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    Welcome to MyClimb!

    The goal of this article is to introduce the MyClimb app for climbers and MyClimb’s Climbing Gym Platform. Stay tuned for a series of articles with more in depth information on both the MyClimb app and MyClimb’s Climbing Gym Platform.

    What is MyClimb and How Did MyClimb Start?

    The MyClimb app is the brainchild of Bill Brooks, the founder of MyClimb. Bill started climbing when he was five years old and was instantly hooked. The idea for creating MyClimb was planted when Bill took a long cross country road trip in his truck, which was stuffed with trad, sport, ice gear and bouldering pads. The concept behind MyClimb is to track where you have been, what you have climbed and stay in touch with all of the climbers who you have met along the way!

    Climbers can log and track their indoor climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, traditional and ice climbing in the MyClimb app. MyClimb’s social features and climbing partner finder help build community around gyms and climbing areas as well as a global climbing community.

    Over the last three years, climbers from 97 countries have logged over 1 million climbs in 2,961 gyms, and 3,952 outdoor climbing areas. The MyClimb community has also forged friendships around the world with climbers sharing photos, giving updates on outdoor conditions, and sharing training tips and encouragement.

    What is MyClimb’s Climbing Gym Platform?

    MyClimb’s Climbing Gym Platform offers gyms a suite of tools to engage their members and tools to optimize and organize Route Setting Management.

    Analytics through the app assist in informing route setting decisions. Through the app, climbers can submit written feedback to route setters or vote on grade accuracy and the quality of the climbs. Route Setters can also track which climbs or areas of the gym are the most popular, as well as what grades people are actually climbing in your gym.

    To help create community, gyms can also run fun Challenges, as simple as who can do 100 climbs this month, to more complex events.

    Learn more about MyClimb’s Gym Platform and MyClimb at www.MyClimbgym.com

    Contact MyClimb:
    contact@myclimbapp.com

    Download MyClimb on the Apple App Store: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/myclimb/id925359604?mt=8

    Download MyClimb on Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.myclimb&hl=en

     


    This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

    Walltopia’s WICS – Time to Get Global

    The very first edition of a major global gathering in the climbing gym industry will be taking place this summer in Sofia, Bulgaria. The World Indoor Climbing Summit (WICS) is exclusively organized by Walltopia, and will be the first international conference and exhibition entirely focused on the business aspect of indoor climbing. Gym owners and industry professionals from over 15 different countries, including USA, Canada, UK, Austria, Switzerland, Germany, France, Italy, Malaysia, Australia, New Zealand, BeNeLux, Sweden, UAE, will get together to share experience and ideas, discuss hot topics and talk about the future of indoor climbing.

    INDUSTRY GROWTH

    Indoor climbing has evolved from a training activity for experienced climbers into a workout for a wide range of age and ability groups. For a mere 20 years climbing gyms have transformed from dusty dark shacks into spacious light facilities that also accommodate fitness areas, yoga studios, specialized kid zones, cafes, and retail areas. They serve a wider audience and attract more and more participants every year. Research shows that each year more than 1 million people climb for the first time, on a global scale*. The climbing industry has seen a steady growth of an average 10% for the US and Canada in the past 7 years alone, and that trend is expected to remain similar in 2018. The number of climbing gyms worldwide has increased by 50% since 2007.

    “At Walltopia, we’re witnessing a steady average growth of 45% in the number of projects we sign every year since 2012 with the impressive number of 53% more sqft climbing surface produced and built only for the last year,” says Ivaylo Krastev, COO at Walltopia.

    With such an incredible growth of the industry, it’s about the right time to start thinking global – to hear different opinions from different countries around the world, to exchange experience, face challenges and talk about the future of indoor climbing together. That is why the WICS conference program is planned to start with an open discussion about The Future of Indoor Climbing in which everyone will be welcome to join the talk and express their vision.

    MARKET DIVERSITY & POTENTIAL

    It’s a well-known fact that the most developed markets are North America and Western Europe – with the most saturated parts of them being the places that have traditions in alpinism and rock climbing. However, in recent years indoor climbing has been gaining popularity in places that have zero outdoor climbing features within a radius of hundreds of miles. Many young winning competitors now originate from places that don’t have an outdoor climbing scene. Areas like Illinois and Texas are opening facilities of 25 000 sqft. “Over 50% of our clients have never been outdoor climbing on a real rock and they have no interest in that,” shares Jeffery Bowling, Business Development Manager at Touchstone Climbing, who corners the market in California, operating 12 climbing facilities throughout the state. The potential of a given market does not relate to the presence of natural climbing features anymore but rather – on demographics. As long as there are active people who want to exercise in the area, then indoor climbing is a prospective business there. At WICS visitors will have the opportunity to learn the stories of climbing gyms operating in a great variety of different markets when it comes to climbing traditions, market maturity and target group diversity.

