Sterling Rope Acquired by Arborist Company
¹This article was updated on July 31, following further announcements from Sterling. Have news you would like to share? CBJ would like to hear all about it. Please drop us a note with the details.
Summit Just Opened Large Gym In Plano
Summit Climbing, Yoga & Fitness Plano, TX
Specs: 32,000 square-foot facility (5,000 of which are for bouldering, 20,000 of which are for top-rope, lead, speed, and auto-belay climbing) located at the George Bush Turnpike and Coit Road, in Plano, Texas. The gym is one of the largest climbing gyms in the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex. Additional amenities include a fitness area, a yoga studio, and a section specifically for kids’ climbing. Website: summitgyms.com/plano In Their Words: “It was really important to us to create a gym that could host competitions at all levels, especially at the highest level, so spectating space was really important, and creating wall angles that are conducive to competition rock climbing was really important. I think we did a really good job with it. Since day one we’ve always wanted that, and we’re finally doing it.” —Chris LoCrasto, co-ownerHave news you would like to share? CBJ would like to hear about your new gym projects, openings, closings, moves and new owners. Please drop us a note with the details.
Sport Climbing Provisionally In 2024 Olympics
Competitions For Your Inspiration
LOCAL – NATIONAL – USAC
- Dynos in Cages: The Dominion Energy Riverrock by Delaney Miller (gymclimber.com)
- Food, Music and Deep Water Soloing: Tuck Fest by Delaney Miller (gymclimber.com)
- Collegiate National Championships Recap by Delaney Miller (gymclimber.com)
- Commentary on Commentary: A Report Card for ESPN’s USA Climbing Broadcasts by John Burgman (climbing.com)
WORLD CUPS – IFSC – OLYMPICS
- Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Vail World Cup 2019 by John Burgman (climbing.com)
- History is Made in Vail: A Dark Horse and a Season Sweep by Delaney Miller (gymclimber.com)
- Fish Out of Ice: A Beginner Takes on the Ice Climbing World Cup by Corey Buhay (climbing.com)
- Tricks Up Their Sleeves: Ice / Drytooling Coursesetters Are Full of Surprises by Alison Osius (gymclimber.com)
- A Guide to the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Climbing Format by John Burgman (climbing.com)
2019 Grip List Awards
5. TEKNIK
Teknik is in the midst of its 20-year anniversary. Climbing on plastic has evolved a lot in that span of time, so it’s impressive that the Canada-based company has been such a mainstay at the top of the heap. Teknik has also taken the Grip List’s All Time Favorite award (in 2017), and in terms of Grip List survey responses, does not show any signs of slowing down with shapes that are, according to one voter, “simple and highly functional.” In the past year alone, new sets released included the Slippers, Duck Pods, Deep Pockets, Flat Pinches, Curled Edges, R Series, S Series, and a host of other shapes. Upcoming releases for the current year will include Longy Long Fat Pinches and Fatty Fatty Fat Pinches—both sets of which are expansions of older series—and an entirely new series with Ridgelines, Skylines, and other holds. Zoe Johnston, who co-founded the company with husband Seth, said of Teknik’s success and longevity: “[Seth and I are] both still active climbers, still keeping current after all of these years. Seth started climbing in 1987 and I began in 1989 and have been obsessed with indoor climbing from the start. We still really love climbing—and most importantly, holds! And I think that our long term experience and deep understanding and love of holds comes through in our shapes. We try to make sure that anything we make will be a ‘must have’ for a gym’s collection, will serve a nice purpose within our line, and most importantly will be fun in some way.” One voter agreed with that sentiment of Teknik holds serving certain purposes, saying, “The simple designs are multi-purpose and allow for fast tweaks and edits during forerunning.” In fact, a number of routesetters repeatedly used the words “simple” and “clean” and “functional” when describing what makes Teknik’s holds so preferable in a gym. Perhaps one voter said it best by stating that Teknik “continues to be the bread and butter of many routesetting programs across all types of grips.”4. ROCK CANDY
