Climbing Insider News Weekly: July 16 2021

Photo by Ben Neilson @neilson.ben
Climbing Insider News Weekly: July 16 2021
Photo by Ben Neilson @neilson.ben

Just a few thoughts

USA has won more IFSC World Cup medals so far this season than any other team in Natalia Grossman, Sean Bailey, Emma Hunt and Olympians Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy. The long-awaited future made possible by the hard work of the athletes and countless others is now, and it couldn’t come at a better time with Tokyo right around the corner. Both the present and future are bright for USA comp climbing.

Insider Stuff

Coming Up For Air – When Climbing Isn’t The Only Battle (Delaney Miller and Mimi Nissan, Gym Climber)
“The hardest lesson in life is learning that you don’t have the control you think you do.” – Delaney Miller

Get Ready – More Permit and Reservations Systems are Likely Coming (Access Fund)

Climb too much? You mean not enough! Why we’re always “injured” (Andrew Bisharat, Gym Climber)
“When it comes to something as urgent as our own performance, climbers will tell themselves anything but the truth.” – Andrew Bisharat

Urgent PSA – Climbing is dangerous! (Bradley Carter, Evening Sends)
“There’s always more to learn about climbing systems. Begin by understanding the basics as deeply as you can.” – Bradley Carter


Chamonix World Cup

Stunning Results for North American’s in Finals (Noah Walker, Gripped)

Unreal – Another Gold for Sean Bailey, That’s Two In a Row (John Burgman, Climbing)

Sean Bailey and Laura Rogora Win Chamonix Lead World Cup (Gym Climber)

Only a Fool Would Count Out Sean Bailey (John Burgman, Climbing)
“…a royal seat is not the best representation of the comp scene’s growth in the United States, or Bailey’s crucial role in it. A more appropriate symbol is that of Bailey helping out at that local event, stoking other kids to work hard—hoping that they will someday get to the throne too.” – John Burgman

Watch: Youth Nats and Chamonix WC

Chamonix World Cup: Finals – Semi-finals – Highlights

Youth Bouldering Nationals Finals: FJR/MJR – FA/MA

Youth Lead/TR Nationals Finals: MC/MB – FC/FB

All USA Climbing Youth Nationals videos

More Comp Talk

The La Sportiva BMC British Bouldering Championships 2021 (Peter Burnside, BMC)

British Bouldering Championships 2021 Report (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)

Podcast: MC Pete Woods – World Cup Commentating (The Power Company)

Podcast: Allison Vest (The Nugget Climbing)

Olympic Commentary

How Did We Get Four Olympians? (Francis Sanzaro, Climbing)
“By every statistical projection that anyone could give us, going into 2019, we maybe at very low odds could qualify one athlete for the Games. Our odds of winning a medal were something like .001 percent.” – Meg Coyne

What Do Climbing, Surfing and Skateboarding Have in Common? (Francis Sanzaro,  Climbing)

Why Are So Many Olympians Getting Injured? (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)
“Every time I get injured and climb with the pain, I remember how wonderful it is to climb without anxiety or fear and how great it is to move your body freely.” – Miho Nonaka

Video: How is Sport Climbing going to change the Olympics? (IFSC)

Olympic Athletes

Video: Climber Kyra Condie Trains TIME’s Sean Gregory on New Olympic Event (TIME)

Anouck Jaubert – Qualified Olympian and Former Speed World Record Holder (Owen Clarke, Gym Climber)

Inside the Training Lab of Team USA (Francis Sanzaro, Climbing)
“While not all Team USA athletes live and train in Salt Lake City, it is quickly becoming the hub for current and aspiring American elite competition climbers.” – Francis Sanzaro

Routesetting Is a Craft

Inside the Pressure Cooker – World Cup Routesetting (Francis Sanzaro, Climbing)
“Coupled with being professional, hard-working, and being able to see the big picture, the best setters can be problem solvers, strong climbers, organized, funny, empathetic, reflective, motivating—there’s no model because no one routesetter makes a competition.” – Chris Danielson

Video: Homewall Routesetting – Good Feedback VS Bad Feedback (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

North American Cup Series Call for Setters Canada (CEC)


Training Tips

Should You Ice a Climbing Injury? (Dr. Lisa Erickson, Climbing)
“…icing helps with pain but it needs to be applied with conservative techniques, including compression, and with repeated applications to be most effective.” – Dr. Lisa Erickson

Unstuck It – How to Do a Move You Can’t Do (Neil Gresham, Climbing)

Stop Hurting Yourself. 15 Tips for Injury Free Bouldering (Neil Gresham, Climbing)
“It’s not just about warming up, but getting your tactics right and developing a feel for when to push and when to back off.” – Neil Gresham

Video: Why Does the Front of My Knee Hurt? How to Fix Anterior Knee Pain for Rock Climbers (Hooper’s Beta)

CBJ Originals

New Open-Air Gym in San Diego Will Be “100% Outdoors” (John Burgman)
“The idea of having an outdoor climbing gym concept in San Diego just made sense to me since the weather is nearly perfect year-round.” – Jordan Romig

How Dangerous Was the Milk Commercial Auto Belay Walk-Off?
“…I would never recommend anyone to climb an unknown structure, that high in the air, where your life is totally dependent on the stability of the structure and random equipment, as it was portrayed in the film. Even topping out over an auto belay – none of these things should be attempted under normal circumstances.” – Kai Lightner

HWOW 65: Second Wall Got Better Pads