Using Data to Make Connections in Climbing Gyms with Klimbz

Image: Ken Haller, founder of Klimbz, connecting with the great outdoors. © Klimbz
[Branded Content] According to the State of Climbing Report 2019 published by the American Alpine Club, 65% of climbers are between the ages of 18 and 35, based on data provided by the Outdoor Industry Association. In other words, “OIA’s demographic data suggests that if you head to the nearest gym or crag, you’ll see a lot of Millennials.” Forbes reports that Millennials spend an average of five-and-a-half hours per day on their phones. The mobile world is here and climbing gyms are inevitably part of it. In an industry with roots in the wild, digitization doesn’t come without push back. CBJ once reported on the ban of phones/media devices in climbing areas at one gym which had concerns they would negatively impact the sense of community or endanger climbers because users would not be adequately aware of their surroundings. Responsible use of headphones, specifically, was reinstated in bouldering areas after a survey showed gym members did not feel they were negatively impacting the sense of community. What would it look like for technology to exist in climbing gyms not only without inhibiting community but also as a tool for improving connections between climbers, setters and competitors? A tech innovator in the climbing industry is embracing exactly that ethos: Klimbz, a leader in data-driven gym management software.

Engaged Climbers of All Abilities

Climbing gyms often cultivate an unparalleled sense of community, but first encounters can be intimidating for inexperienced climbers, as pointed out in this article on CBJ. By taking a proactive approach, climbing gyms can positively impact new climber retention and promote inclusivity. With Klimbz, gyms help first timers get an understanding of the layout of the gym and assist them in finding appropriate climbs to try with the filtering of routes in the platform.
© Klimbz
When there can be 200 routes and boulders to choose from at a climbing gym, sorting through the options can become overwhelming, even for the most seasoned climbers. Incorporating a platform like Klimbz at a gym allows members to see what is new and create To Do lists, and the Recommendation engine suggests similar climbs to try. Members inspired to climb harder grades and coaches of youth teams with sights set on local competitions or USA Climbing championships can use the Coaching section to create workouts with various exercises – from climbing 4 x 4’s to pull-ups – to record progress and make changes to training regimes according to hard data. “During the months I am chasing grades for my team score, I find that the tracking and compilation tools are very useful. Maybe, if I used it more, I would be way stronger!” says Chris McFarland, Operations Manager at the Salt Lake City facility of Momentum Climbing, which incorporates the Klimbz app across many of its climbing gyms for climbers and routesetters.

Empowered Routesetters

For employees in any industry, technological advancements can mean loss of employment, when labor power is supplanted by machine power. According to Forbes, up to 1 in 4 workers will need to change occupations due to the impact of automation. Klimbz was created with the opposite goal in mind: to empower routesetters, the indispensable employees behind the most important product of any gym.
© Klimbz
“Using a route management software is the best way to provide a comprehensive, real-time assessment of route distribution within the gym. Coupled with a customer interface, users are provided with tools to track their climbing and progress and easy ways to locate new routes within their range and ability,” says McFarland. Gyms pay professionals to create innovative, thoughtful and intricate movements on walls, creativity which can’t be replaced. By integrating the Klimbz platform into routesetting management, operators open the space for a gym-wide dialogue between climbers and routesetters which can support the creative routesetting process with quantifiable data on climber preferences. This basic information helps routesetters develop into well-rounded artists at the top of their trade. Klimbz also helps to improve communication between routesetting teams and operations. Climbers enter their ticks, attempts and quality ratings of completed routes on their phones at any time, and routesetters receive feedback from any location to improve setting strategies together, decide on new route styles or holds, coordinate setting schedules and communicate with managers. “I think it’s really important that people can look at the boulders, see what’s set and give us some feedback. When I’m setting, it’s very important to me that the climb climbs well, that it’s appropriate for the grade that we’re putting on it as well as visually appealing for people,” says David Daviau, routesetter at Hub Climbing in Toronto, which supports the performance of its routesetting team with the Klimbz platform. “Klimbz is definitely really good for making our lives easier in terms of organization.”