Part of the appeal of Ohio-based Rocky Candy is not just their holds (which are “the best quality to price at the moment,” according to one voter), but also their consistent promotion of routesetting as a craft and career. Rock Candy hosts multi-day routesetting educational clinics at gyms, and their Support Your Local Routesetter program includes providing holds (for free) to gyms that host competitions. Still, the foundation of all this is that the company consistently produces holds that routesetters enjoy and find useful. The brand’s pinches and Champs XL jugs—as well as the brand’s customer service—received particularly rave reviews from Grip List voters this year. “The plastic is bomb-proof,” said one voter. “And most importantly, their hold selection is solid. Not a single set of holds comes with a dud. Where some companies go for quantity, Rock Candy goes for quality.” Another voter also praised the customer service and hold variety: “Rock Candy has very affordable holds that ship quickly to accommodate our [gym’s] sporadic budget. The shapes have been very versatile across angles, which serves us really well with a smaller hold inventory. The affordability means we have been able to introduce bigger shapes to our climbers while still staying within budget. The Mesas, Diatoms, Sledges, and Buckets have been particularly great.”3. FLATHOLD
Flathold has held firm near the top of the Grip List since earning second place last year and third place in 2017. The Swiss brand is well known in the climbing industry for its goal of creating movement rather than just shapes, and this was evident in the comments received during the Grip List voting period. “They’re subtle, directional, and give routesetters the ability to set outdoor, fricton-style climbs,” one voter noted of the shapes. “No other company does that quite as well.” In fact, an interesting detail for this year’s Grip List was that a number of routesetters specifically cited Flathold’s “outdoor” style, when it comes to shapes, as part of the brand’s main appeal. The Electric Flavor and dual-tex Damage Control were two shapes specifically praised during the voting period. Voters also voiced appreciation for the company’s bolt hole plugs. In 2018, the company released a full range of 105 new holds (known as the Creature of Comfort series) in Europe, and all those holds are currently scheduled for North American production later this year. Yet, Flathold’s co-owner Mathieu Achermann noted to CBJ that the shapes and the series that the company is proudest of are those that are yet to be released—those that are still being developed in the workshop. “We already have around 60-70 new shapes to complete the range of Damage Control,” Achermann specified. “All those shapes are now in the molding process, and we will present them at the end of this year.”2. CHEETA
Undoubtedly some of the biggest news to come out of this year’s Grip List results was the ascension of Cheeta. Not only was this the first year that the French brand broke into the Grip List’s coveted Top 5, but it rocketed to earning the number 2 spot. Some of that surge in popularity is likely due to Cheeta’s prevalence on walls at IFSC World Cup competitions, as some voters praised Cheeta shapes for being well-suited for setting “comp-style” boulders in the gym. Dual-tex was another preferable feature cited by voters, with specific shapes such as the company’s huecos and the pockets getting mentioned too. “The more I use them, the more I find out about how they were designed, the more I see how much can be done with them,” explained one voter. “There are no better holds on the market for producing interesting climbing at all levels.” Another voter stated, “Cheetah is producing some truly outlandish holds that are really killer looking on the wall and also incredibly functional. The Urban jugs are fantastic for setting comfortable flow routes, the Boomerangs are super sick-looking and great for setting tension (plus, they just expanded the line massively to include neat jugs and really slender toothpick-looking edges). It’s great to have more European shapes hitting the U.S. market.” Canon Huse, the director at Premium Holds and Volumes (which distributes Cheeta holds in the U.S.) told CBJ that Cheeta has been doing a lot lately to expand its American presence. Efforts have included sponsoring USA Climbing and having a Premium representative at every USA Climbing competition. And Cheeta’s mastermind, Laurent Laporte, visited the U.S. and taught two setting clinics last year. “Since the beginning, [Laporte] has always been trying to push the limit of what kind of shapes you can make,” said Huse. “He wanted to make shapes for the World Cups that created movement that had never been seen before. Not just singular shapes, but shapes that interact with one another. This has led to some of the most classic Cheeta shapes such as the Ball volume, Craters, and most recently the Sky Ball. One of the things that makes the shapes stand out is the use of dual-tex on almost every single hold. Designed with a purpose, it is both functional and aesthetic.”1. KILTER
