Welcome to August Monthly Wrap in cooperation with Climbing Hold News Reviews where we will bring you the latest in climbing holds, macros and volumes. Odd enough, even though we aren’t quite to Halloween, a Bat hold theme emerged this month! We hope you love this as much as we do!
E-GRIPS
E-Grips has released several new 3D rendered shapes this month which were shaped in collaboration with Render Climbing. The first set of the 3D rendered shapes is the Mosaics which feature symmetrical textures, precise angles, and the ability to exactly scale to any size. The texture also “forces climbers to make small haptic adjustments after grabbing the holds.” They will be starting this series with the Mosaic Mini Jugs, Mini Pinches, The Bolts and the Mirror Pinches. They are also releasing the Sand Dollar Slopers and Sand Dollar Dome, which also feature a unique texture, and the Bat Wing Edges and Ledges. e-grips.com
KILTER
Kilter has released all kinds of new grips for the month of August. They released over 55 new fiberglass shapes from Walltopia including expansions to previous series such as Winter, Noah and Flö. A new series, Wingate Sandstone, has emerged and features pinches and ledges with crisp yet rounded edges and gently sloping sweeping curves. In addition, they also released many new polyurethane holds from Aragon and Composite-X such as new Granite Kaiju, Granite Complex, Brushed Sandstone Ribs and Fins, Sandstone Mixed Edges, Noah Fins, Jimmy’s Southern Sandstone Kaiju Slots, and Winter XL 90 degree, 60 degree, and 30 degree stacks which are customizable holds able to be blocked by each other and other Complex series holds at each specified angle. Check out the link below under the New Holds section to see the full details. settercloset.com
URBAN PLASTIX
Urban Plastix is new to the fiberglass game but also released some new shapes with the new XL Speed Bumps. July saw the release of a new PU line called the Strato series and in August the line was expanded with the new XL Strato Sloper Ledges. Check out our July Monthly Wrap if you missed it. urbanplastix.com
ONSITE CLIMBING
OnSite is undergoing a relaunch and has released their first line, the Epidermals, which are poured by Proxy / Vertical Solutions. This line is a series of crimps that look like rolled up skin or fatty tissue which is exactly from where they derive their name. There are currently holds available ranging in size from medium to two jumbo features with more planned on the way soon by mysterious shaper/climber Heel Hook Harry out of Wooden Mountain Bouldering Gym in Loveland, CO. onsiteclimb.com
ATOMIK
Atomik has officially released about half of their newly reshaped Golfus series with more expansions are planned for the future. A recent post on their social media shows the variety of hold types this series possesses including Pinches, Jugs, Slopers and Rails all possessing the characteristic dimpled texture of the original Golfus series. The rest of the Golfus line is due to release soon. atomikclimbingholds.com
PUSHER
Pusher is back with new releases featuring redesigned dual texture original shapes from climbing legend Boone Speed. In addition, Pusher has also released new home wall sets shaped by Jared Roth including a mini Font set (in blue) and angled hand (black) and foot jibs (lime green and light pink) which are now being poured in house. pusher.world
360 HOLDS
360 Holds is expanding from their commercial roots and releasing new Home Climbing Wall Kits. There are a total of six sets including holds for kids, beginner, intermediate, advanced as well as a micro kit and home wall start up set. These holds are available exclusively through Premium Holds based out of Dallas, TX. 360holds.compremiumholds.com
NEO HOLDS
Neo Holds is a South Korean based company which is releasing their second generation macros designed in collaboration with 360 Holds. There will be a total of twelve variably sized scoop macros with six in the Genesis series and six in the Absolute series. These macros do not have a flange and feature reinforced washers standard with 360 Holds. They will be available in the standard ten 360 Holds colors, available in Europe through the Holds Gallery and Butora in Asia. They are not yet distributed in the United States though that will likely change in the near future. neo-holds.eu
BLUEPILL
Bluepill has released the Originals which are a series of bulbous crimpy and sloping lips in both fiberglass and polyurethane (shown in blue). Bluepill macros and volumes are distributed exclusively by Blocz Distribution in the United States while Bluepill holds are poured and released exclusively by Proxy (Vertical Solutions) in the United States. bluepill-climbing.com
BLOCZ
Blocz is releasing a series of bread-inspired names with a mixture of screw-on and bolt-on polyurethane edges, jugs and pinches. There are a variety of holds ranging from small to 2XL sizes which expand their existing lines of edges, jugs and slopers. blocz.com
ELEMENT
Element has been quiet for a while, but new releases are on the horizon including these two new sets shaped by master shaper Louie Anderson – the Confluence Pockets and Crimps. These are an expansion to the existing Confluence series featuring smooth stalactites, pinches, jugs, edges and jibs. The new two new pocket sets and four new crimp sets are available individually or together as a super set. elementclimbing.com
ROBINHOOD
Robinhood has released three new sets which is giving us a preview of things to come. Introducing the Medium Foundation Flat Edges (in green) and Incuts (in yellow) as well as the Medium Slug Pinches (in pink) all shaped by Andy Nelson of Method Grips. robinhoodclimbing.com
ENDURE
Endure is a small batch holds company based out of Richmond, VA. Recently they have released the Furrows which were carved by experienced shaper Kegan Minock. These holds are a series of Font-shaped holds ranging in size from small to 2XL currently with several larger features planned, together the most complete series Endure has released to date. They have also released a newly redesigned set of Teacups which are smooth positive jugs in different incremental sizes. climbendure.com
POLYTALON
Polytalon is a German-based brand which features highly engineered production processes. Their latest series The Bats were 3D modeled and produced with conventional yet upgraded eco-friendly manufacturing. The Bats are a series of variable size and angled edges designed to be used together as blockers which will be available in both full texture and dual texture. The series ranges from XS to 2XL in size and are currently available in eight colors – but why would you want the Bats in any other color besides black? polytalon.com
SATELLITE
Satellite is a hold company from Japan that has recently released tons of new grips from XS to multiple XL shapes. They have recently added on the Decamaboco pinches, Super Round Jugs, Ball Ball slopers and the scooping dish Apollo 2XL holds #4 and #5. We also spotted the Shinka 2XS sharp and mild crimps on their website. Satellite Climbing is exclusively distributed by Solostile Climbing Lab in the United States. satelliteclimbing.com
GATOWALLS
Gatowalls is a newer producer of climbing holds, macros, volumes, training equipment and climbing walls out of Poland. This month they continued growing their line with the new Pentagon shaped volume (shown in green) as well as additions of the Titanic I and II as well as the Pyramith I, II and III volumes. These are symmetrical left and right sided volume add-ons which are specifically designed to fit on the Pentagon volume. They have also released a new line of holds with the Wings I and II (in blue) which are comp style edges shaped by Michau Jedrzejewski. gatowalls.com
CITRUS HOLDS
Citrus Holds based out of Canada is a brand that we haven’t seen much of in the US yet, but their available hold lines are growing quickly. They have recently released the Basic Jugs (shown in pink) which is a series of fourteen variably positive holds designed specifically for easy walls / climbs. The Sandstone Fossils (in green) are also new and are six rail and pinch shaped holds which are wide enough for both hands. citrusholds.com
CORNERSTONE CLIMBING
Cornerstone Climbing is a brand-new hold company emerging from Canada. They have been quietly building new lines of holds, starting with a focus on smaller shapes. Shaper Kiefer Burrows has released several new series including the cobble-crimp Originems (shown in yellow), Patchwork, Vanisher edges (red and black), Blind Eye slopers (blue) and the dual texture edge Havoks (also black). Their website has just launched. climbcornerstone.myshopify.com
This week’s HWOW takes home-gyms to a new dimension. The Hell Cave, a Moonboard, and a sweet bluetooth system make Jed P’s home gym in Madbury, NH, the ultimate training dojo. Check out past HWOW here.
