Kevin S. made the most of his upstairs space by utilizing the rafters and roof joists to support his multi-angle homewall. By using recycled materials, Kevin was able to keep his budget down while creating his ideal home training dojo in Lowell, MA. Check out past HWOW here.
When did you build your wall? Was it a COVID baby?
This wall started in Feburary 2019 when I reclaimed about 20 4×8 used wall panels from Boston Rock Gym, which was closing and in the process of demolition. I started building in July 2019.
How long did it take you to build and what did that time look like?
About 5 months. I built mostly nights and weekends from about mid-July (2019) to late November. I transformed it from a bare unfinished room to an insulated room, covered in panels and lights with a stereo and set routes. I’m still working on minor projects like the crack machine and some volumes.
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build? Any surprises there? Most/Least expensive part?
$850? Since a lot of the panels were free and came with T-Nuts, most of the cost came from buying insulation, screws, lights, wiring, and a few new tools. I have definitely made an effort to reclaim or reuse as many materials as possible. I’m still making volumes out of the scraps from the original panels.
What was your primary incentive for the wall? Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
We built the wall based off the framing of the house. When my wife and I bought our house, the upstairs room was completely unfinished and we both had grand ideas for the space. All of the panels are fixed directly to the wall studs, rafters and roof joists. There were a few obvious cracks we made out of some close together rafters and gaps. Those were a bonus when the panels started going up!
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Probably budgeting out all of the reclaimed panels to cover all the space. Some of the panels were damaged and some of the spaces were funky. In the end though, it all fit together perfectly (with only a few small gaps left).
What would you do differently?
If I were to do this differently, I would build in a 25 or 30-degree wall. As it stands, there is a long 45-degree wall with a 42″ kicker, a shorter similar 45 section, and a long 45 with a 18″ kicker, two vertical sections and a roof. It would be nice to have a less steep overhung option.
What is your favorite aspect?
Having a home wall is fantastic! Most sessions happen between 9pm and midnight when the kids are in bed and commercial gyms are closed. It’s awesome for the kids to climb on too. We put swings on bolts from the ceiling and sometimes even do a movie night with a projector and the speakers built in the ceiling.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Build it!… But beware it starts to take over your life! I’m always looking for new and used holds, so budget about half or more of your wall $$$ for these ongoing. Reclaim and reuse as much as you can from your local gyms and other sources.
Do you have any connection to climbing brands or gyms?
Yes, before COVID I would regularly go to 3 local gyms; Central Rock Gym Stoneham, Metrorock Littleton, and Vertical Dreams in Nashua, NH. It’s definitely important to still support your local gym when possible. That’s where the community is. The biggest thing my home gym doesn’t have right now is community.
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize like this (prizes vary each week):
Image courtesy of the Climbing Wall Association
The Climbing Wall Association (CWA) is currently looking for a Marketing Coordinator to “[assist] the Marketing & Communications Manager in the coordination of marketing programs and initiatives.” The job is based at CWA headquarters in Boulder, Colorado.
Responsibilities include coordinating a variety of marketing efforts, from the CWA blog to member and event campaigns. This person will also manage CWA social media platforms, according to the job listing on the CWA website. “Copywriting, one-off communications, website maintenance, market research, brand strategy, campaign strategy” were also mentioned in the job description.
The desired qualifications listed in the description include 1-3 years of experience in a related role, as well as excellent writing, marketing and communication skills. Applicants from a variety of backgrounds were encouraged to apply:
“We celebrate diversity and are committed to creating an inclusive environment for all employees. All qualified applicants will receive consideration for employment without regard to race, ethnicity, ancestry, color, national origin, religion or creed, sex, sexual orientation, gender, gender identity or expression, genetics, disability, age, veteran status or any other legally protected characteristic or class.”
The complete job description can be found on the CWA website here, along with instructions to apply. Businesses in the indoor climbing industry with a job to share may post a listing on the CBJ job board at any time. And those looking for a job who would like to share their resume can submit a listing in the CBJ marketplace.
