Duffy, Yip Round Out North American Roster for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics

Colin Duffy and Alannah Yip Rounding Out North American Roster for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics
Colin Duffy (right) and Alannah Yip (left) climbing at IFSC PanAmerican Championships Los Angeles. All photos by Daniel Gajda / IFSC
At the IFSC PanAmerican Championships last weekend, Alannah Yip and Colin Duffy rounded out the North American roster for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Duffy is the fourth and final member of Team USA to qualify for Tokyo 2020 – Nathaniel Coleman, Kyra Condie and Brooke Raboutou already qualified at previous qualification events – and Yip joins Sean McColl as the representatives of Team Canada. The combined event (lead, bouldering, speed) took place at Sender One climbing gym in Los Angeles.
Retail chalk from Chalk Cartel
 

Duffy’s Rise

A Colorado local and member of Team ABC, 16-year-old Duffy has become an American phenom in competition climbing. Internationally, he quickly rose to prominence by winning back-to-back youth world championships in Youth B Lead in 2017-2018. Duffy has excelled at home as well, and especially of late. He kicked-off 2020 by claiming the USA youth bouldering title in Youth A and placed second at the USA Combined Invitational. Now, he is the youngest climber to qualify for Tokyo 2020.
Colin Duffy and Team ABC coach Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, after qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics
Colin Duffy with Team ABC coach Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou after qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.
“I’d like to thank my parents, my climbing team back in Boulder, Colorado, the whole US team and anyone who supported me up to this point,” said Duffy after the award ceremony.

Yip’s Rebound

Yip hails from Vancouver and has been competing in international climbing competitions since 2007. She is a regular on the IFSC World Cup circuit and excels in bouldering, ranking tenth in the world. After missing out on Olympic berths at the previous qualification events in Toulouse and Hachioji, Yip rebounded in Los Angeles. She relied on her strong bouldering performance in the finals to join longtime family friend McColl in qualifying for Tokyo.
Alannah Yip qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics
Alannah Yip at the IFSC PanAmerican Championships in Los Angeles.
“I still can’t believe it. I’m going to the Olympics! So thankful for everyone’s support, near and far,” said Yip on her Instagram. Los Angeles marked the last Tokyo 2020 qualification event for North American athletes. So far, the US and Japan are the only countries to reach full quota (two men and two women). The Olympics in Tokyo will take place on August 4-7 and will be a first for climbing. The list of qualified athletes can be found on the IFSC website, and a complete guide to climbing at the Olympics can be read here.

Helping People Do What They Were Born to Do: Behind the Desk at CityROCK

Behind the Desk…is an ongoing series that profiles people influencing and advancing the industry in gyms around the country. This time CBJ does something a bit different and chats with two people at the same time. In fact, it’s an ongoing team effort for Lara Grosjean and Heather Robinson at CityROCK in Colorado Springs, Colorado. And since the gym has gone through a massive remodel and celebrated its 10th anniversary last month, there is a lot to discuss.
Competition and community behind the desk at CityROCK in Colorado Springs, CO
Competition and community at CityROCK in Colorado Springs, CO. All images courtesy of CityROCK
Name: Lara Grosjean and Heather Robinson Title: Majority Owner and General Manager (respectively), CityROCK Location: Colorado Springs, CO

CBJ: CityRock was kind of one of the trend setters for having a small bar in its lobby—and I’ve read online that that bar was what initially brought Heather to be employed at the gym. I’m curious to hear how a bar uniquely impacts the dynamic of a gym.

GROSJEAN: The bar/meeting house was my husband Joe’s idea. The gym is in an old movie theater, and we had a large area up front that was the concession stand. In the first few years we were open, we used it for different things, including CrossFit for a while. From the early days of our first gym in Monument [Colorado], we had always served snacks and coffee from our front desk. Joe thought a pub in the front would keep climbers in the building and make it a more pleasant experience to come to CityROCK. One day, Joe and Steve Hitchcock, leader of a local nonprofit called UpaDowna, started chatting. Steve offered to partner with us to open a pub. The original vision was that we would split the profits with UpaDowna if they helped staff it and get it going. It quickly became apparent that with discounts to our members and the low profit margin of a restaurant, there really wouldn’t be any profits to split. We also realized that running a restaurant was more work than any of us could take on given our skill sets. That’s when Heather came into the picture. ROBINSON: I think the coolest part of having The Ute & Yeti in the gym lobby is the sense of community it encourages. It creates an amazing vibe as you enter the gym. After our guests finish climbing, they have a destination to rest their sore pads on an ice cold beer. It offers our community a place to gather and take part in events. Whether it’s movies, trivia, slideshow presentations, they can sit comfortably and enjoy a meal or a drink while doing so. The restaurant is not open during the day, so we use the dining room as a community work space, complete with complimentary coffee during those hours. Many of our members come in early for climbing, cardio or yoga, and stay for hours afterwards working on their computers. We have also made the restaurant very family friendly, which works with our youth programs. It’s really warming to be able to offer a space that can accommodate so much for the people that frequent our gym.
A look inside CityROCK's eatery, The Ute & Yeti.
A look inside CityROCK’s eatery, The Ute & Yeti.

CBJ: What are some keys to successfully combining a climbing gym with a bar?