When did you build your wall? Was it a COVID baby?
This spring, but we were planning it since 2018. I started thinking of this build back in 2016 when my wife and I started building our house. I knew there would be usable space above my wood shop and remember standing up on a frozen deck in a snowstorm figuring heights and widths of the attic so I could build the cave.
How long did it take you to build and what did that time look like?
3 months. Workdays really varied with what we were doing. Some days we would be framing and others we’d run duct work and set up the mini split and air filtration. I was working on the project in between work, some evenings, and every weekend. On the weekends I would work 10/12-hour days to get it done. I definitely burnt the candle at both ends and my wife was there helping and supporting me with every aspect of the build. If I was working on the cave it was nonstop. Towards the end of the process, I realized between my job and the build I had worked over 90 days straight and a lot of them over 8 hours a day. I’ve been a finish carpenter for over 20 years with lots of experience in other trades. This build was a point of pride for me: I’m a climber and a wood worker and I wanted the Hell Cave to show that!!!
Who helped you with the build?
It was mostly me and my wife building but friends in our COVID bubble did come and help when tasks were just too big. My friends Todd and Chris were hands on! Todd saved me by helping with the insulation and hauling heavy items up the ladder. Chris came and did 90% of the electrical. If it weren’t for these two, I’d still be building the Cave. One of the best parts about the cave is how the community came together and donated to buy holds and training equipment!!! If it wasn’t for Korey’s iPad donation to run the Moonboard, as well as music and dollars from Haji, Andersen, Little Will, and Vivian, we wouldn’t have all the different holds and campus equipment we have!!! When friends come together, great things happen!!! I can’t wait for Covid-19 to be under wraps and have an open house to show everyone what they contributed to!!!!
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build? Any surprises there?
The whole build cost approximately $16000 without the holds. I started with a budget and kept it under wraps pretty much till the end. Overages included the flooring and unseen mechanical mistakes. Most of the finances went to building out the attic, HVAC, air filtration, insulation, and the plywood for the walls. Minor costs came from adding the finishing touches, electrical, and building the stairs. The HVAC, the Moonboard, and insulation were the most expensive parts. Surprisingly, framing and electrical were the least expensive major parts of the build. Being in the trades, I was pretty spot on with figuring costs. I think I was most excited about my sound system that runs off of blue tooth and only costed us $200.
What was your primary incentive for the wall? Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
I wanted to make a space that was clean, easy to use, and Aesthetically pleasing. It really was dictated by the space we had and a goal to keep lines clean and the space simple.
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
The HVAC and the aretes.
What would you do differently?
I’d use all Baltic Birch panels.
Did you make any mistakes along the way or choose to re-do any aspects?
There were plenty of little mistakes made but nothing that needed a re-do. Most of the mistakes revolved around the mechanicals and stuff outside of wood working.
Highlights / lowlights of the process?
The most exciting part of the build was getting all the holds on the Moonboard and setting up the training equipment. Seeing it all come together into an amazing place to train was really rewarding. There were lots of little highlights that kept us going like getting the AC running and the sound system going. There were also lots of lows. the tediousness of certain jobs such as insulation and hauling almost 40 sheets of plywood up a ladder really beat us up. A few times, frustration crept in and we would butt heads and have to take mental breaks.
What is your favorite aspect?
The Moonboard and comfort of the work out space. Both my wife and I have specific routes and grades we are gunning for. We feel the Moonboard is really going to up our game.
How often do you use the wall? Do you think you’ll still use it as much when all of the gyms open back up?
My wife uses the space 5-6 days a week and I use it 3-4 days a week. When it is safe to go to gyms again, we will. The ‘Hell Cave’ will be an easy place to train, while the gyms will be more just about the climbing.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Keep your lines simple and if you have space, have a few different angles.
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize like this (prizes vary each week):
USA Climbing recently introduced its rulebook for the 2020-2021 competition season. “While this Rulebook version is being released during a global pandemic, the rules contained herein do not represent USA Climbing’s entire attempt to update or modify rules or practices in order to enhance the safety of any individual preparing for or attending a USA Climbing competition or to meet local, state, or federal requirements or recommendations,” states the rulebook’s Introduction. “USA Climbing expects that additional policies and rules may be released as required or prudent, and that those additional policies and rules will work in conjunction with, or possibly replace, the rules herein.”
Many of the addendums and changes in the new rulebook are related to USA Climbing aligning more with the rules of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), the global governing body of competition climbing. The new rulebook explains: “A multitude of rules have been updated, added, or removed so as to follow the directive of the USA Climbing Board of Directors and Executive Staff to align with the IFSC Rulebook where possible, and to provide appropriate adaptations where precise alignment with IFSC Rules is not in the interest of USA Climbing’s mission, market, or interest.”
Climbing Business Journal previously reported on some approved changes to USA Climbing season structures back in February; in large part, this new rulebook for 2020-2021 offers a more detailed explanation of those changes and competition regulations.
The new rulebook can be accessed here.