Community-Centered Competitions & Leagues

On July 19th, dozens of climbers crowded into Momentum Millcreek for a 24-Hour Climbathon fundraiser of nearly nonstop climbing. Altogether, 41,000 feet were climbed to raise money for Elevated Mountain Guides (EMG), a climbing nonprofit with the mission of making the outdoors more accessible to underserved communities. Throughout the competition, the scores of competitors were automatically calculated and followed in the Klimbz app. “It worked so well, I can’t thank you enough!” said Nikki McGee, Founder of EMG. Four years ago, Momentum Indoor Climbing decided to engage their community by starting an Adult Bouldering League in their gyms. For the past four years, they have been successfully using Klimbz to run aspects of the league. Over the years, a handicap scoring system was developed that allows beginner climbers to “compete” against advanced climbers, making the experience more enjoyable for all competitors. 40 participants per gym consistently sign-up to compete. The scoring and managing of the league is taken care of through Klimbz and reduces the time and energy required of gym employees. Since 2016, the Klimbz platform has been used by climbing gyms across North America and Australia to easily track scoring of climbing competitions and leagues, events which can bring gym members together or unite climbers for a specific cause. It takes the spreadsheet to the next level by automating the process and placing the data in the hands of every competitor for immediate results entry and viewing. The goal? Successful, community-centered climbing focused on helping gyms and climbers become better. “The fact that everyone got seamlessly scored and entered into the system without my even knowing it is a testament to how well your system worked in real time,” said Cliff of GP-81 in Brooklyn, in response to using Klimbz for the GreenPoint RedPoint competition. Contact Klimbz (info@klimbz.com) today to bring the fully customizable platform to your community’s climbers, league participants, routesetters and competitions. .
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Movement Joins the El Cap Family

Movement Joins El Cap
Photo: Movement / El Cap
It was recently announced that El Cap, among the largest national networks of climbing gyms, has acquired Movement Climbing and Fitness. Other gym chains already under the El Cap network include Earth Treks and Planet Granite. The news of Movement’s joining of El Cap spread through an email titled “The Next Horizon,” which was sent in the form of a letter addressed to members of the Movement community. “We believe that by positioning ourselves with the prominently growing group in the country, we can have an incredibly positive impact on the rock climbing industry at a national level, offer more services to members and guests, and more career possibilities to staff,” the letter, collectively authored by Movement’s founders Anne-Worley and Mike Moelter, stated. “We believe the sum is greater than the parts. Collectively, Movement, Earth Treks, and Planet Granite will stand beside each other to affect positive change in the climbing industry.” The announcement also noted that members of Movement gyms will have membership access to Earth Treks and Planet Granite facilities around the country. It also stated that membership options will remain unchanged for the remainder of the year, with new member pricing going into effect for Earth Trek members at the onset of 2020. Guest passes and retail discounts will not carry over across the different gym brands just yet. A subsequent press release indicated 16 climbing gyms (including the three Movement facilities) will now be in the El Cap network—serving a total of 4 million patrons annually. El Cap’s CEO, Robert Cohen, was quoted as saying, “This is a very special opportunity for us all. Movement Climbing and Fitness’ premier locations and high-quality services align with El Cap’s climbing gyms, and they have an impressive team that supports these functions. These gyms will expand access with one membership and allow us to collectively continue our work in building a stronger climbing community for all to participate in.”

CBJ Gym Map Is Back (And You Can Win Free Holds)

CBJ Gym Map CBJ is proud to announce that its gym map has been updated and redesigned. The map features a detailed listing of every climbing gym in the United States and Canada. The gym map can be searched according to climbing type, opening year, and whether a facility is operational or still in its planning and development stages. There are upgrades planned and your feedback is welcome. In the coming months additional updates and filters are planned to be released, including size of facility, features like IFSC speed wall and training boards, programs like yoga and day care, and more. “The CBJ Gym Map is a valuable resource for staying up-to-date on the rapidly changing landscape of indoor climbing in North America. Thanks CBJ!” – Jackie Hueftle, Kilter
Routesetter Bundle from Chalk Cartel
 
CBJ Gym Survey
Photo: Ryan Spence

Win Free Climbing Holds

Help CBJ add new map search functionality by updating your facility profile here. Any facilities that do this by November 15th will be entered to win free climbing holds! Three lucky climbing gyms will win $500, $300 or $200 of brand new grips from any US-based brand. For gyms on the map, CBJ also mailed you a hardcopy of this survey. Your time is appreciated in helping CBJ develop this industry resource.