    THE IDEA

    The idea behind WICS emerged last summer during a small client gathering at Walltopia HQ with climbing gym experts from the US, UK, UAE and France with various backgrounds. The occasion triggered interesting and inspirational discussions about current problems, trends and business models in indoor climbing, as well as the direction in which the industry is headed, and what is to be expected in the coming years. After deeming the event a success and receiving great feedback from the gym owners who attended, the Walltopia team decided that it was time for the indoor climbing industry to have a bigger event on a global scale. We decided to bring professionals from different continents together to exchange ideas, experience and vision on the present and future of indoor climbing.

    “With the other main branch of Walltopia – active entertainment attractions targeting the amusement industry – we attend over 20 different summits and conferences and most of them are on a global scale. When it comes to climbing, there are only 3 events every year and all of them are focused on a local market. For us, being an international company that works with gym operators worldwide and aims to understand their needs and deliver the right product, it was natural to initiate the first global gathering of the industry.”, says Alexandra Hristova, Head of Marketing at Walltopia.

    THE ESSENCE

    WICS will consist of two main parts – conference programme and exhibition area. The conference will have a series of panels featuring climbing gym owners and professionals from around the globe who will share their views and ideas on the hottest topics concerning our community, in the form of open discussion rather than a one-man presentation. Get ready to hear and ask questions about everything from getting loans to the latest trends in climbing gym design. The conference’s entire schedule and list of confirmed speakers can be found on the event’s official website.

    Aside from the conference, WICS will host a small exhibition area where manufacturers and suppliers from the industry can showcase their latest products, and meet potential clients and partners. Attendees will also have the opportunity to host a presentation after applying online and receiving an approval for the topic. The event will have separate time slots for both the panel discussions and the exhibition every day, giving all exhibitors the opportunity to attend the conference, and preventing the panels from “stealing” any attention from the exhibit hall.

    THE PEOPLE

    Gym owners and industry experts from countries like USA, Australia, UK, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France, Belgium, Finland, Sweden, Latvia, Slovenia, UAE, Malaysia, New Zealand, Netherlands, Belgium and more have already secured their spot in the conference.

    THE CHERRY ON TOP

    Climbing at Walltopia Climbing & Fitness will be free for all attendees throughout the event. Besides that, after three days of business talk, the WICS team will loosen things up by hosting the rooftop party of the year at Walltopia HQ, close by the event center that will accommodate the conference. All visitors are invited to grab a drink, enjoy the sunset and then dance the night away! WICS will take place on June 7th till 9th in Sofia, Bulgaria.

    For more info and full agenda, visit the event website at https://climbingsummit.com/


    *Data based on waivers signed on the initial visit.

     


    This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

    USA Climbing CEO To Step Down

    Kynan Waggoner, the CEO of USA Climbing, has expressed his intention to step down by the end of calendar year 2018, giving the USAC Board of Directors sufficient time to identify a successor and to facilitate a smooth transition.

    “It has been an immense privilege to serve USA Climbing, and I am incredibly proud of what we have achieved in the last 12 years,” said Kynan. “We have experienced robust membership growth and are fortunate to have recently become a member of the Olympic family of NGBs. We continue to annually sanction and manage over 300 local, regional, divisional and national competitions at over 200 different climbing gyms and venues across the country. It has been tremendously gratifying to work with the USA Climbing community, including our staff, Board of Directors, members, volunteers, partner climbing facilities, and sponsors. After 12 years with USA Climbing, it is now time for me to move on.” – Kynan Waggoner

    Waggoner has seen from the inside every leadership change at USAC, starting in 2008 when their first official CEO, Anne-Worley Moelter, left the organization to start the Movement Climbing gym in Boulder, CO. The USAC Board then hired and had great hopes for Keith Ferguson, a former pro-rodeo executive and US Olympic Committee employee. Ferguson left in 2012, and after an extended period with no CEO, the Board brought in Mary-Claire Brennan a former marketing executive at the USOC. She was in the corner office for less than a year. Waggoner started his tenure as CEO in the summer of 2014

    The USAC Board is currently convening a search committee to identify Waggoner’s successor. This effort will be led by Greg Padovani, Sr, Chair of the USAC Nominating and Governance Committee (NGC). If you would like to be considered as a member of the search committee, please contact Greg at greg@usaclimbing.org.