A family-led project, the Alta Climbing gym in Arizona planned for 2021 will feature a variety of climbing—including top-out bouldering and roped climbing—along with “plenty of room to relax.” All renderings courtesy of Alta Climbing
ALTA CLIMBING
GILBERT, ARIZONA
Specs: The new gym, planned as a 30,000-square-foot facility (with a maximum wall height of 55 feet), will feature bouldering and roped climbing, along with yoga, spin cycles and a full fitness center. Particularly noteworthy will be a 15-meter speed wall built to IFSC standards in the gym. Additionally, a training area will include a MoonBoard, a Tension Board, a campus board, and a station with a variety of hangboards.
“We also wanted to make sure there was plenty of room to relax and congregate,” notes Alta’s co-founder Pam Owens, citing a meeting room in the gym, as well as a pro shop, a party room, an outdoor party deck (facing west) and an outdoor “party patio” (facing east). Programming at Alta Climbing will range from summer camps and competition teams to climbing leagues, private lessons, and corporate team-building events.
The upcoming Alta Climbing gym in Arizona will feature an abundance of climbing wall terrain—with walls for roped climbing up to 55 feet tall and a 15-meter speed wall—as well as a training area and full fitness center.Walls: Walltopia
CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro
Instagram: @altaclimbingaz
Facebook: Alta Climbing
Website: https://altaclimbing.com/In Their Words: “Rock climbing has long been a family affair for the Eaves Family, who started rock climbing at Rock Canyon in Provo, Utah, more than 30 years ago. The ten Eaves children were raised by their parents, Ron and Pat Eaves, to stand tall and climb high…in life and up mountains. Their father brought in an extremely large boulder for the kids to climb on and swing and jump from at their childhood home in Show Low, Arizona, and so their climbing began. A number of years after the family moved to Utah, their father passed away leaving Pat with ten children ranging in age from 4-16, and there wasn’t a lot of money left over each month for entertainment. Fortunately, climbing is cheap (once you have the gear) and they lived just a stone’s throw away from some of the best outdoor rock climbing in the area known as Rock Canyon. Climbing quickly became, and still is, a passion for the Eaves family. Eric, Pam, Deborah, and Paul are four of the ten children and have combined forces to build Alta Climbing.”
—Pam Owens, co-founder
Behind the Desk… is a series that interviews people who are part of the climbing industry—those who run companies, manage staff, and own gyms. And while there has been a lot of talk about gyms’ reopenings (or, in some cases, grand openings) during the COVID-19 pandemic, this week CBJ reached out for a Behind the Desk segment with owner Ben Waggoner, who is aiming to sell his gym. The tone of the interview is positive, however, as Cave Climbing in Texas has created a lot of positive memories for a lot of people over the years. And ideally a new owner will be found who will continue to operate the gym for many years to come.
Ben Waggoner says he would prefer to sell Cave Climbing sooner rather than later as his wedding (and a big move) are fast approaching. All photos courtesy of WaggonerName: Ben Waggoner
Title: Owner, Cave ClimbingLocation: El Paso, Texas
CBJ: Tell me a little bit about the decision to sell the gym.
WAGGONER: The decision to sell the gym was made last year, in 2019. I opened the gym with help from my wife and the local community back in 2016. I have since been divorced [2018] and have been seeking the next phase of life, whether it be continuing in El Paso or changing locations. I started a relationship with a woman near my family on the other side of the country and…I asked her to marry me in June! When the new relationship seemed like it meant I would be moving, I was trying to decide if I should keep the gym running from afar or just sell it. I was getting advice from businesspeople telling me that the ease of residual and almost passive income was making the choice to maintain ownership hard to pass up.
In 2018 and 2019 I had travelled extensively to visit family and climbed often to satisfy the requirements for the AMGA Rock Guide Course while maintaining the gym and checking in on occasion. Not too difficult. But with the current state of the world taking away a lot of the revenue we normally see, I would rather sell the gym sooner than later so that I can move and get married without the stress of keeping it afloat from across the country. With the right offer, I would prefer to sell. If I don’t get a proper price for the value of the gym, then I’ll have another decision to make—either keep it going or take it down to re-open a new gym in my next location of life.
CBJ: There’s kind of the elephant in the room right now for any gym discussion, in the form of the pandemic. How has Cave Climbing been impacted by COVID-19?
WAGGONER: We closed our doors (voluntarily) on March 16 and opened them back up on June 15. I could have opened up on May 18, but the gym needed to get a facelift, so I extended the closure a little longer, paid my staff to help add a couple of new features, re-paint the walls and re-cover the floors with carpet after throwing out the old vinyl. Such a small gym doesn’t need a whole lot of visitors to stay afloat, since we are paying only one staff to manage it from the front desk each shift. We are climbing under 20 percent capacity—eight climbers per two-hour session with two more in the tension board room…and we are doing ok—just above “breaking even” with new members signing up and day pass climbers slowly starting to return.
There are many people who are still not ready to return to the gym, and we have lost the capacity to have the normal revenue of easy and busy days of summer—our peak season. Last July saw an average of 40-60 climbers per day, half of which were day passes; now we are getting 20-25 climbers, most of which are members. We raised our prices a little after COVID and no one has batted an eye or complained. Most people are very grateful to have the place to climb and are excited to see the improvements we’ve made. Moving forward, and for the time being, the question is how to keep the gym profitable during these times—what changes should or could be made?
Cave Climbing has been host to a number of kids camps and clubs over the years, as well as Reel Rock showings and many other community events.
CBJ: Of course the hope is that someone else will purchase your gym and continue to run it. But as you look back on your tenure as an owner, what are some of the highlights of the gym?
WAGGONER: To list a few:
Getting to know and love an incredible community of climbers
Getting to be involved with the birthplace of so many climbers who now crush hard at Hueco
Learning from and working with Jason Kehl and Ty Foose—both have been staples on the setting team and both have had huge impacts in my formation of the gym and design. They both have frequently brought in their freshest holds they’ve shaped and have been kind enough to let us climb and set with them. I simply cannot say enough about this privilege.
The community events like our bi-annual competitions, black light parties and showing of the Reel Rock films.
Guiding at Hueco Tanks—bouldering, top-rope, sport and trad…(yes—there’s great climbing in addition to bouldering; you might be surprised how many people don’t realize that Hueco has more than boulders.)
Kids camps and clubs. We’ve run camps during the mornings in the summers and we’ve had success in both homeschool p.e. classes as well as after-school clubs.
