shipping costs”
TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel
  These two firms foresee continuing cost increases in the next two years of approximately 2%-4% per year. This is in line with the Construction Cost Index and Building Cost Index, published by the Engineering News Record (ENR), which reports a 2.4% increase in building costs and a 2.9% increase in labor costs from June 2014 to July 2015 Building costs are always relative to your product and where the materials come from. Walltopia’s main product is the panelized wall system that is mostly plywood and steel, whereas EP and Rockwerx also have products that utilize concrete (to which ENR reports an 8.4% cost increase on concrete over the last year). Most American companies source their materials and their labor here in the US, where materials and labor are generally more expensive than Europe or Asia. Walltopia is unique in that it sources its materials and labor from Eastern Europe. Adam Koberna, the US Sales Manager for Walltopia adds that, “Most of the cost increases that (Walltopia) has seen, in the market, are driven by materials. Steel prices are always changing – this is what I’ve seen in 20 years of doing this. China was building for the Olympics 10 years ago and used all of the steel in the world and drove prices up for 2 years. It has since calmed down.”
ENR Commodity Prices for 2014/2015
ENR Commodity Prices for 2014/2015

The Steel Vacuum

Steel prices really can be all over the place, yet there has been artificial lowering of steel prices thanks to the reduced oil prices mentioned earlier. Less steel is needed since oil production contracted, thus flooding the market with this extra capacity. The Wall Street Journal reported that Chinese, Russian, and Indian steel were dumped in the US market earlier this year and domestic producers had to drop their prices. This was so impactful that both the US and Europe have begun anti-dumping investigations into China and Russia for their below market pricing and excessive exporting. This may have had a positive effect on current climbing gym building projects, or, more likely, builders may have used that profit margin to cover any reduced margins from other increased costs. No matter the result, this steel price reduction is probably short lived. Like China’s steel consumption from 2006 to 2008, China is getting ready for the 2020 Olympics and will soon be buying up steel for arenas and public infrastructure projects. On top of that, only one of the 13 new stadiums needed for the 2018 FIFA tournament in Russia have been completed. Almost $100 billion in enhancements have been planned in preparation for the soccer tournament. Basically, you can almost hear the steel vacuum that is going to happen across the globe.
TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel
 

Time is Money

Gym owners want to get projects off the ground sooner than later. We are in the golden period of climbing gym development as there are many underserved markets and the public appeal toward the sport has never been so high. This momentum combined with the likelihood of increasing production costs points toward the necessity to take action now if building a climbing gym is even a remote goal. So, this may be obvious, but having a great business model is essential so that potential start-ups have a real handle on the costs, the timeline and exactly how the gym’s revenue lines will work. The start-up phase is critical and small deviations can result in large costs. If the permitting for a project doesn’t go as planned, then it’s at least a couple weeks delay as plans are changed…cha-ching. If there is a weather delay or the builders inevitably fall behind schedule…cha-ching. This cash register sound isn’t just another cost incurred now, it’s the cost of not opening when planned and thus not meeting Year 1 revenue targets. It is always recommended to have contingency plans for each of the possible issues that can arise in the construction phase. Budget extra time for permitting issues, especially if you are in an urban center with lots of red tape. Consider adding a 10% buffer to your loan value for unforeseen changes that can result in increased costs or that could otherwise force you to scale back some element of your project just to stay on budget. A potential gym ownership group doesn’t want to have to excise some climbing space if their township requires them to have a more ornate facade. “It’s easier to go big in the beginning than to go back and ask for more money,” says Ralph Rogers of Rockwerx, “and (it helps) to get the building architect and the climbing wall structural engineer together as early as possible.”
EP Wall under construction at Movement Denver
EP Wall under construction at Movement Denver

The Million Dollar Question

What is the price per square foot to build a climbing wall? No one wants to answer it and to help you out, we are going to answer a question with a question. How much does it cost to make dinner? It depends on what you want to serve. Exactly. In CBJ’s Climbing Wall FAQ section, you can see that it takes between $25-$38 per square foot to build a wall. Elevate Climbing Walls states on their website, “depending on the complexity of the design and structural issues with the building, climbing walls can cost between $30.00 and $40.00 per square ft”. There are a lot of specific, nuanced decisions that go into the cost of a custom climbing wall structure that make many facilities incomparable. For their Modular Panel Walls, and not their premium ARC Walls, Vertical Solutions advertises a $35 per square foot cost. These prices are before change orders and they don’t take into account if you’re building in midtown Manhattan or in Missouri. Then there is market pricing to take into account. Just because a wall builder normally gets $35-$40 per square foot for much of it’s product, it doesn’t mean they won’t take $10 less per square foot just to lock-in the contract. Crazier things have been done to win bidding wars. As the old adage goes, “you need to give a little, to get a little.” However, if there is a bid that is coming in way under all of the others, be wary. Ask around to your poll-group of gym owners and at least a couple will have a story about how they were lured in by a low price and made up the difference by either fixing poor work or by change orders to get what they really needed. What you do want out of your relationship with your wall builder and your general contractor is trust. Potential owners want a fully-itemized contract. Adam Koberna of Walltopia states, “when we get done with the computer model you will know exactly (what the costs are). This is huge – the transparency on construction costs per square foot.”