ROBINSON: We have structured our menu at the Ute to be climber-friendly: made to order, always fresh, almost all made in house (we don’t bake bread or make mayonnaise), keto, gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, and if we don’t have what you need—you name it and we’ll modify it. Climbers can be very specific in what they eat, so we have catered to their needs from the beginning. At CityROCK, kid-friendly and affordable items are a must, and we need to be able to get the plates out fairly quickly. Beer is definitely well received. The Ute & Yeti has a rotating beer list that boasts anywhere from 75-90 beers at a time, all craft and always changing. We host 16 taps, two of which pour hyper-local Springs Culture Kombucha, and the other 14 are crafts of all styles. Every tap changes each time we blow a keg. We have one of the best beer lists on the Front Range. I think the most important key to being successful in conjunction with the gym is the friendly service and always being happy to see our members. They really are the reason The Ute has been so successful. We have an awesome clientele.
CWA Summit Pre-Conferences
 

CBJ: CityRock went through a massive remodel several years ago, and you were both involved with that. What sort of remodeling was done, and any lessons learned from that by each of you?

GROSJEAN: The remodel actually began in the spring of 2018 and is just wrapping up now. Joe and I were in the middle of a three-year sailing trip with our children when we heard there might be another gym coming to Colorado Springs. We decided we needed to take a break from sailing to make sure that we had done everything we could to position CityROCK to continue to serve the climbers of southern Colorado. We have made continual improvements to CityROCK over the years but, in order to add everything we wanted to build this time, we had to make some massive changes. Joe has a background in mechanical engineering and, in the past, has done much of the building himself but this time we decided to bring in an architect and hire contractors because of the scope of the work we were doing. Heather bore the brunt of managing the project since we left a few months into it to resume our sailing trip, so I’m sure she has many comments about inheriting someone else’s vision. There’s definitely something to be said for doing additional planning and we certainly could have done more of that. I know some of the work Joe and the team did early on was torn out and redone, which is unfortunate. However, I also know people who have spent years and years making plans to build and they end up with many of the same issues that seem to come up any time you remodel or build. I think you have to make a plan with what you know and be prepared to revise and address issues as they arise. It also helps to have a detail-oriented person like Heather overseeing the project. Were we to do it again, I would try to find the right upper-level person on the staff (that wasn’t the GM) to liaise with the contractors and manage the project to take some of the burden off Heather. ROBINSON: Yes, we are actually finishing up the remodel now. We changed around 30 percent of the rope walls, 90 percent of the bouldering walls, replaced the rope climbing floor, added a training room, a cardio and fitness room, a third level yoga studio that looks out over the entire gym, amphitheater seating on the lower rope level, expanded the Ute kitchen and updated the dining room, remodeled the front desk and orientation area, added a private party room for the gym and restaurant to use, installed an HVAC system complete with Airus fans, updated the electrical/Ethernet/security systems, sprinkled the entire building, added staff offices and a break room, and built a garage for our new boom lift. The last leg will be to add a sunroom-style patio to the front of the building to address additional seating needs for the Ute dining room. This project was massive! It was done in steps and we remained open for all but a minimal eight days of closure, which were broken up over the 16 months of the bulk of the remodel. While we tried to minimize the impact on the members as much as humanly possible, it was not a small impact and the community around this gym blew my mind with their patience. I’m not saying we didn’t upset people with the construction, but as a whole the members of CityROCK were so forgiving and supportive of this project. The biggest lesson I learned: our members really love us and will put up with a whole mess of shenanigans for a shiny, new climbing facility! To be serious, the construction crew and gym staff did a phenomenal job with this project. Our staff built all of the climbing walls, rope floor and had a huge hand in much of the cosmetic changes to the facility.
Gym patrons climb the remodeled walls of CityROCK.
Gym patrons climb the remodeled walls of CityROCK.

CBJ: I saw that CityROCK has an adaptive climbing team. How did that come about?

GROSJEAN: In the first few years that we were open downtown, we did a team building for the Olympic Training Center (OTC) to encourage athletes to meet and build relationships with those outside their sport. One of the events was for all members of a team to get up “The Wall,” a typical team-building event. Joe was watching along with Peter Haberl, a sports psychologist at the OTC. Most of the participants were world-caliber athletes in their sports and had no difficulty scaling the wall. However, one of the team members was a Paralympic swimmer who was born without full limbs. As the event progressed, almost all of the athletes had scaled the wall, not thinking about physical limitations, since they had very few. But the Paralympic swimmer did not have the capacity to climb the bouldering wall without help and was left on his own at the bottom. When the other athletes noticed this from the top of the wall, they were mortified. Joe reminded the Paralympian that, according to the rules of the event, he could make use of certain tools. He looked around for a moment, then found a nearby rope, swung it over to where his teammates could reach it and tied it around his waist, allowing them to assist him in climbing the wall. After witnessing this moment, Joe was inspired to make climbing accessible to anyone who came into our gym. The seed for the adaptive climbing team was planted on that day and it has evolved into one of the most loved programs in our gym. It is successful because of the dedication of the team leader and the volunteers who work one-on-one with the climbers.
Vertical Solutions
 

CBJ: I often ask people to describe what their community is like. I see on the CityROCK website there is an entire section devoted to “Community Support & Outreach.” So, what makes CityROCK’s community unique—and what does the gym add to it?

