Climbing Insider News Weekly: December 26

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Photo by Cameron Maier @Bearcam
Climbing Insider News Weekly: December 26
Photo by Cameron Maier @Bearcam

Just a few thoughts

The word ‘joy’ seems out of sync this holiday season. So many rhythms have been disrupted, but maybe the ways the beat goes on can be a source of hope. Climbers from Australia and South Africa just qualified for the Olympics, gyms and brands continue to bring climbing to new places, and don’t forget the beat within yourself, every day. Like when climbing, staying mindful may help in finding the right balance.

Content for Climbing Insiders

Four More Athletes Qualify for 2020 Olympic Games (IFSC, Gym Climber)
“I had some pretty serious ups and down with my motivation. I nearly pulled out, because it was just too difficult…The thing that kept me going was What am I going to feel like the morning of the competition when I’m not there?” – Tom O’Halloran

Video: The Coach That Went From Waiting Tables to Coaching Champions – Kim Puccio (Albert Ok)
“If you do a Google search on Kim Puccio, you’re not going to find much about her. But Kim Puccio has produced some of the most talented climbers in American history…The mother of Alex Puccio wears many hats…but above all, she is a protector.” – Albert Ok

Rocky Recovery – When Climbing Can’t Save You (Megan Starich, Rock & Ice)
“But as much as climbing contributes to my recovery and enriches my experience as a human on this earth, the hard truth for me is this: I survived the sort of trauma that utterly breaks people, and climbing by itself isn’t a silver bullet for recovery.” – Megan Starich

Podcast: Alex Johnson part 2 (The Nugget)

News from the Crags

12 of the Most Inspiring Climbing Advocates of 2020 (Access Fund)
“The climbing advocacy movement is stronger than ever, with inspiring work happening every day, in every corner of the country. Here are some of our favorite climbing advocate stories from 2020.” – Access Fund

Someone Should (Pay To) Fix This Bolt – The Actual Cost of Re-Bolting (Dakota Walz, Climbing)
“Whether we’re pinching pennies or pulling out all the stops, we’re spending $100-$300 to update this one single-pitch route. Imagine how much it’d cost if it was time to replace the other ten classics at the crag.” – Dakota Walz

Crags of the Future (Access Fund)
“If you haven’t been climbing at the same area for decades, it can be hard to notice the problems as problems. Or the solutions as solutions. Here are some visuals to help you recognize an unsustainable situation versus a sustainable one.” – Access Fund

 

Homewalls + Routesetting + Training

New Holds for the Holidays: CHNR November Grips Wrap (Zachary Joseph, CBJ)

Small holds on colourful volumes is the future (8a.nu)
“It is always about finding a compromise, between forcing our route setting idea and keeping the gym look nice for the future.” – Jan Zbranek

The Performance Diet: Use Science to Improve Your Climbing (Rami Najjar, Gym Climber)
“My personal goal is to climb hard and progress my whole life. The lessons from these dietary do’s and don’ts can be summarized simply. Eat real foods, not supplements, and mostly plants.” – Rami Najjar

HWOW: Proper Spraywall in Germany (CBJ)

CBJ Original Articles

Ask a Lawyer: New COVID Standards for California Gyms (Jason Pill)

Utah to Host Multiple World Cups in 2021 (John Burgman)
“We are honored to host back-to-back IFSC World Cups in 2021. With reduced travel, this serves our international community of climbers well, and we are excited to host the world in our beautiful home of Salt Lake City.” – John Muse

New Elev8 Climbing + Fitness Gym Coming to the “Big Mitten” State
“…We aspire to have our top-tier climbing and fitness facility engage the area youth, be a healthy gathering space for families, promote inclusion and camaraderie, and act as the region’s hub for outdoor enthusiasts…” – Kevin Vlach

OnSite Charges onto Climbing Gym Design Scene
“We want to push the limits. I don’t want to say that we succeed or that we’re good at it. It’s only a vision…We’re pushing the boundaries and dreaming big, to stay one step ahead of the next step for climbing.” – Francis Larose