Asana Climbing
Kilter Board
More
    Home Blog Page 125

    Climbing Gyms Use Social Media to Show Support for Protests

    Climbing gyms support protests on social media, where many people are displaying this Black Lives Matter image as their profile picture.
    Image by Black Lives Matter

    A number of climbing gyms have taken to social media to express support and solidarity for the most recent nationwide protests against systemic racism and police brutality.

    On February 23rd, Ahmaud Arbery was killed by a former police officer while jogging in his neighborhood in Brunswick, Georgia. Breonna Taylor, an EMT, was killed on March 13th after officers forced their way inside her home in Louisville, Kentucky. Most recently, George Floyd was killed by a police officer in Minneapolis on May 25th.

    These events―and many others―have sparked ongoing unrest in major cities and metropolitan areas around the United States. Protests have also been taking place in Toronto, Berlin, Copenhagen, London and other places around the world.

    View this post on Instagram

    What happened to George Floyd (and countless others) is wrong. Many of us may not fully understand or have experienced something like this and maybe even feel a bit helpless.  Don’t. We need to support the differences that make us stronger as a community. Use your voice, amplify each other’s voices, and VOTE to be part of the solution. Share your feelings, your resources, and solutions on our platforms and ask EVERYONE to learn more about their local and our national elections. Need a place to start? Check out Whatmatters2020.com Joincampaignzero.org We have a lot of work to do, join us. #whatmatters2020 #campaignzero #blacklivesmatter #saytheirnames #georgefloyd #sandrabland #seanreed #tamirrice #oscargrant #michaelbrown #stephonclark #danteparker #walterscott #anthonybaez #ahmaudarbery #breonnataylor #philandocastile #samueldubose #ericgarner

    A post shared by Planet Granite (@planetgranite) on

    A Wave of Climbing Gyms Showing Support

    On Sunday, May 31st, Planet Granite posted a message that read in part, “What happened to George Floyd (and countless others) is wrong. Many of us may not fully understand or have experienced something like this and maybe even feel a bit helpless. Don’t. We need to support the differences that make us stronger as a community.”

    The post was soon shared by regional Planet Granite Instagram accounts, including Planet Granite Santa Clara, Planet Granite San Francisco and Planet Granite Portland.

    The same message was also shared on the Instagram accounts of Earth Treks and Movement Climbing + Fitness. Earth Treks, Movement and Planet Granite all share the same parent company.

    On the same day, Edgeworks Climbing in Tacoma, Washington, posted a message that stated, “We stand in solidarity with those speaking out against systematic racism in our country, demanding justice and change.”

    A wave of climbing gyms showing their support has poured in this week. The Cliffs at LIC, a gym based in the New York City metro area, reposted a message from the nonprofit organization known as the Outdoor Alliance. The message stated: “Recent events, including Ahmaud Arbery being murdered while he was out for a jog, and Christian Cooper being threatened while birdwatching in Central Park, are the latest in a long and shameful string of injustices toward Indigenous, black, and brown individuals outdoors.”

    In Colorado, The Spot shared a quote from Barack Obama on Facebook alongside a picture of the memorial site for George Floyd. In Indiana, Hoosier Heights called out racism and hatred in general: “We at Hoosier Heights stand in solidarity with the Black community as we work together to create a more just and equitable society. Racism and hatred have no place in climbing or in our community.”

    In New Orleans, the New Orleans Boulder Lounge cancelled all 6pm and 8pm climbing sessions this week and urged climbers to attend the demonstrations instead: “We realize that these changes may cause you inconvenience or annoyance. We hope you understand that these things pale in comparison to the harms of white supremacy and police brutality.”

    View this post on Instagram

    Members, We at NOBL have decided that it's more important to stand in solidarity with the anti-racist organizing happening this week than to continue with our current re-opening schedule. We are cancelling all 6pm and 8pm climbing sessions for the rest of the week and are urging you and our climbing community to attend the demonstrations organized by @neworleansworkersgroup instead. Please follow their social media for more information about these events. We realize that these changes may cause you inconvenience or annoyance. We hope you understand that these things pale in comparison to the harms of white supremacy and police brutality. Appreciate yall, Your friends at NOBL #blacklivesmatter #justiceforgeorgefloyd #nojusticenopeace

    A post shared by New Orleans Boulder Lounge (@climbnobl) on

    Multiple Gyms Encourage Donations

    Multiple climbing gyms have been encouraging donations to social justice organizations. Summit Climbing, which operates seven gyms in the Dallas-Fort Worth and Oklahoma City areas, announced that all locations will be holding fundraisers for Color of Change, “a progressive nonprofit civil rights advocacy organization.” Summit posted on its Instagram account: “Our country is hurting right now. Our cities, our communities, are hurting right now. We want you to know that we see you, and we stand in solidarity with you. We will not be silent. We will fight racism and injustice with you. We want to hear you, to learn with you, to champion you.”