For the fourth year in a row, Boulder, Colorado-based Kilter earned the top spot on the Grip List. And while Kilter, under the creative guidance of founder Ian Powell, consistently receives reviews in the annual Grip List survey praising the uniqueness and creativity of its shapes, it was the comfort of Kilter holds that seemed to garner the most praise from voters this year. Those routesetters surveyed specified everything from the dual-tex surfaces to the ergonomics shapes and the directionality as reasons for Kilter’s dominance yet again (the brand having also won in 2014, 2016, 2017, and 2018). And, the fact that Kilter has a massive catalog of holds (“over 4,000 shapes in many styles, innovative, comfortable,” a voter noted) was acknowledged as well. Climbing on Smooth Tufas at The Shape Gallery. Photo from Kilter. “Kilter makes the most comfortable grips on the market, period,” said a voter. “Ian Powell is constantly pushing the limits of plastic—especially with Kilter’s new modular tufa system, or their complex blocker series, or with screw-on plates that can subtly change the contour/texture of the face of a volume. While still offering holds for every conceivable need, they still maintain the highest quality, comfort, and aesthetic design that makes them a joy to set with. Kilter’s the best.” But the company is hardly resting on its back catalog of older shapes. It released 764 holds last year, and has already released 328 new holds this year. One of the most noteworthy releases recently was the modular Smooth Tufa system—150 linear feet of climbing holds that connect in a myriad of ways. The system includes a number of different shapes, including pinches, slopers, jugs, incuts, edges, wedges, and end caps. “These new shapes break up the monotony of climbing walls and help gyms get away from dot-to-dot climbing,” Ian Powell, founder and co-owner of Kilter, told CBJ. “People are building 6 million dollar gyms and filling them with little lumps, and it’s up to us as shapers to step up and fill these expensive, well designed spaces with a quality of hold that matches the quality of the walls.” Also of note is that Kilter officially launched its adjustable Kilter Board in partnership with Aurora Climbing and built by Lemur Designs; customers can also build their own wall or choose from several other wall manufacturers. Before finalizing the set, the company spent over a year developing more than 800 shapes and tweaking layouts for its version of a system board. “We spend most of our money on foam and molding,” Hueftle said of Kilter’s craftsmanship. “Ian [Powell] and Peter Juhl are still improving as shapers because the more you shape the better you get. They end up desperate to mold as much as we can get molded because they know the newest sets are that much better and more exciting than the oldest ones. Like typical sculptors, they always feel the strongest about their latest work.”KILTER
There was definitely no gimme for this year’s All Time Favorite. Last year proved to be a close battle between Kilter and Teknik (with Kilter emerging victorious by a single vote), and this year saw those same two brands emerging at the top. But nipping at their heels were Cheeta and Rock Candy, which tied for the third-place slot. Flathold, Kingdom, and eGrips were near the top too. So, while Kilter is once again crowned the Grip List winner and Teknik is given the runner up award for 2019’s All Time Favorite, one can’t help but wonder if this long-standing coupling of Kilter and Teknik might get shaken up next year. We’ll just have to wait and see (and count the votes).DIMENSION
For a third consecutive year, routesetters voted Canada-based Dimension as their brand of choice for volumes. With a staff of eight people, Dimension creates volumes that are used in gyms—and the highest level of competitions—around the world. Louie Anderson, who represents Dimension in the U.S. market, noted that the company made more than 2,000 volumes in 2018—and he estimates that the current year will easily surpass that output. Since all Dimension volumes are produced on a made-to-order basis, the brand is working on expanding its staff and facilities in order to shorten turnaround time for orders this year. It is worth noting that Blocz earned the Runner Up spot in the Grip List’s volume category—and the total votes were really close (separated by only 2.88 percent of the votes). And, together with Dimension, the two brands earned 50 percent of the total vote. So, it’s clear that Dimension and Blocz are the go-to volumes for routesetters around the country who participated in the Grip List survey.GRIZZLY
