Climbing Insider News Weekly: January 29

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Photo by Scott Rennak
Photo by Scott Rennak

Just a few thoughts

70% of setters responding to a 2019 survey cannot make a living from setting alone. This was before the pandemic. Setters, often the unsung heroes shaping our industry, still need your support. Gyms, tell your members how their dues keep setters working; and homewallers, consider investing in setting consults. Prioritizing setters is always a priority worth setting.

Breaking Barriers

Video: Hong Kong wheelchair climber Lai Chi-wai attempts to scale 320-meter skyscraper (South China Morning Post)

Paraclimber Solenne Piret Sends “Onde de Choc” (V8) in Fontainebleau (Keely Dickes, Rock & Ice)
“I don’t want to wait to send every grade before trying something really hard, because now I know that the grade doesn’t mean a lot for me. I just have to find boulders that fit with my disability, whatever the difficulty is.” – Solenne Piret

Supporting Deaf Climbers – How to Increase Access and Inclusion in the Climbing Community (Madeline Taub, Gym Climber)
“Once the hearing community and Deaf community partner, it’s deeper than just climbing. It’s cultural awareness, language acquisition, really A-Z on understanding different communities.” – Caitlin Mosholder

Competitions + Olympics

Video: Olympic Climbers – Alannah Yip (Albert Ok)
“Alannah Yip is Canada’s Female representative at the Olympic Games. Find out who she is, how she qualified and what it’ll take for her to win!” – Albert OK

Video: Simple Math Kills Chuffers (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)
“I want the best athletes to go to finals, and the most honest way to find the best climbers is to test them on as many different moves as possible.” – Tyler Norton

26th Annual Ouray Ice Festival Sees Thrilling Wins, Worldwide Reach (Rock & Ice)
“Over the years, the festival’s centerpiece competition has encompassed a variety of routes and climbing styles. But in all that time, there’s never been an event quite like this one.” – Rock & Ice

Hopes for Tokyo’s Summer Olympics Darken (Matthew Futterman, NYT)
“Thomas Bach, the president of the I.O.C., has said that postponing the Games again is not an option, and that if the event cannot take place this summer, it will not happen at all.” – Matthew Futterman

 

Routesetting Beta

Video: A routesetter showdown (Jeremiah Curtis & Aaron Stromberg, Stone Age Climbing Gym)

Video: Learn how to measure the bolts for climbing holds (Atomik Climbing Holds)

Video: Homewall Routesetting – How to Jib a Hold (Kegan Minock, DoughJo Setting)

What’s going on here? You’ll win stickers (Routesetting Institute)

Gym Manager Beta

Youth Development & COVID-19: Tips To Adapt Your Youth Programming (Heather Robinson)
“Just like summer vacation, the current COVID-19 restrictions may have caused a regression in the development of our athletes and youth in general…As coaches, it is important to recognize where each participant is in their current development and create opportunities to encourage social, cognitive, and emotional growth.” – Heather Robinson

Onward and Upward: Gym Owners Look Into 2021 (Jake Byk)
“Overall, our goal is to help make our gyms representative of our community at large. As with many gyms, overall we’re more white, male, young, and affluent than the city of Madison. Our new Climb for Community program is designed to help change this, creating pathways to participation and engagement across a broader, more intersectional spectrum of people, from all walks of life.” – Brad Werntz

CBJ Originals

USA Climbing Announces 2020 Awards (John Burgman)

Gravity Vault to Unveil Its First Bouldering-Focused Gym
“We view our facilities as community centers, rooting in the neighborhoods we build in and bringing people together from young and old, novice to expert climbers alike. We thrive where people can come together and climb and help one another reach new heights and then go out and enjoy all that the area has to offer.” – Lucas Kovalcik

ArtLine: Innovative Grips by and for Artists
“The idea behind the [ArtLab] is to provide a dedicated space for the career development of setters and shapers, the artists making indoor climbing possible. Our collective intelligence and passion is so much stronger when we’re dreaming, sculpting and setting together.” – Brice Anziutti

HWOW 41: A Routesetter’s Backyard Homewall