    Oso Climbing Gym, also in Dallas, posted a message that read, “Fear, injustice and violence are facts of life for black Americans. Things must change, and we stand in solidarity with you.” Oso announced that it will exchange day passes for donation receipts this week; customers who show donation receipts on June 5th will be allowed to climb at the gym for free that day. A message on Oso’s Instagram account announcing the initiative specifically recommended a number of organizations for donations, including Color of Change, Black Youth Project 100 and The Sentencing Project.

    Also in Texas, Austin-based Crux Climbing Center announced they are matching donations to several groups through June 3rd. “As a business built on community, we cannot be silent when a part of our community suffers. We have a responsibility to not only speak up, but to take action,” reads their post, which includes links to Black Lives Matter, Campaign Zero, NAACP and Austin Justice Coalition for donations.

    Boulder Rock Club shared a donation link to Black Lives Matter, which was “founded in 2013 in response to the acquittal of Trayvon Martin’s murderer,” according to the organization’s website. Boulder Rock Club’s post on Instagram stated: “Black Lives Matter. The Boulder Rock Club supports our Black members, guests, community members and climbers. We condemn all forms and acts of racism and discrimination.”

    In Portland, Oregon, The Circuit also encouraged donations to Black Lives Matter, as well as Black Visions Collective, Reclaim the Block, and the Portland branch and Legal Defense Fund of the NAACP. An Instagram post read: “We are heartbroken + angered by the continued injustices against black lives in our city, in our state, and in our country.”

    Nosotros, a nonprofit climbing gym in Cleveland, began selling t-shirts in order to raise proceeds for the George Floyd Memorial Fund: “Was Floyd’s asphyxiation wrong? Absolutely. Does racial injustice need to suffocate? Undeniably. Will broken windows result in change? Hopefully. Should Nosotros try to help? Immediately.”

    Brands Point Out Broken Systems

    Several climbing brands have also been posting messages on social media. A message from Organic Climbing read in part, “As Minnesota natives, we watched our old stomping grounds burn and witnessed our country’s raw pain laid bare…The deaths of George Floyd, Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and an outrageous number of others, including last year, Osaze Osagie in our Pennsylvania town, expose the deeply broken systems and institutions in our country.”

    Tension Climbing emphasized in an Instagram post the long history of racism in America preceding the protests: “It’s important to understand that this is coming 400yrs too late. Our country is and has been denying basic human rights to Black, Indigenous, and People of Color (BIPOC), and we must stand in solidarity against White Supremacy, Systemic Racism, and Police Brutality.”

    View this post on Instagram

    Silence is not an option. Posting on Instagram is not enough. It’s important to understand that this is coming 400yrs too late. Our country is and has been denying basic human rights to Black, Indigenous, and People of Color (BIPOC), and we must stand in solidarity against White Supremacy, Systemic Racism, and Police Brutality. We’re committed to protesting, voting, donating, listening to and elevating BIPOC voices, and creating short-term and long-term goals within our company to make sure we’re doing what we can to support the changes needed in our country and our industry. Please reach out to us directly if you see areas where we can improve. We encourage all those in our community to use your platform to show support, but make sure you’re continuing the conversation in real life and turning that into real action. People's lives are not a trend.

    A post shared by Tension Climbing (@tensionclimbing) on

    An Instagram post from The North Face stated, “We know and acknowledge that for too long, racism has made the world unequal and unsafe. We recognize the pain and suffering racism has caused and are making a commitment to be part of the solution. We are standing up, because we owe it to everyone affected, ourselves and you.”

    Professional Athletes Speak Out

    A number of elite American climbers have been using their personal social media accounts as platforms for public messaging on the topics of Floyd’s death, racism and social justice. Those who released messages on Instagram, either as posts or stories, included Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Kyra Condie, Margo Hayes, Alex Johnson, Kai Lightner, Daniel Woods and Ashima Shiraishi. Shiraishi, using the hashtags #blacklivesmatter and #nojusticenopeace, listed several organizations for donations, including Black Lives Matter, Reclaim the Block, Brooklyn Community Bail Fund and Black Visions Collective.

    It’s a New World: Behind the Desk with Michael Feinberg

    Behind the Desk…is a series that interviews people who are part of the climbing industry—those who run companies, manage staff, create innovative new products, and own gyms. While some gyms have reopened, other gyms, including Reach Climbing in Philadelphia, remain temporarily closed during the Coronavirus (COVID-19) crisis. So, CBJ reached out to the owner of Reach Climbing, Michael Feinberg, to talk about the ongoing pandemic and get some details about creative ways Reach is keeping members engaged.

    Behind the Desk with Michael Feinberg, pictured here at Reach Climbing
    Michael Feinberg, owner of Reach Climbing. All photos courtesy of Reach Climbing

    Name: Michael Feinberg
    Title: Owner, Reach Climbing
    Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

    CBJ: Can you frame this pandemic a bit by explaining specifically how it has affected Reach Climbing?