Tools For Climbing Industry Professionals

The gym map has been a hallmark of CBJ since the website’s early days, and has proven useful for countless gym development projects over the years. The map data also underpins CBJ’s annual Gyms and Trends report. Along with the gym map, a Jobs & Professionals section has been added to CBJ’s homepage, making it easier for users to access and search job openings in the climbing industry. If you are looking for good talent, posting your job on CBJ can help you find it. And, as part of the new map’s unveiling, this month’s Behind the Desk column features an interview with Jon Lachelt, owner of Ascent Studio in Fort Collins, Colorado, and the mastermind behind the original gym map’s data functionality.

Where Computers and Climbing Meet: Behind The Desk With Jon Lachelt

Behind the Desk…is an ongoing series that profiles people influencing and advancing the industry in gyms from coast to coast. For this installment, CBJ explores how a long-time climber’s background in technology was uniquely applied to the climbing industry. But, in talking to Jon Lachelt, we also get psyched that maybe climbing will someday be a sanctioned sport at high schools across the nation. In full disclosure, Lachelt has been an important part of CBJ for years as the mastermind behind our Gym Map which was first released almost 5 years ago. But his unique story is worthy of being told, regardless of his close affiliation with us.
Jon Lachelt on Castleton Tower
Jon Lachelt with his business partner on top of Castleton Tower, Utah. Photo: Jon Lachelt.
Name: Jon Lachelt Title: Owner, Ascent Studio Location: Fort Collins, Colorado CBJ: You have a background—and a previous career—in computer software development. That’s pretty unique, so how did the evolution happen, from software engineer to climbing gym operator? LACHELT: I worked for Hewlett-Packard for almost 30 years before the transition. I had decided a few years prior that I didn’t want to continue as an engineer for the rest of my career, but back then I wasn’t immediately sure what I would do instead. I had never considered owning my own business before, so it took quite a while before I could convince myself that I could make a go of it with a rock gym. Soon after I started considering the idea of opening a gym (2006), I ran across a notice in a forum on RockClimbing.com about a routesetting clinic being hosted at the soon-to-open Rock Club (in New Rochelle, NY). I got in contact with the owner and asked if I could come for a long week around the clinic and just hang out with him—doing whatever odd jobs he needed doing, so that I could pick his brain about the whole process. He was very gracious and I ended up staying at his house for the week and learned a lot about the process, and he even shared with me his pro-forma. Then, the next year (2007) was the first Climbing Wall Association Summit. At that Summit, I met so many gym operators/owners who were quite open and supportive of new potential gym owners. Simply knowing that the industry was so supportive and encouraging made the possibility of opening a gym much more tangible. Finally, in 2013 HP offered an early retirement incentive and I decided to take it. I figured being ‘retired’ (read: ‘unemployed’) was the incentive I needed to actually overcome the inertia and security of a steady income in a comfortable job. And soon after that I connected with a truly retired friend from church who was intrigued with the idea of a climbing gym and willing to be a partner and investor. At that point I knew that my dream would actually become a reality. Since there were not any available tall buildings in Fort Collins [Colorado], we had to build from the ground-up, which I was keen to do anyway since I knew that I wanted a very open structure with a lot of windows. That whole process of design and getting through the development planning with the city took another three years before we opened in November, 2016.
Ascent Studio
Photo: Ascent Studio
CBJ: Has your computer and technological background proved applicable in climbing in any ways? LACHELT: I can’t say I’ve used my computer skills very much since leaving HP. Working on the CBJ Gym Map was probably the most significant thing I’ve done since then. That process started while I was putting together my business plan. I suppose I was—no, I actually was—a little OCD about making a complete list of all the gyms in the United States. I didn’t want to simply give vague estimations of how many gyms there were, and how many had closed, and how big they were. I wanted real data. So I compiled the most comprehensive list of gyms I could. When Mike Helt [previous owner of CBJ] approached me about a collaboration on maintaining the database and creating an active, searchable map, I was pretty excited to figure out how to make it happen. That was a fun process that I have to admit was a nice distraction from the sometimes tedium of getting a loan, and the back-and-forth with the city planning folks.
The Hold Room