GROSJEAN: Climbing isn’t just a sport or a hobby—it’s one of our innate abilities as humans. That means that those of us lucky enough to work at a climbing gym are helping people do what they’re born to do. But climbing is just one part of who they are. They are also parents, students, artists, musicians, friends, cyclists, runners, pet-owners, actors, singers, and community activists. All of the wonderful people that come into our gym come to us with their own sets of interests, beliefs, opinions, strengths and weaknesses. As much as we can, we like to support their interests in and outside of our building. There are so many interesting people and organizations in the Colorado Springs area, trying to make life more fulfilling for its residents. We believe it makes sense to work with those like-minded organizations to multiply our ability to serve our patrons. So we have a staff member whose role is to do community outreach and try to build partnerships that benefit all involved. From our earliest days in Monument when we had to fight for every customer, we learned that people came back not because they liked us or because our routes were the best or because our gym was the cleanest (although those were important factors) and it certainly wasn’t because it was the most comfortable place to climb—it was freezing.  They came back because they met other like-minded people at our gym. They stayed through the cold and the noise because their friends were there too. We’ve tried to remember that and we do everything we can to make CityROCK a place where you will find a friend. ROBINSON: Our community is our story. Our entire business is based around our community. Without it, we wouldn’t still be here. We donate 100 percent of our initiation fees to non-profit organizations every year, many of which we let our members choose. CityROCK has celebrated its 10-year anniversary, and we celebrated our community for that occasion. We are a gym of all types of people and we invite all types of people to be here. I think our community is best summed with the word ‘inclusive.’
CityROCK's Heather Robinson with her daughter.
CityROCK’s Heather Robinson with her daughter.

Grosjean suggested discussing some “challenges of being a woman in the climbing industry” and some “advantages and disadvantages of being a mother while simultaneously running a gym.” CBJ was happy to hear their thoughts on those topics.

GROSJEAN: Joe and I got married and opened our first climbing gym in Monument a month later. I always joke that the gym was our first child. The other three human children came soon after, and are now ages 6, 9, and 13. The biggest advantage to being a mother and having a business is that you can bring your children to work whenever you want. This is also the biggest disadvantage. I remember scoring climbing competitions while changing a newborn baby’s diaper, working on Quickbooks and nursing, pumping milk in a hockey referee’s closet, and frantically searching for my 1.5-year-old daughter—only to find her at the top of the bouldering wall where she was looking for the slide. Like all working moms, I have found it challenging to balance time with my kids and my husband with the energy required by the climbing gym and its staff. There were many, many events that could have been better organized or communications that could have gone better. But, overall, I think we have a better gym because of this struggle. I learned to manage my time more efficiently and prioritize what really had to be done during the time I had. Our staff learned to be more independent. I’ve always emphasized the need for strong children’s programs and the educational component of climbing. My belief is that by creating strong youth programs, we are building future climbers…I feel like there’s always a struggle in climbing gyms between a desire to have kids and families and the desire to have ‘serious’ climbers or more of a singles scene. CityROCK is no exception. Until recently, the vast majority of our staff was childless, and I felt like I was constantly trying to convince them of the importance of dedicating vast amounts of energy and resources to youth programs. In response to strong pressure (ironically from my husband Joe) to justify the youth programs from a financial standpoint, I created a spreadsheet showing that each program could pay its own way in the gym and still generate a nominal profit. This spreadsheet has become a critical part of how we measure the success of our various programs and make decisions on how they evolve. While it’s important that youth programs contribute to the bottom line, I remain convinced that the positive impact that our team of coaches has on the kids is impossible to measure.
Teknik Hand Holds
  ROBINSON: I don’t really look at the challenges I face in this industry specifically as a female or male. I definitely envy the upper body strength of some men when I am being shut down on some of our overhung climbs, but that’s why I love slab! The position of running a gym is definitely dominated by men, but that’s what makes CityROCK even more special. As a woman, I feel like there is a sense of family that may or may not be present at other facilities. My staff is an extension of my family; I love them all dearly. We are one unit and are only as strong as our weakest, therefore we function together and are consistently involved and aiding one another. While my staff’s personal lives are their own, I do everything in my power to be a support for them when they need it. I think that level of relationship is rare in business these days. It’s part of our local, small business feel. I am great because of those amazing employees who work with me. My biggest disadvantage would be time management, but that’s not specific to this business. I am a single mother, so it’s really hard to juggle the schedule of day time admin duties and staff facilitation, the evening events we host (and we are always hosting something), member interaction (evening is our peak time), homework, after school activities, down-time, house work, and quality time with my daughter. The woes of a working mom! All and all, I think being a mother really helps me to be a better boss, hands down.

Got a cool story? Tell us!

Do you know somebody who works in the climbing industry and would be good to profile in a Behind the Desk segment? (Or, do you work in the industry and have a personal background that you think others would enjoy learning about?) If so, please contact us and tell us about it!

How to Start a Climbing Gym Part 2: Business Planning with Vertical Solutions

Starting a Climbing Gym: Latitude Climbing & Fitness entrance
The entrance to Latitude Climbing & Fitness, a climbing gym and business in Norfolk, Virginia. All images courtesy of Vertical Solutions
Okay, so you had your brain blast and are set on the idea of this whole climbing gym thing. But, what’s next? Well, at the end of the day, a climbing gym is a business. Running any business is difficult, time-consuming work. While forming one can actually be a lot easier than people imagine, there are many moving parts during the initial start-up phase that some fail to address. So, grab your pen and paper because it’s time to plan. Just go slowly so you don’t miss a step. The more prepared you are, the more professional you will appear to lenders and others who need to be on board with your idea.

