Shaping an Industry
By Jack Simonson
Indoor climbing has come a long way since the first commercial climbing gym opened in 1987. The earliest gyms featured handmade walls and climbing holds made from brittle, heavy resin. Setters used L-wrenches, taped routes, and had limited resources at their disposal. Now, color-matched routes, lightweight and durable plastic shapes, and innovative volumes are the norm.
Climbers, routesetters, and artists have been pushing the limits of climbing hold technology for the last three decades, and a few brand names have been at the forefront of this movement, helping to shape the future of a new industry.
One of the companies is Boulder-based, eGrips, which is celebrating twenty years in business this year.
What’s in The Water in Washington
The state of Washington is hot right now! Compared to any other state in the US, the Evergreen state is experiencing a mini gym rush. Five gyms are planned or in the works, making climbing gym operators of Washington the busiest in the country. These entrepreneurs are even beating out other historically active states like New York, Colorado and even California.
Central
Most of the development is taking place on the western side of the Cascades except for the folks behind Riverfront Rock Gym, in Wenatchee, WA, which lies on the eastern front near the bouldering paradise of Leavenworth. Central Washington has several colleges and universities that have rec center climbing walls. But what makes Riverfront unique is that it is the only commercial climbing facility in the vast, nearly 300 mile-wide section of the state that lies between Spokane on the east and Seattle on the west. Wenatchee has a relatively small population of 32,701, but is the second largest city in central-northern Washington (the largest, Yakima, has about 93,000). The Riverfront developers are taking an old barn and turning it into a 10,000 square foot climbing facility with 10,000 square feet of climbing surface. Read more about it on CBJ.The North
The latest gym to announce is Cascade Climbing Center in Bellingham, WA. This new ground-up 15,000 square foot commercial climbing gym will feature 20,000 square feet of climbing surface. Owner Jon Cohn tells CBJ the gym will also have, “Separate spaces for bouldering, kids programs, and top-rope climbing, as well as a national-class lead wall and competition bouldering wall, both facing a full-length mezzanine, allowing a great layout for competitions. Additionally, the facility will have a full 15 meter speed wall, and full training area, including a system wall, hangboards, campus boards, weights, and aerobic machines.” Cascade Climbing Center is planning for a 2017 opening. Bellingham, population 83,000, is home to 15,000 students at Western Washington University. The city is currently served by only one climbing facility: Vital Bouldering gym. Just down the Interstate from Bellingham is the small town of Burlington, WA where Riverstone Climbing Gym will soon be located. According to their website, the gym will feature 5,000 square feet of Walltopia built climbing surface. This may seem small but it could be the perfect size for the 8,400 people living in the town.Seattle Metro
Long-time gym operator, Vertical World is bringing some changes to their operations north of Seattle. In Everett, Vertical World declined to renew a lease on their downtown facility allowing a new operator to take over the space, including the existing climbing walls. Re-named Summit Everett, the new owners will re-open the gym after a much needed modernization and remodeling. CBJ reported late last year, “While not massive, Summit Everett will feature 9,600 square feet of bouldering and top-rope climbing surface with modernized wall designs, brand new Cascade Specialty flooring, color-coordinated routes, a fitness center and a cafe at the front of the gym to enhance the neighborhood feel of the place.” However, Vertical World still believes the area is a great market for a climbing gym and is opening a 20,000 ground-up building in Lynnwood, 20 minutes south of Everett and 28 minutes from their Seattle facility.The South
Rounding out the Washington gym spree is the Purdy Fun Climbing center in Lacey, WA near the State capital, Olympia. Last summer CBJ wrote about the new gym and the collaboration that is making it possible. This new partnership will bring the area’s original climbing gym, the Warehouse Rock Gym into the modern era. With new ownership and an influx of cash, a new ground-up purpose-built climbing facility will be a great resource for climbers of the area.Couples Therapy in a Belay Device
“The EDELRID Ohm is an innovative, new solution for the problems experienced by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. That is to say the risk for a heavier lead climber if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls and the risk for a lighter belayer if their partner’s falls pull them off the ground, hurling them against the wall. The OHM is an assisted-braking resistor that you install at the first bolt in the safety chain.”
Staff Fired After Viral Video
A 19-year old staff member at a Vancouver, Britsh Columbia Funtopia was fired after a video surfaced of the employee ignoring a crying child. The video, which was shot by the mother of the child shows a staff member sitting on the padding texting on her phone while the child screams in terror.
Crying kids and even inattentive staff are not unheard of at climbing gyms. But what is surprising is the speed in which the company responded to the video, which went viral after the mother posted it on her personal Facebook page.
“This EFFIN teacher!” the mother, identified as Happy Lani, wrote on Facebook. “My daughter is crying up there and she is ON HER PHONE TEXTING!”