Image courtesy of Edgeworks Climbing + Fitness / Stone Gardens
It was recently announced that Stone Gardens, a mainstay in the climbing gym scene in Washington’s Puget Sound area, has joined Edgeworks Climbing + Fitness. Altogether, the gyms offer more than 56,000 square feet of climbing surface at three locations and form what is reportedly “the largest single footprint of climbing gyms in the Puget Sound,” according to the announcement on the Stone Gardens and Edgeworks websites. Starting in November, a membership will grant climbers access to all three gyms.
Founded in 1995 by Keith Magnuson, Stone Gardens is among the earliest climbing gyms to open in the Pacific Northwest. After opening its first facility in Ballard (North Seattle)―which features over 17,500 square feet of climbing surface, a 45-foot lead roof and 40-foot outdoor wall―Stone Gardens added a second location in nearby Bellevue in 2011 with over 21,000 square feet of climbing terrain. After 25 years, Magnuson decided the time was right to sell the gyms and started looking for potential buyers.
“We started Stone Gardens in 1995 with help from the local climbing community and it grew from there,” said Magnuson. ”In 2011 we opened our second gym with the first Walltopia walls on the West Coast and one of the first to locate in a mall. We were in the process of starting our third gym when the virus hit, so we bailed on that after spending a substantial sum of money and I decided it was time for me to retire. Stone Gardens is now in the capable hands of Tod Bloxham and the Edgeworks Climbing + Fitness crew. I look forward to seeing this combination grow. As for me: It’s been a great ride and now all I have to do is avoid the old folks home.”
Edgeworks is located in Tacoma and was reportedly the first indoor climbing gym to open in the city when it was founded by Bloxham in 2004. Himself an AMGA/IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guide, Bloxham’s first location offers a wide array of outdoor climbing, guiding services, instruction, youth programs and fitness classes in addition to 17,000 square feet of indoor climbing. Also the former CEO of Rock Gym Pro before the key departures last Spring, as owner Bloxham will oversee all three gyms.
“At the start of the COVID pandemic, we had an intent of coming out of the pandemic stronger than we entered,” Bloxham told CBJ. “We have always looked to reinvest our efforts, growing and creating opportunities for our community and staff―this included commitments to our staff during our COVID closure, facility improvements and expansion, to program growth and development. The opportunity to acquire Stone Gardens definitely fits this category of growth that will put Edgeworks and Stone Gardens, our employees, and our community in a stronger position than we were before.”
A fixture for comps and climbers of all levels and ages, Kumiki’s EverActive wall is “probably the best thing in the gym” at Nature of the North, says climbing director Chris Deal.[Branded Content]
In mid-2019, the outdoor company Nature of the North was planning to open their first brick and mortar location with an indoor climbing wall. It would be the first commercial bouldering gym in the Fargo, ND-Moorhead, MN area. They didn’t have much space for a huge wall, but they wanted to create a place where climbers of all levels would have the chance to try out indoor climbing. They also wanted a wall that climbers could train on and customize the difficulty level to prepare for outdoor climbing. With typical bouldering walls, gym owners can design the wall with different angles and change the setting, but they can only put up so many routes until the wall is over-saturated and they can’t adjust the angle. Enter Kumiki Climbing’s EverActive® adjustable climbing wall.
Meet the EverActive Adjustable Climbing Wall
The EverActive climbing wall was the perfect complement to Nature of the North’s primary 800-square-foot Kumiki bouldering wall because it doesn’t take up too much extra space, but adds many more route possibilities. On the EverActive wall, Nature of the North installed the Kilter training board with LED light-up holds which now provides thousands of route combinations. Nature of the North could have also chosen a Moon Board or Tension Board, as they are also compatible with the EverActive climbing wall.
Kumiki’s EverActive wall is available in three different widths―8’, 12’, and 16’―and allows climbers to adjust the angle of the wall from 0 to 65 degrees so they can make the route as challenging or as beginner-friendly as they want. Nature of the North chose the 8-foot wall. “Having the EverActive Wall with the adjustable angle makes it feel like we have thousands of routes,” said Nature of the North climbing director Chris Deal.
