New Cincinnati Gym Expands Historic Chain

Climb Time Oakley
Photo: Climb Time Oakley

Climb Time Oakley Cincinnati, OH

Specs: Built from the ground up, Climb Time Oakley features close to 11,000 square feet of climbable wall space; this includes top ropes, lead walls, and bouldering areas. Additional amenities include a Tension board and a campus board, as well as a rowing machine, kettlebells, and free weights. Yoga classes and fitness clinics are expected to be incorporated into the facility’s offerings in the near future. The gym is within walking distance of MadTree Brewing, one of the region’s most popular craft beer breweries. Climb Time Oakley had its grand opening on August 31; a massive turnout saw a line of patrons outside wrapped around the corner, waiting to get in. The original Ohio Climb Time, located in Cincinnati’s Blue Ash region, opened in 1993—one of the first full-service climbing gyms to appear in the Midwest. Climb Time also had locations in Indianapolis and Lexington, and was one of the first U.S. climbing gym chains with three locations. In addition, the famed competition circuit American Bouldering Series (ABS) was born in Climb Time of Cincinnati from local comps they held in the late 90s.
Climb Time Oakley
Photo: Climb Time Oakley
CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: http://www.ctoba.com Development Word of Mouth: “In Cincinnati, it was just Climb Time Blue Ash and RockQuest. Then Mosaic Climbing opened in March—also in the north. But from more than 20 years of data from our customers, we knew that many lived in the central part of the city or downtown—a 40-minute commute or longer to get to a climbing gym. Our customers had been pleading with us to open another gym. This location [Oakley] reduces the drive time for many from an hour to 20 minutes… or they can walk here. I want to retain from [the Blue Ash location] that it’s a grassroots business. It’s about the people.” —Patty Law, President 

Popular Bay Area Gym Makes a Comeback

Planet Granite Santa Clara

Planet Granite Santa Clara, CA

Specs: 30,000-square-foot bouldering gym will feature 14-foot walls and also offer yoga and fitness classes. The gym will have Kilter and Tension boards, along with a weightlifting area, cardio equipment, and a gear shop. The gym is tied to history, as the first gym of the Planet Granite chain opened in Santa Clara in 1994 but eventually moved to Sunnyvale, California. According to a press release, the creation of the new Santa Clara Planet Granite was specifically due to the “overwhelming popularity of rock climbing and bouldering in the South Bay area.” The facility will be part of the El Cap family of gyms, and the aforementioned Planet Granite in Sunnyvale will remain open. Planet Granite Santa Clara Walls: Walltopia Walls Flooring: Cascade Specialty / Impact Floor Systems CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: https://planetgranite.com/santa-clara In Their Words: “We have an extremely supportive membership base in and around Sunnyvale. This is the perfect opportunity to provide those members with more climbing, and share our love for climbing and fitness with the larger community in Santa Clara.” —Robert Cohen, CEO of Planet Granite and Earth Treks

New Gym Coming to Orange County

Planet Granite Fountain Valley

Planet Granite Fountain Valley, CA

Specs: 30,000 square-foot (bouldering-only) facility just north of the popular Huntington Beach area of Southern California will feature 14-foot walls. Additional amenities will include a yoga studio and a training area with Kilter and Tension boards and hydraulic campus boards, as well as social lounges, work spaces, and a gear shop. The gym will offer various classes for adults and youth. It will be part of the El Cap family of gyms. Planet Granite Fountain Valley Walls: Walltopia Walls Flooring: Cascade Specialty / Impact Floor Systems CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: https://planetgranite.com/fountain-valley In Their Words: “I was born and raised in Orange County and this is where I fell in love with climbing. I’m eager to share that passion with all of our neighbors. My first goal is to build an amazing, community-driven team. Over the next couple months, we’ll be hiring for the front desk as well as climbing, fitness, and yoga instructors. Come join us!” —Do Nguyen, Director

Momentum Millcreek to Expand

Momentum Millcreek It was recently announced that Momentum Millcreek in Salt Lake City, Utah, plans to expand. The 24,000-square-foot facility will take over adjacent space that was previously occupied by Planet Fitness. As a result, the Millcreek gym will grow in size by 60 percent. The new space will be used for additional bouldering walls, a yoga studio, and a training area. Momentum Millcreek Website: www.momentumclimbing.com/millcreek Momentum Millcreek currently offers bouldering and roped climbing. It also offers amenities like weights, cardio equipment, and a kids area. The expansion of Millcreek takes the place of a previous project—a plan to open a new Momentum gym at Salt Lake City’s Trolley Square shopping area. At the time of this writing, the Trolley Square project has been shelved indefinitely. The expansion of the Millcreek gym is expected to be completed in the first half of 2020.