    FEINBERG: As a young gym, the pandemic has put us in a difficult position to say the least. We have been closed since March 15, and next week will be Reach’s first anniversary. We had so much momentum with building a growing community and staff. It’s tough to see something like this stop our progress. We have been able to retain all full-time employees through the lockdown, but unfortunately we had to let the part-time staff go. The decision was really difficult, but there was no way to keep everyone on. At this point we are looking for a light at the end of the tunnel.

    Our area of Pennsylvania continues to be under a stay-at-home order through early June. It is unlikely gyms will be allowed to open when that is lifted. The most difficult thing is not knowing when it will end. The feeling is really frustration over the uncertainty of state regulations and their impact on our future. All that being said, the community has been amazing: laid-off staff asking how they can help, members contributing any way they can, etc. That part has been really uplifting.

    TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel

     

    CBJ: Speaking of staff, how does a gym owner deal with the team in a time like this?

    FEINBERG: There was the initial shock of the closure and getting past the layoffs. Nothing is harder than having to let people go—even if the intention is to eventually hire them back. Those that remained bonded in a way I hadn’t seen in almost a year of them working together. We also had to pivot dramatically to the needs of the community. Job descriptions went out the window as the staff was pushed into creating online content and researching safety protocols.

    Our goal during the closure is simple: Keep the community engaged and try to provide value. We did this by continuing our fitness class schedule online, providing physical therapy/recovery videos, training routines for members, interviews with local climbing leaders, humorous parody videos. Here is a great example. The staff had to turn into interviewers, editors, and online gurus. It’s a new world, but I am proud of the work they have done.

    A poster of Drive-In Movie Night discussed in this Behind the Desk with Michael Fienberg
    Drive-In Movie Night, one of the creative ways that Reach is keeping members stoked.

    CBJ: Your Gym is doing a Drive-In Movie Night to engage the community but still adhere to social distancing. I’ve never heard of a gym doing a drive-in before. Where did that idea come from?

    FEINBERG: We wanted to do something special for our anniversary. Our staff was brainstorming and our Director of Routesetting brought the idea. We really wanted to engage the community and safely bring people together. We are hanging a 20-foot screen in our parking lot and allowing up to 40 cars to attend. The response has been amazing. All attendees will be given a Reach-branded mask, drink Koozie, and have the option to purchase new shirts designed from a recent online contest.

    CBJ: What’s your gut feeling about the future of the indoor scene…all these gyms reopening with limited capacity and spread out routes? Is this what indoor climbing will now look like in perpetuity?

    FEINBERG: I hope not, but that’s the way it looks for the foreseeable future. We are all looking toward those gyms that are fortunate enough to reopen to see what works and what doesn’t work. Reach is positioned well, at least in the sense that we are a modern, open gym; excess space was built into the design for comfort. We have much more room than some of the older or more cramped bouldering gyms. This gives us some comfort, but at the end of the day climbing is a social sport. Gyms are social—interaction and community are encouraged. There will always be demand from existing climbers, but the sport can’t grow under these conditions.

    The Reach Climbing facility, viewed from the parking lot outside
    Reach Climbing is temporarily closed, but ready to reopen when the time comes.

    CBJ: Something that is not getting talked about a lot with these reopening protocols is how youth teams will be impacted. I’d enjoy hearing your thoughts on this as it relates to your gym.

    FEINBERG: We have spent a lot of time thinking about this. We were scheduled to host the USA Climbing Youth Sport and Speed National Championships for a second time this July, which unfortunately was called off last week. I am a product of the youth climbing system and kids programming has always been a priority for us. From the beginning of the closure we’ve maintained our team practice schedule. All practices are done through Zoom with the head coach three times a week. We feel this is worthwhile for a number of reasons. The kids keep up a level of fitness during quarantine, the camaraderie of the team is maintained, and the parents are relieved of duty during this time (as a parent with daycare closed, for me this would be huge). In this way we hope to be keeping the team together.

    The challenge will be how the initial in-person practices will be structured. Groups will likely need to be limited. We are also fortunate in that one of our expansion projects is a youth-specific training facility located next to our main gym. This will allow further spread of our user base and relieve pressure in the principal facility.

    Share your story

    Are you leading a climbing gym or brand through this unprecedented period? Or, do you work in the industry and have a story that others could benefit from hearing? If so, please contact us and tell us about it.

    Ask A Lawyer: COVID-19 and Liability

    Ask A Lawyer is a recurring column where attorney Jason Pill answers questions submitted by people who work in the climbing industry. Got a legal question that you’d like him to tackle about your gym, your employees, or anything else in the wide world of climbing? Submit your legal question here.