Bouldering at Nature of the North, with the Kilter training board on Kumiki’s EverActive wall in the background.
The wall went up in early 2020. Deal said the installation process for the wall took all of a few hours and it was ready for holds. Now, according to Nature of the North, the gym has the only public Kilter board in all of Minnesota and North Dakota.
A Climbing Wall for All Levels and Ages
Since the EverActive wall went up at Nature of the North, it’s been dazzling everyone from experienced climbers to beginners and kids. The wall shifts to different angles smoothly and safely which makes using the training board a fun and accessible experience.
So far, Deal noted the main groups that use the wall are experienced climbers looking for a tough training session and kids or brand-new climbers who want to try something new. “[Kids] like to make their own routes on it. They like to set it [and] challenge each other at different angles,” said Deal. It’s also been a great way to help parents keep their kids interested in climbing because it offers an endless supply of new routes to try.
Climbing Competitions with the EverActive Wall
Along with training and everyday use, Nature of the North has been able to use the EverActive adjustable wall to help strengthen their community by hosting socially distanced climbing competitions on the board. On September 16, the gym had their first climbing competition in which they were able to use the EverActive wall.
Professional climber and St. Paul native Kyra Condie―one of the four American athletes qualified for the Tokyo Olympic Games―training on Kumiki’s EverActive wall.
Every participant chose their own routes to try at 0, 10, and 20 degrees and they recorded the top three completed routes at each angle. At that competition, the community welcomed and cheered on all the climbers at every level including two women climbing for the first time. Given COVID-19 restrictions, the gym didn’t allow any in-person spectators, but it live-streamed the event on Facebook so supporters could comment encouragements for competitors.
Bringing Climbing to Everyone
As the only commercial bouldering gym in the Fargo-Moorhead area, Nature of the North is able to introduce the joy of climbing to people who might have never tried it otherwise. Once in the door, the EverActive adjustable wall then ensures everyone can find routes that are fun and challenging regardless of skill level.
After seeing the EverActive wall in action and climbing on it over the past six months, Deal concluded it’s “probably the best thing in the gym.”
To add the next best thing to your climbing gym, check out Kumiki Climbing’s EverActive Walls.
This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
With so much going virtual lately, there’s no shortage of valuable articles, videos and podcasts being published online around the climbing industry. We highlight some of the major storylines from last week below. To get all the latest news in your inbox and before this roundup hits the web, sign-up for our weekly Insider newsletter here.
Photo by Daniel Gajda (@gajdaphotography)
Just a few thoughts…
Organizers have been working hard to get out the vote, and organizers in the climbing industry included. The American Alpine Club and the Access Fund both have voting resources on their websites, and gyms and climbers have been getting active as well. In the words of Tommy Caldwell, “Voting is definitely the low-hanging fruit.” This round especially feels important to not leave it hanging.
