Opinion: Why I Still Believe In Rock Gym Pro
By Scott Rennak
As many climbing facility operators now know, Rock Gym Pro (RGP) has gone through some big leadership changes lately. Many users of the ubiquitous software have expressed worry both privately and publicly, to the point where a new Facebook user forum was even setup to ensure continued dialog about the platform.
During this pandemic, this is not a time any manager wants to have concerns about the software their business depends on. We have enough challenges right now simply reopening with new operational guidelines. And so I wanted to weigh in based on my observations of the unfolding events, as well as my experiences as an RGP user for many years as a manager at The Spot in Boulder. I also spent over 90 minutes during two phone calls speaking with Maria Trysla, RGP’s new Business Leader, about what is going on.
The Software Is Still Great (and Improving)
Nothing about the actual software has changed for the worse. In fact, during the pandemic the team at RGP has released much-needed new features including a real-time occupancy counter that can display on user’s websites, check-out features that enable contact tracing, and bulk freeze function that was very helpful when the closures began. Perhaps more importantly, the team at RGP is focused on the stability and reliability of the software platform. They are embracing the cloud as an ongoing effort and are building a customer-driven roadmap for new functionality. As a key tool to run your business, RGP has only gotten better during this crisis.Their Support Team Is Still There (and Learning)
Many of those RGP staffers you have come to love for their answers and insights, they have not left the business. When you contact support, you will still hear back from Jon, Kevin or Katie, while developers Dave, James and Dan are still on top of it. Admittedly we are all nostalgic for the days when replies to the Facebook posts were posted within minutes. However, maybe we were spoiled by that, and yes now RGP is becoming a bit more traditional software company with a bit more traditional support. Their team also has been inundated with new requests for support as we all reopen our gyms and use their software in new ways, needing extra help. When you consider the reality of COVID-19, any short delays in support are pretty understandable, practically every business out there has been affected by the pandemic and is experiencing some sort of delayed or interrupted service.They Have Shared Our Pain
I personally believe RGP is one of the great unsung industry heroes of this crisis. Quietly, they have temporarily allowed their customers to opt-out of service fees and contracts. Together this has amounted to over $500,000 in lost revenue, an amount of financial support for climbing gyms that may be unequaled in our industry. Additionally, all of their staff have taken pay cuts. Yet in the face of all that, they are working diligently to support our reopening businesses, and also investing in and expanding the tools we need to operate in this new world.They Have a Strong Backbone
Being part of the Togetherwork family of businesses, RGP has access to technical know-how and private equity that will ensure they thrive into the future. Many users were surprised to hear of their “new” ownership, but in fact the acquisition took place two years ago, and we all just didn’t know it yet. They could have done a better job of telling their own story through the leadership transition, but the fact remains that Togetherwork has been underpinning RGP for quite some time now. And all along they have been investing heavily in RGP Cloud, an essential outlay of cash that will make sure this tool we all depend on will weather the changing times far into the future. Together these reasons not only alleviate any of my concerns, but in fact inspire me to be hopeful about the future at RGP.Homewall of the Week 9 – Convertible Garage Woodie
This week’s CBJ Homewall of the Week is a sweet many-angled woodie that admittedly needs more holds. Owner Peter Czoschke made sure the car still fit in the garage for winters at his home in Bloomington, MN. See past homewalls here.
When did you build your wall?
April-May this year (it’s a Covid baby). I never considered a home wall as we have a top-notch gym down the road. Then the coronavirus shutdown happened and a friend offered to loan me a few of his holds. Next thing I knew I was drawing up plans to plaster half my garage in plywood.How long did it take you to build?
The basic structure was 1-2 weeks, full build was about a month. We still need to paint it, though.Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build?
About $700. Don’t underestimate the cost of fasteners. You go through a lot of screws and t-nuts! I estimate I spent $200 just on hardware, the rest being wood. The Metolius doc says to estimate about 2x the cost of the plywood, but I think 3x is probably closer.Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
I just wanted it to be fun. It’s also a training tool (2 climber kids in the family), but I mostly wanted it to be fun with features to set a wide variety of moves. I wanted a roof area because I have crap endurance on roofs. It also had to fit in the garage while allowing cars to still park in there (parking outside in MN winters is no bueno).What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Padding. Climbing over a concrete slab (garage floor) is sketchyyy. Real padding is ridiculously expensive if you have to cover any substantial area. Plus, I want to be able to stow the padding when the cars are parked in the garage. I ended up with a mish-mash of old mattresses (memory foam works way better than spring coils) and bouldering pads. A spotter is needed to shuffle pads around if you do a long route, but it works. No ER visits yet.What would you do differently?