  CBJ: You also have a background as a climbing coach at Colorado High School. There are a lot of youth climbing teams these days, but not many that are directly affiliated with a school. How did that gig come about for you? LACHELT: Well, I really have to be honest, I wasn’t much of a coach. I’m an average climber at best, and it’s hard to coach someone when they quickly get to be better than you are. A friend at the gym had started coaching a team comprised of any high school students in the Fort Collins area. As the team grew it seemed obvious that he needed another body to help, so I volunteered. That team competed in the Colorado High School Climbing League (CHSCL), started by CityRock in Colorado Springs. The CHSCL provides a second avenue, in addition to USA Climbing, for students to get involved in competitive climbing. The CHSLC at least in form meshes with the familiar concept of representing their school in a sport they enjoy. The difficulty of that is that climbing is rarely embraced by public high schools. They have a skewed perspective on risk and liability. One of the students in the league actually had the experience of talking with school administrators who said that students could have a school-sanctioned climbing club—as long as they didn’t actually climb. (The school’s insurance thought it would be too risky). To that I say, you’ve got to be kidding… you let kids play football for crying out loud…kids actually die as a direct or indirect result of participating in that sport (13 kids in 2017). As far as I know, in the whole history of youth indoor climbing competitions, I don’t think there have been any deaths. Because of that the CHSCL operates apart from the normal high school sport ethos. Any liability is borne by the gyms and the association between the teams and their schools is pretty much at arm’s length.
Thrill Seeker Holds
  CBJ: To that point, what factors would need to fall in place for more schools to have climbing teams on a widespread, national scale? LACHELT: I think of three things. First, obviously the liability issue would have to be overcome for the schools to actually acknowledge that their students are participating in such a ‘dangerous’ sport. Secondly, high school sports teams have a lot of rules around eligibility and coach-player interaction outside of the sport’s ‘season.’ Many organized sports don’t lend themselves to adults and youth rubbing shoulders while participating in the activity. But with climbing, whether it’s at the gym or at a crag, it’s really normal for youth and adults to be in the same space, working on the same problems/routes, climbing at the same crag, encouraging each other, sharing beta, etc. Climbing, at least in an outdoor context, depends on the concept of mentorship. To put artificial barriers in place to prevent ‘coaching’ from happening outside of a season would (in my opinion) change the nature of the activity. This is one reason the CHSCL has specifically not tried to come under the umbrella of the Colorado High School Sports and Activities Association (CHSSAA) that regulates all of its constituent sports. Thirdly, gym space is at a premium. My gym, for instance, is busy enough that members sometimes complain about the climbing team getting in the way of their climbing. There simply are not enough hours in the day, or days of the week, for us to have two or three other teams trying to find time to practice that won’t negatively impact our members’ experience.
Battle for the Fort at Ascent Studio
A packed house for Ascent Studio’s Battle for the Fort competition. Photo: Ascent Studio
CBJ: How does a gym in Colorado like Ascent Studio find an identity when there are so many climbing options—both indoors and outdoors? LACHELT: Good question. We are always trying to figure that out also. We’ve differentiated ourselves from the outset by our purpose-built facility. Of course, that can’t be the sole differentiator. A climbing gym is a lot more than the building and the walls. Our gym, and most forward-thinking gyms nowadays, are focused on how they can best support and grow the local and regional climbing community. A healthy climbing community means more customers and members. For us that means making many and varied opportunities for people to meet each other and connect around climbing and even non-climbing activities. CBJ: I read an article where you cautioned against gym owners comparing their community to any other community. I think that’s great advice. What are some things a gym can—or should—do to bring out the strengths and uniqueness of the community in which it resides? LACHELT: I think that comment might have been related to comparing your city/region to another similarly sized city and using the success (or failure) of a gym in that city as a basis for gauging the potential for your gym to succeed. We all know that there are many, many factors that feed into the success of a climbing gym. Population is one factor… maybe even just a small factor. But to your question, one thing I love about climbing gyms is that each one is unique. Even the franchised gyms have unique walls, unique buildings, the type of climbing at their local crags is different, etc. Some gyms have an owner/manager with a lot of visibility in the greater climbing world (think Hans Florine at Diablo Rock Gym in Concord, California) or put up a lot of FAs in their local crags, but many gyms are run by a relative nobody in the climbing world (such as myself). As for what gyms can specifically do, I think of two things: First, give your staff the opportunity to express themselves through the gym. If someone has an idea for a program to run, an event to host, or local charity to sponsor, figure out how to make it happen. Climbing gyms have so many avenues for the personalities of the staff and local community to be manifest. If you limit yourself to the ideas of the owner/manager, then you’re going to get a very narrow vision for what the gym could become. Second, if you have a local climbing advocacy group, then you really should look for ways to partner with them for events and support them as best you can.