Business Planning

Business success begins with the right team, which could include a group of partners with varied skill sets. One skill set you will need is solid legal and tax advice from professionals in your jurisdiction, for instance, to help protect your investment. Some thoughts you should discuss with your partners are:
  • What is each partner investing (sweat, cash or other) and what does each expect in return?
  • What will each partner’s scope of responsibility be?
  • How will high-level decisions be made? Will you have a general manager or board of directors?
  • If your business fails, how will assets be liquidated and distributed to partners, if any are available?
  • If you’re successful, will partners have an automatic right to participate in, or otherwise own, new gyms?
Starting a Climbing Gym: Climber at Latitude Climbing & Fitness
A climber working through one of the steep problems at Latitude.
Overall, you want everyone involved to be on the same page. Answering these questions before taking any major steps will help keep you on track when obstacles arise (because they inevitably will). More formally, you will want to agree on and have your lawyer draft the documents that provide the necessary structure on how your business will handle things. These could include plans for what happens with your profits and losses; who gets to vote on important decisions; who is assigned to manage the business; and what to do if someone passes away or wants to leave the company. Quality legal counsel is your best bet on forming a business with the proper fundamental documents for your particular business needs. In addition, you’ll also want to define your target customers. Sure, the answer is ‘climbers.’ But do you know how many climbers are in your area? What they enjoy doing when not pulling plastic? Which age group is most prevalent in your market? What is their average income? You will need to plan around these questions, among hundreds of others.
Starting a Climbing Gym: Customers at Latitude Climbing & Fitness
Just some of the customers who come to Latitude for the climbing.

Case Study: Latitude Climbing and Fitness

Virginia’s Latitude Climbing and Fitness is a great example of proper planning and execution. Each of the gym’s three owners utilized their various backgrounds when forming the business: Matt Beck devoted his life to the Navy (and still does); Marisa Beck has a master’s in organizational management and experience as a nurse; and Jason McKenzie has vast accounting, financial and legal experience. After moving from San Diego to Norfolk, the Becks noticed their new local market was primed for a climbing gym. The closest outdoor crag for Norfolk’s core climbing community is a six-hour drive from town and, because the region’s geography favors water over rock, many residents had never dipped their hands into a chalk bag.

A Clear Mission

A big part of Latitude’s success is attributed to its clear mission from the get-go: to build climbers. Each owner could think back on this purpose when making important decisions. Take gym design, for example. Because many members and guests were new to the climbing scene, Jason and the Becks understood the importance of creating a clean, thoughtfully designed space. They chose a design which ensured new climbers would leave with a desire to come back and hone their skills. They made key choices based on a shared vision.
Starting a Climbing Gym: Training area at Latitude Climbing & Fitness
A snapshot of Latitude’s purposefully designed facility, with climbing and fitness offerings side-by-side.
“We built a full-service fitness facility with state-of-the-art equipment and certified fitness instructors to provide an offering to guests that were not ready to commit to climbing as their primary fitness activity,” Matt said. “We made purposeful decisions to ensure our layout is convenient for our members so they can utilize climbing and traditional fitness equipment during hybrid workouts.”

The Right Team

Additionally, the trio divided each partner’s scope of responsibility with full trust: Jason leveraged 15 years of advising clients’ businesses to manage financial and legal aspects; Marisa leaned on her experience in management by building the people-first culture of Latitude; and Matt deployed his problem-solving expertise to find solutions that help drive the gym’s positive operation results. “An important aspect to our success has been that we each bring different skills to the table,” Jason said. “The division of responsibilities allowed us to make decisions efficiently.” The owners fully trusted each other and stuck to their clear mission. As a result, Latitude became one of the fastest gyms to ever open in the United States. Matt, Jason and Marisa opened the doors in just six and a half months!
Starting a Climbing Gym: Latitude Climbing & Fitness
The finished product after all the planning: a welcoming climbing space in Norfolk.
It’s clear their market research, programming and operational procedures have paid off, because the owners recently broke ground on their second location in Virginia Beach. For Jason and the Becks, the sky is the limit.

What’s Your Plan?

There will be numerous moments throughout your entrepreneurial journey when you’ll want to throw in the towel. The key is to believe in what you’re doing and to keep one foot in front of the other – the payoff is always worth your hard work and dedication. Though there are many unknowns, determining the nitty-gritty aspects of your project will stack the deck in your favor when roadblocks and subsequent stress occur. Hopefully you feel more inspired and motivated than inundated with tasks to tick off. But if you feel overwhelmed or confused, fear not! We’re here to guide you and provide a detailed map through any step of the process. Be sure to stick around for April’s installment of this series in which we’ll review the financial aspect of your project. And don’t forget: you can drop us a line anytime if questions arise. We’d love to help. .
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

“Small but Mighty” Bouldering Gym Opening in Pennsylvania

The homegrown bouldering room of Rock Bottom Climbing. All photos provided by Rock Bottom Climbing