New Bouldering “Garden” To Open In The Pacific Northwest

Stone Gardens Tukwila

Stone Gardens Tukwila, WA

Specs: 22,000-square-foot bouldering facility scheduled to open in 2020 will include routes for all levels of climbers, as well as a fitness area with training boards, cardio equipment, and weights. The gym will have the potential to expand into a full-service, 40,000-square-foot gym with roped climbing once it is up and running. Of note is that one of the largest shopping malls in the Pacific Northwest, known as Westfield Southcenter, will be just north of the gym. The sprawling shopping area includes a movie theater, numerous retailers, and many restaurants. Other, preexisting Stone Gardens locations include gyms in Seattle and Bellevue, Washington. Walls: Walltopia Flooring: Flashed CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: www.stonegardens.com In Their Words: “Founder and CEO Keith Magnuson opened the first Stone Gardens in Seattle in 1995, expanded that gym several times, and opened Stone Gardens Bellevue in 2011. He chose to open the third gym in Tukwila, Washington to support the ever growing local climbing community, provide more jobs for the area’s climbers, and offer current employees opportunities to advance within the company. Keith chose to make Stone Gardens Tukwila a bouldering only gym for now because the building’s layout and clear-height make it a perfect fit for that use.” —Michael May, Assistant Climbing School Manager, Stone Gardens Bellevue

Back To School: Climbing Thrives at the College Level

It is that time of year when students around the country say goodbye to summer and gear up for the start of a new academic year at colleges and universities. While mention of college sports often conjures up thoughts of football on crisp autumn days or basketball tournament brackets amid the frenzy of March Madness, the sport of climbing is being offered by more schools every year—often in the form of recreational university clubs. There is also an annual Collegiate National Championship competition sanctioned by USA Climbing. To explore climbing at the collegiate level a little more and get an overview of how it looks in the university context, CBJ turned to College Outside. Through its membership program, College Outside helps university programs and educators obtain gear for outdoor adventure. Additionally, College Outside keeps track of schools’ roster lists and tracks which university climbing programs are most engaged with the services that College Outside offers. As a result, CBJ is able to provide a sampling of the top university climbing programs in the United States based on that data. “Since the Olympic committee sanctioned climbing and motion pictures like Free Solo hit the big screen, there is no doubt that climbing is trending upwards,” said Alaina Imberger, College Outside’s Director of Membership. “At College Outside, we certainly notice the growth of clubs and teams across the country. Climbing is special. It allows this generation of young people to experience a competitive sport in the collegiate arena, that also builds a bridge to the outdoors and encourages them to spend more time in mother nature.” Here’s a closer look at five of the top college climbing programs based on College Outside engagement and roster numbers:
Stanford Climbing Team
Photo: Stanford Climbing Team

Top Performing Student/Climbers Stanford University

Location: Palo Alto, CA Specs: The climbing wall on the Stanford campus is 28 feet tall, with approximately 7,000 square feet of climbing space. Last year, the school saw 26,000 check-ins at the wall, with 5,000 of those being unique individual users. Additionally, Stanford’s climbing team is the reigning champion of USA Climbing’s Collegiate National Championship. The climbing program at the university was spearheaded by climbers and Stanford Adventure Programs staffers Phil Sandlin and Andrew De Torres. It was those two who first shouldered the responsibility of teaching classes and managing the school’s climbing wall. But since then, the program has boomed in popularity and today there is a dedicated routesetting team at the school that aims for total route turnover every ten weeks. There is also a staff of certified climbing wall instructors to teach both academic and recreational climbing classes to students. The campus wall also hosts an annual bouldering competition called C.R.A.G. (Climbers Rage Against Gravity), as well as holiday-themed events. “Stanford attracts, recruits, and admits some of the most high achieving students in the nation,” says Francis Liaw of Stanford Adventure Programs. “Though the focus may be on academics, the students bring that mentality across all aspects of their lives. Therefore, if they enjoy climbing, they are striving to perform at a high level, which is potentially a reason why we currently have a climbing team that is back-to-back collegiate national champions. Conversely, the university encourages the students to broaden their horizons, challenge themselves, and experience new things; and that provides the opportunity for students who considered climbing the space and support to give it a try. The culmination of these diverging ideologies widens the spectrum of patrons that uses our facility and creates that special/unique/at times challenging climbing community.”
University of Michigan Climbing Team
Photo: University of Michigan Climbing Team