    COVID-19 and Liability for Climbing Gyms: Ask a Lawyer with Jason Pill

    QUESTION: “As a gym owner, do I have to worry about an employee suing me (or filing for workers’ comp) for allegedly catching COVID-19 at the gym?”

    PILL: Absolutely—there is no way around these risks.

    In addition to the risk of lawsuits brought by your customers (see the cruise lines, for example), your gym also must worry about claims by your employees as they return to work after weeks of government-mandated lockdowns. Lawsuits already are being filed against employers related to COVID-19 and the number of claims is expected to rise significantly in the coming months. Unfortunately, climbing gyms will not be immune from these legal risks.

    Public health officials have warned that employees returning to work will likely increase their risk of exposure to COVID-19, and it’s anticipated that some employees who become infected with COVID-19 after returning to work will ultimately blame their employer (including gyms) for contracting the virus. At that point, regardless of the merits, an employee can file a workers’ comp claim or lawsuit against the employer seeking redress, the merits of which will then be litigated (at further expense to the employer). Although these claims seem imminent, employees will find it difficult to hold an employer accountable for COVID-19-related illness or death.

    Routesetter Bundle from Chalk Cartel

     

    Proving It

    One of the big questions related to all this is: “How do you even prove when or where someone contracted COVID-19?”

    It is a good question without a good answer. Sick employees will struggle to prove that they contracted COVID-19 at the climbing gym because COVID-19 is a highly contagious virus and common in society, making it hard for an employee to prove that exposure to the disease was an inherent aspect of the employee’s job or that the disease was contracted while at the gym. Even with a confirmed COVID-19 diagnosis and anecdotal evidence of fellow employees contracting the disease, employees will face significant challenges to establishing causation because many details about COVID-19 remain unknown, especially its incubation period. Similarly, because COVID-19 is highly contagious, it may be challenging to prove that the disease was contracted during employment at the gym, as opposed to any other interaction outside the gym (or even while recreationally climbing at the gym when not working). Whether the issue is being litigated through the workers’ compensation system or court system, causation likely will be the biggest hurdle for employees. In many instances, it will be an insurmountable hurdle.

    Even if causation is an issue for an employee, it may not stop him or her from bringing a lawsuit or workers’ comp claim against the gym.

    Rockwerx

     

    Differences Between Lawsuits and Workers’ Comp Claims

    Claims against gyms alleging that an employee contracted COVID-19 at the gym will most likely go through the workers’ compensation system. In most states, workers’ compensation serves as the exclusive remedy for any work-related injuries and illnesses, which often is beneficial for the gym in terms of limiting exposure and litigation costs. In Florida, for instance, workers’ compensation is the sole remedy for occupational diseases—meaning that an employee is barred from filing a lawsuit—and an employee may only receive worker’s compensation if he or she shows that the risk of contracting the disease is inherent in his or her employment and that he or she contracted the disease at work. Each state also has damages caps that apply to workers’ compensation claims, which are much more limiting than the damages available to a plaintiff who files a negligence claim.

    Given the proliferation of workers’ compensation claims already being seen around the country, several state workers’ compensation boards have already considered and denied workers’ compensation claims based on contracting COVID-19 because of a lack of conclusive proof connecting the illness to the employment. Some states, like New York, however, have considered amending workers’ compensation statutes and regulations to make it easier for employees to prove that they contracted COVID-19 while at work. And in other states, like California, governors have issued executive orders easing the employees’ burden of proving that they contracted COVID-19 while at work and in the course of their employment. Notably, workers’ compensation is handled on a state level, and each state will have its own regulations and nuances.

    An Exception to the Rule

    Although workers’ compensation provides employees with the sole remedy for work-related injuries and illnesses, most states have an exception to this rule when the employer has deliberately harmed the employee or, in some states, acted grossly negligent. Because workers’ compensation claims usually cap damages based on an employee’s wages, many employees will attempt to avoid the workers’ compensation system under this exception and file a civil suit in court to request greater damages and hope to obtain a trial in front of a jury, which could be sympathetic toward a sick employee having to sue his or her former employer.

     

    For example, Walmart recently was named as a defendant in a wrongful death lawsuit brought by the family of a former employee who died of complications related to COVID-19. The lawsuit is attempting to get around the limitations of the workers’ compensation system—and damages caps—by alleging that Walmart engaged in intentional conduct by not protecting its employees. Walmart is expected to seek dismissal of the lawsuit by arguing that the issue should be resolved through the workers’ compensation system. Similar to Walmart, most gyms likely would prefer that workers’ COVID-19 claims proceed through the workers’ compensation system.

    The Importance of Intent

    Generally speaking, an employee can file a COVID-19 claim in court and circumvent the workers’ compensation system only if he or she proves that:

    1. The gym deliberately intended to injure the employee, or
    2. The gym engaged in conduct that the gym knew was virtually certain to result in injury or death to the employee, the employee was not aware of the risk because the danger was not apparent, and the gym deliberately concealed or misrepresented the danger so as to prevent the employee from exercising informed judgment about whether to perform the work.