Rock Bottom Climbing Hanover, Pennsylvania

Specs: The facility spans 3,000-square-feet in total. A bouldering room includes a 20-degree wall, an arête, a cave/overhang, and a traverse wall that is specifically for beginners. A separate section includes campus boards, training rings, and a slackline. Walls: “For the walls themselves, we had various different people assisting in construction,” owner Jessica Storm told CBJ. “Instead of contracting out the usual company, I had quite an advantage to have a mother who is a retired architect. She was extremely helpful throughout the design process.” Flooring: Dollamur Website: rockbottomclimbing.com
Elevate Climbing Walls
 
A mural at Rock Bottom Bouldering, painted by owner Jessica Storm’s 10-year-old daughter.
In Their Words: “I decided a few years ago that this is exactly what our small town needs. Any climbing (outdoors or indoors) is at least an hour’s drive in each direction. It was frustrating to spend my long commute to work each week in the car and then turn around to head to the gym only to be a weekend warrior. It took me a few years of strategic planning and saving to be able to finally take the plunge…Being that Hanover was probably the best location, I knew it would take me some time to find an appropriate building that would accommodate our needs. The search took roughly four months where I finally landed on this location. Although it was smaller than planned, it ended up working out wonderfully and not to mention, a landlord that understood and supported my vision.” —Jessica Storm, Owner

USA Climbing Approves Competition Changes

USA Climbing Approves Competition Changes
American athlete Ethan Freudenheim bouldering at the IFSC Youth World Championships in Moscow in 2018. Photo by Joe Robinson
By Taylor Reed Competition climbing in the United States will change – and soon. On February 19, USA Climbing’s board of directors approved a large set of recommendations submitted by the organization’s Competition Task Force. These changes range from large to small and impact competition rules, season structures, competitive pathways and qualification standards. They will certainly affect climbing and training structures around the country. USA Climbing will begin implementing the changes in the fall of 2020.

Changes for Youth

The board of directors approved large structural changes to the youth division. This division will now split into two competition tracks: a qualifying series and a recreational series. Young climbers 17 years old and younger who prefer a “fun, low-stress” atmosphere can now opt to compete in the latter. In the qualifying series, climbers 11 years old and younger (Youth D) will no longer compete at the national championships. Instead, Youth D climbers competing at the regional championships will now qualify for a “climbing festival.”  The festival will consist of “skills-focused competitions and workshops for athletes, coaches, and parents.” The structure of the competition season for young climbers will also change. The youth bouldering season will start later and overlap with the youth sport season in January and February. Additionally, the entirety of the youth speed season will overlap with the youth bouldering and sport seasons.
CWA Summit Pre-Conferences
 

Changes for Adults

The approved recommendations of the Competition Task Force include changes for adult competitors as well. The competition climbing season for adults will now consist of an expanded national cup series, in addition to the national championships and team selection event of past years. A recreational series may also be created for adult climbers in 2021. In the past, the adult bouldering season typically took place apart from the adult sport and speed seasons, with its own national championship. Now, single events in the adult and youth divisions can involve all three disciplines, including adult national cup events. However, competitors are not required to compete in all three disciplines. Other recommendations in the final report are less precise but suggest more changes are on the way. An increase in standards for qualifying events will have implications for routesetters, for instance. In addition, recommendations related to competition rules leave room for significant modifications, as USA Climbing seeks to align itself more closely with international competition rules. Finally, collegiate competitors can look forward to USA Climbing’s pursuit of climbing becoming a recognized NCAA sport. If you are connected to competition climbing in the United States, the full 8-page document is worth a read. It also outlines USA Climbing’s reasoning and the benefits they believe will come out of these changes. It is unclear what will happen when, but the breadth and scope go beyond simple summary. The document outlining the approved recommendations can be found here.

Ask a Lawyer: Avoiding Risks with Hourly Pay and Overtime

Ask a Lawyer is a recurring column where attorney Jason Pill answers questions from people who work in the climbing industry. Got a legal question that you’d like him to tackle about your gym, your employees, or anything else in the wide world of climbing?  Submit your legal question here.

QUESTION: “Most of the people on staff at my gym are hourly employees, so what do I need to know about overtime pay…and do I need to keep any records?”

PILL: While paying your employees for all hours worked seems like a straightforward concept, wage and hour lawsuits are some of the most frequently filed lawsuits across the country and many employers—including Fortune 100 companies—struggle with wage and hour compliance. That said, there are a few baseline concepts that every gym should know when it comes to paying hourly employees.