    Central Rock Part of Historic Buffalo Development

    The Cooperage property, also known as the E&B Holmes Machinery Co., near Ohio Street. (John Hickey/News file photo)

    Central Rock will become a key tenet in an historic development in Buffalo, New York later this year. The Massachusetts climbing gym operator announced they will open a 21,000 square foot climbing facility along side a brewery, distillery and apartments in a former woodworking factory.

    “CRG is very excited to bring its proven expertise in creating world class climbing facilities to the Buffalo climbing community.  The facility will provide members with a modern climbing space that is open and community centric.  There will be a huge and open 45 ft. tall area with top rope, and leading climbing. The rope climbing area will be large enough to host more than 150 climbers at the same time. In addition, there will be over 300 linear feet of bouldering walls. Both areas will have all the features expected of a best in class climbing gym for beginners to advanced climbers. We will also have a kids specific climbing area that is ideal for hosting birthday parties and events of any kind.”

    Central Rock, the third largest gym developer in the US currently operates nine climbing facilities throughout the Northeast. This Buffalo facility marks the fourth gym that Central Rock has in development.

    The Buffalo News reported that the three-story, 21,000-square-foot building will have a distillery on the first floor and include 10 apartments on the upper two floors, with a mix of one- and two-bedroom units of about 1,000 to 1,200 square feet each. The building will stretch along Chicago Street to Mackinaw Street. Behind that will be the 40-foot tall rock-climbing gym.

    The Board approved the project. “With the rock-climbing, it’s really going to become more of a destination,” said a Buffalo city Planning Board member.

    Ellicott, the building’s developer bought the property early this month for $526,100, and plans to demolish two of the three structures that are beyond saving – the four-story Mill Building, dating to 1870, and the three-story Forge Building, dating to 1912.

    Construction will begin as soon as demolition is done. Officials hope to finish by the end of the summer or early fall.

    Jorgeson Hopes To Build In Santa Rosa

    Architecs rendering of the new Session Climbing. Photo: Press Democrat

    Superstar climber Kevin Jorgeson, whose 19-day ascent of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall captivated the world in 2015, is undertaking his next climbing challenge right in his hometown of Santa Rosa — building a state-of-the art climbing gym from the ground up.

    Jorgeson and his business partner, Mike Shaffer, have joined forces with a prominent developer to build a new multi-million-dollar facility called Session Climbing on what is now a vacant lot beside Highway 101.

    “We need something new to hold the next generation of climbers here in Sonoma County,” Jorgeson told the Press Democrat.

    There hasn’t been a new climbing facility in Sonoma County since Vertex Climbing Center opened in Santa Rosa (pop 175,000) in 1995, and the climbing community has been clamoring for a next-generation gym for years. Another pro-climber, Carlo Traversi had hopes of opening one of his two new gyms in Sonoma County but pulled out early this year. His Sacramento project is on pace to open later this spring.

    Vertex’s current owner, Gorden Cooley, said he’s been planning to move into a larger, more modern facility since 2012, announced plans late last month to relocate to a new undisclosed location downtown by next year.

    Jorgeson and Shaffer, who said their efforts to partner with Cooley didn’t pan out, said they’re moving forward on Session Climbing to deliver the climbing gym the community deserves. They’ve lined up investors, convinced Brad Baker, the former head of Codding Enterprises, to buy the land and develop the site, and have begun the permit approval process at the city.

    The pair convinced Baker to buy the land, which cost about $1 million, lease it back to them, develop the site and build the building. The structure, which features an alpine-themed exterior, has been designed by Santa Rosa-based Archilogix and will cost about $6 million, Baker said.

    New Owner for New Paltz

    Inside BC’s on a bustling night of bouldering. Photo: BC’s

    Change is afoot at the longtime climbing gym in New Paltz formerly known as The Inner Wall. Under new ownership by climber and routesetter Christopher Scott, the space has been transformed into “BC’s New Paltz Climbing Gym,” with the focus on the New Paltz rock climbing community.