Oregon’s New Bad Weather Alternative

Image: Brimstone Boulders

Brimstone Boulders, Hood River, OR

Specs: 4,800-square-foot facility in the Columbia River Gorge area of Oregon will feature bouldering walls and yoga classes. The gym will also house some assorted fitness equipment. The facility will reside in the sanctuary space of a former Methodist church—portions of which were built in the late 1800s. Located in downtown Hood River, Brimstone Boulders will be within easy walking distance of nearly 30 restaurants, coffee shops, breweries, wine tasting rooms, and other popular shops.
Image: Brimstone Boulders
Walls: Vertical Solutions Flooring: Habit Climbing CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: brimstoneboulders.com In Their Words:“The Gorge has felt like home to me since the first time I moved here in 2007. More important, the community here feels like my family. We believe they deserve a place to gather and do something fun and active when the weather goes to hell.” — Jen Altschul, Co-Owner

Finding Time To Volunteer: Behind The Desk With Emily Moore

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Behind the Desk… is an ongoing series that profiles people influencing and advancing the climbing industry across the country. This month, CBJ heads out of the gyms and into the mountains to talk to Emily Moore, the Events Manager at the Climbing Wall Association. Moore sits on the board of the Flatirons Climbing Council in Boulder, Colorado, and took a few minutes out of a busy day to talk about communal support, the privilege of climbing access, and why it is important to volunteer.
Emily Moore
Photo: Emily Moore / LinkedIn
CBJ: Climbing Wall Association is a non-profit organization that offers a wide array of information and consultation and resources to gyms around the country. What inspired you to pursue an ongoing role at a climbing non-profit? MOORE: I was privileged to be given access to this sport through friends who mentored me through my first figure eight knots, multi-pitch climbs, and boulder top-outs. Climbing has brought a connected and supportive community to my life, and with the expansion of the climbing gym industry, I’m glad to know that more folks can have access to this kind of community. Working at a climbing nonprofit, the CWA, means I get to focus on big picture problems facing the climbing world, which keeps life interesting. I’ve had the opportunity to collaborate with some exceptional leaders and changemakers who believe in the power of climbing and have dedicated their lives to making climbing a better experience for more people. It is very fulfilling to have this meaningful career opportunity that demands all of my skills in service of, ultimately, community development. CBJ: Why did you decide to help Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC)? MOORE: How it came together was all very happenstance. I reached out to the FCC after noticing one of their events on Facebook. I wanted to attend, but I was going to be out of town, so I checked their website for an events calendar and reached out over email to find out about volunteering opportunities. It turned out the FCC was in need of a new board member to support outreach and social media efforts. The FCC has built important relationships to ensure sport climbing can be sustainably developed in the Flatirons. Climbing access is a privilege, not necessarily a right! And the FCC board members have invested a great deal of personal time over the years to ensure this privilege is maintained. I feel lucky to have the chance to contribute to this mission and learn from these board members who are setting a strong leadership example for our community.
Emily Moore at Flagstaff Trash Bash
Emily sorting raffle goodies behind the scenes at 20th Flagstaff Trash Bash. Photo: Scott Rennak
CBJ: Now that you’re on the FCC board, any words of wisdom or caution to others considering non-profit roles? MOORE: I think the key is developing a strong sense of personal balance. If you work for a nonprofit, it’s likely that there are more problems to solve than there are resources to put towards them. Rather than getting overwhelmed, or taking on too much, it’s an important lesson to learn when to say ‘no’ in service of your top priorities. You’ll be happier and healthier for it, and so will your families and partners and colleagues. This comes easier for some people, but I’ve had to hone that over the years. CBJ: Why do you think volunteering is important for people who work in the [climbing] business? MOORE: We are all so busy! Volunteering has always been this reset button for me. It reminds me to slow down and consider the big picture. There are plenty of opportunities to volunteer in the climbing world, whether for an event, or a local climbing organization, or with public land organizations. It’s important to take the time, even if it’s just once or twice a year, to offer your support to these causes that keep our community strong. And I think it’s contagious: once I get that energy boost that comes from getting involved with a volunteer event, I’m motivated to continue giving my time and encouraging my network to get involved, too. CBJ: What’s the best part of volunteering? MOORE: In the past, I more frequently volunteered as a one-off contributor. That is still a meaningful way to support community efforts, because it’s accessible to those with busy schedules. I’ve enjoyed supporting the FCC in an ongoing capacity because I’ve been able to dig deeper into the mission and learn more about the mechanics of volunteer-run organizations. If you have the time to commit to an ongoing volunteer position, I would recommend getting involved.

Ask A Lawyer: Are All Climbing Gyms At Risk Of Being Shut Down?

Word quickly spread around the global climbing world about an article recently published in The Irish Times. The article reported that all gyms in Ireland could be at risk of closing because the main gym insurance provider in that country is no longer willing to write policies for gyms—and other insurance companies there seem reluctant to cover the sport of climbing. The situation has us wondering whether a similar unfortunate insurance decision on a mass scale could occur in the United States. We reached out to attorney Jason Pill and asked him to dive into that question for this month’s installment of Ask a Lawyer. If you have a legal question about your gym that you’d like Jason to tackle in a future column, submit your legal question here.

QUESTION: “Irish climbing gyms are facing an immediate risk of being shut down—are American climbing gyms next?”