So far I don’t have any complaints or regrets. It turned out beautifully and has been a lot of fun. We’re expecting our first new batch of holds any day now. We’ve only been climbing on the borrowed holds, and have basically no jugs. Ouch!What is your favorite aspect?
There was a side wall that clearly wasn’t going to work into the overhang but was cleared off. I was going to just slap a couple vertical plywood sheets onto the existing studs, but then at the last minute I decided to frame up a proper wall, mount it at the top with hinges, and make an adjustable slab. It’s actually way more fun than I expected it to be. It is a great addition to the burlier overhung sections. Now the kid crushers can thump away on the overhang and roof sections, while my old bones tiptoe up the slab. The roof area is pretty awesome, too, with a little “shield” for opposing foot holds to swing over to, although we only have one hold that will work on the roof for now.Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Build a model first, either a physical mockup, or even better with a CAD program (Sketchup online is free and not too hard to learn). I found so many hiccups in my design ahead of time that would’ve thrown me for a loop in the construction process had I not built a model. You also can visualize it and tweak the design before you commit to anything. I probably went through 3 or 4 iterations before I started any actual construction. It’s also a lot of fun to drool over before it’s actually. Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize pack like this (varied prizes each week):Protests, Gyms and Tough Conversations: Ideas from Nonprofit Gyms
The Climbing Wall Association (CWA)―which has been hosting community calls for climbing gyms during COVID-19―held a special community call last Thursday on “protests, gyms and tough conversations.” The call involved representatives of the nonprofit climbing gyms Memphis Rox and Nosotros, who shared their experiences and communication around the ongoing recent protests.
Below are 6 points from the call that stood out to us at Climbing Business Journal.
This Conversation Is Not New
Garnet Moore, Director of Operations at CWA, acknowledged in the beginning of the call that this conversation is not new. There is a long history of racism in the U.S. and collective action against it, and the current protests are recent events in that struggle. Some actors in the climbing industry have already been starting these conversations, and a renewed national conversation presents an opportunity to accelerate or amplify previous efforts. “It’s important to recognize―even though this is a particular moment―it’s one in a long, long series of moments where we’ve gone through similar situations in our country,” said Moore. “This isn’t a new thing, this isn’t a new issue, and it’s something that hopefully can be carried forward and we can engender some change, at least in our small corner of the world.”We Will Make Mistakes
Also at the start of the call, Moore pointed out that we are all susceptible to making mistakes. Especially for those of us who are new to these conversations, there is a strong possibility that our early efforts and communication will fall short. Hopefully, the steps we take will be more beneficial than standing still and that we can listen, learn and keep growing. “The goal of this call is not to provide a roadmap or framework or answers about how to handle these tough conversations, but rather to show that we’re all susceptible to making mistakes; that it’s possible to still take action and make a positive contribution while making those mistakes; and that it’s important that as the leaders of our organizations we recognize that we’re not going to make these positive steps forward that we want to take unless we’re willing to take those ourselves, personally and sincerely,” said Moore.Actions Speak Louder Than Words
With many climbing brands and gyms showing support on social media, one of the underlying topics of the call concerned how to convert those statements into actions. Malik Martin, Resident Photographer & Social Media Coordinator at Memphis Rox, discussed some of the ways Memphis Rox is doing that right now. During COVID-19, the nonprofit climbing gym has been handing out free lunches, hygiene kits, hand sanitizer and more in their surrounding neighborhood. Partnerships with local organizations and donations from members have helped make it possible. “Right now, everybody is asking what can we do. If you make those connections, you’ll find that there are people who have resources that can be given out. Essentially, we’re not creating anything, we’re just funneling resources through us,” said Martin. “We wanted to make sure that the people in our community who tended to be hit hardest by COVID were the ones who were getting the most resources.”Expect Some Pushback