While the routesetters are the ones setting the routes at gyms, they are factually only part of whole routesetting equation. There is an entire other segment of people whose opinions on holds and shapes matter: the gym patrons. For that reason, CBJ decided to do something new this year for the Grip List and unveil a People’s Choice category for voters who are not necessarily routesetters. Our laboratory for study was The Shape Gallery at Wooden Mountain during the week of the Climbing Wall Association Summit, where anyone and everyone could climb on holds from a host of more than 20 companies and then vote for a favorite. The company that took the winning spot—Grizzly Holds—is brand new to the market, having launched at this year’s CWA Summit. It is rare for such an upstart company to have such a large, immediate impact. (And, it should be noted, Grizzly is not an American company. They are based headquartered in Milton, Ontario, Canada, although the shapes are poured by Aragon in Colorado). Grip List voters expressed an immediate liking of Grizzly’s “simple” shapes and hold variety. Grizzly is the brainchild of co-owners Anthony Richard and Tom Wojtkowiak, who started the company because it seemed like a great way to blend their business aspirations with their mutual interests in climbing and routesetting. Their initial line was five hold sets, which resulted in the production of 173 total holds—a modest number in comparison to the output of some other brands, but Richard notes that plans are already in motion to release four additional sets in the coming year. “We have some big plans for this year, and we are psyched to get as much out to the world as we can,” Richard said.THE GRIP LIST DATA
Routesetter Education Roundup
THE B.I.G. INITIATIVE
According to its website, the B.I.G. Initiative’s mission is, “to take concrete action to help Canadian womxn achieve their goals in climbing.” This is done in three integrated steps: providing training, strengthen networks, and providing visibility. Part of that mission includes routesetting workshops offered throughout the year. What: Flannery Shay-Nemirow and a team of routesetters lead courses that range from Introduction and Advanced methodology. Internships are also offered. In particular, the upcoming Introduction to Routesetting course will go in-depth into the details commercial routesetting. The course will include information about tools and safety, holds, and quality control. It will be open to eight participants (“womxn who have never set before or have very limited experience setting,”) and span two days. The cost is $125/person. Climbing ability at a V4 or 5.10 level is required. When: July 29-31 (2019) Where: BoulderHouse and Crag X (in British Columbia, Canada) How to Sign Up: Submit an application hereLOUIE ANDERSON
Louie Anderson wrote the first real book on routesetting, called Fundamentals of Routesetting and still widely used and referenced in the industry. He also started the Setter Showdown. What: Anderson tailors his clinics the specifics of the host gym, and courses typically run for three or four days. Topics can range from routesetting introduction to advanced education. For example, a past Advanced Routesetting course cost $425/person and covered: Aesthetics, professionalism, setting efficiency, forerunning skills, understanding grades, and customer enjoyment. Anderson prefers to focus on bouldering, saying that it is easier to work with setters in that discipline. When/Where/How to Sign Up: Anderson typically teaches 2-3 courses per year. Although none are currently slated, he can be contacted via email here to set something up.ROUTESETTING INSTITUTE
This Boulder, Colorado-based collective includes routesetters from all over the country. Services offered range from consultation for gyms to full service partnerships and routesetter training. What: A typical routesetting instructional course includes education on creative movement for all abilities and body sizes, discussions of wall aesthetics, hold labeling, and risk management, as well as information about team management, hiring, scheduling, and workflow. A sample three-hour “Head Setter Clinic” given by Sarah Filler, Jeremy Ho, and TJ Sanford at the Climbing Wall Association Summit last year “ cost $295/person. When/Where/How to Sign Up: Although no clinics are currently slated, the institute can be contacted here to set something up.SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL ROUTESETTER