There Are National Standards

As a starting point, the Fair Labor Standards Act (“FLSA”) is the federal law that establishes a minimum wage, premium pay for overtime hours of non-supervisory employees, and protections for children who work. The FLSA applies in all states and to virtually every climbing gym. In addition to the FLSA, state pay laws also apply to employee pay. While most state laws parallel the FLSA with little distinction, some states provide much greater employee benefits and result in increased obligations upon the employer. California is perhaps the most notable example of a state that offers far greater employee benefits than the FLSA requires, and many other states require a minimum wage higher than the federal minimum of $7.25 (here’s an interactive map from the DOL tracking state minimum wage). Put simply, the FLSA is the floor and states can go up from there.
OnSite
  At its core, the FLSA requires employers to pay hourly employees a minimum wage for all hours worked plus overtime pay for hours worked in excess of 40 in a work week of at least one and one-half times their regular rates of pay (e.g., an employee who earns $10/hour and works 50 hours one week is entitled to receive 40 hours at $10/hour and 10 hours at $15/hour). Part of this analysis is the threshold issue of determining whether an employee is actually working or otherwise engaging in compensable time under the FLSA. For example, time spent commuting to work is not compensable. However, if an employee starts the day at one gym and then is directed to finish his or her shift at another gym, this time spent driving between gyms is compensable under the “all in a day’s work” concept.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Problems arise when an employer fails to recognize and count certain hours worked as compensable hours. For instance, an employee who remains at the front desk while eating lunch and regularly meets with customers is working, even though the employer may consider this the employee’s “lunch break.” This time must be counted and paid as compensable hours worked because the employee has not been completely relieved of duty and is providing a benefit to the employer—i.e., greeting customers. Likewise, a gym must pay an employee even if the time spent working was not authorized (e.g., unapproved overtime). The gym can discipline the employee for not following the gym’s time-keeping policies, but still must pay the employee for the time spent working.
Thrill Seeker Holds
  Along those lines, an employer also must pay its employees for all time that the employer “suffers or permits” employees to work. This is a common issue in many lawsuits and means that if an employer (e.g., a gym manager) actually knew or should have known that an employee has performed work for the employer, the employee must be compensated for all such work. If an employer knows or has reason to believe that the work is being performed, the employer must count the time as hours worked. Like it or not, the law was designed to protect employees and places much of the burden of compliance on the employer.

A Routesetter Scenario

Consider the following hypothetical example: Your gym pays one of its routesetters an hourly rate and has a policy banning off-the-clock work (as an aside, every gym should have this policy). The routesetter is scheduled to work until 5:00pm. At 5:00pm, the manager leaves for the day and notices that the routesetter still has two routes to complete. When the manager returns the next morning, the manager sees that the routesetter completed the two remaining routes last night but clocked out at 5:00pm in the gym’s timekeeping system. What are the gym’s payment obligations to the routesetter? If your response is “none,” then you’re inviting a lawsuit. The gym has constructive knowledge of the routesetter working off the clock (through the manager). The gym now must talk with the routesetter to determine how late the routesetter stayed to complete the routes, and pay the routesetter accordingly. However, the gym is not without recourse and can discipline the routesetter for working off-the-clock and/or working unapproved overtime.
EP Climbing
 

Keep Good Records

In addition to establishing a minimum wage and basic overtime requirements, an often-overlooked facet of the FLSA is the record-keeping requirements it imposes upon employers—including climbing gyms—to keep certain records tracking each employee’s hours worked and wages earned. The FLSA does not mandate a particular form for the records, but does require that the records include certain identifying information about the employee and data about the hours worked and the wages earned. And, not surprisingly, the law requires this information to be accurate, in the event an employer’s practices are ever subject to review by the United States Department of Labor (DOL) or a court. The complete list of required time and pay data can be found on the DOL’s website. Climbing gyms, like all employers, must keep these records for at least three years. Some states may require that these records be kept for even longer periods of time due to lengthier statute of limitations for employees to bring wage-based claims. If you’re outsourcing your payroll to a vendor, they should be observing these record-keeping requirements, but you should confirm. The FLSA and various state laws provide climbing gyms with flexibility in how they establish and carry out their payroll practices, but they contain many traps for the unwary. Climbing gyms must be mindful of the basic payroll policies and ensure whatever policies they implement are consistent with prevailing laws and are not exposing climbing gyms to unnecessary legal risks. So, when examining existing policies or implementing new policies, it is often helpful to consult an attorney to make sure everything is legally compliant. This small step may save a climbing gym the significant time and expense of having to later litigate the issue if the gym’s practices are challenged by the DOL or a disgruntled—and perhaps underpaid—employee.
Note: This recurring column offers general advice and is not intended to be used as direct legal counsel. Gym owners should consult a lawyer for their facility’s specific legal matters. Pill can be contacted directly here.

Mesa Rim is Heading to Texas

Mesa Rim Austin concept art. Image provided by Mesa Rim

Mesa Rim Austin Austin, Texas

Specs: 50,000-square-foot facility will include rope climbing (with 55-foot walls) and bouldering, along with a yoga studio, a cardio and weight training area, a sauna, locker rooms, and a community space all intended to “cater to the city’s existing community of climbers as well as the area’s large population of fitness-minded individuals.”
Trango Holds Pardners
  Walls: Entre-Prises CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: mesarim.com/austin Instagram: @mesarimaustin In Their Words: “Climbing is much more than a sport; it’s a lifestyle. Our climbing gyms serve as a community hub that facilitates an untold amount of positive and healthy human connection. Climbing and yoga can be transformative experiences — physically, mentally, and socially. We have been looking at Austin for years as a perfect match for a Mesa Rim climbing facility and we are thrilled to have developed a strong partnership with a local developer to bring this vision to life in service to the Austin community.” —Ian McIntosh, President and CEO, Mesa Rim Climbing Centers

