Climbing Insider News Weekly: February 19


There’s no shortage of valuable articles, videos and podcasts being published online around the climbing industry. We highlight some of the major storylines from last week below. To get all the latest news in your inbox and before this roundup hits the web, sign-up for our weekly Insider newsletter here.

Climbing Insider News Weekly: Feb 19
Photo by Aaron Sprengeler, courtesy of The Spot

Just a few thoughts

The winter months are always a drag, and more so this year. Every inch of snow to shovel is another layer atop the disheveled heap of 2020. If you’re in a position to give back, maybe start with the basics, like food and clothing to those in need. As always, consider partnering with local organizations already doing this work. Remember, many problems are climbed before someone can climb the ones in your gym.

Stuff for Insiders

Panel Discussion – Is It Ever OK to use the N-Word? (Gym Climber)

The Perfect Hold – An Art of the Industry (Noah Walker, Gripped)
“If somebody gets hurt on their fourth day in the gym, they’ll probably stop rock climbing forever. We―setters and hold designers―have a big responsibility. That means we take what we do very seriously. It means we cancel holds if we think that they are dangerous or if we missed something about them. We really want to be doing as much as we can to help our customers succeed with their customers.” – Jackie Hueftle

Video: Allison Vest – Stranded in a Training Oasis (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)

Podcast: Kai Lightner (The Nugget)
“We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music.” – The Nugget

Routesetting + Home Training

5 Tips to Increase Motivation (Alex Stiger,
“That person you see as being more motivated than you is often just more skilled at being disciplined and might have a clearer plan than you do. You most likely have plenty of motivation, but you just don’t know what to be doing.” – Alex Stiger

Pushing Past Your Training Plateau (Neil Gresham, Gym Climber)
“Beating plateaus is not necessarily about training harder, but training in a more strategic way. The body adapts quickly to training stress and it’s vital to keep one step ahead and trick your system into improving.” – Neil Gresham


Video: Using Boulder Variations to Make the Most of Your Spray Wall (Power Company Climbing)

Videos: Home Climbing Wall – Listener Questions Part 1Part 2Part 3 (Power Company Climbing)
“In [Part 1], with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we discuss climate control hacks, the ideal home wall, warming up when you don’t have lots of jugs, getting holds, big holds on a small wall, jibs vs. heelhooks, and getting trapped into long sesssions. And there are 5 more parts!” – Power Company Climbing

CBJ Originals

Climbing For Change Opens First Round of Grants for BIPOC Individuals (Joe Robinson)
“We are incredibly excited to launch these programs and help increase diversity in the next generation of outdoor sports enthusiasts!” – Kai Lightner

“Climbing Wall Injury” Results in $1.4 Million Settlement
“…As CBJ’s legal analyst Jason Pill explored in a previous installment of Ask A Lawyer, facility liability waivers are not always lawsuit-proof and there are no guarantees that a gym’s waiver will hold up in all instances, depending on the circumstances surrounding the waiver and the accident.” – CBJ

A Farewell to 6 Gyms from the ‘90s (John Burgman)
“I say all that not to highlight what the 1990s lacked, but to affectionately frame how the decade—and the climbing facilities therein—aptly laid the groundwork. We could not have the vibrant 2000s, which continues to the present day, without the wondrous and pioneering 1990s. Gyms from the ‘90s deserve a certain reverence.” – John Burgman

HWOW 44: Living Room Homewall for the Kids