Climbing Insider News Weekly: Jun 18 2021

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Grip List 2021 Survey

Grip List 2021 Survey

Just a few thoughts

It’s that time of year! Summer is here, and so is our annual Grip List survey. This year’s is more exciting than ever, with a training board system vote to go with last year’s additions about homewalls, macros, and hangboards. Whether you set commercially or on homewalls, we want to hear about your favorite holds and volumes! ALL routesetters, please take the 2021 Grip List survey here.

Insider Stuff

Pride Hasn’t Always Been Easy – How I Learned to Accept Myself As A LGBTQ+ Climber (Campbell Harrison, Climbing)
“Queerness is not a deficit that I was unfortunate to be born with, it’s an asset that both sets me apart from the crowd and connects me to so many others. By embracing myself as both a gay man and an athlete I have the ability to assure young people, who may be feeling the apprehension that I did, that gay people are not only all around us, but we don’t have to hide who we are to get respect.” – Campbell Harrison

Projecting Anti-Racism – Your Gym’s Website and Community Values (Anaheed Saatchi, CWA)
“Today, I am still navigating life as a queer person of color, and the gym culture is not reflective of me. In working to change that, I’ve been advocating for better language and design on gym websites that can account for historically excluded communities – with action to back it up!” – Anaheed Saatchi

This New Climbing Board Game Will Test Your Skills (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)

 

Olympians & Tokyo Bound

Olympic prediction odds (8a.nu)
“Narasaki is predicted to win because he is on home turf and can challenge the Speed specialists. If he wins Speed it will be hard for Ondra or Schubert to catch him as they probably will be among the lowest ranked in Speed.” – 8a.nu

Video: Sport Climbing Makes Its Olympic Debut (NBC Boston)

Meet Aleksandra Miroslaw, Two-time Speed World Champion and Qualified Olympian (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“There are few Speed-focused climbers entering the Olympics, but it makes sense that if any Speed specialist could snag any Olympic ticket, it would be Miroslaw.” – Owen Clarke

Bassa Mawem Is A 36-Year-Old Dad and Is Competing In The Olympics. What’s Your Excuse? (Francis Sanzaro, Climbing)
“Bassa Mawem, 36, is the oldest climber on the Olympic roster…With his brother, the duo are the strongest set of kin going to Tokyo.” – Francis Sanzaro

Shauna Coxsey announces Post-Tokyo Retirement from Competitions (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
“I know that I have one fight left in me and despite so many unknowns it feels right to be putting everything I have left into such a special moment for our sport.” – Shauna Coxsey

Other Comp Beta

Video: North American Cup Series – SLC Finals (USA Climbing)

Highs and Lows – What you missed from the Salt Lake City North American Cup (John Burgman, Gym Climber)
“That is a degree of scrupulous training that has never before been employed so consistently at the national team level, and the recent high placements and depth of the Americans at the World Cups proves it is paying off.” – John Burgman

Q&A with Emma Hunt, The Fastest Female Climber in the U.S. (Delaney Miller, Gym Climber)
“I feel like my mental game is probably my biggest strength right now. Just being able to hone in on each lap and forget the one from before.” – Emma Hunt

Arc’Teryx Unveils New Climbing Uniforms for Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC)
“The black National Team uniforms will be used in World Cup competitions and the red and white competition uniforms will be used by Alannah Yip and Sean McColl at the Tokyo Olympic Games, where sport climbing will make its Olympic debut.”

Routesetting & Movement

Video: Setting a Tricky Slab (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

Video: The Godoffe method – Less shitty boulder problems! (BoulderamaTV)

Video: The World Class Tomoa Narasaki “Double Dyno” Basic Lesson (Tomoa/Akiyo/Ikedai)

Video: 3 Steps to Improve High Feet, Open Hip Mobility (Hooper’s Beta)

CBJ Originals

Ask a Setter: Skills to Learn on Day One (Louie Anderson)
“Setting can be a lot of fun and a great creative outlet, but it can also be a lot of hard work that can break you down over time. Learn to work well with your setting team. Listen to their advice and be quick to offer yours where it makes sense to do so.” – Louie Anderson

Wanted: Routesetter Opinions For Grip List 2021 Survey

CWA 2019 Report Offers New Insights Into Climbing Gym Businesses

CEC 2020 Annual Report Focuses on Long-Term Targets
“We did not waste any time feeling sorry for ourselves; we rolled up our sleeves and turned this crisis into multiple opportunities.” – Christiane Marceau