    The Inner Wall opened in 1994 and has been the historic meeting place for Gunks climbers since. Now the space has been given a facelift, cleaned up and brightened up with fresh paint, and its climbing walls equipped with more inspiring routes that Scott plans to change up frequently to keep those core climbers interested. “The height in the space is limited, but it’s plenty tall as a bouldering facility. Climbers can work on different training techniques and enjoy a sense of community at the same time,” Scott told the Hudson Valley One.

    The name “BC” indicates the core values he has in his business plan – better climbing, better community – but also stand for a longtime nickname Chris Scott has had: “Big Chris.”

    Scotland Gym Closes Doors

    Inside Spireroxx.

    A far northern Scotland climbing gym closed its doors earlier this month due to mounting loses. Spireroxx opened in a former church in Elgin (pop: 23,000) nearly three years ago following an extensive £250,000 transformation project.

    Yesterday, Steven McIntosh, who supports owner Jo Maunder, explained a change of circumstances had prompted the decision.

    “Jo’s aim was always to keep it open as long as it was breaking even. Now her personal circumstances have changed, her parents live in Yorkshire and there are health issues there, so she’s been away a lot. It only broke even very rarely due to the high level of wages. The rates are also very high too – small businesses get no help, you’re on your own. It’s been very difficult. The staff have been excellent though, it’s not a reflection on them. It just isn’t cost-effective to keep it open,” McIntosh told The Press and Journal.

    Mr McIntosh believes there remains a possibility of climbing returning to the historic Moray Street building. “There hasn’t been a decision yet whether to sell it as a going concern or the entire building. The wall isn’t going to go anywhere, it’ll be fine in there for a few years,” he said.

    Up The Bloc Buys Joe Rockhead

    Up The Bloc announced the purchase of legendary Toronto climbing gym, Joe Rockhead in an open letter to the public.

    We are pleased to announce we have been able to come to an agreement with Bob Bergman and Sharon McCrindle Bergman for us to purchase Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym. The deal is effective February 1st.

    Luigi and a lot of the people involved at Up The Bloc all come from the Joe Rockhead’s circle so in a sense, this is the continuation of the story of Rockhead’s and the impact it has had on the Canadian climbing scene. Across the country you will find route-setters, gym owners and professional athletes who will name Joe Rockhead’s as a big influence on their careers.

    This comes at an important crossroads for both Jean-Marc and Luigi, who are both celebrating 20 years in the climbing industry. And all the more so for Luigi, who was hired part time at Joe Rockhead’s back in 1998, a job that shaped his career as he went on to start Friction handholds and Tour de Bloc Competition circuit, with the blessing and support of Bob and Sharon. So this purchase brings Luigi right back to his roots… and his routes…

    “I’m excited about the opportunity to continue the Rockhead’s legacy and carry it into the next generation. It’s the community that I grew up in, and I know so many people who’s lives, like mine, have been influenced by this place. I’m looking forward to seeing friendly faces, old and new.”

    For Jean-Marc de la Plante, this is his 5th facility in Canada and adds to the list: Allez Up Montreal, Seven Bays Halifax, Up The Bloc in Mississauga and BoulderHouse in Victoria.

    “I’ve always been a big fan of Joe Rockhead’s even if I had never climbed there until later on. I loved the iconic self-deprecating ads, that to me showed so much confidence in what they were doing and was exactly the type of humor and spirit that I loved about the climbing industry and that you don’t see anymore.

    As an owner at Allez Up in Montreal, Rockhead’s influence on the industry was felt in two ways. The first was their competitive team in the mid-2000’s. In those days just having a team and uniforms was intimidating enough, but the team was stacked and dominated the podiums. Their presence on the Tour de Bloc circuit greatly influenced how we prepared and route-set for events at Allez UP, and forced us to up our game. The second was when we hired one of their long time setters Tammer El-Sheikh when he moved to montreal for school. His influence on the setting of routes was instrumental in refining the Allez UP product, and delivering the Rockhead’s style of routes which I would describe as technical with a focus on precise footwork and perfect sequences.”

    Our plan is to honor the Joe Rockhead’s brand and culture by breathing new investment, energy and love into the facility. The facility needs updating, but the core values need to remain.

    We take control of the operations as of February 1st, and have an immediate plan to re-invigorate the gym, and some bigger renovations planned in the coming months. The gym will continue to offer top-roping, leading and bouldering.
    There will be opportunities for dual memberships between Up The Bloc and Joe Rockhead’s available as of February 1st that you will be able to purchase at both locations and online.

    Sincerely,
    Luigi Montilla & Jean-Marc de la Plante