Despite the positive work in their wider community, Memphis Rox still received pushback when communicating about the protests. Jon Hawk, Director of Operations at Memphis Rox, said they received negative feedback from people outside their community after posting a statement on Instagram―some from well-known personalities. Speaking out takes courage, and some pushback can be expected. Hawk approached these reactions with positivity during the call. “But we’re not letting that discourage us, we’re just fighting harder now. All we’re saying is, ‘Well, we made it, we got their attention. Cool, let’s keep going,’” said Hawk. “I urge everybody to do the same thing. Speak the truth. Climbing’s about love and caring and mentorship and helping each other and overcoming obstacles. And this is an obstacle, so let’s just climb over it and do it.”Handle Criticism Professionally
Nosotros climbing gym also received some negative feedback after posting on social media. Following the death of George Floyd, Nosotros launched a t-shirt campaign to raise funds for the George Floyd Memorial Fund. The t-shirts included an image of windows at the gym broken during the protests. The post on Instagram received dozens of comments, many positive but also some critical ones. Instead of ignoring the comments, Nosotros founder Peter Stancato approached it as a learning opportunity and addressed them head on in a follow-up post two days later. Nosotros launched a second round of t-shirts which more explicitly conveyed the intended meaning, saying, “Racism is a mountain we need to climb together. #blacklivesmatter”. The feedback this time has been overwhelmingly positive. “For all of you who are listening, you may be in either 1 of 2 situations: either you said something online and you got backlash, or you haven’t said anything at all because maybe the backlash seemed scary…It’s so much more important to take a stance rather than not,” said Stancato. “It is dicey, it’s a sensitive climate. I think it’s helped just addressing the questions head on.”Activate Your Community
Going forward, Stancato plans to involve the Nosotros climbing community in a bigger way. Stancato hopes to host a “Thinker’s Meeting” next Monday, where people can gather outside the gym and brainstorm ideas for what to pursue next. Later will be a “Doer’s Meeting,” to come up with next steps for how to achieve that idea. Every individual gym or brand has different resources, but coming together―and partnering with groups already doing this work for decades―can extend the impact. “We already saw where this gets when it’s just my brainchild. I’m going to make mistakes by myself. It’s a community effort. We all know rock gyms are based on community. So hopefully we’re going to make a community decision on Monday,” said Stancato. “Because we want to put something into practice. We want to do something.” The community call concluded with the participants answering questions from the listeners. To check out their answers to these questions and listen to the full recording, click here.New Training Equipment: CHNR May Wrap Part 2
Two weeks ago we covered climbing holds – the new brands and shapes that launched during May. Here we will explore new releases of training equipment.
// NEW TRAINING EQUIPMENT //
360 Holds
360 Holds has released their new customizable hangboard made from wood using polyurethane holds such as slopers, crimps, edges and jugs. It comes with 9 holds and 7 which are fully customizable can be moved or rotated to any position (all except the jugs). It is available in 16 different colors and distributed by Premium Holds in the US. 360holds.com // premiumholds.comSatellite Climbing
Satellite is releasing the Satellite Mini Board systems board that works with their app. They are also releasing a customizable training board called the Satellite Finger Board. It has crimps at 15 mm, 10 mm and 5 mm as well as pinches, jugs, a central sloper and monos. satelliteclimbing.comPost Holds
Post Holds from Canada has developed an innovative way to train pinches with their new MagPinch training system. This pinch system can be configured magnetically to be anywhere from 1 inch to a 5 inch wide grip. They can be attached to weights or a door frame for many mounting options; a full tutorial is available. This and other products of theirs will be distributed by Hold Emporium. holdemporium.comHardwood Hangboards
Hardwood Hangboards is a new company from Golden, CO that produces a variety of hand-machined boards from the Small Boards, Medium Boards as well as huge custom made hangboards. hardwoodhangboards.comRockstar Volumes
Rockstar is a company known for their volumes, hangboards and their Crash Couch. Recently they have released the Rocket Wall which is a free-standing 30 degree climbing wall which at 7 feet tall x 8 feet wide can fit in most homes, apartments, garages, ect. The Rocket Wall has also been designed so anyone with an impact driver can install it with all the necessary hardware included. They have also released The Pinch Hangblock, which is a versatile and portable piece of wood that has been designed to be used in lifting and one arm hangs as well as two arm hangs with two of them. It features various lengths for pinching (narrow, medium, wide and extra wide) and also is configurable with edges and a jug built into the design. rockstarvolumes.comRustam Climbing
Rustam’s wooden training equipment has been designed by IFSC World Cup winner Rustam Gelmanov. Their latest offering, Duonio, is a hanging two finger suspension apparatus to help train two finger pull ups. This is from the creator of the beast mode mono-pull trainer Monik. rustamclimbing.comBreadhouse Climbing
