Climbing Insider News Weekly: July 8 2021

CBJ Insider
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

Olympic fever has taken over climbing. With the Summer Games beginning in just over two weeks, and climbing’s first full Olympic appearance beginning August 3rd, it’s time to get on the bandwagon. The athletes have spent years preparing for this moment, and organizers worked for decades pursuing Olympic inclusion. Covid delayed it a year, but now it’s looking pretty good that climbing will finally get it’s gold, silver and bronze medals.

Insider Stuff

Queer Fear – The Power Of Affinity Spaces In The Climbing Community (Lor Sabourin, Gym Climber)
“We decided that we wanted to learn about falling and risk management in an environment that felt safe…Since there weren’t any LGBTQ+ climbing spaces where we could do that, we decided to create our own.” – Warrior’s Way Clinic Participant

Setter Showdown is back and coming to InSPIRE Rock Sept 10-11 (Louie Anderson, Setter Showdown)

The Hive Climbing Gym Buys Cliffhanger in Vancouver (Gripped)


Villars World Cup & Comp Talk

Videos: Finals & Highlights from Villars IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup (IFSC)

IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021 (Nick Brown, UK Climbing)

Sean Bailey Wins Gold, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman Get Bronze at World Cup – On a Roll (John Burgman, Climbing)

Video: Sean Bailey’s Coach on USA’s Best Season Ever, Ending USA’s Lead Gold Drought, More (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

Olympics: Structure & History

The Idiot’s Guide to Olympic Climbing (John Burgman, Climbing)
“…climbing at this summer’s Olympics will feature three different types of climbing—three “disciplines,” to use climber lingo—but, again, the objective is broadly the same for each of them: move upwards on the climbing wall.” – John Burgman

Olympic Climbing Dictionary for Dummies (John Burgman, Climbing)

What does it take to become an Olympic climber? (Sam Laird, UK Climbing)
“How athletes deal with pressure or adapt to unexpected situations is crucial to success, regardless of the sport.” – Sam Laird

Video: How Skateboarding, Surfing, and Climbing Became Olympic Sports (Olympic Channel)

Video: A Brief History of Competition Climbing (EpicTV)

Olympics: The Athletes

Meet Olympic Teams USA, Japan, Slovenia, Czech Republic (John Burgman, Climbing)

Meet Olympic Teams Switzerland, Italy, Spain, China and Russia (John Burgman, Climbing)

Meet Olympic Teams South Korea, Australia, South Africa, Poland and Kazkhstan (John Burgman, Climbing)

Meet Olympic Teams Austria, Great Britain, Germany, France and Canada (John Burgman, Climbing)

Climbing Gym Management Series

Training: Strategy

Video: When to Walk Away – Strategic Quitting (The Power Company)

When to Walk Away – Strategic Quitting (Nathan Drolet, The Power Company)
“[People] will spend countless hours dreaming up how best to prepare for a climb, but they never consider what the circumstances should be for them to walk away from it. ” – Nathan Drolet

Never Fall Off Slopers Again – Expert Tips For Perfecting Compression Moves (Chris Schulte, Climbing)
“…there are a few basic techniques that can refine and upgrade your compression skills. Combine that with a confident mental approach, and you’ll be hugging your way up the blankest features out there.” – Chris Schulte

Wanna Get Instantly Better At Climbing? Here Is How (Andrew Bisharat, Gym Climber)

Training: Fingers & Backs

Ouch. You’ve Hurt Your Finger. Now What? Our Complete Guide To Finger Fixes. (Jeff Giddings PT, Climbing)

You Climb? You Are Going to Get Arthritis. Here’s What You Can Do About It. (Dr. Julian Saunders, Climbing)

Video: Thoracic Spine Mobility for Climbers (The Climbing Doctor)

Video: Let’s End the Climber’s Hunch Epidemic – How to Fix “Bad Posture” (Hooper’s Beta)

Training: More Wellness

Dr. Natalie Brown on Training and the Menstrual Cycle (Noah Walker, Gripped)

Drink From Climbing’s Fountain of Youth, Here’s How (Beth Bennett, Climbing)
“In active individuals like climbers, what changes with age is the ability to build muscle after consuming protein. ” – Beth Bennett

4 Common Fueling Pitfalls Climbers Make (Shaina Savoy, Trainingbeta)
“If you’re not taking into account your nutrition or fueling strategies, you’re overlooking a vital factor of your performance.” – Shaina Savoy

Climbing Gym Management Series