This week’s HWOW was built before the coronavirus in Scottsdale, AZ. Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle needed a place to train and had this gem built – a serious home training space for a serious comp climber. Check out past HWOW here.
When did you begin building the SBC gym?
How long did it take to build?
It took about 3-4 weeks to build the wall.
What did those work days look like over the initial 3-4 weeks?
I wasn’t crazy involved with the physical labor of the build. I was in University at the time, so I was focusing on training and my classes. I paid friends from the gym to drill out the panels, then the majority of the labor switched to our family friend (Brad) putting the walls up in the gym. While we were reaching the end of the vert wall build, another family friend (Steve) who is a civil engineer joined the team to help with the slab, 5 degree, and adjustable wall build. My main help during this time was making lunch for everyone each day and paying them for their work. Except for Steve…he would only accept Swedish Fish as payment!
What were the training features you added on? Your favorite?
My favorite training feature I’ve added is the MoonBoard. It has helped me become so much stronger and is one of my favorite training tools.
Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build? Any surprises there?
The cost of wood/hardware for the initial build was $4,100. I’ve added some training tools since the initial build and the wood/hardware cost of those was $2,000.
What was your primary incentive for the wall? Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?
I have always loved the layout of The Front’s original gym (one singular bouldering wall). It looked so clean and utilized the space they had really well! It made more sense for me to create a “U” shape, but I was absolutely inspired by the simplicity of The Front.
What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?
Honestly none of the aspects were too difficult! The design/build was fairly easy and simple.
Do you set your own routes or have people come in to set?
For the first 3 years or so I didn’t set anything and would pay setters to come in. I still pay setters to come in, but I’m also much more comfortable setting myself. I love that having a home wall has helped me become a semi-decent (or at least I think I’m semi-decent) route setter.
What would you do differently?
I would have different padding. I made the mistake of getting loose padding instead of consistent/level padding. It would have been way easier to walk on, set on, and clean.
What is your favorite aspect?
My favorite aspect of the wall is my slab. It’s big so I’m able to do a lot of unique movements on it and never feel constrained.
If you could never train at another gym again, do you think your gym would properly prepare you for all of your comps?
With enough motivation and creativity on my end, I think my home gym would properly prepare me for all of the comps! I would like access to more… but I could make it work if I had to.
Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?
To the best of your abilities, do it right the first time. A home wall is too big of an investment and takes too much time to cut corners on any areas. Also… you will LOVE having a home wall!
Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize like this (varied prizes each week):
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