Breadhouse is a startup that began in Montreal, Canada just a few weeks ago during the COVID-19 Quarantine. The Pretzel is a handmade training tool for the space-constrained climber. Carved from a single block of solid wood, its hexagonal shape contains over 50 different grip options. The Pretzel can be used for a lightweight warmup option at the crag, as a mounted hangboard at home or used to lift weights. The package includes a pair of mirror hexes made out of softwood or hardwood with 2 meters of pre-tied cord for an easy setup. breadhouseclimbing.caDanger Buddies Climbing
Danger Buddies was born out of a collaboration with Adventure Rock (Wisconsin’s premier climbing gym), which developed a complete training program that comes with this hangboard. There is an integrated a phone holder so you can follow along with Adventure Rock’s training videos, and recessed hangers included so you can build counterweights for using the tougher holds, do assisted pull-ups, or even work on rope skills. dangerbuddies.comCOVID-19 Reaches USA Climbing National Team Training Center
[The following is a press release from USA Climbing on June 11, 2020, as COVID-19 reaches the national team training center.]
USA Climbing announced today that an athlete who has had access to the USA Climbing Training Center in Salt Lake City, Utah tested positive for COVID-19 on June 11. The athlete last utilized the Training Center on June 3.
In consultation with the Salt Lake Public Health Department and CDC guidelines, USA Climbing is taking the following steps, out of an abundance of caution, to ensure the safety of athletes, staff, and to prevent any potential spread to the community:
- A group of approximately 19 individuals, currently showing no signs or symptoms, who visited the Training Center during the past week will self-isolate for the next seven days following local health department recommendations.
- The Training Center will be closed for the next seven days. During this time, the facility will be heavily cleaned and all holds will be stripped and cleaned as a preventative measure.
Homewall of the Week 8 – A Legend’s 25-Year-Old Woodie
This week’s CBJ Homewall of the Week is real beauty from Colorado Springs. It was first built in 1995 for climbing legend Kevin Branford, who has coached, routeset, and shaped holds for many years. His latest project is Method Grips, and he’s currently a manager at the brand-new Gripstone Climbing & Fitness. See past homewalls here.
How long did it take you to build?
One of the builders of the iconic Sport Climbing Center (now Springs Climbing Center) built the wall for us in two separate years. The build took about 2 weeks each time because he would come over after his full time construction job to work on it during the evenings.Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build?
At the time, I am guessing the build, with labor and materials, cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $5000.00. We used cabinet grade plywood…even back then it was not cheap.Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
My background in the climbing world is in competition pebble wrestling. I spent about a decade as a professional climber, so the wall design needed to be a serious training tool. I was in school and so a lot of the time it was easier to train at home and alternate that with doing homework.What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
I don’t remember anything being particularly difficult. My friend who built the wall is a custom home remodeling guru, so this wasn’t anything crazy for him.What would you do differently?
The only thing I would do differently is not have any 90° edges/corners.What is your favorite aspect?
My favorite aspects are the 10 1/2 foot ceilings, the 30 foot depth of the garage and the variation in angles. Mike really did a fantastic job utilizing the space.Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Home walls do not have to be massive by any stretch of the imagination. I have trained on woodies that are 6’ wide and 8’ tall with only one angle. Training can be done nearly anywhere in any space. My words of wisdom: holds are generally more expensive than most people expect them to be. My collection has taken more than 25 years to amass. Don’t feel like you have to buy all your holds at once. Shop around, start with a few hold companies, and plan on investing a small amount every couple of months to build up your selection. Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize pack like this (varied prizes each week):The Meaning of Community: Behind the Desk with Memphis Rox
Behind the Desk…is a series that interviews people who are part of the climbing industry—those who run companies, manage staff, create innovative new products, and operate gyms. While being closed for climbing during the Coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic, the nonprofit climbing gym Memphis Rox has kept busy in the Soulsville community. So, CBJ reached out for a double interview with Jon Hawk and Daniel Arnold to learn about getting creative to support the most vulnerable in our wider communities.