PILL: The short answer is: not likely, but there is concern to be had based on the issues in Ireland. This news is troubling and may have staggering consequences, in Ireland and abroad. Without insurance, Irish climbing gyms now fear that they may need to shut down. The Irish Times headline speaks to the magnitude of the issue: “All Irish climbing walls could close after insurance provider pulls out.” How did we get here? Insurance Primer To understand the problem, we need to understand how insurance works (stay with me, this part will be brief). The basic premise of insurance is that the carrier (the insurer) collects small amounts of money (premiums) from its clients (the insureds) and pools that money together to cover large, unexpected losses. The carrier employs actuaries to evaluate various statistics to determine these premiums, based on risk factors and the size of the risk pool. Critical to that analysis, the carrier relies on the law of large numbers to ensure that its actuarial statistics are reliable. As the pool of insureds grows, the likelihood of risks occurring (e.g., climbing gym injuries) gets closer to the expected average and the carrier can more accurately spread the risk between its insureds—which keeps the entire endeavor manageable for climbing gyms and profitable for carriers. Conversely, if the pool of insureds is too small, the risks are less predictable and the risk is harder to spread among the insureds. This analysis is complicated in the climbing industry because insuring climbing gyms is a relatively new trend in the insurance world, so there is a lack of reliable statistics on injury risks and the corresponding legal exposure, which creates more unpredictability in setting premiums and managing risks. Carriers don’t like unpredictability. This whole process hinges on the precarious balancing act of finding the right premium rate that will be sufficient for the carrier to pay its insureds’ unexpected claims in the future (e.g., lawsuits), pay the carrier’s expenses, and allow the carriers to make a reasonable profit. And, of course, the carrier must always ensure that the premium is not so high that it turns away customers. Other industries in Ireland have experienced similar issues with premiums rising and have pushed back by looking for alternative sources or simply proceeding without insurance, demonstrating that carriers can’t just raise the premiums.  That’s when the balancing act fails. Out of Balance The primary issue cited by the carriers in Ireland is that the legal costs associated with climbing gym injuries are rising too high, and thus setting affordable premiums for climbing gyms no longer remains viable for the carriers, who fear losing money. The Irish Times article explains that an average climbing gym premium has been €14,000 annually, while a payout for one minor ankle injury could be up to €54,700. The lack of extensive data adds to the uncertainty when setting premiums and the imbalance in the system, and the carriers appear to have decided that raising the premiums will not resolve the issue. Although the primary issue appears to be the rising legal costs, there’s more to it than that because the rising costs of litigation are not just a problem in Ireland. America, known for its litigious population, also is seeing increasing litigation costs across the board. (I dare you to go one day without seeing an ad for a plaintiffs’ firm offering to bring a lawsuit on your behalf at no cost). Looking past the rising costs of litigation and lack of sufficient data, a corollary issue appears to be the limited number of climbing gyms in Ireland, which prevents the carriers from adequately spreading the risk between its insureds in that market, for that line of business. Relatedly, and also unlike the American