Content for Climbing Insiders
Send it to the Polls (American Alpine Club)“These last few months have highlighted what’s at stake this November. To protect each other, stand up for public lands, and fight for equitable climate action, every climber needs to make it to the polls this voting season.” – AAC
Podcast: Operating This Body is Dangerous(The Power Company)
“Brandon Belcher is an Atlanta based climber who loves slopers and cats and carefully chooses his words. Those words often carry an important impact – one that many of us need to better understand.” – The Power Company
The Night Climbers of Cambridge(Ronald Turnbull, UK Climbing)
“Closer to home, though, Cambridge does boast its own cliffs. Not of tuffs and lavas of the Ordovician period, but of more mixed stones no more than half a millennium old, forming the courtyards, chapels and libraries of the University.” – Ronald Turnbull
Pre-Order Route Setter Magazine #3(Vertical Life)
Gumby Academy(Owen Clarke, Rock & Ice)
Making Your Gym More Inclusive – Adaptive Climbing Edition(Holly Chen, CWA)
“Making climbing gyms accessible and inclusive for climbers with physical disabilities goes beyond having an adaptive climbing program. It’s a start, but here are some other things to consider.” – Holly Chen
Tier reducing capacity? Things to consider while we do our work(CICC)
“It’s possible that the United States (and the rest of the world) is entering into a second wave of the pandemic. It is very wise to consider the real possibility of State ordered closures occurring during the Holiday season…” – CICC
Video: Q&A with USA Climbing CEO(USAC)
“We sit down with USA Climbing CEO Marc Norman for a live Q&A on the upcoming 2020-2021 season.” – USAC
CBJ Original Articles
Climbing Gyms Encourage Voting as Presidential Election Nears(John Burgman)
“Our climbing community is strong because folks participate in its existence, likewise for our country and democracy, irrespective of one’s climbing/political beliefs.” – Michael Cano
Blue Swan Boulders Opens in Colorado as Part of Creative Redevelopment(CBJ)
“Looking at the available markets in the US, I knew that Florida was one of the only areas of the country where there wasn’t significant building happening of modern climbing gyms.” – Dean Privett
Homewalls, Routesetting and Training Tips
Homewall of the Week 28: Clean, Simple Office Woodie in CT(CBJ)
“The main motivation for the wall was to keep climbing. My daughter and I started climbing about 1.5 year ago. With the gyms closed during pandemic, we wanted to stay strong and maintain progress.” – Alex K.
Video: Recipes for Routsetting with Kegan Minock(Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly
The Ultimate 28-Day At-Home Climbing Training Routine(Gripped)
“As many people are starting and leaving 14-day and 28-day quarantines for work, due to exposure or because of local restrictions, we believe this will become a good resource for climbers to stay motivated.” – Gripped
3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core (Alex Stiger, Training Beta)
“If you are wanting to strengthen your core to help you be a stronger climber we have to train those muscles differently than if we want a healthy, supportive core for our non-sport activities. Doing the same exercises over and over at the same intensity does not result in continual adaptations of the muscles we want to strengthen.” – Alex Stiger
Video: Climb HARDER – The Replica Method (Lattice Training)
“Replica building is a highly effective method for refining your movement, power and other physiological adaptations (+ psychology as well!) specific to your project.” – Lattice Training
To stay in shape during the pandemic, Alex K. transformed the guest bedroom into a home climbing wall for his whole family. The pre-built wall made their Woodbridge, CT, installation easy. Check out past HWOW here.
When did you build your wall? Was it a COVID baby?
We had the wall up in the middle of July 2020. It was definitely a COVID baby.
How long did it take you to build and what did that time look like?
I have a demanding full-time job and also have to look after young kids, so decided to buy pre-built panels and frame pieces. The pieces came in the first week of July, and it took about five hours over several nights to screw everything together.
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build? Any surprises there? Most/Least expensive part?
The wall costs $1,300. There was no surprise because we bought pre-built pieces, the Rocket Wall from Rockstar Volumes. I knew going in the costs would be higher than if I do everything myself, but that was difficult given the constraints and I was satisfied with the professional-quality parts.
What are you doing for padding?
A memory foam mattress. The climbing wall sits where the guest bed used to be, so naturally the mattress became the padding. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) for any future guest, they will have to sleep under the climbing wall.
What was your primary incentive for the wall? Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
The main motivation for the wall was to keep climbing. My daughter and I started climbing about 1.5 year ago. With the gyms closed during pandemic, we wanted to stay strong and maintain progress. With that goal in mind, we were fine with a simple wall at 30-degree overhang. Also, it was crucial for me that the wall is in a comfortable location, such that the kids and I would use it frequently. This was why we put it in the guest room inside the house.
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Honestly, one difficult aspect was to convince my spouse that we are getting rid of the guest room for a climbing wall! However, she was happy with the decision once she saw how excited the kids were on the wall.
What would you do differently?
So far, it’s working out very well and exactly as we expected.
Did you make any mistakes along the way or choose to re-do any aspects? If so, what?
Not in terms of the wall, but in terms of climbing hold selection. Because small holds are less expensive, we started with a lot of crimps and edges. However, those are straining on the fingers particularly after the pandemic hiatus. Gradually we are now filling out with more pinches and slopers to give it a good balance.