Bloomberg Jumps on Climbing Bandwagon

BKB’s Newest location in Long Island City, N.Y. Photo: Bloomberg
Bloomberg Business is the latest major news publication to sing the praises of indoor climbing businesses. They profile enterpreneurs using Brooklyn Boulder’s “work-play” space.
When Joe Lemay, a 38-year-old developer in Boston, decided to leave his corporate job to launch a startup, he opted against a permanent office. Instead, Lemay spends his days at Brooklyn Boulders (BKB) Somerville, a rock-climbing gym designed to double as a co-working haven for entrepreneurs. “I’ll be sitting there coding and get up from my chair, go over to a squat rack, and do 10 reps on the rack, then come back to my computer,” Lemay says. “You can always be in the mindset of being active and productive at the same time.” Lemay’s startup, RocketBook, produces a line of digitally enabled notebooks. The venture might not have been possible without Lemay’s time on the wall: It was during an epiphany after a midday climb that Lemay realized his company’s technology would be better suited for smaller notebooks than big whiteboards. “Climbing forces you to be completely present in the moment when you’re hanging onto a wall, trying to make that next move without falling,” he says. “It gives your subconscious its own space to think about things. When you come back, you have different ideas, angles, and perspectives you couldn’t have before.”
The story also makes a nod to the industry’s strong growth, comparing it to the explosion of Crossfit boxes across the country in the last five years.
Indoor rock-climbing is a quietly expanding exercise industry ripe for a Crossfit-like explosion. Climbing gyms boasted revenues of $151 million in 2014, up from $147 million in 2013, according to IBISWorld. That figure is expected to hit $162 million by 2019. The number of climbing gyms in the U.S. increased by 9 percent last year, with a total of 353 facilities; California is the fastest-growing state market.
Read the full story at bloomberg.com

Will The Squamish Co-Op Stay Open?

The Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op. Photo: Squamish Climbing Magazine.
The Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op. Photo: Squamish Climbing Magazine.
Squamish Climbing Magazine sat down with own with Jeremy Blumel, a member of the co-op board at the Squamish-based Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op and asked him a few questions about the future of the facility. The co-op is under pressure from the soon to open Ground Up Climbing center which is slated to open November 15th. To help guage the interest in keeping the co-op open the board sent out a survey to all its members. “With a new commercial facility opening up, we need to know that we have enough committed citizens to make our climbing state run smoothly,” Blumel told the magazine.
Do you think that the Co-op and Ground up can co-exist in a community like Squamish? “I think that in a community like Squamish, a for-profit climbing gym and a not-for-profit climbing co-op can flourish together. The climbing gym brings in the new interested people who want to explore what climbing is, the kids have a place to meet buddies, be physically active and learn what climbing has to offer a Squamish youth and the hard cores, in whatever discipline you choose have a new training ground to learn in. Set routes, new plastic holds, varying angles; all these things add up to an amazing new bit of terrain when the rains descend. The Co-op offers the psyched, self-motivated climber an open training slate with which to experiment and apply new training ideas, meet like-minded folk, and just circuit around whenever they want. The creativity of a non-set hold canvas really appeals to many of us who like to create problems. The Co-op also offers a model that works for people from a wide range of economic groups. We’re cheaper, and you can go for as long as you want, whenever you want. However, it smells like feet and has a chalky aire about it.”
In the 2014/15 season the co-op had 120 keys out which translates to members. Blumel said that they only need roughly 60 keys out to stay in business.
Rumour has it that the Co-op has enough cash in its war chest to stay open with very little members. Is this something that the co-op has considered? “We have some gold in our coffers and have considered this but then it makes the next year especially tight. If we run in the positive we can keep gauging interest year by year and add improvements when they make sense. If we close, then we need to decide what happens to the current surplus of cash. If we have a small number of members then the continuing price would have to be adjusted to cover our costs. Once that amount gets too close to Ground Up’s price the advantages won’t be as worth it.”

The “Tiny” Gym That Does Big Things

The Boulders Climbing Gym is a not-for-profit climbing facility in a small town near Victoria, BC which lies on the western edge of Canada. The all volunteer facility has a mandate for making climbing accessible for everyone, regardless of physical ability or ability to pay. Over the years, the gym has gone through several changes and expansions and with over 13,000 square feet (1,208 square meters) of climbing space, the gym has become not only a community facility, but a unique social enterprise, providing adaptive recreation and rehabilitation programs, youth recreational and competitive programs, as well as facilitating a climbing academy. adrex.com takes us inside to see what the little gym has become.
“It all started with Stellys Secondary School’ teacher who liked to climb, and saw climbing as a valuable teaching tool. In 1995, Peter Mason took his enthusiasm and some perseverance, and built a small climbing wall on the outside of the school gym. Twenty years later, the Boulders is now home to a high school academy, youth teams, climbing groups and of course regular folks. “Our competition facility (costing about $3m, raised through grants and donations) opened in late 2011. It includes a certified 15m speed wall (a new women’s world record was set on it in May 2015 at the kick-off to the IFSC Speed World Cup series), and is over 18 meters tall. It is indoor/outdoor thanks to a large 15.5m by 15.5m “door” that opens and closes,” Kimanda describes the gym’s most recent expansion.”
The Boulders is a one of a kind facility in North America and arguably the premier training ground for Canadian and even US athletes looking to gain an advantage on the comp circuit. The facility also has hosted the IFSC Youth World Championships in 2013 as well as World Cup training camps attended by the like of Adam Ondra and others. Find more great photos and info at Adrex.com.