Hosting and helping children in the summer camp for the visually impaired as well as other El Paso Community events.
Attending the Climbing Wall Association Summit yearly, reconnecting with friends in the industry and returning with a selection of new holds from one of the many vendors who set up a booth.
CBJ: Are there any lessons you learned—or wisdom you could impart to others who want to open a climbing gym?
WAGGONER: Count the cost. How much time and money will it take to build this thing?…then double it.
Ask questions. Be teachable and flexible…humble and eager to listen. Desire feedback, criticism and growth.
Expect nothing from friends and supporters…and/but be extremely grateful for any help they give.
Continue to feed the hunger. When the time seems right for you and those closest to you, go for it without wavering and ride the waves of emotion, negative thoughts, rumors of other gyms… and with resolute determination, see it through to completion. Yeah—there’s no shortage of parallels to climbing and the insatiable desire to send the project.
Work hard, enjoy the process, and smile. Smile though you may be approaching the biggest crux of your life.
Sure, you can learn a lot from Facebook groups and YouTube videos about building walls and volumes, but do not neglect the expertise of the Climbing Wall Association and other professionals in the industry.
Cave Climbing in El Paso, Texas, has a storied history–in an area known for legendary climbing.
CBJ: For many people around the country, a gym is their only source of climbing. But does a gym’s role change when it is near a world-class outdoor spot like Hueco? What is coexistence like that for an indoor facility and an outdoor gem?
WAGGONER: El Paso is a unique kind of “climber” city for several reasons, but with Hueco right next door, there exists certain challenges to overcome. The goal for this little gym has been to see Hueco as an opportunity and asset rather than as a competitive factor. More specifically:
Regarding Hueco’s off-season: Cave Climbing’s peak season arrives when other gyms seem to slow down—over the summer. Even when it is just too hot, there are still several locals and routesetters who still prefer to suffer in the heat of Hueco. But for the most part, there’s room for the Hueco and gym climbers and summer camps from June through September to enjoy the comforts of indoor climbing. The Cave has also used Hueco as an access for “gym to crag” days. In the summer months, mornings on north sport routes and trad lines are shaded through the coolest part of the day, until about noon.
There are those (my former self included) who would consider indoor climbing as only training to become a better outdoor climber. Some preach this and can make those who only enjoy plastic judged as a “second rate” climber. These kinds of crushers can promote an elitist, “don’t-bother-me” environment. A healthy balance of both types of climbers has been kept well through the years in our El Paso gym, as the typical day includes a good mix of climbers who are helpful and friendly towards each other, working on projects and cheering on beginners. Routesetters (who all strongly prefer Hueco) are commonly found in the gym and are ready to help decipher beta when asked. Some, if not many of the gym climbers eventually climb themselves out of the gym and become an outdoor climber during the season and then come back for a summer membership when that time comes. Understanding that it’s OK that not all climbers want to go outside, even when it’s a world-class crag like Hueco, has been a huge change of philosophy as a gym owner, and that has had an impact in cultivating the accepting and friendly community of the Cave.
During the Hueco Season: From November through March the gym sees an influx of seasonal Hueco climbers who come in on rainy days. Having the climbing world fly into town has brought more than a few big names and professional routesetters and climbers into the facility. While this in itself does not maintain business during these months, it certainly helps. For the most part, the flow of the gym has served the business well to have members climb mostly during the week while local families and birthday parties climb on weekends. While bouldering tours don’t generate a large source of revenue, renting crash pads and shoes while guiding the occasional Saturday trip for beginners can supplement income and offer a way to make some money while having the chance to climb in the park.
CBJ: What’s the ideal future for the gym, in your opinion, and what should someone do if they are reading this and think they could take it into its next phase?
WAGGONER: I believe that this little gym could be an ideal situation for someone who’s ready to make the transition to ownership but may not have the deepest pockets. Someone who has been working in a gym for a while, knows the ins and outs of management, setting and operation costs, and has a passion for climbing community and a healthy gym environment—this would be a great fit. It doesn’t hurt that Hueco is right next door as it would certainly help the new owner to be in El Paso for the first couple of years. The gym can be run with only one staff present at the front desk, so staffing is cheap, keeping costs low if the owner is willing to work several shifts herself/himself. The new owner could keep the facility centered on beginner to intermediate climbing, or see the gym grow as a more serious training facility for the stronger Hueco climbers. Further adjustments to the business model could include expanding to 24-hour access. When things settle down, having a profitable business should be easy, as it has been for myself, even with the possibility of newer facilities opening.
Share your story
Are you leading a climbing gym or brand through this unprecedented period? Or, do you work in the industry and have a story that others could benefit from hearing? If so, please contact us and tell us about it.
This week’s Homewall of the Week lives in Neenah, WI. With holds for practically every t-nut and a MoonBoard thrown in the mix, Joe M.’s home-gym hosts an endless amount of boulder problems. Check out past HWOW here.
When did you build your wall? Was it a COVID baby?
2017. We built the wall before COVID. We did have to cut back on the access to the wall and we require anyone climbing to wear a mask currently.
How long did it take you to build and what did that time look like?
On and off for 6 months. We framed 3/4 of the wall in a day with the help of a builder. The last 1/4 and sheeting of the wall was completed in bits and pieces over the next 2 months after that.
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build? Any surprises there?
I’d venture a guess of ~$2500 for materials (excluding holds). There have been roughly 25 sheets of 3/4” plywood, ~35-40 2×6 or 2×8 at 14’ or 16’, and 1600 t nuts. Holds are by far the largest cost for this wall. We’ve been thrifty by going second hand and foraging the online forums for holds. The goal is to create an epic spray wall in conjunction with a Moonboard.
What was your primary incentive for the wall? Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
Consideration from friends. We knew we wanted a training space – not a rec wall. We knew there would be time to fill in the gaps and continue to add holds as funds and opportunity arose. We also wanted to maximize the 9.5ft of vertical.
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Working around piping on the ceiling while maximizing wall space.
What would you do differently?
I love board climbing but we started the wall before the boom. The Moonboard is a fixture – but the tension and kilter boards look awesome…maybe someday.=
Did you make any mistakes along the way or choose to re-do any aspects?
The slab and 10-degree section are the weak link of the wall. We will eventually redo that area to create space for the Moonboard moves on the right side.
What is your favorite aspect?