Community Is More Than A Wall University of Michigan

Location: Ann Arbor, MI Specs: The University of Michigan does not have a climbing wall on its campus, but those in the Michigan Climbing Club—currently around 200 members—usually turn to a nearby gym, Planet Rock, for their climbing sessions. This creates a unique synergy between the commercial gym and the university. “A lot of students try climbing at Planet Rock and fall in love with it, but lack a community,” says Shalina Gupta, the school’s climbing club president. “That’s where Michigan Climbing Club comes in, and our social activities and friendly members get people to stay.” The Michigan Climbing Club holds group climbing classes three times per week at Planet Rock and has recently added a climbing team. The club also focuses on outdoor climbing trips, making regular treks to Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, Stone Fort, and elsewhere. The university’s Central Campus Recreation Building is scheduled to get a climbing wall when it reopens from renovations in 2023. When speaking about the club’s growth, Gupta says that the members range in commitment, but there is a core group that attends social groups around the university. “For recruitment, we attend Festifall, Northfest, and Winterfest,” Gupta says. “These are the University of Michigan’s organization fairs where clubs can set up booths, talk to interested students, and advertise mass meetings. Aside from that, a lot of people hear about rock climbing from their friends or movies and email us expressing their interest in joining.”
West Virginia University
Photo: West Virginia University

Focus On The Outdoors West Virginia University

Location: Morgantown, WV Specs: The climbing wall at West Virginia University, constructed in 2001 within the school’s Student Recreation Center, is an elaborate structure that ranges from 35-50 feet in height. There are ten top rope sections on the wall, for a total of 3,500 square feet of climbing space. The wall gets frequented by approximately 250 climbers per week. There is also a bouldering portion of the wall that is statistically the most popular section. Although the university’s climbing club does not offer much specialized programming at the wall and opts instead to focus its programing and education on nearby outdoor crags, a climbing team was recently established with the aim of competing nationally. All the outdoor programming works in conjunction with the climbing club—with each spurring interest in the other. It creates a portion of the student body that is psyched about the outdoors and then eager to maintain that psyche at the school’s climbing wall. “I think what allows West Virginia University to have such a large and vibrant outdoor community is due to our fantastic first year trips (FYT) program that encourages students to take a 5-6-day trip in either the front- or backcountry the summer before their first year of college,” says Alex Kew, who heads up the university’s climbing wall. “This builds a love for the outdoors into students from the start and so they engage in other recreational activities across campus with that much more zeal.”
University of Massachusetts
Photo: University of Massachusetts Climbing Team

New Team For New Family University of Massachusetts

Location: Amherst, MA Specs: Like the University of Michigan, the University of Massachusetts does not have an on-campus climbing facility. The main gyms that serve the climbing needs of the student body are Central Rock Gym Hadley and El Dojo. The most prominent group of climbers at the University of Massachusetts are the members of the UMass Climbing Team. The 30-member squad that was started last year by student Brynne McConnell with the aid of another student, Nathaniel Murphy. The two were former high school varsity athletes—and in college they missed the challenge and team camaraderie of competitive sports. Soon they successfully got climbing recognized officially as a club sport at the university and held tryouts in the fall. Today, the team is a fun-loving but very structured group, with official practices being held at least two nights per week at Central Rock Hadley. “My long term vision for the team was to build a close-knit community where all the climbers at UMASS can come together and learn from one another,” reflects McConnell. “Coming from a history of team sports in high school, all of my teams felt like small families and I hope that the UMASS team can grow into that. UMASS also certainly has the talent to grow into a strong program over the next few years. Being located so close to some of the best outdoor climbing in New England certainly helps as well. All in all, I really just hope that the team can open up students to more opportunities and introduce climbing to people who might not have discovered the joy of climbing.”
York College of Pennsylvania
Photo: York College of Pennsylvania