What is your favorite aspect?
My favorite aspect of the wall is that we have complete control over the routesetting. We love our home gym (Hi City Climb!), but it was a small gym and the bouldering routes were set for adults. Often times the kids could not try routes, not because of the difficulty per se, but because the holds were so far apart. At home, we set a spray wall, so the only limitation is their imagination. We have a rule now where if the kids design and complete a route, they get to name it, and it is a lot of fun.
How often do you use the wall? Do you think you’ll still use it as much when all of the gyms open back up?
I use the wall every other day. My kids use it almost every day. When we are ready to return to the gym, I envision the wall will still serve a purpose when I want to squeeze in a quick, intense training session.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
There is no need for a lot of space. Even a small wall can be fun and a great training tool.
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize like this (prizes vary each week):
Artist and Armadillo Boulders member David Alcantar (@davidmalcantar) jogs with the American flag every morning throughout San Antonio during early voting. “Our climbing community is strong because folks participate in its existence, likewise for our country and democracy, irrespective of one’s climbing/political beliefs,” says Armadillo Boulders’ co-owner Michael Cano. Photo courtesy of Korina Scanlon
During the U.S. presidential election in 2016, gear and clothing powerhouse Patagonia made headlines by temporarily closing its office and stores around the country in an effort to focus (and encourage would-be customers to focus) wholly on voting for the day. In essence, the aim of such a “big and bold campaign,” as Climbing magazine dubbed the mass closures, was to take the spotlight off of consumerism, clothing, and related matters and fasten everyone’s gaze instead to civic duty.
That company-wide initiative by Patagonia was not the first time that a prominent company within the climbing industry (and outdoor equipment sphere at large) overtly encouraged voting; but it did herald perhaps a new, more widespread wave of voter encouragement that seems to be cresting with the upcoming presidential election this year, in 2020.
For a few examples, consider that the American Alpine Club is in the midst of a #Votethecrag campaign on social media, and its website currently features a portal where users can register to vote. It is part of a larger digital palette that the American Alpine Club has labeled its “civic action center” online.
The Access Fund also has a section of its website devoted to the upcoming election—also featuring a form where users can check their voting status and locate nearby polling places. “Get key dates, steps, and facts about our election process,” the Access Fund’s website notes. “Learn where you can activate for the greatest impact.”
Beyond those organizations, a number of climbing gyms have also encouraged voting recently. Planet Rock, with facilities located in Ann Arbor and Madison Heights, Michigan, posted a message on its Instagram account promoting a voting tool from a nonprofit known as Protect Our Winters. “There has never been a more important election for people that enjoy the outdoors,” Planet Rock stated in the Instagram message.
To gain more insight about this swell of climbing businesses encouraging voting, CBJ reached out to San Antonio, Texas-based Armadillo Boulders. Two weeks ago, Armadillo Boulders invited customers to register to vote at the gym—thanks to a booth set up by the “non-partisan, nonprofit organization” MOVE Texas. One of Armadillo Boulders’ co-owners, Michael Cano, and its general manager, Korina Scanlon, answered some questions for us about where and how climbing gyms, community, and voting all intersect in 2020.
CBJ: MOVE Texas has actually set up booths at Armadillo Boulders a few times. Would you mind relaying to me how Move Texas first got involved with your gym and how the response from gym customers has been?
CANO: I reached out to a friend who pointed me in their direction. At that time in our nation, we were (and still are) in the midst of racial, economic and pandemic chaos. We felt a little helpless, but quickly figured out concrete things we could do that would last longer than an Instagram post. If we worked to get a few people to vote and participate in our democracy, the effort will have been worth it.
CBJ: MOVE Texas states bluntly that it is a “nonpartisan, nonprofit, grassroots organization.” And obviously voting is a good thing. But still, voting is related to politics—and peoples’ emotions can sometimes be heightened because of that. (There’s that old potential refrain: “I come to the gym to forget about politics!”) So, was there ever any moment of pause on your end about bringing in a booth related to voting? Did you prepare for pushback?
