Climbing Insider News Weekly: April 16

Climbing Insider News Weekly: April 16
Photo by Luke Webster @lukewebstr

Just a few thoughts

It feels a bit like waking up after a long dream. 677 days and the Bouldering World Cup is finally back? USA Olympian climbers are doing press conferences ahead of Tokyo? Tickets are going on sale for the two World Cups in Salt Lake City? With vital safety measures in place, the events won’t be quite the same, but they will be worth the wait.

Comps & Olympics

Tokyo 2020 – 100 Days to Go (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)

Video: The Debrief – 2021 Bouldering Season Preview (Tyler Norton & John Burgman, Plastic Weekly)

How Competitions Taught Me the Heartbreak of Winning and the Joy of Defeat (Corey Buhay, Climbing)
“…all those people weren’t sitting in front of the livestream because they wanted to watch me perform. They just wanted to watch me have fun. I took a deep breath, tied in, took off my jacket, grinned at the camera, and did exactly that.” – Corey Buhay

Climber Colin Duffy on How School Going Virtual Has Helped Him Find Training Time for Olympics (Lindsay Kimble, People)
“Through these hard times I’ve been able to climb lots and also succeed academically. So, I’m fortunate enough to just be able to manage everything.” – Colin Duffy

Tips & Reminders

Wall Reopenings – Be a Better Climber (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
“Even having climbed all my life, I still always take it easy on my first few lead climb sessions of the season. It may feel like riding a bike, but just like the chain of my trusty machine, it gets a little rusty when it hasn’t been used in a while.” – Steve McClure

How to Assess Sandstone After Rain or Snow (Access Fund)

Climber Stupidly Bolts Routes Over Ancient Utah Petroglyphs (Gripped)
“As climbers, we need to be aware that it is illegal to climb on or near cultural resources like rock art panels and archaeological sites…Placing bolts and climbing by rock art sites is simply unacceptable.” – Stewart Green

Video: How To Break In Climbing Shoes: Fire, Ice & Water (EpicTV)

Trango Holds Pardners


CWA News & Beta

Notice of Supervision Requirements for Auto Belay Devices
“The CWA has been monitoring a recent lawsuit that reinforces the importance of reading and understanding manufacturer’s instructions for the use and operation of equipment in climbing gyms. The case, Vandivere vs. Vertical World is currently ongoing in Washington.” – CWA

Support the GYMS Act! Community Call on Apr 21

CWA Announces New Executive Director
“I am thrilled to join the CWA team and work to support the advancement of the indoor climbing industry. I know, first-hand, the power and potential of an industry built on community and I look forward to working together to tap into the passion that drives us forward each and every day.” – Paula Horwitz

Fingers & Training

A Lot of Words About Fingers (Nathan Drolet, The Power Company)
“Have you ever seen a route which looks like a hangboard? The muscle system in climbing is so complex, which means that your training needs to be extremely versatile…” – Dicki Korb

Tight Wrists and Fingers? Try This (Jess Malloy, Gym Climber)

Video: Board Session with Coach Jen and Molly Thompson-Smith (Lattice Training)

Video: Training Café #37 (Eric Hörst, Training4climbing)

CBJ Originals

Study Showing Chalk Reduces Virus By 99% Now Peer Reviewed
“This suggests that coronaviruses such as HCoV‐OC43 or SARS‐CoV‐2 are likely inactivated by climbing chalk, limiting the risk of potential fomite transmission…” – De Montfort University researchers

What We Learned from the American Climbers’ Olympic Press Conference (John Burgman)
“Even though the current Olympic momentum feels somewhat like a repeat of last year’s hype, it’s no less exciting, and in all likelihood the Tokyo Olympics will finally happen.” – John Burgman

New Florida Gym Introduces Many First-Timers to Climbing
“Glen St. Mary, Florida, is home to us and we wanted to bring something unique to Baker County—population of 33,000—to help families live more active and healthy lives.” – Jered Bearden

Walltopia Stories: A Virtual Exhibition
“Browse around and you’ll find out about a climbing wall in Israel that survived a terrorist attack, about how climbing changed the life of the Memphis community, and how Sherpas in the Himalayas learn to climb in the highest altitude gym…” – Walltopia

HWOW 52: Colorful Backyard Homewall

Vertical Solutions