High Drama Book Review: Climbing Gyms Grew Alongside the Sport

Image: Chicago Review Press / Triumph Books
[Branded Content] John Burgman’s new book High Drama is a meticulously researched, lovingly written account of how climbing got into the Olympics. As climbers get ready to vie for gold, the audience is right to wonder, “Where did this crazy sport come from?” Anyone can conceptually understand rock climbing, but these competitions on fake walls are materially different than those carefree images from Moab or Yosemite. For me, the best part of reading High Drama was learning the grueling origin of competition climbing on artificial walls in North America: the cinematographic breakthroughs of Bob Carmichael; the logistical travails of Jeff Lowe’s first big comps; and the incredible efforts so many people put into a single event. There were no gyms at that time, so organizers had to build the walls from scratch, and they weren’t into bouldering yet, so those walls were tall! Lowe’s vision was decades ahead of its time, but as John observes, it all came full circle. I am glad Jeff lived to see major climbing competitions thrive, possibly into the kind he had envisioned back when some folks still climbed in swami belts instead of harnesses. As a climber since the 90s, I must admit my bias. I experienced an earlier era of comp climbing. Back then it was a smaller endeavor, driven by passionate people with little history and experience to stand on. That’s one of the reasons I value this book. In those days, you could not find this information. The world wide web hadn’t boomed yet and word traveled slow, if at all. In reading John’s book, I am amazed to learn so many simultaneous efforts took place across a splintered landscape. The climbing community in America was truly local and grassroots at that time. If an event didn’t appear in Climbing or Rock & Ice, it practically didn’t happen.
OnSite
  John has reached into that past and brought readers a colorful story of the people, places, and events that pushed climbing forward. I’m especially glad he included major developments and innovations from the business side of indoor climbing. Routesetting, holds, volumes, climbing wall design – all these elements grew and developed alongside the sport. Those stories of the industry are forever intertwined with the stories of the athletes that performed using those products, and the audiences that demanded them. Excited to watch climbing at the Olympics? Reading this book will add depth to that experience. Couldn’t care less about the Olympics, but been climbing on plastic for years and curious where it all came from? You’ll have a great time and learn a lot from this book. High Drama is a labor of love, and it took the author years to research and write. For that I would like to thank him, on behalf of our small, dedicated industry. John took the time to learn and tell our story, and we are grateful for it. To stock this book in your gym’s retail shop contact orders@ipgbook.com or call (800) 888-4741. You can buy individual copies of High Drama here. Use code CBJ30 to get 30% off, and CBJ is donating the kickback.

—Scott Rennak, Publisher of Climbing Business Journal

Routesetting Should Be Fun—It’s Not Brain Surgery: Behind the Wrench with Alison Krayer