Driven By Student Dedication York College of Pennsylvania

Location: York, PA Specs: The climbing wall on York’s campus is 32 feet tall and covers more than 1,000 square feet. There is also an attached bouldering area that is 11 feet tall. The various walls get frequented by approximately 120 climbers per week. The school offers climbing as an academic class, which meets at the wall once per week. (Homework for the class includes required additional climbing at least twice throughout the given week). The college’s climbing club was started approximately five years ago and quickly entered competitions as part of the Mid-Atlantic Climbing Competition Series. Other schools that frequently participate in the series include Loyola University Maryland, the University of Delaware, Towson University, and others. York’s climbing club—and its team—are technically a student organization, so they are assisted by the college’s sport and fitness center but remain mostly self-sufficient. Several members of the club also work at the climbing wall, helping to set routes and organize competitions. “The thing that makes York’s climbing community special is the passion and dedication of our students,” says Rachael Finley, Director of Campus Recreation at York. “Our students take ownership of our climbing competition, the routes, and the environment in the wall area. Through the mentorship of our Climbing Wall Manager, they are taught technical skills to keep the wall safe and create quality routes, but they also develop human skills to create an inclusive climbing environment and share their skills with others. Simply put, without our students, the wall would be worthless.”

“Dream Gym” Opens in Puerto Rico

El Bloque in Puerto Rico
Photo: El Bloque

El Bloque San Juan, Puerto Rico

Specs: 5,000-square-foot bouldering gym in Puerto Rico resides in what was once a vacant space following the ravage of Hurricane Maria in 2017. The facility features 13-foot walls, along with a yoga room, a training area, a lounge, a shower stall, and a retail shop.
El Bloque in Puerto Rico
Photo: El Bloque
Walls and Flooring: The walls were built by local artist and industrial designer Freddy Idoña; other parts of the gym’s architecture were overseen by another local, Jose Miranda. The foam flooring came from the Dominican Republic but was installed by the gym’s owner, Bryant Huffman, with the help of local friends. CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: www.elbloquepr.com In Their Words: “This dream actually started when the first full service climbing gym [Puerto Rico] was in its last days. I always felt the need for a space like this to exist here, and as a climber, what more could you ask for? Every year I worked a little here and there to always get shut down by the idea of the immensity of the project. It all came together after Hurricane Maria passed. The perfect spot got vacant and incredibly enough I had gathered enough throughout the years to start off. I worked in the movie industry for 14 years and basically took this on like a low-budget production, making ‘movie magic’ out of nothing, and this is what came out.” —Bryant Huffman, owner

Evolv Gets New Ownership

Evolv
Photo: The Spot Bouldering Gym / Alton Richardson
It was recently announced that Evolv has been acquired by the Oberalp Group, an Italian company that also owns Salewa, Wild Country, and other brands focused on “mountain sports.” The acquisition marks a broadening of the Oberalp Group within the outdoors consumer market. Evolv will remain based in Los Angeles, California, and founder Brian Chung will remain with the company. In a statement, Chung said, “I am extremely honored and excited for Evolv to become part of the Oberalp Group and look forward to strong global growth in the future. I have always had the highest respect for the Oberalp Group of brands for making industry-leading product and for the company’s commitment to sustainability which are values that Evolv shares.” As Chung referenced with global growth, the Oberalp Group will work to expand into new markets in Europe and Asia with Evolv—particularly as climbing gains exposure around the world with the upcoming 2020 Olympics, according to a press release. “We only do what we understand and are enthusiastic about. And that is the mountain, even in the form of a climbing hall,” said Christoph Engl, CEO of the Oberalp Group. “Our approach is focused on one theme—mountain sports. This is why the Evolv brand fits so well into Oberalp’s brand strategy. The acquisition of Evolv—with a clear focus on climbing shoes and a leadership position in its segment—was a logical step.” American professional climbers who currently work with Evolv in some capacity include Daniel Woods, Kai Lightner, Ashima Shiraishi, Paul Robinson, Steph Davis, and Alex Johnson.