The community we have developed and the gains we can track. Using the spray wall and the Moonboard to see progress is gratifying and infuriating.
How often do you use the wall? Do you think you’ll still use it as much when all of the gyms open back up?
The wall gets climbed on 3-4 times a week. I use it as much or more than I expected. I have 2 little kids and no gyms within 1.5hrs – I created my own gym to get by.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Go for it. If you are on the fence – focus on what you want to use it for and develop a plan to have the wall help you achieve your goals. Also, varying angles and features make a huge difference. Building volumes isn’t hard and adds tons of variety to a wall.
Do you have any particular climbing goals that your gym will help you with?
When we built the wall, I’d been in a 3-4 year hiatus from climbing. When built, I was unable to climb any Moonboard problems for about 3 months. Now that I’ve been Climbing regularly for a few years, I’d love to tick a double-digit boulder outside – still a long way to go but it’s possible.
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize like this (prizes vary each week):
The ongoing pandemic crisis has impacted sporting events around the world, climbing events included. But organizers are getting creative to continue competitions in a safer way. In August, USAC announced a new virtual format, and the IFSC held its first ever remote event which involved the Speed climbing discipline (pictured here). Photo by René Oberkirch / IFSC (IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019)
The summer of 2020 was set to be an historical moment for the sport of climbing and a celebration for many of its insiders. Decades of hard work and growth at all levels of the industry―from gyms to grips―would culminate in one international event: the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020. At the highest level of competition climbing, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC)―which formed in large part with the goal of permanent Olympic inclusion―would reach a milestone on its Olympic journey.
But that journey took a detour with the outbreak of the global coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic. The Olympic Games in Tokyo were postponed to 2021, and so too the Olympic dreams of the qualified athletes training for gold. This summer there will not be the historical moment that was hoped for, but there have been moments of ingenuity amid the hardships of the pandemic crisis. Solving “problems” is literally what we do in climbing, and event organizers have been getting creative to solve the latest ones.
This month, for example, the IFSC held its first ever remote competition. Titled the IFSC Connected Speed Knockout, the event brought together more than 50 athletes from seven countries for a virtual competition in the Speed climbing discipline. An unusual format, the international event involved almost no international traveling. Instead, competitors raced up the standard Speed route on a 15-meter Speed wall in their region. Times were still compared as in a normal Speed competition, except the athletes weren’t climbing side by side but instead at five locations, some thousands of miles apart.
Headquartered in Torino, Italy, for many people across the pond the IFSC and IFSC events can seem like distant global affairs―especially when North American athletes are not competing in them. The international competition season restarted this month with the IFSC Connected Speed Knockout and first stage of the IFSC World Cup Series in Briançon, and the ongoing pandemic in the United States prevented its familiar faces from competing. But just as people behind the desk and behind the wrench have powered our industry at the local level, so too have developments at the international level been made possible through the hard work of real people with raw ideas.
Like many gyms in North America, the IFSC office was temporarily closed during the two-month lockdown in Italy. Staff members continued to work from home, including Alessandro Di Cato, the IFSC Event Officer who works in the IFSC Sport Department. In fact, the IFSC Connected Speed Knockout was initially a brainchild of Di Cato. To learn more about organizing such a unique event, Climbing Business Journal reached out to Di Cato for an interview. Our conversation led to a welcome discussion on the essence of sport, connection in a COVID-19 world, and the future of international climbing events.
Alessandro Di Cato (right) beside Juan Martin Miranda (left), Sport Manager of Sport Climbing at the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018. The event marked sport climbing’s first appearance at an Olympic-level event, and Di Cato assisted with the sport preparations.
CBJ: It was fascinating to see the IFSC Connected Speed Knockout take place on the first weekend of August. Prior to the event, IFSC President Marco Scolaris congratulated the Sport Department for coming up with the idea. Could you please tell me more about how the idea originated?
Di Cato: Everything started with the Coronavirus and the fact that there was a kind of depression in the world of sport. With no events taking place, I started to think more about the key aspects of our job. And one of the key aspects of my work as Event Officer at the IFSC is helping organize our international events. The mission of the IFSC is to promote the sport of climbing worldwide, and one of the major ways we do this is through international events. At the core, what do you need for an international event? Of course you need a location, but then you also need international travel.
In particular, we wanted to create something for our athletes. From May to October, elite sport climbing athletes from all over the world have gotten into a routine of competing at IFSC events, which increases their visibility. But without events, that exposure and so much more is lost. And then there’s the IFSC itself. We wanted to do something new during this period, something that was innovative in order to continue promoting the sport.
I was thinking about the limits on international travel, the importance of international events, and even the nature of the sport climbing disciplines. Boulder and Lead are the two disciplines which receive the most attention, but competitions in these disciplines use different holds and walls, so it was hard to start planning a remote event with them. But for Speed, the sport equipment is the same everywhere. There is an homologation process with certified timing systems, auto-belays, holds and walls. So the Speed discipline provides the perfect characteristics to organize an event in different locations because you can have the same infrastructure in different places around the world.
And that’s when I thought, “Why not organizing something in different locations?” International athletes would be able to compete again in a season that has had many events postponed or cancelled, and they wouldn’t have to travel internationally to do so.
CBJ: What was one of the core aspects of international sport that was preserved with a remote format?
Di Cato: One of the main aspects of international sport is the opportunity to measure your strengths against people of other countries. I think this is one of the core values of sport in general―certainly not the only one, but an important one. In many ways, you don’t have sport if you don’t have competition. And international athletes want to measure themselves against the best athletes from other countries and strive to be the best in their respective disciplines. Holding an international event across different locations at least preserves that value: the ability to compare.
Hosting international events is a team effort, involving constant coordination both prior to and during the event with National Federations, event organizers, routesetters, officials, athletes and more. Here, Di Cato discusses with IFSC Technical Delegate Christophe Billon at The World Games Wroclaw 2017. Photo by Szymon Aksienionek
CBJ: Marco Scolaris also mentioned that “National Federations embraced the project with enthusiasm.” It must have been so different for the participating NFs and athletes to organize and host, train for and compete in such a unique event. What strategies were helpful in communicating the idea and building enthusiasm for the event among NFs and athletes in different regions, everyone navigating COVID-19?
Di Cato: First, I have to say that I really felt unity during this period. Together with the National Federations, we have really been united and always thinking about what’s best for the sport.