Behind the Wrench…is an ongoing series that interviews the “rock stars” of the climbing industry: the routesetters at the gyms. This time CBJ hits the road and heads to the East Coast to discuss slabs, safety zones, setter wellness and how to create the best darn bat hang your local gym has ever seen.
Behind the Wrench with Alison Krayer - Bat Hang
Earth Treks Hampden’s Routesetter & Shift Supervisor, Alison Krayer, enjoying her favorite move to set. All images provided by Alison Krayer
Name: Alison Krayer Home Gym: Earth Treks Hampden Location: Baltimore, Maryland CBJ: Are you from the Baltimore area originally, and how did you get into routesetting at Earth Treks as a career? KRAYER: I am not from the Baltimore area originally. I moved to Baltimore as a step forward in my career when Earth Treks announced they were building their first bouldering-only gym and were looking for routesetters. I flew down from Maine, where I was living and setting at the time, and had a two-day, almost- 24-hour interview where I set both boulders and rope routes. Back in 2013, I started setting when I worked as the Assistant Director for Earth Treks in Rockville, Maryland. With my background in Art and Design and my previous job as a bicycle builder/mechanic, routesetting seemed like the perfect blend of all my skill sets and interests. The path to setting as a career back then was not a clear one. I did a lot of routesetting for free and traveled around to wherever I could set. I purchased all my own tools and signed myself up for the USAC Level 1 routesetting clinic, which was the only real setting instruction at the time. Eventually, I landed at EVO Rock and Fitness in Portland, Maine. There I had the freedom to really explore routesetting as a career and the opportunity to set for a variety of comps, both youth and citizens comps.
Trango Holds Pardners
  CBJ: What are some things that make routesetting at Earth Treks Hampden unique? KRAYER: There is a lot of slab terrain, which proves to be a challenge for routesetting at times, and there is a member base of fairly new climbers. I’m also a coach and I focus a lot on instruction while I am setting. I will focus on a technique for the climber to work on and learn at a specific grade to aid in their progress as not only a strong climber, but a smart one. Behind the Wrench with Alison Krayer - Drilling CBJ: How has setting—either the actual craft, or the idea of being a routesetter as a job—changed since you first started setting? KRAYER: It has changed in so many ways, from the variety and complexity of hold selection to actual styles of setting. Climbing gyms used to be places where climbers trained for climbing outside—and the routesetting reflected that. With the current rate of growth within gym climbing alone and with climbing now being an Olympic sport, the possibilities in styles of routesetting are endless. That growth has also brought with it a real need for experienced, talented route setters and it has been great to see all the new career opportunities for us. When I first started setting, I didn’t know a single other woman who routeset. Now, I know and have personally set with close to 30 different women setters. This is a huge change, and personally the most exciting one for me. I am so grateful that today there is a much clearer path for women who want to get into routesetting as a career. Women have proven to be a valuable asset to any setting team. We still have a long way to go, but the change I have seen and am so grateful to be a part of is a step in the right direction.
  CBJ: We’ve had conversations at CBJ about how routesetters are basically the keys to the industry (the “rockstars”). But I know a lot of gym patrons just climb and don’t think much about the hard work that goes on “behind the scenes” to make the routes. Is there anything the whole industry or even just an individual gym could do to make sure routesetters get the full credit and recognition they deserve? KRAYER: At some gyms I have seen a “meet your routesetter” wall where there are photographs of the routesetters and a short, usually comical, bio. I think this is a great way to provide setter recognition. When I was at EVO, we made weekly “boulder of the week” videos featuring individual routesetters, which I really enjoyed making and miss. They provided routesetter recognition as well as a source of member stoke for the new boulders we set. More important than recognition, I think, would be overall care from gyms and the industry at large for routesetter health and wellness. Being a commercial routesetter is an extremely physically demanding job and more affordable and accessible health care like massage therapy and physical therapy would be a great way to show routesetter appreciation. For me personally, my craft suffers when my body is physically beat up and not cooperating. Behind the Wrench with Alison Krayer - Setting CBJ: What’s your typical day like as a setter? KRAYER: My typical day starts with lots of coffee followed by setting up the safety zone for the area we are setting that day. Then we strip all current boulders, wash holds and decide what grades we need set based on the gym’s bell curve. Depending on my level of inspiration I might set a really hard or technically complicated boulder first, or I might knock out one of the easier, trainer-style boulders to warm up. After setting all the boulders, we forerun and make changes, adjustments, and improvements. This process takes hours and has the potential to be the most collaborative part of the setting day, which I enjoy.
Teknik Hand Holds
  CBJ: Speaking of parts of the day that you enjoy, what are the best parts of being a routesetter, and what are the biggest challenges? KRAYER: For me, the best part of being a routesetter is watching climbers grow and have an amazing time on climbs I created. Same thing goes for watching climbers compete on comp climbs I set. I also really enjoy when people talk to me about my climbs, whether they are complimenting, criticizing, or just have specific beta questions. The biggest challenges involve constantly coming up with new and inspired routes, as well as just general fatigue—brain fatigue to be specific. During a day of setting, and more often during a hard week of comp setting, there are so many decisions to make and things to consider. I have fallen/slid down the ladder, smashed my hand between a hold and the wall with my drill, and straight-up split my head open from walking into a ladder at the end of long, exhausting comp weeks. I always end up laughing it off because it is ultimately quite comical despite the pain. Behind the Wrench with Alison Krayer - Rock Climbing CBJ: And what influences your setting? KRAYER: I am inspired in every aspect of my life by the outdoors. This is very true for my inspiration for routesetting. I am definitely also inspired by teaching technique or a specific movement or flow, but I am most inspired by climbing outside or watching other people and animals—I am in awe of the climbing ability of squirrels—climb outside. CBJ: What’s your favorite move to set—and do you have any tips or advice on how best to set the move? KRAYER: My favorite move to set is definitely a double toe hook or bat hang. The best tip I can give is to find some good steep terrain and decent holds, and to physically try the moves until you get the result you want. An important thing to check when setting a forced bat hang is that the climber can’t cheat past your intended beta by campusing the whole thing. This will be your biggest challenge.
CBJ: If you had to narrow routesetting down to three key points, what would those be? KRAYER: First, routesetting should ultimately be a fun job! We are not performing brain surgery, so don’t take yourself too seriously. Enjoy your work and even better, the experience of seeing others enjoy it. Second, find ways to stay inspired. Climb outside, travel to other gyms and get on other routesetters’ climbs, or whatever reminds you of why you love setting and what drew you to it in the first place. Third, push yourself outside of your climbing and routesetting comfort zones. Every opportunity is a chance to learn and grow, and something that feels unfamiliar or uncomfortable just means you’re having a learning experience. The more you challenge yourself, the more you’ll have to bring to your routes and to the communities and people who climb them.

Got a cool story? Tell us!

Do you know a routesetter in the climbing industry who would be good to profile in a Behind the Wrench segment? (Or, are you a routesetter and have a personal background that you think others would enjoy learning about?) If so, please contact us and tell us about it!

Popular East Coast Gym Franchise Heads West

Gravity Vault Heads West with this Marin County Gym
Preview of Gravity Vault’s first West Coast location, coming to Marin County, California. All images provided by Gravity Vault

Gravity Vault Marin County, California

Specs: 20,000-square-foot gym will be the first West Coast location for Gravity Vault, which has facilities in New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. The new California location will include all types of roped climbing (top rope, lead, speed) as well as bouldering. A weightlifting and general fitness area will also be part of the layout, as will locker rooms, showers, work spaces, adjustable training boards, and a gear retail area. The gym will offer Yoga and fitness classes as well.
Elevate Climbing Walls
 
Gravity Vault Heads West with Owner Kovalcik and Franchisees Sklar and Platter
Gravity Vault owner Lucas Kovalcik (left) with franchisees Scott Sklar (middle) and Brian Platter (right).
Walls: Rockwerx Flooring: Futurist Website: gravityvault.com In Their Words: “I could not be more excited! After leaving California 15 years ago to start The Gravity Vault in New Jersey, where I was born and raised, bringing the brand to California with great franchise partners…in a phenomenal place like Marin County is amazing.” —Lucas Kovalcik, Owner, Gravity Vault “It’s been over 12 years since Marin County has had a climbing gym. Brian [Platter, franchisee partner] and I are thrilled to be working with our long-time friend Lucas [Kovalcik] and The Gravity Vault team to create a modern, fully featured, state-of-the-art climbing gym for our vibrant and growing community of climbers in the county.” —Scott Sklar, franchisee partner