CANO: I had no fear of kickback from the community since we are supporting a constitutional right for every American. The sincerity of our collaboration with MOVE Texas is further exemplified by the fact that we emphasize the word “vote” without the blue or red following it. Our San Antonio climbing community is strong because folks participate in its existence, likewise for our country and democracy, irrespective of one’s climbing/political beliefs.
The MOVE Texas booth at Armadillo Boulders helping customers become registered to vote ahead of the upcoming presidential election. Photo courtesy of Armadillo Boulders
CBJ: Some other gyms around the country have had voting-related booths set up recently—or at least been openly encouraging people to get out and vote. I’ve never really seen anything like it to this degree…so many gyms encouraging voting. Obviously this is a very charged presidential election, but do you think there are other factors contributing to many gyms getting in on the voting promotion this year/election, in particular?
CANO: Yes, I think there are other factors contributing to gyms chipping in on the voting promotion. But mostly, it’s another aspect of how the climbing gym industry is evolving. I think many gym owners are doing an incredible job at leading our industry and their community as it navigates through this “charged” time.
SCANLON: When we reopened in June 2020, we were excited but also knew it’d be difficult to throw any big events like we had in the past. We strive to be a beacon of positivity for our community, and encouraging people to get their voice heard seemed like a great way to bring people together again.
CBJ: When the topic of climbers and voting has come up in previous elections, it’s often in relation to climbers’ potential political influence for outdoor access…battles over public lands and whatnot. But the climbing industry is increasingly seeing climbers who are solely indoor/gym climbers—they don’t climb outdoors at all, so those outdoor access battles (although still critical, of course) might not resonate as much. So what sort of votable issues do you find the gym climbers at Armadillo care about most?
SCANLON: In my experience, climbing communities consist of a variety of individuals with different priorities and goals. The thing that brings us all together is climbing and for some it’s the community aspect. We can’t say what the most votable issues are, but we’re happy to provide a space for people to talk about things and connect.
CBJ: Climbing magazine posed a question back during the 2016 presidential election: Do climbers have political influence? But I’ll spin that a different way: Does a climbing gym—as a community pillar—have a responsibility to promote and encourage voting?
CANO: One of our core values at Armadillo is stewardship. It is tricky to define and even trickier to implement. Like most local gyms, we strive to build and support our climbing community by hosting competitions and throwing parties. But more importantly we try to facilitate opportunities for our community to participate in the creation of our community. We have member-hosted educational talks, book clubs, crag-development briefs, etc. In a larger sense, voting is the same exercise. At some point, the opportunity to vote becomes a duty/core value once you realize the binding commitment we have to our nation and fellow citizens. Working with MOVE Texas has just been an extension of that core value which guides our decisions.
CBJ. Can you give me some insight on other booths and/or community events planned at Armadillo for the future?
CANO: Since reopening with changed hours, we have been afforded time to host under-privileged/underserved communities. It’s not an event or booth, but it’s important to us.
SCANLON: We are excited to be hosting a USA Climbing youth competition along with a Citizens competition from November 2 to 15. Due to COVID-19, the competitions will span over two weeks to allow for more space/safety. Youth climbers from all around Texas will be coming to challenge themselves on our problems to possibly qualify for regional competitions, and our Citizens competition is open to the public for a fun, friendly competition. Both weekends during the competitions, we have invited local and climbing vendors to set up and interact with our community.
Operated by Scandinavian company Moments Climbing, Blue Swan Boulders opened in downtown Orlando in September as part of “The Creative Village” redevelopment. All photos courtesy of Blue Swan Boulders
Blue Swan Boulders
Orlando, Florida
Specs: 15,000-square-foot facility in downtown Orlando includes a training area and weightlifting equipment, in addition to multiple bouldering walls. The gym also has a café, although the café space is not currently open due to COVID-19 mitigation protocols.