Two North Americans Qualify for Tokyo 2020 Olympics

Brooke Raboutou - photo Eddie Fowke
Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC
History was recently made at the IFSC World Championships in Hachioji, Japan, as 18-year-old Brooke Raboutou (USA) and 31-year-old Sean McColl (CAN) became the first ever American and Canadian climbers to qualify for an Olympic Games. McColl and Raboutou were among six men and six women to provisionally earn a berth to the upcoming Olympics in Tokyo, taking place next summer. The other competitors in the women’s field who provisionally qualified for the 2020 Olympics include Great Britain’s Shauna Coxsey, Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret, Switzerland’s Petra Klingler, Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw and Austria’s Jessica Pilz. In the men’s field, Germany’s Alexander Megos, Austria’s Jakob Schubert, Kazakhstan’s Rishat Khaibullin, France’s Mickael Mawem and Italy’s Ludovico Fossali qualified as well. Four athletes from Japan will also receive berths at the IFSC World Championships, following the conclusion of the event later this week. Raboutou, a native of Boulder, Colorado, and a product of the training at ABC Kids Climbing, has been a well-known name in competitions from a young age. Born to decorated competitors Didier Raboutou and Robyn Erbesfield, Brooke Raboutou quickly carved out an identity of her own with victories on the national and international circuit. Most recently, she won a youth world championship in lead climbing last year and earned a spot on the American Overall National Team earlier this year. She has also been active on the IFSC’s World Cup circuits. McColl is a 3-time combined world champion and 2-time combined world cup season champion. Competing on the international circuit since 2001, McColl is a veteran athlete who has won multiple IFSC World Cup events and is currently ranked 8th in the world in lead climbing.
Sean McColl - photo Eddie Fowke
Photo: Eddie Fowke / IFSC
At the IFSC World Championships, McColl and Raboutou’s Olympic berth came as a result of their performances in the qualifying round of the “combined” discipline. The discipline multiplies scores from separate speed, bouldering and lead portions. Raboutou placed 6th in speed climbing, 10th in bouldering and 7th in lead for an overall placement of 9th. McColl placed 18th in speed, 15th in bouldering and 3rd in lead to finish in 10th place overall. A cap of two men and two women per country receiving the Olympic invitations — and an abundance of Japanese competitors—meant that Olympic slots ultimately went to McColl and Raboutou. Soon after, Raboutou wrote on her Instagram, “In a few days I should get a letter with my ticket to the 2020 olympics!!!” “I have had the dream of going to the Olympics since before I can remember; that becoming a reality now, in the sport of climbing that I love so dearly is just…unbelievable,” wrote McColl on his Instagram. McColl and Raboutou’s Olympic qualification leaves at most three spots for the USA and three spots for Canada on the Tokyo 2020 roster. The next competitions with Olympic qualification implications will take place in Toulouse, France, in November, with Continental Championships around the world to follow next year. A total of 20 athletes per gender will eventually take part in climbing at the 2020 Olympics.

CBJ Job Board: Matching Top Candidates and Positions

job seeker in climbing gym

Are you looking to hire qualified indoor climbing professionals? Or ready to take the next step in your career?

The Climbing Business Journal has been matching top candidates with top positions in climbing for years and maintains one of the industry’s most popular job boards. For businesses, we offer two affordable options for posting job openings, displayed for up to 60 days:
  1. FREE: any job, any time
  2. Featured ($75 per job): prominent position atop the job board and share on CBJ social media
For professionals, we offer free browsing of all current job listings. Below are recently posted jobs (find more jobs here):
  1. Climbing Centre Operations Manager at The Castle Climbing Centre in London, ENG
  2. Head Routesetter at Method Climbing in Newark, NJ
  3. Gym Manager at Inner Peaks in Charlotte, NC
  4. Assistant Head Routesetter at Project Rock in Oakland Park, FL
  5. General Manager at Island Rock in Long Island, NY
  6. Technical Sales and Support Representative at Aerial Adventure Tech in Todd, NC
  7. Elite Team Climbing Coach at ABC Kids Climbing in Boulder, CO
  1. Production Manager – Molding and Creating Climbing Holds at Vertical Solutions in Salt Lake City, UT
  2. Traveling Carpenter at Vertical Solutions in varied locations
  3. Assistant Head Route Setter at Planet Granite in Sunnyvale/Santa Clara, CA
  4. Youth Team Head Coach / Adult Team Head Coach at Metrock Rock in Everett, MA
  5. Assistant Head Route Setter at Planet Granite in Portland, OR
  6. Collegiate and Paraclimbing Series Manager at USA Climbing in Salt Lake City, UT
  7. Sponsorship and Development Director at USA Climbing in Salt Lake City, UT
  8. Head Route Setter at Vertical View in Meridian, ID
  9. Routesetter/Coach at Denver Bouldering Club in Denver, CO
  10. Lead Coach at Earth Treks in Golden, CO
  11. Director of Setting at Earth Treks/Planet Granite/El Cap in Englewood/Golden, CO
  12. Senior Routesetter at Stone Summit in Atlanta, GA
  13. General Manager at Brooklyn Boulders Hacienda in Hueco Tanks, TX
  14. Route Setter at Brooklyn Boulders in Somerville, MA

We often publish news about major hires at larger climbing businesses as well. If you are a manufacturer or chain of gyms that just hired a new C.E.O. please send us your press release!