Name: Jon Hawk; Daniel Arnold
Title: Director of Operations; Training and Volunteer Coordinator
Gym: Memphis Rox
Location: Memphis, Tennessee
CBJ: Thanks for taking the time to explain your pay-as-you-can business model last year and sit down with us again. Could you walk me through some of the things you have been up to during this period?
Hawk: The gym looks a little different these days. We’re more of a production line, cranking out care packages, lunches and hand sanitizer. We greatly appreciate Armstrong Relocation Memphis, M. Palazola Produce and Sysco Foods for donating boxes to keep us going strong and getting these items out to those who need it. Since we closed the climbing gym, we have given out over 6,500 free lunches, 100 care packages (canned goods, trash bags, toilet paper, etc.), 120 hygiene packs (1-month supplies of toothbrushes, toothpaste, soap, deodorant, floss, etc.), 800 bottles of hand sanitizer (200 given out to the neighborhood, 500 sold and 120 sent to Native American tribes), 693 boxes of produce totaling 17,325 pounds (with a target of 1000 boxes in 3 weeks), and 160 masks.CBJ: Please tell me more about the background behind the donation to Native American tribes.
Hawk: The recording artist MILCK is familiar with our gym and was talking with some of her friends who are involved with charitable organizations. When she mentioned that we were bottling hand sanitizer, the conversation just came up that some of the tribes nearby don’t have running water. That was also the same week that CNN released an article about the explosion of Coronavirus among the Navajo tribe. We had some stock of hand sanitizer, so we shipped it out. Now it’s going to be an ongoing thing. We rallied a few donors to help cover the cost. I have about another 120 bottles to send out next week. It’s just rad to be able to help. I mean, these people don’t even have running water. How are they supposed to have proper hygiene and stop the spread of the virus if they don’t even have the basic essentials?CBJ: It’s wonderful to watch Instagram videos like this one and see how Memphis Rox is continuing to support your local community in those ways. What resources have enabled you to do that?
Hawk: Two weeks into the quarantine, Vermico Smith, a friend of ours who runs a nonprofit called Kovae House, donated all sorts of goodies: boxes of Cheez-Its, Ziploc bags, trash bags, household goods, canned food, etc. We made hundreds of boxes of care packages and handed those out. This time has been difficult for the nonprofit sector as well. As soon as the Coronavirus hit, their revenue streams took a hit too. Most of the charitable donation foundations and corporations have stopped giving grants during the pandemic. At a time when we needed help, a lot of organizations had to pull back. However, our tenacity to keep helping people has inspired some of the local foundations to give us what they can to continue to feed those in need. Another local foundation saw that we didn’t give up and started giving us a $5,000 check every month to offset some of the bagged lunch food costs. We were also lucky enough to get the PPP loan. Unfortunately, that is about to end, so we are working on some fundraisers to keep as many people employed as possible until revenue streams get back to a normal pace.CBJ: Do you have any tips for gyms looking to do similar things in their wider communities?
Arnold: One thing that I lead here that we’re quite proud of is our volunteer program. I recommend starting a volunteer program to give back to the community. One of the big things that we do is we partner with an organization called Memphis City Beautiful. They focus on neighborhood clean-ups, trying to beautify the area. Get into volunteering, giving back to the community. Start with the basics. And climbing gyms that have questions about starting a volunteer program can contact me. Hawk: And it’s not volunteering at the gym that we’re primarily focused on; it’s volunteering in the city―although volunteering in the gym is an option here, and it’s necessary. Also, just engaging your members. Climbing is about community, and you have to get your community engaged during times of struggle. We couldn’t continue to hand out these free lunches every day without them. Many of our members donated goods for our care packages. The reason we are able to give out so many hygiene packs is because our climbing community stepped up and chipped in. Arnold: There were several individual people that made larger donations, but there was no distinctive donation that was applied. It was probably a collaboration of 20-25 local climbers who are regulars in our gym bringing in what they could―just a little bit here and there. And that was able to do a lot more, combining all those small efforts together.CBJ: It was eye-opening to see the COVID Racial Data Tracker and read how COVID-19 is impacting communities of color. How can gyms still keep diversity, equity and inclusion in mind right now?