    Under this standard, employees most likely cannot file a suit for contracting COVID-19 when returning to the gym because the employee will probably lack proof that the gym desired that the employee would contract COVID-19.

    Likewise, because many who contract COVID-19 exhibit no symptoms or recover without any significant medical complications, employees will face an uphill battle in proving that the gym was “virtually certain” that the employee would get injured or die from contracting the virus.

    Finally, the ubiquitous media coverage on COVID-19 will make it difficult to prove that the employee was unaware of the health risks associated with COVID-19.

    Steps a Gym Can Take

    Despite the challenges in holding gyms legally accountable for COVID-19 illnesses, many employee lawsuits have already been filed, and more are anticipated as employers reopen their businesses. Amid these uncertainties and anticipated lawsuits, gyms should stay informed on the constantly updated CDC and OSHA guidelines that apply to them, including, where applicable, guidelines for fitness centers.

    As of now, OSHA has issued many industry-specific reopening guidelines, but nothing yet for fitness centers or gyms (for reference, the guidelines for reopening retail establishments, found here, likely are the most applicable to gyms). Many states, however, have issued gym-specific guidelines for reopening within that state, and these guidelines cannot be ignored. Additionally, the Climbing Wall Association recently released a guide for climbing gyms’ reopenings.

    Following relevant guidelines will help gyms demonstrate that they took necessary steps to protect employees from the virus. Gyms also should document all of these practices, including the dates on which they were implemented, to help limit their potential liability from employees (and customers). Even in states that require an employee to prove gross negligence to bypass the workers’ compensation system (a lower standard), employees and their family will find it difficult to prove that gyms were negligent if they followed the applicable guidelines and implement reasonable safety measures.

     


    Note: This column offers general advice and is not intended to be used as direct legal counsel. Gym owners should consult a lawyer for their facility’s specific legal matters. Pill can be contacted directly here.

    CWA Restructuring Its Leadership Team

    CWAThe Climbing Wall Association (CWA) announced last month that it will start restructuring the organization, starting with the leadership team. Industry growth was cited as the primary reason for the changes, although the current crisis was also mentioned. Since the CWA formed in 2003, the number of climbing gyms in the U.S. has grown from less than 200 gyms to more than 500 at the end of 2019.

    “We have concluded that the CWA must also grow to better serve our community of members and stakeholders specifically and the indoor climbing industry generally,” reads the announcement on the CWA website. “The on-going coronavirus pandemic has only highlighted this conclusion more.”

    New Executive Director

    The news came in the form of a letter from the CWA Board of Directors, which aims to shift the trade association towards “a more traditional non-profit governance model.” Planned changes include replacing the President/CEO position with an Executive Director, effective immediately. Bill Zimmerman, the previous President/CEO, has departed from this position but may remain in a consultancy role. Zimmerman led the organization since 2005, establishing the CWA Summit and improving certification programs during that time.

    Routesetter Bundle from Chalk Cartel

     

    During the transition period, The Board of Directors named Garnet Moore the Interim Executive Director. Moore previously served as Director of Operations and has played a significant role for the CWA amidst the COVID-19 pandemic. The CWA has been providing resources and community calls for climbing gyms throughout the crisis; this month the CWA released a comprehensive guide for climbing gym reopenings. Given the challenges of hiring during this period, Moore will continue in this capacity “for the foreseeable future.”

    “With all the recent turmoil in our indoor climbing world, I have been privileged to be witnessing the incredible leadership and community in indoor gyms first hand,” Moore told Climbing Business Journal. “I hope that the CWA and I can deliver those same things for the owners and operators in our industry indefinitely.”

    Policy Position Created

    Another hire the Board of Directors plans to make is for a new Policy Director. The CWA has long advocated for climbing gyms in government affairs and educated its gym members on policy matters. This work has included distinguishing climbing gyms from amusement centers in the eyes of lawmakers and developing liability protection. More recently, the CWA drafted a petition for the federal government to add climbing gyms to the emergency stimulus funding. Now the goal is to devote more resources towards these issues, given “the industry’s ever-growing needs for regulatory work and standards development.”

    Homewall of the Week 6 – Colorful Backyard Virus-Build in MA

    This week’s CBJ Homewall of the Week is another little backyard woodie thrown together in North Reading, MA. The colorful paint job makes the most of owner Nate Furst’s six-foot tall budget-friendly wall. See past homewalls here.

    CBJ Homewall of the Week Nate Furst

    When did you build your wall?

    Beginning of April the day after my gym announced its shutdown and outdoor climbing was discouraged due to Covid-19.

    How long did it take you to build?

    So the wall took about 30min to bang together so actually not bad, and the supports took a little longer, maybe 1.5 hours. But the hang board took us about 3 hours, it’s made completely of scrap from under my porch. All and all 2 different days.

    TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel

    Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build?

    I spent about $120 on screws, 2x4s and plywood but I got a lot from salvage so I was able to keep the price down quite a bit.

    Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?

    I wanted something unique and colorful. But also needed something overhung to train power on.

    CBJ Homewall of the Week Nate Furst

    What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?

    The hang board, it was a nightmare outing. It’s strong and will hold you but it sure looks sketch.

    What would you do differently?

    Since I didn’t actually draw up a plan for this wall, it does have some flaws. So next time I would plan better and not have to use as much scrap wood.

    CBJ Homewall of the Week Nate Furst

    What is your favorite aspect?

    My favorite aspect I would say is the paint job, me and my girl friend did all sorts of different things with spray paint, paint markers, sharpies, and hand prints. And it came out really awesome.

    Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?

    You don’t have to have the biggest wall in the world, you can still have a blast on a 6 foot tall piece of garbage!!

    Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize pack like this (varied prizes each week):

    CBJ Homewall of the Week prize pack

    REI and Mountain Project End Multi-Year Partnership

    It was recently announced that popular online climbing guide platform Mountain Project and outdoor equipment retailer REI have ended their long-standing partnership. 

    Mountain Project was founded by Nick Wilder and Andy Laakmann and had been owned by REI for the past five years. The announcement, which was made by Wilder, included an anecdote that a new partnership will likely be made public “in the next few weeks.” 

    TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel

     

    “Mountain Project’s time with REI was very productive—[Mountain Project] was re-written from scratch and usage grew dramatically,” Wilder posted on Mountain Project’s message board forum. “Also, I want to say that I’ve never seen a large retail company do more for employees or nonprofits (I also admire Patagonia for the same reasons).  America would be a better place if more companies were more like REI.”

    Wilder noted specifically that he is now “back at the helm of Mountain Project.” His full forum post, titled “A Change for MP and REI,” can be read here.

    Butora’s Best Move: Rental Climbing Shoes That Last

    One of Butora's rental climbing shoes that last: the new Habara Markless DoubleToe.
    Butora’s new Habara Markless DoubleToe, with exceptional durability. All photos courtesy of Butora

    [Branded Content]

    We don’t need to tell you how popular climbing has become. With more than 500 gyms across the United States at the end of 2019 and an estimated 44.5 million climbers worldwide, our sport has grown significantly in the last few decades. As hundreds of climbing gyms reopen their doors soon, the need for high-performing, durable rental shoe products is greater than ever.

    In 2016 and 2017, Butora’s team went around the country asking gym owners what they wanted. Over and over again, we heard “a comfortable, high-performance rental shoe that lasts a long time.” We went back to the drawing board in 2018, developing two new shoes in 2019 with that same idea in mind, rejuvenating our 2020 line of rental options.

    The DoubleToe: Exceptional Durability

    From our markless rental shoe option to our most current innovation—the DoubleToe―Butora sets the bar for not only comfort and performance but also innovation. Owning our own factory―where we make the rubber, the complete shoe, everything―has allowed us to try out new products and see what works. The DoubleToe works. No plasticky, low-performing discomfort here. The DoubleToe performs, is comfortable, and it’s super durable.

    The new Habara Markless DoubleToe offers the same comfort, performance and odor-fighting properties as the original Habara Markless, but now there is an additional toe cap for exceptional durability.

    What New Climbers Care About Most

    Many of our competitors resort to using lower-cost and lower-quality rubber on their rental shoes. While this may save cost initially, it diminishes a new climber’s first experience and dramatically decreases stickiness, performance and comfort (what new climbers care about most).

    At Butora, we think it’s critical that visitors to your gym become long-term members, and a great way to increase the likelihood of membership is by providing a stellar experience. The first ‘experience’ when walking into a climbing gym often consists of putting on a pair of rental shoes. We feel strongly that the performance and comfort of those shoes are critical to retaining new climbers.

    Rental climbing shoes that last: a comparison from the DoubleToe to the Sparrow.

    In addition to the new Habara Markless DoubleToe, Butora offers:

    • Size 16 and 17 (you asked, we listened)
    • Increased sizing (sizes on the DoubleToe have been decreased to more closely match your customer’s street shoe size. Example: old Butora rental shoe size 10 is now size 9 in DoubleToe)
    • Truly custom rental shoe options
    • Our custom logos are made from forged rubber, not printed
    • Round toe options. A custom-rounded toe for more toebox space and even greater comfort
    • Vegan options available
    • To get straight to the details, visit us here to learn more

    If you take your gym business seriously and want the best experience for your customers, we are here to provide solutions. To learn more about the new Habara DoubleToe or any of our rental offerings, please visit us here.

    ―Team Butora

     


    This story was paid for and produced by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

    A Custodian of the Community: Behind the Closures with Jordan Mackay

    Behind the Closures…is a series that interviews people who are part of the climbing industry during the Coronavirus (COVID-19) crisis—and looks at how the situation is impacting gyms and companies around North America.