Blue Swan Boulders is operated by a Scandinavian company, Moments Climbing, which operates three climbing gyms in Finland. Blue Swan Boulders is thus the company’s first American climbing gym. “Looking at the available markets in the US, I knew that Florida was one of the only areas of the country where there wasn’t significant building happening of modern climbing gyms,” says Dean Privett, Blue Swan’s owner and the former head of sales for Walltopia USA. “Of course, real estate plays a major factor and I got very lucky with the building I found. The landlord was actually cold-calling climbing gyms, trying to get them to come in as an operator in the space.”
In addition to multiple bouldering walls, the 15,000-square-foot facility also has a café that will open when the COVID-19 mitigation protocols allow.Design: Altline Studio
Walls: Walltopia
Flooring: Climbmat
CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro
Website: blueswanboulders.comInstagram: @blueswanboulders
In Their Words: “The part of town we went into is part of a whole redevelopment they’re calling The Creative Village—which is home to a downtown campus for the University of Central Florida and Valencia College. Our space was one of the only industrial buildings remaining in the Creative Village. So far it’s been really well-received.”
—Dean Privett, Blue Swan Bouldering Owner and Vice President of Moments Climbing USA
Over the course of 3 months, Chris May and Samantha Young sourced cheap materials to create a homewall with 13 feet of vertical climbing and 20 feet of traversing opportunity. They love to invite friends to their covered backyard setup in London, Ontario! Check out past HWOW here.
When did you build your wall? Was it a COVID baby?
Started mid-March and finished in late April. The higher outside wall section was added 2 months later in June. Yes it was.
How long did it take you to build and what did that time look like?
3 months total.
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build? Any surprises there? Most/Least expensive part?
It cost about $600-700 Canadian. The wood really added up quickly. We did use a mixture of ¾” OSB and plywood though. We found some cheap used plywood planks online and got 50% off the OSB from home depot because of their errors. The T-nuts were super cheap from a local fastener business at only 13-cents a piece!
What are you doing for padding?
We’re using a mixture of mattresses for the base, then on top of those, some memory foam, and on top of that, area rugs or closed cell foam to disperse energy. We found free mattresses and foam online. The only big cost was the vinyl wrap and that was about $350 CDN but worth every penny!
What was your primary incentive for the wall? Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
We love climbing and our gym was closed up. Also, we wanted to save money in the summers by climbing at home instead of paying 70 a month. Plus, we like to share with friends.
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Just the grunt work. Tedious. Also not peeving off the neighbours for over a month with power tools 😉 Luckily, I had a friend who is a general contractor help me with most of it (only cost me a few cases of beer and a few shawarmas).
What would you do differently?
We’d possibly just make it the height of the outside tall wall all the way around with no roof. So about 13 feet high with about 20 feet of left to right movement. (a few angles of course added on).
Did you make any mistakes along the way or choose to re-do any aspects? If so, what?
We used wrong paint colors (dark blue and grey). After a while decided to go all white. Much much better.
What is your favorite aspect?
Multiple angles to climb on. Lots of aretes (can be a good thing or bad thing….? rest spots?). I also like the climbing out of the cave to the top of the high wall section. It can make for very long routes.
How often do you use the wall? Do you think you’ll still use it as much when all of the gyms open back up?
2 to 3 times a week which is what we climb in the gym.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
Vision it completed. Mock it up if you have to. Is this the design you love for sure??
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize like this (prizes vary each week):
Image courtesy of USA Climbing
USA Climbing announced that CEO Marc Norman will be participating in a virtual/digital Q&A this coming Tuesday (October 20, 6-8pm MST). During the session, Norman will answer questions over Zoom from the climbing community at large.
In particular, Norman will give a live update about the upcoming 2020/2021 season—previously announced as a virtual season—and answer questions related to this year’s American competitive happenings.
Norman’s virtual Q&A will be free of charge. Anyone interested in participating or listening can register for the Q&A session here. USA Climbing is encouraging people to submit questions in advance through this email or through USA Climbing’s social media platforms.
For anyone unable to participate, the Q&A session will be recorded and shared by USA Climbing at a later date. Stay tuned to CBJ for more USA Climbing news this fall.