market, there are very few carriers of climbing gym insurance in Ireland. Insurance only remains viable if there are insureds who pay premiums, but don’t make claims. Statistically speaking, with a large enough pool of insureds, the carrier is bound to have a significant portion of the risk pool not make a claim, and those unused premiums help cover the other insureds’ claims. That appears to be the problem Ireland is facing because there are not enough gyms to create a large enough risk pool in that market to offset the rising costs. The numbers bear this out. An unofficial online search located less than 25 climbing gyms or climbing walls in Ireland; by contrast, there are more than 70 climbing gyms in California alone. For the majority of climbing gyms, the lack of insurance is not an option.  Rarely is a business legally required to maintain insurance, but many gyms are required to maintain insurance under the terms of their lease agreement or commercial loan documents.  So, while the specter of increased litigation may cause some gyms to close, the driving factor for most gyms likely will be the inability to satisfy their lease and loan agreements. The Tipping Point Stateside, our risk of experiencing a similar issue is greatly diminished by the large number of domestic climbing gyms—which allows carriers to better spread the risk and maintain proper balance between premiums and potential exposure—and the increased number of carriers in the market. Moreover, the number of domestic climbing gyms has steadily risen for years, so there likely will continue to be a sufficient pool of gyms to maintain reasonable premiums. This larger pool of insureds also has helped provide more injury risk data, and this allows the carriers to determine the appropriate premiums that make business sense for the carriers and the climbing gyms. That said, the costs of litigation have continually increased and we could reach a tipping point in the United States where carriers no longer find it economically feasible to insure climbing gyms if the risks become too costly. By way of example, certain insurance carriers decline to insure gun ranges because of the heightened risk exposure and potential for catastrophic litigation. If climbing gyms started to experience more frequent or severe accidents that, in turn, resulted in more insurance payouts (litigation or otherwise), that could start changing the insurance dynamic.  Naturally, carriers would start raising premiums to account for the increased risk profile, but at a certain point, some climbing gyms would find the premiums too pricey and elect to self-insure (a diplomatic way of describing a company that does not obtain insurance but—hopefully—sets aside a pool of money to address unexpected losses) or simply close. If too many climbing gyms self-insure, the risk pool could become too small and force carriers to evaluate whether to continue issuing policies at all. Although this risk does not appear to be at our doorstep, it certainly should be monitored and serves as a reminder for gyms to: (1) audit their insurance policies and make sure they have sufficient coverage; (2) ensure that they are implementing robust safety protocols and procedures to mitigate injury risks; (3) maintain strong liability waivers that may be used as a defense in any subsequent litigation; and (4) if an injury occurs in the gym, immediately contact the carrier to preserve all coverage options. Taking these steps will reduce the likelihood of litigation and, hopefully, keep down the insurance premiums for all climbing gyms.
Note: This recurring column offers general advice and is not intended to be used as direct legal counsel. Gym owners should consult a lawyer for their facility’s specific legal matters. Pill can be contacted directly here.