    For this installment, CBJ ventures north—virtually, of course—to talk with the founder of a popular gym in Canada about the pandemic, reopening protocols, and someday returning to introducing new people to the “amazing sport” of climbing.

    We went behind the closures with Jordan Mackay of Regina Climbing Centre, pictured here with his children Ella and Paul.
    Jordan Mackay with his children, Ella (left) and Paul (right). All photos courtesy of Jordan Mackay / Regina Climbing Centre

    Name: Jordan Mackay
    Title: Chief Climbing Officer, Regina Climbing Centre
    Location: Regina, Saskatchewan

    CBJ: Tell me about your background and the creation of Regina Climbing Centre.

    MACKAY: I started Climbing on Mount Yamnuska [in Alberta, Canada] in 1986 at the Rocky Mountain YMCA. I love being outdoors in the mountains, and I try to spend as much time there as possible in all seasons. I later started to climb indoors at Stronghold in Calgary when it opened, and I still really like climbing there. I moved away from Calgary to pursue education and start our family in 2001. Regina is in the middle of the Canadian prairies, a ten-hour drive from the nearest mountains. In the 19 years in Regina, I finished my degree in finance and went through a couple of careers—one in pharmaceutical sales and one in risk management. I sold two products that nobody wanted to buy, insurance and pharmaceuticals, and now I sell a product that everyone loves.

    Although successful, I really didn’t enjoy the work and I knew if I didn’t change I would not have my health. I grew up in a small business family and was always told that if you do what you love you’ll never work a day in your life. Finding that elusive opportunity proved harder than it seems. After a couple of years of searching, we went on a ski vacation to Kimberley [British Columbia] and went climbing at ARQ in Cranbrook, British Columbia. It is an amazing gym in a similar market size to Regina. I remember wondering to my wife Josie why nobody had built one in Regina…the rest is history.

    Jordan Mackay rock climbing for the first time.
    A passion is born on Mackay’s first day of climbing in 1986.

    CBJ: To a degree, all climbing gyms are in the same boat with this pandemic—forced closures, reopenings aligned with governmental regulations. But is there anything that makes Regina Climbing Centre’s situation unique?

    MACKAY: We started the gym two years ago. It is a family business. My wife, Josie Ricci Mackay, and I are the owners and our kids, Ella and Paul, work at the gym. The climbing community was quite small and, I believe, was struggling to keep up the energy. We really didn’t know how many climbers were in Regina but it wasn’t very many. It was a leap of faith that we would have people that wanted to climb. A group had built a small bouldering wall in a two-car garage—and I think you needed a secret handshake to climb. Seriously though, I connected with the ownership of the garage gym and they were more than excited to have a commercial gym.

    COVID puts a unique challenge on our community and membership as it is so young and developing. It might be easy for many to just have the sport disappear as they just started climbing and could easily go back to whatever else they were doing. I imagine in more mature communities the climbers will support the gym through thick and thin. We had just introduced many of our members to climbing, so to ask them to continue paying us for no service did not seem wise. We have frozen all memberships during the lockdown in an effort to bring everyone back when we reopen. We didn’t want to lose a single member. I feel like a custodian of the community and this crisis has only deepened this responsibility.

    OnSite

     

    CBJ: How has this impacted Regina Climbing Centre’s staff?

    MACKAY: Our doors have been closed since March 16th. We had to lay off our entire staff. This is the most horrible thing I think I have ever had to do. It broke my heart and I hope we can rehire them all.

    CBJ: There was a social media post from Regina—“stress relief COVID style.” What has been the most stressful part of this whole pandemic?

    MACKAY: When you own a business, it is a constant learning curve. I have learned a lot of lessons that I didn’t know I needed to learn. Having to let go your entire staff of people that you really like is brutal. I was a complete mess and the first few phone calls were ridiculous. Most of my staff are students and not having work will significantly impact their lives. I even had to lay off my own kids.

    Behind the closure at Regina Climbing Centre, reopening soon in Canada.
    Regina Climbing Centre hopes to reopen in accordance with government regulations and recommendations.

    CBJ: Your gym has not reopened yet. But at this point, what does reopening look like for Regina Climbing Centre, in terms of potential guidelines for members and staff?

    MACKAY: I am not really sure when—or what—the requirements will be if allowed to reopen. We are kind of grasping at whatever information is available in our province and other areas. We are trying to prepare for whatever regulation hits us, but also learning as much as we can so we can offer the safest environment possible. As information comes, we will be sharing climbing specific information with our regulators to make sure they understand climbing. Having said that, I don’t think we are out of the woods yet. I am hopeful but realistic that without a cure or vaccine nothing—with the exception of travel and a crash course in social distancing—has changed.