In general, the really good thing about this project was that everybody was happy to try it. Obviously athletes want to compete, and National Federations want to give the opportunity to their athletes to compete. People were pleased to have a sporting event, especially in a lockdown period―I really enjoy football as well, and at the time this idea was proposed football in Italy had not yet restarted―people really wanted to watch some sport, to take their mind off things. In so many ways it was valuable to produce something during this period, even if it was something quite different.
I’m always in contact with National Federations for my work, and event organizers especially. So I started to call the people I work with, basically, to contact people and ask them, “What do you think about this idea? Do you think your athletes would be interested?” Because in the end the IFSC is an international body, and a body that lives through its parts. When I asked for feedback, the overwhelming response was positive. Of course some of the National Federations were not able to do it due to restrictions around the pandemic or their training centers being closed.
Also, I need to say, on more pragmatic terms, it’s not very expensive to host an event of this nature. It’s quite easy to organize because all the National Federations I contacted have a permanent Speed wall in their country. Then it’s just a matter of coordination, arranging the video shooting and gathering all the athletes, etc.
CBJ: With a remote format, I can imagine there were many hurdles that were overcome to prepare the event itself. On the sport side, what special considerations needed to be given to maintaining a safe environment for the people onsite, as well as a fair competition across different fields of play, venues and officiating?
Di Cato: I think we need to start with acknowledging it is different from a live competition where everybody competes in the same field of play. Because even if we have certified sport equipment on different fields of play, conditions like the venues, humidity, temperature, time of day, etc., will still be different. We knew that when we started the project.
But at the same time we tried to enforce rules and measures in order to be consistent and have as fair of a competition as possible. Firstly, we asked each National Federation to appoint an international judge from our pool of judges. A second thing, we asked all the National Federations that wanted to participate to comply with the specifications of the IFSC for the official sport equipment, including the timing systems, speed holds, auto-belays, etc. Finally, we asked for only one continuous video, with no breaks or interruptions. This was requested just to ensure there were no second attempts made.
The summer of 2020 has looked quite different for Tokyo qualified athletes, and athletes from North America have not competed on the IFSC circuit since February due to COVID-19. Photo by Daniel Gajda / IFSC (Tokyo qualified athlete Alannah Yip of Canada climbing at the IFSC PanAmerican Championships in Los Angeles earlier this year)
CBJ: On the communication side, what a challenge it must have been to promote an event taking place across different locations, as well as generate value for sponsors and interest from media. What special arrangements needed to be made to provide as-live streaming, and make the experience worthwhile for sponsors and media?
Di Cato: It required a lot of organization in advance, and in a short time frame. Because we launched this project around the middle of June. We were then in close contact with the event organizers so that everything would take place in a window of one week. All the climbing took place across one week, and then we gave ourselves another week to edit everything. The athletes wanted to know the results, since there is excitement around that.
So I have to say that the production team at Obsess Medias did a very good job. The event organizers send a two-hour video, and then you need to cut each single race and put it alongside another race that’s at a different minute in another video. So the production team was very involved, calling the local production crews and telling them exactly how they wanted it to feel.
In terms of media, we left this in the hands of the National Federations. Because, for example, the climbing in Innsbruck took place during the week of the Austria Summer Series. And during the Austria Summer Series there were already media onsite in Innsbruck.
CBJ: Aleksandra Kalucka of Poland, one of the winners of the competition, mentioned afterwards how strange it felt to compete in this format, since her “emotions were between competition and training mode.” Do you think this was one of the most challenging aspects for the athletes?
Di Cato: Yes, exactly. Because at the same time you practice with your colleagues in these settings and you are always comparing yourself with your team, but now you are also comparing your times at your national training center or climbing gym with athletes of other countries. So it is challenging for them in this way.
In addition, because the climbing took place at different times, for this event we also asked the athletes to make 1/8 final, ¼ final, ½ final and final runs―as if they were to make it―but they didn’t know if these runs would count. So they were always trying to do their best, but we weren’t able to show all the runs.
CBJ: Were there any other highlights around the event you can share that my questions didn’t cover?
Di Cato: I will say that for sure I was very happy when I saw the event was broadcast on Indonesian TV. They broadcast the full programme, and one of the winners of the competition, Rahmad Adi, climbs for Indonesia, so this was a nice story for their country.
Second story, obviously I asked feedback after the event from coaches and the people attending, and mostly they told me that the athletes were very happy and that it was a nice way to restart the season. For me this was the best part, because if the athletes are happy, everybody should be happy.
Di Cato says remote Boulder and Lead events have been considered, but the holds and walls present a unique challenge for maintaining a level field of play for elite athletes. Image by René Oberkirch / IFSC (Tokyo qualified athlete Nathaniel Coleman of the United States climbing at IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019)
CBJ: In a few words, what should event organizers keep in mind when considering remote Speed events?
Di Cato: There is so much coordination that needs to be done prior to holding an event like this. All the National Federations need to arrange the perfect day, call the athletes, send you the start list and tell you who is going to compete. You find a date, you validate the sport equipment, you nominate a judge, you brief the judge, etc. So it requires a lot of coordination in advance.
CBJ: Looking into the future, are there other remote IFSC Connected Speed events in the works, and what would need to happen for an IFSC Connected Boulder or Lead event to be possible?
Di Cato: The Speed Knockout was a first test, which proved successful. At the moment we still need to have further discussions about whether we will be having other events like that for Speed. Then obviously we had the idea for Boulder and Lead, but it was definitely a further step. Because a little twist of one hold, just the slightest change, this is exactly the difference that can make one elite athlete winning over another at this level. But we are always keeping an eye on alternative models and events.
CBJ: Thank you Alessandro!
Construction and funding for Crux’s second location in Austin stayed on track through the pandemic crisis, and the Central Austin gym opened last weekend with free climbing around Global Climbing Day. All photos courtesy of Crux Climbing Center
Crux CentralAustin, Texas
Specs: Crux Climbing Center has opened the doors to its second climbing gym in Austin, Texas. Located more centrally in Austin than its Crux South location, the 20,000-square-foot bouldering facility includes a mezzanine and features a yoga room, fitness area, kids’ area, lounge area and locker rooms with saunas. The gym area also boasts a coffee shop (Spokesman Coffee), and the building is shared with a brewery (Brewtorium). Construction and funding for the bouldering gym stayed on track during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The opening of the new gym coincided with The North Face’s Global Climbing Day. Crux offered free climbing at Crux Central from Friday to Sunday, as well as free climbing on Saturday—the day of the event—at its Crux South gym.