Rock Candy has been actively promoting its informational and educational tier, called Support Your Local Routesetter, for some time—particularly with regularly scheduled clinics. What: The fourth clinic of the Support Your Local Routesetter series will be led by Earth Treks’ Director of Routesetting, Ward Byrum. It will cover fundamental design theory for routes, with hands-on opportunities for those in attendance. Held on July 27-28 (2019) at Rock Mill Climbing (Akron, Ohio) registration for this clinic is closed. When/Where/How to Sign Up: Rock Candy plans to host more of these free clinics in the future. It is likely the next one will be held in the fall with a focus on competition setting. Once that clinic is confirmed they will post it here.USA CLIMBING
USA Climbing has been holding clinics for some time, particularly as an offshoot of its famed Routesetting Committee. The clinics are typically separated based on USA Climbing’s “level” scale of certification, which ranges from 1 to 5. More information about that system can be found here. What: A Level 1 clinic will be instructed by Momentum’s Head Routesetter, John Oungst, and open to 20 participants. The fee will be $200/person. A USA Climbing Routesetter Membership (which costs $55 and can usually be purchased at the time of registration) will also been a prerequisite for those in attendance. When: June 30-July 1 (2019) Where: Shaker Rocks (Shaker Heights, Ohio) How to Sign Up: Visit here, or contact John Oungst via email with questionsBehind the Desk with Kristina Ericson
Gym Roundup: NC, TX
By John Burgman
Here are some gyms that are set to open their doors around the country. Know about others? Please drop us a note with the details.
Triangle Rock Club in Durham, NC
Specs: 17,000-square-foot roped area (47-foot walls) and 10,000-square-foot bouldering area (15-foot walls). Additional amenities include a unisex shower and changing room area, a retail space, and a self-contained section for youth programing (20-foot walls). Outside features 440 parking spaces and a Planet Fitness at the other end of the building.
Website: https://www.trianglerockclub.com/durham/
In Their Words: “We’ve been working to put a Triangle Rock Club location in Durham for nearly five years. We pursued three other location possibilities before the eventual space but we couldn’t get all the lights to ‘turn green.’ In November, 2017, we toured a vacant Walmart building, and over the course of a few months, we worked out terms with our landlord.”
—Joel Graybeal, managing partner.
Oso Climbing Gym in Dallas, TX
Specs: 35,000-square-foot facility with a bouldering focus. Daily yoga, spinning, and functional fitness classes also offered. Additional amenities include a “floor-to-ceiling glass cardio room that overlooks the Dallas skyline,” locker rooms, showers, saunas, and on-site childcare for patrons.
Website: https://climboso.com/
In Their Words: “I set out to create something that, as a climber, I’ve wanted for a long time—a high-quality and expansive place to climb and hang out in the heart of Dallas. We had a chance to start with a blank slate, and we’re really excited about the range of amenities we’re bringing together—on top of what you’d expect at a climbing gym. That makes our facility something really unique.”
—Chris Whittaker, founder.
Have news you would like to share? CBJ would like to hear about your new gym projects, openings, closings, moves and new owners. Please drop us a note with the details.
What You Missed At This Year’s CWA Summit
Another CWA Summit has come and gone, and this one was the largest yet. Gym managers, route setters, manufacturer reps and many owners of climbing businesses converged on Loveland, Colorado, to share information and experiences. By the numbers…
- Nearly 1,000 attended
- 76 exhibitors on the floor
- 65 speakers on panels and workshops
- 49 educational sessions
Our coverage from CBJ is focused on three areas:
- A-to-Z exhibitor highlights in case you missed the show
- 6 cool new products we noticed on the exhibitor floor
- Gathering your feedback on workshops and presentations to help guide our future editorial direction.
With over 70 sessions spread across 5 days, suffice to say CBJ editors did not make it to every session. Like everyone else, we chose a few, missed most, but still learned a lot.
Which sessions would you have attended? Would you let us know by taking this survey? We will use the results to guide future editorial direction. Thank you for your time.