    I believe that the scientists, doctors and administrators in charge of COVID in Canada and Saskatchewan are amazing people and will give us prudent guidance. Nobody wants to get people sick, so we will do what we need to when we are allowed to do it. Our priority when we do reopen will be to reengage with and focus on our existing community. They need to feel safe to return. Once we have better control on COVID then hopefully we return to growth and introducing more people to this amazing sport.

    Share your story

    Are you leading a climbing gym or brand through this unprecedented period of gym closures? Or, do you work for a gym or company that is now closed and have a story that others could benefit from hearing? If so, please contact us and tell us about it.

    USA Climbing Cancels Several National Championships

    The logo of USA Climbing, which cancels several championship events.
    Logo of USA Climbing

    [UPDATE August 3, 2020: USA Climbing announced on July 30 the cancellation of the postponed 2020 Open Sport and Speed National Championships.]

    By John Burgman

    USA Climbing recently announced that it is cancelling the 2020 Youth Sport and Speed National Championships, which were originally scheduled to take place at Reach Climbing in Bridgeport, Pennsylvania, from July 9–12. In the announcement, USA Climbing also affirmed the cancellations of its 2020 Collegiate National Championships (originally scheduled to take place at Earth Treks in Englewood, Colorado) and its 2020 Paraclimbing National Championships (originally scheduled to take place at Mesa Rim in San Diego).

    Elevate Climbing Walls

     

    The reason cited for the cancellations was the “ongoing challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic.” A press release signed by both USA Climbing’s CEO, Marc Norman, and USA Climbing’s President of the Board of Directors, Patti Rube, stated: “While most states have begun to ease restrictions, it is clear that hosting these National Championship events, even with significant modifications, is simply not feasible given the current status of the pandemic and varying travel and safety guidelines across the country.”

    The announcement of cancellations left open the possibility of regional youth events taking place in mid-August. These events would not see youth competitors advancing to events beyond the regional circuit, and would not result in national team selection. However, these youth events would still “allow…youth competitors to reclaim the joy of competition climbing this year.”

    Of note is that USA Climbing did not include the 2020 Open Sport and Speed National Championships in the announced cancellations. That event was originally scheduled to take place in March at the Front South Main in Millcreek, Utah, but it remains postponed.

    USA Climbing also noted that it is still planning for the Olympic Games, which have been postponed until the summer of 2021. The American climbers who have qualified for the Olympics are Brooke Raboutou, Kyra Condie, Nathaniel Coleman and Colin Duffy.

    Homewall of the Week 5 – Future Olympians Need Woodies Too

    This week’s CBJ Homewall of the Week is a sweet little condo coronavirus build in Salt Lake City, Utah. Owner Kyra Condie really needed to stay strong, after all she’s qualified for the Olympics and hopefully will be representing Team USA in 2021. See past homewalls here.

    CBJ Homewall of Week: Kyra Condie

    How long did it take you to build?

    This wall actually only took maybe a total of 2.5 hours from cutting the wood, to bringing it to my condo (up the stairs, that was the hardest part), and attaching everything to the wall. It was easier that most walls because I was attaching it to a wall that was already angled!

    Not including holds and padding, how much did it cost you to build?

    It actually was free, I was able to get the wood from USA Climbing and they wanted to support me being able to train at home.

    TACO Skin Sander from Chalk Cartel

    Did anything in particular inspire your wall design?

    The wall was already there and angled! So it was really my only option. The room was also super small so I had to keep the wall small – it’s only 8ft X 8ft.

    What was the most difficult aspect of the design and build?

    Not gonna lie, this was maybe the simplest wall to possibly build.

    CBJ Homewall of Week: Kyra Condie

    What would you do differently?

    I’m actually really happy with how it came out, it ended up being far more functional than I thought it would. It’s actually sick, I’m definitely keeping it, even after quarantine.

    What is your favorite aspect?

    The wall is super steep and a totally flat angle with no changes, 55 degrees, which is an angle you don’t really find at most gyms. It’s a good supplement to normal gyms because it’s pretty different.

    CBJ Homewall of Week: Kyra Condie

    Can you tell me a little bit about how you’ve engaged your followers with your homewall? Sounds like a cool way to make climbing communal again during this time. 

    I had the idea to post a photo of my wall and have people set me some climbs! I was posting my favorite ones from each session and tagging the person who “set” it. People really seemed to enjoy it. I also was sending everyone a video back of me trying their boulder. I got in a bit over my head though, because I think I got over 400 climbs submitted.

    Any words of wisdom to aspiring homewallers?

    Do it! It’s really fun and totally worth it, especially right now. It feels really good to actually climb, even if the wall is small, rather than just hang board.

    Want us to consider your woodie for a future Homewall of the Week? Submit your homewall here to be considered. If yours is chosen you’ll win a prize pack like this (varied prizes each week):

    CBJ Homewall of the Week prizes