A third Crux location is also in the works, a 55,000-square-foot facility with 65-foot climbing walls. This gym will be located just north of Austin in Round Rock, Texas, and is scheduled to open late 2021 or early 2022. In just over two years since Crux first announced the Central expansion last year, the Crux brand will have expanded from one to three gyms.
Crux Central, announced end of May 2019, navigated the COVID-19 challenges and opened in under 15 months.Walls and Flooring: Vertical Solutions
Website: cruxclimbingcenter.comInstagram: @cruxcc
In Their Words: “Our Crux community has been reaching out for years about building a location further north, and we are so excited to find a spot perfect for them. It’s central, has a coffee shop, a brewery next door, and the space is unlike any gym you’ve seen. We’re eager to keep expanding Crux’s community all over the broader Austin area.”
—Grace Nicholas, co-owner, COO and CMO of Crux
Image: USA Climbing logo[The following is a message from USA Climbing introducing the diversity, equity and inclusion survey which launched on August 26, 2020, created by its DEI Task Force.]
Dear member of the climbing community,
On behalf of the USA Climbing Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion Task Force, we would like your help and ask that you take a few minutes to complete the following survey on the state of diversity, equity and inclusion within the climbing community.
This survey has been created by volunteer members serving on the Task Force in order to obtain baseline data and the information collected will be used for the purposes of research and planning. All responses are anonymous. The results will be used to identify additional areas of need and propose further action steps to the USA Climbing Board of Directors.
It is our hope to hear from everyone who participates in USA Climbing. If there are multiple people in your household, please have each person who would like their interests and experiences collected fill out a separate survey by using the same link that brought you to this greeting.
Thank you in advance for your participation. Your contribution will help us shape a more diverse, equitable and inclusive sport.
Thank you.
This year’s edition of The North Face’s Global Climbing Day took place on Saturday, August 22. Due to the challenges of this period, The North Face hosted a digital version of the annual celebration. For the main event, The North Face brought together leaders from around the industry for a series of conversations on inclusion, equity and access that were live streamed on YouTube, and The North Face committed to donating over $80,000 to the participating groups.
The video―moderated by The North Face athlete Sam Elias―began with a discussion on climbing and community impact with Jon Hawk and Malik Martin of Memphis Rox and Tyler Algeo and Ed Nhlane of Climb Malawi. Later, Summer Winston of The Brown Ascenders and Erynne Gilpin of Indigenous Womxn Climb dived into a conversation related to community organizing. The video concluded with thoughts on making gyms more accessible and inclusive from Maureen Beck of Paradox Sports and Abby Dione of Coral Cliffs. In between these conversations, spotlight videos highlighted the impact of Memphis Rox on its community, the work of Paraclimbing London and the new experimental program ALL RISE.
Below, we highlight 6 topics from these conversations that stood out to us here at Climbing Business Journal. The full video can be watched on YouTube here.
1.Keeping it Real, Keeping it Local
Jon Hawk pointed out in the first conversation the impact of establishing this mission early on in the life of a climbing gym project―even before a gym is built. As this article on summer youth programs points out, transportation can be a barrier to access when someone can’t afford a car or public transportation is scarce. Instead, Memphis Rox situated its pay-as-you-can gym in the heart of its Soulsville community.
“A lot of the underserved communities don’t have the resources to even have a car, so how are they going to make it to the other side of the town?” said Jon Hawk, Director of Operations at Memphis Rox. “We were very intentional on building it in their neighborhood so they can walk here, they can get here, they can eat here, they can do everything that they want right here, and not have to have any other barriers or stress.”
That local focus and desire to be a neighborhood resource permeates multiple levels of operations at Memphis Rox, which has distributed supplies during COVID-19. Malik Martin, born and raised in South Memphis and working at the gym since 2018, emphasized the impact of conducting interpersonal outreach and recruiting and hiring local staff from within its community.
“If you walk into Memphis Rox, the vast majority of our staff comes from South Memphis and walks to work. That means we literally, intentionally set out to hire from the community,” said Martin. “A lot of times, doors are closed when you’re from my neighborhood. You don’t have a lot of opportunity…I started at the front desk at Memphis Rox and worked my way up [sic] and now I’m Director of Social Media. And none of that would have happened if it wasn’t for people like Jon who gave me a chance to even work there.”
Climb Malawi, a climbing facility in Lilongwe, Malawi―which like Memphis Rox aims to not turn anyone away based on ability to pay―takes a similar approach to expanding its reach. The organization arranges carpooling and minibus reimbursement through its Kuyenda Volunteer Program, and with the donation of The North Face plans to operate a shuttle bus to further reduce the barrier of transportation.
Tyler Algeo, a Canadian climber who founded Climb Malawi and lives in Malawi, mentioned other intentional ways the organization seeks to expand its reach: handing out flyers in the local community; bringing a portable wall to festivals; sharing climbing shoes with local youth when at the crags; and building a strong cohort of ambassadors from the local community to bridge other gaps like language.
Ed Nhlane, a Program Director at Climb Malawai, is one of those ambassadors that joined the live stream with pre-recorded video. Nhlane described some of the ways those intentional, interpersonal efforts have impacted the surrounding community, both people local to Malawi as well as foreigners.
“These interactions have transformed our community by breaking barriers and shaping our ideals: more learning and understanding for the local climber who is less traveled; more exposure and recreation for our host communities; and more culture and indigenous knowledge for the expert who is working in Malawi or is just visiting,” said Nhlane.
“It’s when you mix all these different people together that these ideas for new businesses, for new ways of viewing life and new ways of approaching challenges can really transform communities,” added Algeo.
3.Seeking Long-Term Solutions for Long-Term Struggles
Earlier this year, a wave of gyms, brands and athletes in the climbing industry took to social media to speak out against systemic racism and started tough conversations. In parallel, many businesses began or amplified efforts within their spheres of influence and reached out to organizations doing related work in the industry for help.
Summer Winston, co-founder of The Brown Ascenders―which works to “increase access, inclusion, and equity within the outdoor industry for Black, Indigenous, and People of Color communities,” according to its Instagram bio―described in the video how this response has been a double-edged sword.
“On some level it’s like, great, finally you’re saying something and bringing your voice to this conversation within your own communities. But on the other levels it’s incredibly frustrating…I get so angry because there’s been so much that has happened, just horrible things that have happened just in our generation of being alive and it’s been silence, silence, silence,” said Winston.