New USA Climbing Hire to Oversee Collegiate and Paraclimbing Series

Photo: USA Climbing
The main governing body of American competition climbing, USA Climbing, recently announced that Rachel Owens has been hired as the organization’s new Collegiate and Paraclimbing Series Manager. The role will entail Owens working closely with USA Climbing’s CEO, Marc Norman, as well as the organization’s collegiate and paraclimbing committees. Outwardly, Owens will also work with colleges and universities—and, presumably gyms—across the country with a long-term goal of getting climbing recognized as an NCAA sport. Such designation would mean that collegiate climbers would be regulated by the same organization that regulates collegiate football players, basketball players, and other student-athletes. Also, being an NCAA-sanctioned sport would mean that the NCAA would oversee college climbing’s national championships. Owens will also be working to grow and standardize USA Climbing’s Paraclimbing series on a domestic level with a goal of inclusion in a future Paralympic Games. In a press release about the hire, CEO Norman said, “Collegiate and Paraclimbing are important, fast growing constituencies within our sport and warrant dedicated support and attention. Rachel [Owens] has an excellent blend of collegiate and NGB experience, and we’re confident she’ll be a tremendous asset as we work to implement our strategies for these two important series.” The chair of USA Climbing’s Paraclimbing Committee, Maureen Beck, added, “The Paraclimbing community is excited to welcome Rachel to our family. Our growing number of competitors will greatly benefit from having someone dedicated to our discipline. Filling this position shows USA Climbing’s commitment to supporting all of its disciplines, Paraclimbing included.” The hiring of Owens comes just weeks after USA Climbing also hired Kelly Feilke to serve as the new Vice President of Marketing, Communications, and Development.

Stop Use Issued For Some Perfect Descent Auto Belays

Photo: Perfect Descent
The following press release was sent yesterday by Perfect Descent Climbing Systems: Littleton, CO – C3 Manufacturing, maker of Perfect Descent Auto Belays, today announced a voluntary recall associated with the retraction springs in certain Model 220 Perfect Descent Auto Belays. Only units identified in the Official Notice require action and no other products have been affected. While no accidents have been reported, it is believed that a material defect in certain springs make them more likely to partially or completely fracture. Complete fracture of the retraction spring will cause the lanyard to stop retracting and, in some cases, may allow the lanyard to pay out thereby introducing additional slack in the system. An immediate stop use has been issued for affected units and upon return and inspection, the manufacturer will complete a warranty upgrade to the Duplex Spring Design now standard in all Perfect Descent Auto Belays. This twin spring system is comprised of two independent retraction springs that create redundancy within the retraction mechanism. The daily inspection procedure provides a simple method to confirm proper dual spring operation. While rare, fractures of the retraction spring most often occur when a unit has been stored with the lanyard extended overnight and for long periods of time. This practice keeps the spring in a tensioned state that may reduce its lifespan. Auto belay users are always encouraged to store auto belays with the lanyard retracted and to complete the inspections as outlined in the Operations Manual. If you believe you may have an auto belay that is part of this recall, please review the Official Stop Use Notice found at https://www.perfectdescent.com/product-notices and follow the instructions for inspection and warranty upgrades. Got questions? Email support@perfectdescent.com

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