Hawk: I think that DEI should remain a major goal for climbing gyms, but we all need to make sure every guest and employee is doing everything they can to limit the chance of spreading the virus, especially to those more vulnerable. Community is not just about recreation and staying fit. It’s also about having a warm belly full of food if you can’t afford it. That’s one of the things that drew me to this project in the beginning and something we continued from day one of this period. We need to keep in mind the basic principles of climbing: community, mentorship and helping each other overcome obstacles. Arnold: I feel like the word “community” gets distorted sometimes and we end up focusing on just our immediate communities. When we talk about community, we often don’t mean the community in which our gyms are situated, we just mean the community that comes and hangs out at the gym. And that is something we’re trying to change.CBJ: What are some of the protective measures you are taking at Memphis Rox upon reopening?
Hawk: We are requiring everyone that enters to wear a mask. We have some custom masks coming in, so we will also be able to provide masks for people who don’t have them. Staff will be wearing the KN95 masks. There are the N95 which are medical grade. The KN95 are the more affordable ones from China that do pretty much the same thing, they just don’t have the official stamp of approval. We’ll also be doing temperature checks. I have two of the laser thermometers that are no-touch. Obviously, we’re limiting numbers. We haven’t figured out the exact numbers yet, and we’re not doing an overall number. We’re breaking it into sections, so there will be a certain amount of people in the bouldering area, the roped area, the fitness area, etc. We are requiring hand washing or sanitizing upon entrance and exit. We’re changing the traffic pattern. We have an exit-only door so we don’t have too many people crowding in the hallway. Obviously, the six-foot social distancing rule will be in place. We’re spacing the bouldering routes out too. Probably every ten feet there will be routes and some space in between. There will be a higher turnover rate on the bouldering routes, so people don’t get bored. We’re not allowing anyone to share chalk. We won’t be renting chalk. Monitors will be walking around with a bottle of sanitizer in their hands. We want to encourage sanitizing between each climb. We know that’s not going to happen every time, but we’re going to encourage it by having someone who walks around, asking if they want a squirt. We’re limiting the amount of time that someone can be in. Right now that number is 1.5 hours.CBJ: Even with gyms reopening, in many ways it feels like the hard times are just beginning. How do you envision your programs for at-risk youth, especially, to continue to be impacted going forward?
Arnold: We have to keep in mind that there’s a large population in our community who are no longer in school now. We are one of the most underserved and impoverished neighborhoods in the country. A lot of people can’t afford memberships. We want to stay true to our mission and our community, so we won’t be limiting our gym to just members when we reopen. If we limit it to just members, then how are these members of the community going to access the gym and have a safe environment to express themselves if we do that? We also have a plot of land attached to our campus in the back that’s pretty overgrown. We have plans to turn it into an educational food garden for our after-school programs next year. The goal is to teach program participants the whole process of planting, growing and harvesting produce. I hope to in the future also use this concept in our kitchen and teach them how to make healthy meals with the produce that they’re growing. Hawk: One thing to keep in mind is that this part of the city is considered a food desert. The only actual places to eat other than our juice bar are fast-food or sit-down restaurants, which taste good but are not exactly healthy. So a lot of people don’t have access to fresh fruits and vegetables in this neighborhood.CBJ: The 2020 Solidarity art poster project sounds like a cool way for your local community to donate to Memphis Rox. What is the best way for the wider climbing community to support your work too?
Hawk: I am working on a video chat series with some professional climbers as a fundraiser for the end of June. Meagan Martin and Sam Elias have already fully committed. I wanted the first time that we’re doing this to be climbers who have been here, so they can tell their story about climbing and what it’s meant to them, how it’s a metaphor for life―overcoming obstacles, teamwork, mentorship and trust building―and tying that all together with our mission and what the future of climbing could look like. We are also creating an online store that has Memphis Rox merch and some really cool items that our routesetters have been making in the woodshop next door. Our head setter, Josh Jimenez, got a big donation of these old skateboard decks, and he cut them up and made holds out of them. With the scrap pieces he’s made bottle openers, candle holders, cell phone holders, and other things like that. They’re always coming up with things that we can sell. Our main routesetters are Josh, Chris Feghali and Tyler Liggins, and they’ve been working hard throughout this whole thing. We had some scrap panels from Walltopia, and last week they put up a new training wall in the gym which looks really good. But the biggest thing climbers can do is follow our social media, share our posts and ask their friends to donate as well. What I’ve really been trying to work on is engaging climbers throughout the country, and even the world. If we could get just $1 per month from 10,000 climbers, imagine the people we could help with that. And for most people, a couple dollars per month, you don’t even notice it.Share your story
Are you leading a climbing gym or brand through this unprecedented period? Or, do you work in the industry and have a story that others could benefit from hearing? If so, please contact us and tell us about it.The Future of Climbing Competitions in a COVID-19 World
As gyms around the country continue to reopen, a substantial contingent of people—comprised of fans, athletes, coaches, youth teams, judges, and would-be volunteers—are left to wonder how the ongoing pandemic woes will impact climbing competitions. At the elite level, the IFSC has rescheduled several of its continental championships, all of which have Olympic implications. For example, the IFSC’s European Championships, originally slated to take place in June, will now be held from October 1 to 8; the African Championships that were supposed to happen in March will now be held from December 10-13. At the national level, USA Climbing recently announced the cancellation of several national championships—while leaving open the possibility of the 2020 Open Sport and Speed National Championships still occurring at a later date.