Erynne Gilpin, founder of Indigenous Womxn Climb―the Instagram bio of which reads, “To inspire. To Transform. To decolonize.”―also pointed out that these efforts can often wax and wane with the times.
“I see corporate, institutional social media responses as being quite sporadic. It kind of goes along with the trends,” said Gilpin. “I definitely had an increase of emails in my inbox throughout these past few months, and I kind of just sat back and watched them correlate with the hashtags.”
Instead, Gilpin emphasized a long-term approach to solving long-term struggles which span generations.
“We’ve experienced structural and systemic violence and oppression in ways that other communities have not had to hurdle over, again and again, intergenerationally,” said Gilpin. “It’s going to be about doing that real work to unpack what this means in terms of our institutions’ long-term commitment to unpacking our own internalized racism. And then we can allow that work to expand beyond, in a more meaningful, slower and intentional, and I think long-term (hopefully) and regenerative way.”
“By understanding the historical context as far back as you can, you almost gain a perspective and a vision into the future for how long it’s going to take to potentially heal that. That this isn’t just a moment in time or a single lifetime of work in any direction,” summarized Sam Elias, the moderator.
In addition, according to Winston some asks from businesses do not always have the best intentions behind them. Winston gave the example of requests which tokenize for the sake of showing diversity.
“We have no interest in being a brand token…We don’t just want to be one profiled story and some photos on their social media page,” said Winston. “We want to work with companies and brands, create relationships with the different entities that are willing to do the work in a real, sustainable way.”
That motif of relationship building was a common thread throughout the conversation. Whether at the crags or at the gyms, Winston and Gilpin identified a need for restoring relationships and systems.
“Without real relationship building, this work can’t really happen. And I think that’s why this work is so community-driven and community-based,” said Gilpin. “Because I would say diversity to what, and inclusion to where? I’m more interested in thinking about supporting spaces that are made by us and for us and that reflect and have our knowledge systems built into it and our value systems built into it.”
During the conversation, both Gilpin and Winston highlighted some of the benefits of this long-term work in the climbing industry.
“I think for a lot of people out there, they’re like, “Oh, it’s just climbing…” But that’s not how I see it, and it’s not how a lot of our community members see it. Climbing isn’t just climbing, said Winston. “It’s making an inlet for our community to have access to this sport that’s physically beneficial, mentally beneficial, emotionally beneficial. And then it also gives us a way to get back in touch with the land.”
In the final conversation on making gyms more accessible and inclusive, Paradox Sports Ambassador Maureen Beck discussed the need for welcoming gym environments in addition to physical accessibility. This is one of the things that Paradox Sports instructors work on with gyms.
“You can take a walk around your gym and know you could use a ramp there, or that it’s hard to fit a wheelchair through that space, or maybe somebody who’s blind would have a hard time navigating the bathroom on their own. It’s the welcoming part that really takes more intent and kind of more dedication and purpose. You can’t just check a box on a checklist and have a welcoming facility.”
However, there’s a balance to keep in mind when creating a welcoming space. Early in the conversation, Beck described how being over-the-top welcoming could have an opposite effect.
“I think what people don’t realize is that when they’re over-the-top welcoming, it’s almost pointing out the fact that you don’t belong there,” said Beck. “I always try to coach people, when working with people with disabilities, that if you’re cheering them on, make sure you’re not doing it in a way that’s any different than you would cheer on your buddy…We’re kind of trying to normalize the abnormal.”
When trying to strike the right balance, Beck showed how coming back to relationships and taking a human approach first can help.
“It wasn’t until I started hanging out with Paradox who’s irreverent, they make stump jokes, they laugh at each other when they fall off their wheelchairs, and they drink a lot of beer at the end of the day when it’s all done…It’s like we’re all humans first, and whatever other stuff we bring with us is there, that doesn’t just disappear, but taking that human approach first.”
Abby Dione, owner of Coral Cliffs in Florida, echoed many of these thoughts in the conversation with Beck and Elias, and attributed putting people first to literally enabling the gym to survive through this period. A recent Go Fund Me campaign raised $120,000 for the gym, with an average donation of $20.
“I think like with all things it’s in the doing, and it’s by leading by example…There are conversations that are had. However, modeling the behavior I would like my staff to engage in when someone walks through the door I have found to be the most effective,” said Dione. “Putting people first is the way to go. It might be the slow way, it might not have immediate returns, but that’s the way to go.”
Dione pointed out as well how diversifying the sport is not only needed in terms of numbers of climbers but at all levels of the industry―reiterating the need for long-term solutions and a human approach.
“I think that one of the ways that I see success taking shape is that I’m not the only black, queer woman in the United States to own a climbing gym. I would love to see more of me everywhere and at a variety of levels…There needs to be a certain level of consistency and humanity in this process. Numbers are important, they serve a purpose. But without the injection of that humanity, it doesn’t work long-term.
Finally, Dione noted how these principles can be applied to ourselves when undertaking this work.
“Do your best to try to do better, essentially. And in that process, my hope is that you learn. And when you will fall, because you will…that you get up and try again. Because that to me is what being a human is. And so if you are in a position of power in an organization, my hope is that you commit to that kind of process. I think it will be transformative for the climbing community on multiple levels.”
And no one is alone in this work. Despite the distancing and masks of this period, climbing gyms, brands, climbers and insiders from all over the world participated in Global Climbing Day again this year.
“Even though we weren’t able to connect physically, the goal still remains the same. Which is to celebrate the community we love, and the ways in which climbing can be a tool to create a more inclusive and equitable world,” concluded Elias.
Welcome to August Monthly Wrap in cooperation with Climbing Hold News Reviews where we will bring you the latest in climbing holds, macros and volumes. Odd enough, even though we aren’t quite to Halloween, a Bat hold theme emerged this month! We hope you love this as much as we do!
USA Climbing recently introduced its rulebook for the 2020-2021 competition season. “While this Rulebook version is being released during a global pandemic, the rules contained herein do not represent USA Climbing’s entire attempt to update or modify rules or practices in order to enhance the safety of any individual preparing for or attending a USA Climbing competition or to meet local, state, or federal requirements or recommendations,” states the rulebook’s Introduction. “USA Climbing expects that additional policies and rules may be released as required or prudent, and that those additional policies and rules will work in conjunction with, or possibly replace, the rules herein.”
This year’s edition of 