On Facebook, Lani wrote that she noticed the employee was texting on her phone before the lesson started. “It broke my heart not to run and help my daughter right away,” she wrote. “But I needed to capture this as evidence. Trust me I stopped the whole lesson!”
After filming the incident, Lani said she showed the video to a supervisor, who she said was also “shocked.” In a post on Facebook, Funtopia wrote that the parent showed them the video, which the company described as “really disturbing” and “definitely not normal.”
“This particular employee has broken at least three internal rules, starting with no phones outside of the employees room,” the company wrote. “I can assure you that she will not work a single minute more in our location.” This particular Funtopia is stand alone franchise and is not affiliated with a climbing gym.
Some people on social media have questioned the actions of the mother for not immediately helping her daughter. But in another Facebook post on Thursday, Lani said she doesn’t mind the criticism. “All I know is that without my video she would still be employed working with young children,” she wrote.
You’re So Vain: Soft Gym Grading
By Chris O’Connell
This post was originally published on the Boston Rock Gym blog and reprinted with permission from the author.
I visited a new rock gym not long ago and found myself excited leaving the gym later that evening. I had just flashed a half dozen 12’s, and that was straight off the couch. While I was feeling really good about myself, I also recognize that I haven’t gotten any better or stronger with my training regimen of atrophy. I was just enjoying the phenomena of “Vanity Grading.” I don’t know if vanity grading is a harmless practice that will simply foster higher self-esteem or if it’s a harbinger of the coming apocalypse. I suspect that it falls somewhere in between. I’m not sure that ‘vanity sizing’ has any serious risks other than not being able to fit your fat ass into a euro designer offering when your sizing measuring stick comes from JC Penny. I see that as being more amusing than anything else, but what about climbers being offered a steady diet of vanity graded gym climbs? Should that climber dare venture into the wild, they could conceivably find themselves in deep shit. It’s a given that the vast majority of gym climbers do not cross over to outdoor climbing, but do we owe the minority that do venture outdoors a grading experience that is more in line with the regional norms? Is it time to recognize that gym climbing is a separate branch of the ‘Climbing Tree’ and not worry about what ‘crosses over’ and what doesn’t? I’m not sure what the answer is; grading is always a contentious topic.
Ice Gym Opens After Fire
The world’s largest indoor climbing facility is set to reopen next month after being damaged by fire. Ice Factor, in Fort William, Scotland was shut down this past summer after a fire started in the sauna area and caused extensive smoke damage. The unique climbing facility will open this coming March 18th.
Ice Factor, which first opened in 2003, is one of the few year-round ice climbing venues in the world and is one of Scotland’s top tourism attractions. The £3.4million facility is also designated a National Ice Climbing Centre and attracts annually in excess of 100,000 visitors. Climbers and adventure seekers come from throughout the UK and abroad to scale the 45ft high ice-walls that are designed to replicate winter climbing conditions on the likes of Ben Nevis.
Professional climber Dave MacLeod, told the Press and Journal, “I’m delighted to see it reopening. It has been for a decade or so a really important facility for the local climbers and the visiting climbers as well.”
Jamie Smith, owner of Ice Factor, said about the renovation effort, “It has taken almost eight months but after a huge effort by all of the team I’m proud to announce that an even bigger and better Ice Factor Kinlochleven will reopen on March 18.”
New Bouldering Gym for San Diego
A new bouldering gym has just been approved by the planning commission in northern San Diego County. Vital Climbing will open their fourth bouldering gym in Oceanside, California according to The San Diego Union-Tribune.
The Oceanside gym will take over a building that previously housed a surf shop and a motorcycle dealership at 525 South Coast Highway on the northwest corner of Coast Highway and Minnesota Avenue. The 8,100 square-foot building will have four climbing structures about 16 feet tall. In addition the gym will also have a lounge, an exercise area, locker rooms, and an office. The facility will offer yoga and rock climbing classes and will be available for parties and community events.
The Planning Commission unanimously approved permits for the gym on Monday. Several commissioners said the business would provide a fun and healthy entertainment venue for people in the community.
“It’s a healthy alternative to some of the other uses that are currently on the street,” said Commissioner Claudia Troisi, who lives in the area. “I’m thrilled to have you and wish you a lot of success.”
Like their other facilities, the Vital gym will be open to the public during regular hours but it will also be accessible to members 24-hours a day using a key code door system.
Commissioner John Scrivener said he was concerned about people having access to the facility at times when there will be no employees supervising climbers. “So if somebody falls when there is no one around, what happens?” Scrivener asked.
Co-owner, Nam Phan said employees routinely visit the gym at night and there have been no major injuries in their other facilities.
“We have staff dropping in at random hours of the night to spot check,” Phan said. “We’ve been operating three locations and that system has worked very well for us.”
The new Oceanside location is a mere 12 minutes from their Carlsbad location and is expected to draw heavily from the nearby Marine base of Camp Pendleton.