But cancellations and postponements of previously scheduled events featuring top-level climbers do not tell the full competition story. The fact is, as long as the Coronavirus exists and remains a risk factor for gyms around the country, it will affect local competitions—events long considered to be cornerstone activities for building and bolstering a climbing community in a given market. A prime example would be the Boise Olympics, a fun-filled community climbing competition that was scheduled to take place in July at The Commons in Boise, Idaho. The pandemic forced the temporary closure of the gym and the cancellation of the competition altogether. And, The Commons and the entire gym industry now grapples with whether—and how—mitigation strategies such as social distancing and scrupulous cleaning could be applied to the crowded and highly social settings of local competitions down the road.
CBJ caught up with The Commons’ head routesetter, Gary Mattos, and The Commons’ co-owner, Clint Colwell, to talk about it all—and paint a picture of what local competitions might look like at gyms going forward.
CBJ: No reason to beat around the bush, so let’s start out with the big question: What is the future of comp climbing in a world with COVID-19?
Mattos: I think it’s anyone’s guess. Right now we don’t know what normal life will look like in the future, let alone something as non-essential as climbing competitions. Given that we are allowed to participate in a competition, I think it will look very different. The crowd cheering, the high fives and the party will have to be put on hold. With some thought and some caution, it’s still possible for athletes to be able to test themselves while social distancing, but it’ll take a lot of work and coordination. Colwell: This all depends on how our mitigation strategies are working—I’m thinking the local and federal government here—and how well the gym’s policies are working. Can we control the risk for contracting COVID with the policies (or variations) we currently have, or will we need to shut down again? When we built our reopen policies we built them thinking about possibly needing to do this for the foreseeable future, potentially years. Basically, until we have a vaccine or some therapeutic that makes COVID-19 a minor threat, we are going to need to keep the same measures that are working to control COVID in place during a comp. As of right now, that means social distancing, sanitization, and great hand-hygiene to combat the inability to sanitize holds between climbers.CBJ: So, with social distancing, sanitization, etc., is it safe to say that the logistics of local competitions will change?
Mattos: My guess is local competitions will start looking more like championship-level competitions: onsight format, one judge per zone, with zones separated and a limited number of climbers in isolation. And I don’t see a way to hold a comp with an audience. Live broadcast for parents, coaches, and other spectators Colwell: I agree with Gary, there’s no way to adhere to social distancing protocol and have a live audience unless they are watching via some streaming service or you have a very large space to sit people. The six-foot group density requirements make for a pretty sparse crowd, and I think the energy would be significantly altered. This basically necessitates an onsight format with the thoughts that Gary mentioned right now. Hopefully things are looking up in a couple months, but right now it seems like a large competition would be a prime place to spread a significant number of new COVID-19 cases. The two largest logistical issues in my mind are wiggle room for the timing of competitors showing up, and having quality enough video that you can watch people climb and be engaged; in other words, a phone camera is probably not going to cut it.CBJ: How about for the competitors themselves—what sort of mitigation strategies will they experience?
Mattos: Each participant will be screened. Athletes will need to be free of any symptoms and have their temperatures taken before entering iso. Athletes will need to wear masks, wash their hands upon entering isolation and then hand-sanitize between each climb. We will have to think about where our athletes are coming from too. How far of a radius do we allow athletes to come from? I don’t think it’s an easy answer, but right now Idaho is encouraging out of state visitors to quarantine for 14 days, so it sounds like out of state athletes might not be an option. Colwell: Gary nailed this one. Most of these measures we’re already observing so that is not an issue. The big one is the radius of participation. If the authorities are allowing participants to compete from outside the local community that’s great, but we need to have this in mind when advertising.CBJ: So the days of climbers and volunteers crowding together on the gym floor, mingling and hanging out during and after the competition, are long gone?
Mattos: Unfortunately, I imagine they’re gone for now. It just puts too many people at risk. I know a lot of people climb in comps for the comradery and atmosphere, but for now the driving motivation will have to be competition and testing yourself. Colwell: Yeah, no crowds. It’s a sad thing to think about, but in a time when we are not supposed to have other people within 6ft. radius bubbles we can’t have a large crowd in a gym.CBJ: By nature competitors must climb the same routes at competitions. There has been a lot of confusion about the CDC’s information on the virus living on hard surfaces, but it does bring up the question of whether route-sharing by competitors could be problematic—or at least unwise.
Mattos: Climbers will have to wear masks and use hand sanitizer before each climb—and after standing up from the rest chair. We’ll have to remind athletes not to touch their face and be extra aware of their hand hygiene too. Colwell: Adding on Gary’s comment, a mask greatly reduces face touches and reduces the viral load on the climbing holds. Obviously we cannot sanitize every hold after every competitor. However, by reducing face touches, cleaning your hands between climbs, and social distancing we should be able to effectively reduce exposure.CBJ: Let’s talk more about competitors’ isolation spaces—how might that change?
Mattos: I don’t think there is a gym in the nation that has the space to allow a full category of climbers in an isolation area while maintaining social distancing. We would have to implement some sort of rolling check in for isolation. For example, climbers 1 through 8 would be allowed to check in for iso 30 minutes prior to the start of the round. As soon as climber 1 steps out of iso for the first problem we let climber 9 in and so on. Colwell: Isolation needs to be large enough to support roughly eight people and still follow social distancing protocols. We think eight because climbers will have roughly four minutes per climb during the onsight round, and that will give people in iso about 30 minutes to warm up before they are called out to climb. Possibly have coaching “boxes” (like basketball) where coaches can be in during iso. You would need a judge in iso to keep folks distanced as well—and coaches could be playing that role too.CBJ: The moral here is that local competitions will look very different.
Mattos: Competitors who want the competitive aspect would still enjoy this format because they will still get to compete. Competitors who want the social aspect of climbing competitions probably would not enjoy this format. There are a lot of athletes out there that want to be in front of a crowd and enjoy the spotlight. This format might not give them that aspect of competition that they’re used to, but it might get some competitors that don’t like the crowds and the pressure to try out their first climbing competition. Colwell: For our demographic we don’t think this format we described would be as fun for spectators—and probably not as much fun for competitors. Our community likes the social aspect and excitement of cheering each other on and the spectacle of finals—who doesn’t? But, the conclusion we’ve reached about COVID-19: it is irresponsible to hold a big party-style comp at this time. This is heartbreaking for us, but we think it’s the correct conclusion for now. I am hopeful that some new piece of info will come along that allows us—the collective us—to effectively mitigate risk of COVID-19 transmission in a large group setting so we can get back to throwing big community party-style comps. But until that time, I believe that competition formats will need to change, and we will need to look for other ways to build the community and get non-competitors involved in comps. Hopefully discussions like this lead to some new ideas.New Brands, Shapes Launch During the Pandemic: CHNR May Wrap
Welcome to the first “monthly wrap” in cooperation with Climbing Hold News Reviews where we will bring you the latest in climbing holds, macros and volumes. We hope you love this as much as we do!
The climbing hold industry is at a very interesting point right now with COVID-19 and some would say it’s been flipped on its head. For example: Who would have ever thought that hangboards would be the hottest and most sought after items on the market? Who would have also thought thousands of new home climbing walls would go up around the world?
May was also a bittersweet month for the industry as we should have been hanging out, touching holds and climbing at the Climbing Wall Assocation Summit 2020. We should have been route setting at Wooden Mountain with Heel Hook Harry, while instead most of us are still on stay at home orders at home. There is a silver lining which is that many of the holds that were supposed to be debuting at this conference are starting to trickle out and they look better than ever. At least we all still got to vote on our favorites as the CBJ Grip List 2020 results which will be published later this month.